Hey gang, I could use some advice. The pictures below show a hose I have a small leak in. If I'm not mistaken it comes from one cylinder (first Pic) of the boom swing and goes under the two cylinders to attach to the other (2nd Pic). Does that sound correct? I haven't laid down under it to make sure that is right but it looks like it. What should I expect if I start loosening those fittings? I assume I should leave all the hard plumbing attached. Do I need to move the boom one way or the other so I don't lose a huge amount of hydraulic fluid? Will it leak fluid while that hose is off? As I mentioned I've never messed with this sort of thing and after reading a few other threads about hoses I'm nervous for something unexpected! Thanks for any help!
Put everything on the ground and shut the machine off. Then cycle all the hyd. valves to relieve any pressure left in the lines. You may want to put a pan underneath to catch the oil from the hose. If you have to take the hose/line off to use as a template be sure to cap the ends on the machine. Also make sure who ever makes the new hose cleans it out after installing the fittings.
yes, typically the swing cylinders are connected because the work together, the base of one is connected to the rod end of the other. The O ring boss fitting adapter with the locknut stays on the cylinder, and you loosen the bigger hex fitting in that second picture. The first has a similar style adapter (without the 90) that stays on the cylinder.
Thanks guys, is there a good thing to cap off the ends with? Like would some plastic and a rubber back work or do I need something that'll really hold? Will there be any pressure other than the weight of the fluid?
Just go to where ever you are going to get your new hose and ask for some plastic hose caps. You'll need to know the size and female or male. Sometimes new hoses will come with plastic caps. You can start saving those and pretty soon you'll have an assortment of plastic caps to use on future changeouts. In a bind, you can use a ziplock bag and wire ties to close off an opening. Once the hose is loose and the initial oil has drained out, you won't have any more pressure or oil draining out. Reread Welder Dave's comments above about putting everything (loader, stabilizers, & backhoe) on the ground and actuating all levers with the engine off to relieve any pressure. After you have changed the hose out, you'll have a little air in the hyd system and the first time you use that function, it may act strange (slow to work or jumpy). Just keeping working the function until it starts acting normal.
Thanks JBRady! I'll likely go the bag route at first as it's going to take a little work for me to find a decent hose dealer. Also, as dumb as it sounds I'm glad you mentioned the stabilizers because I likely would have forgotten them, even after I bashed my head on one standing up after taking those pictures last night!
Line has been removed! I finally got the motivation and time to yank it and it was pretty easy, though messy and in the snow. Unfortunately, my hydraulic fluid is the color of caramel milk, and that's probably not good. Now I'm off to refine the thread about emptying and flushing out hydraulic lines, though that won't be happening today. Thanks again for your help!
Aighead you may find this useful for flushing your contaminated oil. HeavyEquipmentForums
When replacing the hoses put them snug but don't reef on them as tight as you can. You can damage the flare if too tight. Always use 2 wrenches so you don't twist or bend fittings or lines.
Thanks guys! I had to drive all over town to eventually find a joint that said they could make the hose with the specific metal tubing that is attached, at the low, low price of about 90 bucks for about 2 feet of hose. At least I've now found at least 3 different places to look next time. I'm hoping it goes well, and I'll take your advice welder dave!
Here's a dumb question... How the eff do you get the hydraulic resevior cap off? I've got a tool (looks like a "u" with a handle) that I think is needed to pull the cap but I can't figure it out. There's an arrow pointing to one side of the cap and at the bottom edge there is a notch cut into it, that I assume the arrow is pointing at but I don't really know what I'm supposed to do with it. I feel dumb for having to ask...
Don't know what machine you have? It's not dumb if you're not familiar with it. Better to ask than break something trying to get it off.
the cap you are explaining is the radior cap,,,,, push down on it when turning
Apparently that tool is used to turn the filler off by sliding it under the cap. HeavyEquipmentForums
Tinkerer, you got it! Unfortunately, I'm still confused because I tried sliding the tool under there but it only goes so far, maybe I'm not looking at it the right way. I didn't know if the slot in the cap had anything to do with anything. I've tried putting the tool in there and turning the cap while pressing up and down on it, then I messed with the slot but no go. I'll look and try again. I also think I looked in the manual but didn't see anything... Thanks gang!
I have a 555e and there is a small flat wrench that slides under the cap to get it off..it has 2 flat spots so just gotta move it around the cap to get it on. I did have to make my own in the tank hydro filter wrench to get it off but my machine came with a smaller one for the hydrolic tank cap.
I also just changed my hydro fluid in the cold..make sure you have at least 4 to 5 5 gallon buckets of fluid cause it will take them.
My guess is that the arrow on the cap is for alignment with the handle on the wrench.
Well, finally, I'm going to call my first hose change-out a success! 65 bucks plus purchase of a couple new crescent wrenches and I fired her up swung the boom a bunch, no noticeable leaks, and everything seems to be running OK. Next major task will be a hydraulic fluid change out to get the oil less milky... Thanls y'all for your assistance!
aighead, Just a heads up that you need to flush the entire hydraulic system or you are wasting good oil if you only change the reservoir contents. I can post a link to a thread that describes the procedure in detail if you want.
Thanks tinkerer! You posted a link above already!
Ohhhhhhh ! I forgot about it.
If you had so many hoses with no oil in them after replacement I'm intrigued as to why you didn't use that opportunity and drain the tank and the rest of the system at the same time..? Now you have the milky oil all the way through your nice new hoses.
Luckily, it was only 1 shorty hose Nige. Sadly, I didn't even think of that option but I wouldn't have been able to do it anyway due to the cold/wet weather and my empty wallet!