I am changing all fluids in a JD 310SG. Two of the drain plugs are boogered up. They are about inch and a half diameter plugs with what used to be a place in the center where you used a half inch drive to remove it. What is the best way to do this? Is it safe to weld a nut or bolt to it? Thanks, Donald
You mean the half inch drive has been boogered up so bad that it won't hold a breaker bar? You could weld a nut on it, worst that will happen is the o ring will melt, but you probably should replace the o ring anyway. The oil will boil a little but won't hurt anything. Or you could try to chisel out the center to take a 3/4" drive ratchet, use a sharp cape chisel, it won't take too long. Or you could weld up the boogers enough that it will hold a 1/2", then file or chisel to make it fit again.
I would think if the plugs are that damaged, I'm guessing they will be made of alloy, if that is correct, you won't be able to weld them. You will need to order new plugs, then use a sharp chisel to loosen them in the anti-clockwise direction.
I have used extractors before.
Whack the flat face of the drain plug squarely with a hammer a few blows, this helps disturb and distort the face of the drain plug which will help it pop loose with a little more ease with whatever method you use to grip it and turn it.
Sometimes on a drain plug that won't move a wack in the direction to loosen it with a chisel can help. Even better can be an air chisel to encourage it to move. Then of course you are installing a new one!
My first go to with stripped plugs is a couple firm whacks with a hammer (obviously considering the strength of what the plug is threaded in to). Then I'll try and drive an impact torx bit into what's left of the drive square. With any luck they come out relatively easy after the hammer blows. Then just replace the damaged plug with a new one.
You can lay a torch on them too, they will usually zip right out after dont even need to be hot enough to melt the o ring, Air chisel or hammer and chisel will vibrate them loose, and yes you could weld a nut on too I usually do that after the plug is out so you can use a real wrench next time
Some Gorilla did that on the planetary and rears of my machine too. Probably used an impact to put them in and out. All rounded. I had to use a hammer and chisel on a few and now replacing them all.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Internal-Pipe-Wrench-Set-16PL0140/304217608
I really don't want to buy 2 new ones at $50 each so I am going to try welding a large nut on them and see how that goes. Thanks everyone.
I used an air chisle on my hydraulic drain and it came right off...mine was stripped bad and i tried everything to get it off before i uses the chisel..
I use a dowel punch and punch all around the perimeter of the drain plug, to loosen the bond. Then reinstall with a little bit of never seize on the flat mating surfaces without a crazy amount of torque. These plugs have fine threads that apply plenty of compression. I know this won't help you with your stubborn removal, but it hasn't been mentioned that these plugs are metric ZF that should be removed with a 13mm square drive. This has worked well for my 410G.
Welcome to HEF, DB !
Hi Tinkerer and everyone else at HEF. I've been reading and learning here for many years. Today I had something to offer, so I joined up!
Thanks everyone. I welded as best I could nuts on two of the boogered up ones. They came out easily after that. The refill plug on the rear diff. still had a good place the use a 1/2 in. breaker bar but would not budge. Heated it up and with the help of a 3 ft. cheater it came out. Thanks again everyone.