I recently purchased a Case 580C (unsure of year model due to the serial plate appearing to have rusted away but Im thinking its a newer model as all of the cylinders have single pistons in them and it is a power shuttle). We got it for $1000 and after checking all fluids and topping off the hydraulic oil and the shuttle oil was able to but a good battery in it and fire it up fold up and lock the backhoe up while it was pouring oil out of one of the boom cylinders and drive it onto a trailer and haul it home. I purchased a seal kit that had seals for all of the cylinders minus the two steering cylinders but I also ordered them as well. I repacked both boom cylinders and all four cylinders on the loader, replaced one of the long metal lines that runs down the loader frame and brazed up a pin hole in one of the curl cylinder lines. This got me to the point that I am at now which allowed me to at least dig a hole to bury two dead cows. There are still a few small leaks that need attention and most of those will be taken care of by rebuilding the remainder of the cylinders. Also the ranch hand at the ranch we bought it from said the motor had been rebuilt sometime in the last ten years and did not have very many hours on it. With all of that being said while digging the hole it seemed to lack digging power. If only using one function it seemed to be decent but not great and if you tried to move say the boom and the dipper together it would just stop unless it was a very small cut, It also was very slow to pick up a full bucket of wet material from the bottom of the hole. The bucket curl by it self seemed to have plenty of power. I have not had a chance to use the front end loader yet so I can not say how well it is working. I have clicked through almost every page in the backhoe forum and tried to read through every thread that appeared to have to do with 580C's and some that didn't. With that being said the first thing that I am going to check is the pressure on the discharge line form the pump as a starting point and go from there(found a thread from 2013 that explained how to do this). My question for now is were else do I need to check pressures at and what other things should I check to figure out were the issue may be. Just as a back ground/reason we bought the backhoe I work full time and run cows on the side with my dad an there have been plenty of times on the ranch were we really could have used a backhoe and when I came across this one it was to cheap to pass up. We have 500 acres and run about 120 head of cows and that keeps us busy enough so be patient with me as I do not get the chance to go work on the backhoe every day.
Go here and download the service manual if you need it. https://www.minnpar.com/manuals5.as...LS&SSSFName=CASE 580CK MODEL C SERVICE MANUAL
At that price your ahead of the game already,,!! Good luck with it..... and you gotta love being able to "work with my Dad"....
I don't know where you'd find the spec, but for cycle speed you typically get the backhoe up to working temperature, curl the backhoe all the way up, boom up, stick back, bucket curled all the way, then extend it all the way out, boom, stick and bucket extended straight out, then pull it all back in fully curled and time the total out and back in. That will give you a cycle speed to compare. A real rough test would be to do that cold and then after operating it for an hour, if it's significantly faster cold, then the pump is worn and leaking oil more as the oil gets thinner/warmer. Otherwise, it's typical to not be able to operate two functions without feathering them to get them both to operate a little, just the nature of the hydraulic system, crude.
Have you changed the hydraulic filter ?
Not yet I have all the filters on order.
Check the old one for debris, youtube has a couple methods if you're not familiar with the procedure, the vice method or the solvent method.
Well I got a chance to get a few more things knocked out this weekend. I got new battery cable ends soldered on and got both of the steering cylinders rebuilt. I also pulled the grill out and removed the lower cover on the front and noticed that the suction hose there appears to be seeping oil so I am sure it is sucking air while running so I am going to go ahead and replace all suction hoses and then follow the steps in the manual to flush the entire system. Did not have the proper fitting to adapt to test the main pump discharge pressure and will likely wait till I get the suction hoses replaced before testing now so that it will be as accurate as possible.
Be sure to use SAE 100R rated hose for those suction lines to prevent the lines from collapsing.
Will do, Thanks.
Sorry this was a double post.
Here is a picture of what I am working with. It had what looked like a frame for glass attached to the ROPS that was pretty well rotten and has been cut off of the ROPs. And the paint job they did to it was pretty well worthless and probably did more harm than good. Painted over all decals and appears that there was very little surface prep. Maybe one day it will get a proper coat of paint but thats years away at this point.
I see you have a wide bucket on it. The guy I got my 480c off of had a wide bucket like that and said it didn't dig very well at all. When he sold it to me he gave me the wide bucket and it had a narrow 12 inch bucket on it. It's a digging machine with that narrow bucket.
Low mileage, one owner creampuff..But looks like the guy got drunk and found a case of rattle cans..not even the right color yella for cripe sakes! Can't get nothin' good for $1000 bucks these days..
One thing is for sure and that is that it is not a cream puff. And yes the wrong color yellow is the thing that bothers the me the most. I can wrench on pretty much anything and I really dont mind painting but I really hate prep work.
Just like chrome don't get ya home, paint doesn't help ya dig...Fix all the mechanicals first then get another case of rattle cans of the right color and go to town..At this point you really can't screw up that paint job..
Paint will be the very last thing I worry about if it ever gets it. After repainting our 4430 John Deere I have had enough for quite some time.
Parade only tractor JDT ?
No it still carries its full weight on the ranch. Drag pasture, shred, make hay, disk you name it does it, just at a farther distance from the trees! We also have a 3020 that my grandpa bought new that I hope to redo eventually and a 6615. The 4430 actually gets used more now than before since its a lot more comfortable to run now that it has air ride seat and it actually has a cab interior kit.
Update/More Questions. So I finally got around to getting some more work done on the BH. I decided that that the most important thing to do was to get a few gauges working so I ordered a set of gauges for water temp, motor oil pressure, and volt meter. After getting this installed it was obvious the alt. was not charging so I swapped it out with a spare I had on the shelf and the belt was so worn and stretched that I did not have enough adjustment to take out all the slack so decided to go ahead and drain all the hydraulic fluid so that I could pull the pump and replace all the suction hoses all at the same time while I was in there replacing the belt also going to replace the rubber bushing on the coupler. The oil that came out looked pretty bad and obviously had water contamination so once everything is back together I am going to try and do the full purge of the lines and cylinders as described in the manual. I have also drained all of the old diesel out of the tank which was nearly full and have it pulled out to try and get most of the rust out of the tank. My plan is to dump some gravel or small bolts in the tank and add several gallons of apple cider vinegar and strap it in the bed of my truck and drive around a few days then rotate and repeat until all sides have had a chance to get cleaned up then rinse with diesel and reinstall. If any one has a better ideal I'm open to hear them. Now for my questions. On a power shuttle can the rear out put shaft seal be replaced on the machine or do you have to pull the rear bearing retainer housing to do it. Looks like it should be able to be done in place but figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. Also has anyone ever replaced the seals on the top side of the steering valve. I have not tore into this yet but it appears these seals are leaking as I have fluid coming out of the steering shaft jacket.
I have a case 580c and when I bought it the steering valve was leaking. I did some research and was able to by all the seals to rebuild it with. It’s fairly straight forward rebuild the biggest pain was taking the valve out and putting it back in.
Yep, the rear seal in the shuttle can be replaced w/o removing anything just like any other trans...Hey Mr580, are you still privy to those research parts numbers for the valve? If so hook a brother up or at least where ya got the parts
I actually happen to have a original case 580c service manual and in the back it has a parts catalog. So what i did was took down the part number i needed and then googled them. In the included pictures you’ll see I’ve circled the seals that I ordered to fix mine with.
Just thought maybe you could point the guy in the right direction...That is what this forum is all about, right?
Well over the last few weeks I have made some good progress. Replaced the alt., fan belt, all the sections of rubber suction hoses and any other rubber lines that I saw, removed cleaned and reinstalled the fuel tank, pulled the dash out fixed all the holes and cracks in it and installed new gauges and rewired everything, dash is currently just sitting there I have a little more wiring to do then will bolt it down. Also dropped the pan from the shuttle and cleaned the screen and installed a new oring on the screen, and replaced the out put shaft seal. The list is getting shorter but I it seems to keep getting longer at the same time. In the process of replacing the suction hoses I drained the hydraulic tanks so need to get it filled back up then going to try and follow the flush procedure to clear out as much of the old oil as I can. After all of that is done I will replace the seal on the steering valve (I talked to Dale at tractor stuff and he explained how to do it and sent me the seal kit). The only thing that should be left after that will be completely rebuilding the brakes.
I have the same problem with mine. I also paid a $1000.00 for mine with a bad motor. I changed the filter helped a little. I'm going to check the vent someone reduced it to a 1/8 pipe vent and it looks plugged up. I'll let you know if it works. I'll post if it does
Removing the vent helped a little but not much. I'm going to check the pressure next
Thanks for the heads up. I havent got anything done in the last week and half and not really sure when I will get back to working on it but really just need a good day of working on it so I can finish up a few things.
Is there supposed to be a welded in pin on the lever for the shuttle shift. Looking at mine it looks like one was welded in at one point but is completely gone now and I think that may be why it never realy had any spring to it. If some one could post a pic that would awesome.
Power shuttle or does it have a clutch ? It will be in the parts book. Can you post a picture of yours ?
Its a power shuttle. Is there supposed to be a pin across were the weld is
Is #4 what you are asking about ? Parts book link ----> https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...-only/cn/6E729144-8FBF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
Nice work. What products/procedure did you use to repair the dash? I was concerned it wasn't 100% fiberglass. Some molded products are hard to get a patch to stick too. Mine is in poor shape and the local wrecking yard dashes are worse. Steve
I used bondo products from auto zone. On the flat sides I layed parchment paer down on the floor then set the dash on that then worked from the inside. Sand everything first then apply some resin and either cloth or mat and repeat till built up enough. Then on the outside I used a little body filler were needed to smooth it off. Mine is far from perfect but much better. The resin does not stick to the parchment paper.
That is the shift handle in the image I posted. Did you open the link I posted and see that item #5 is the pin you are asking about ? Part #6 is the spring for the shift handle. I would replace the grip that is missing from your handle. Your hand will thank after using it quite a bit in one day.
I welded the holes shut and drilled it for a coiled spring pin. This is what the assembly looks like. You will need to buy the J-shaped spring. It holds the detent for neutral. Steve
Thanks that is exactly what I was thinking it should look like. I have the j spring but like I said someone either weld a pin in there at some point our it came from the factory like that but as of right now there is not a pin there as it has rotted away or wore away so there is nothing pushing against the j spring.
I think the factory welded a pin there, then it rots off over time. Sometimes the parts manual doesn't give enough info on how things go together. Especially like this part when you're not sure what it use to look like originally. Let me know if you need any other pictures of the 580C. I have hundreds of them so I didn't forget how things went back together. Steve
Thank you for your help.
Thanks I appreciate that I will let you know if there is something I need.
Got a new pin welded in the shuttle shift handle and also welded up and ground down a few areas that were showing quit a bit of wear then got a fresh coat of paint on all of it. May need to buy a new j spring though, I had to put mine in the vise and compress it some to make it work again but we will see how long it last.
Nice rehab !
Looks like another nose picker Tinkerer, nice work JDT make it a one and done repair..the paint on that column assy. is better than the rest of the machine...
Todays project is to weld in some new bushings. I know that this is not the correct way to do this but for the amount of use that this hoe will see this is what made the most since. I can always cut them out and weld new ones in. Part of the problem was the pin that they had in there was way to small.