I recently purchased a well used D5B that I hope to use on my property. I'm retired now and cleaning up a piece of property that is a bit overgrown and some things i just can't do with a farm tractor. I did operate D6B/C dozers as a teenager, but maintaining one is a learning curve for me. I used the dozer a little but not too much yet. These wet, cold winter days temper my enthusiasm to be on the dozer. Before I even had the dozer delivered I bought a service manual and parts manual on ebay. I learned that the parts manual doesn't include the hydraulic system, so I have parts manual for the hydraulic system ordered as of yesterday (even cat dealer couldn't find the number for the filter). At this point I'm researching what is needed to change all fluids and filters. I have fluids ordered and most of the filters, o-rings, etc. in hand (but not quite all). I am attaching a few pics and welcome any comments or cautions you experts may care to offer. A could of early questions: 1. Maintenance manual indicates to drain the flywheel housing and clean a screen when I change the powertrain oil. Can that be done with the belly plate installed? It doesn't look good to me. The belly pans could use a good cleaning anyway, but ugh...that won't be fun. 2. There is almost no wear on the track bushings, but the sprocket segments do not appear to have been changed when the tracks were renewed by the previous owner. Curious if you see it that way from my pics. Should I change the sprocket segments or just realize it's an old machine and go with what I have? Oops, I can only insert 4 files...
I'll try a few more pics... Hope I don't upset the moderator.
I'll stop with this...
It needs the belly guards (or one of them at least) lowered. You've pretty much answered your own question if the guards are full of cr@p anyway........ Just be careful lowering them, people have been seriously injured by those things coming down unsupported. Don't worry about the photos. The forum likes photos.
Thanks, Nige. Just wanted to know I wasn't missing something on the flywheel housing drain. The manual makes it sound like it's possible with the belly guard in place, but I can't even get a good look at what is there. Also, not sure my arm has enough joints to get in through the space on the sides. Anyway, they do need cleaning. Any thoughts on the undercarriage and my sprocket question?
I am the FNG here but the sprocket teeth look much sharper than my 2006 DG3 LGP which just had new undercarriage prior to me buying it. Someone that knows much more than me will tell you what they know.
The sprocket segments are obviously not new but we’ve seen far worse on here.
I am not an expert; just an owner/operator but that undercarriage doesn’t look bad to me. We have similar sprocket wear on our dozer (in conjunction with near new Berco chains). Not ideal obviously but have never had any skipping etc. If machine is not a production unit then may last a long time as is…. Rail height/ clearance between pin bosses & roller flanges looks pretty good. Maybe needs some armouring/plating on the push arms (a bit hard to tell from photos; some cracks showing?) Overall looks a pretty “tidy” machine, nice KW seat too!
Thanks for the feedback from everyone. I appreciate you taking time to comment. On the sprocket segments, I asked because it seems to me that if you put new tracks on you'd want to install new sprocket segments at the same time to get maximum life. With new tracks and worn sprockets, it seems to me the bushings would wear more quickly since the sprocket contact wouldn't be optimal. Now, this is not spoken from experience but rather just from my thinking on that topic. Experience might say I'm worried about nothing on this point.
Calling a D5B an antique makes me feel old.
RC that was my first thought also, then I remembered I just turned 64. Nice looking machine though.,
Me too. I remember like yesterday putzing around with my girlfriend after school in this car. That was 1976. All these years later as my wife we still run around in it from time to time. Pictures are current on my frame rack in the shop. All original 1968 Barracuda. 340 engine, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure Grip, and plum worn out. One of these days though..... Just across the main aisle still sets my 1957 Mack B-61 that was my "Welding Wagon" for several years. Bought this in 1979 and drove it daily till 1999 with plans to restore. Still sets as you see it here on the right: I get things done; just not very fast but I am in my 60's and grand daughter spoiling takes precedence to most other crap these days.
So, on the D5, whats with the oil pressure gauge stuck at 100? I hope it wasn’t running
Yes, the engine was running and warming up when the pics were taken. At slow idle the pressure goes down to something less. This is one of many questions that I have to look into on this machine. The gauge looks like a replacement to me. I'm thinking to get a new gauge and see what I get with it. What should the oil pressure be? The voltmeter is also faulty for some reason. It shows zero but I checked the voltage across the battery when running and it's 27.6 volts. Of course, the oil pressure and coolant temp are the critical ones.
Well, two things: It’s not a voltmeter, it has an ammeter and as long as its above zero it’s probably charging ok. When the engine first starts, the ammeter will show more and as the batteries become charged, it will drop to slightly above zero. Secondly, check the oil pressure with a ‘master’ gauge before you panic. If its all good, I would then change out the gauge for a genuine Cat gauge or a S/W gauge (they made the cat gauges back then)
56wrench, OK, thanks for clarifying. The ammeter does not move to the right of center. It only moves to the left when the glow plugs are activated. But, I am still convinced the alternator is working and charging the batteries. This will wait for more important items. The list is growing. Thanks for the advice on on oil pressure gauge. FYI, when idled down it drops to 85psi. I will check with another gauge. Is there action to take if the pressure is indeed too high? Maybe I cross that bridge after I confirm whether the pressure is accurate. BTW, I found the old gauge in the toolbox.
27.6V is 13.8 per 12V battery, so it's definitely charging. Maybe you'd want to see 14V, especially after running for an hour, but not a big deal. My theory is that ammeters were easier to build than voltmeters back in the day, for all modern purposes a voltmeter is more useful. If you leave the lights on for five minutes before you start it, I bet the ammeter moves to the right, at least if you rev it a little. If not, ignore the ammeter and check the voltage if you have any doubts.
That's a very nice little D5B and the sealed and lubricated undercarriage is virtually new - including the sprockets. Your guide as regards sprocket teeth is the thickness of the teeth at the tips of the teeth - and how far the bushing wear line on the teeth is up the face of the teeth. As the undercarriage wears, the bushing wear line move up the face of the sprocket teeth, until it reaches the tip of the teeth. As a general rule, when the bushing wear line is reaching the top of the face of the sprocket teeth, your undercarriage is reaching its allowable wear limits. You can run undercarriage until the tips wear off the sprocket teeth, and they just turn into bumps! But that is "running undercarriage to destruction" and your undercarriage is scrap at that point - and is performing badly as regards power loss due to poor alignments, severe track pitch wear, and sizeable potential to throw a track. Those sprocket teeth are plenty thick, and you should have no concerns over the condition of any part of your undercarriage. However, part of your daily maintenance needs to include a comprehensive check for loose bolts and nuts in the undercarriage. In particular, check the sprocket segment retaining bolts regularly for looseness, as if these are run loose, the bolt holes wallow out and you will have major repair work fixing the damage. You can easily see loose bolt movement as marks appear around the bolt heads or nuts.
I can speak from experience - REMOVE THE BELLY PANS!! ; ) Pain in the rear, but well worth the effort to remove all the fire hazards and look at bottom of motor/flywheel/trans/etc...and for god sakes...take/post pics and ask questions!!! And good on you for getting the manuals, I'm still playing catch-up (need the 800 page under carriage manual)... a BIG "wish I had done" was to drive the machine up on 2-3 stacked 2x10's (or more!)...man that little bit of clearance really helps a bunch (especially since I was in soft(ish) gravel)...in addition, lift your blade half way and support with blocks/stand to allow you to pull/push pans out the front area. Keep searched/reading here on HEF; absolute NOVELS of info here to help out. Start with fuel(!)...Look in your fuel tank (make sure you can see bottom!), open/drain lower fuel bleed...remove/change primary/secondary fuel filters...move on to oil/filter...finals...etc, etc, etc I "think" the D5B is a dry clutch/brake area...if so, pull the rear 3"x5" flat plates off the rear of the machine and look into the dry-clutch/brake compartments to make sure its not full of water/oil (and/or dirt)...may be worth removing the lower plugs to make sure they come out (or are even there!?!?) Cool ole looking machine!! Exciting to see what you do with it...
It is so very cool to have advice from experienced people on a forum like this. Thanks to OzDozer and D5Dan. I removed the rear belly pan today and pulled it out from the rear. I was only supported in 5/8" plywood and barely had clearance to get it out. So much more space out the front. I plan to pull the front pan out the forward direction and reinstall both from the front. The rear pan had lots of dirt and wood in it, but little to no oil. I know there are oil seeps on the engine so I fully expect the front plan to have oil soaked contents. Reinstallation could be a challenge. We'll see. I'm out of town for a few days, so this will take a pause. My plan is to remove both pans and them move the dozer out of my shop to change fluids. With the messy work complete, then I'll bring it back onto a flat slab to reinstall the belly pans. Wish me luck.
Costnsg - There's useful advice and information in the link below, as regards belly pan removal/installation. Cat 955H belly pan installation. Greetings, I took a big leap and bought a Catt 955H track loader with no heavy equipment experience whatsoever. I figured I would either have a fun farm loader or a horrible money pit. The so-called belly pan was not installed. It probably weighs 200 pounds. I searched for advice on how to... HeavyEquipmentForums
Took the belly pans off today and cleaned them both out. I used the floor jack on the rear pan and then used the motorcycle jack on the front pan. I took the rear pan out the rear of the dozer and that was not the best option due to clearance limitations. I took the front pan out in the forward direction. I plan to reinstall them both from the front of the dozer. Motorcycle jack is quite stable, but it is also limited because the two rails remain horizontal regardless of the profile of the lifted object. For example, if the pan is on the jack and the rear touches before the front, you're stuck. The floor jack will keep lifting in that scenario, but the motorcycle jack will not. I will have to be very careful on the reinstallation. I'm thinking about using a couple of straps as a secondary, safety measure, while still lifting with the floor jack. Bolting was a mixed lot. The rear pan had bolts installed from the top with washers and nut on the bottom. A couple of the bolts are easy to take out and they have another bolt welded across the head of the bolt to prevent it from turning. The front pan bolts look more conventional with bolt heads and washers visible from the bottom as they thread in from below. That reinstallation will be a few days from now since I'll be doing something else for a few days, and I'm still collecting all the oil and filters and o-rings, etc. I plan to move the dozer out of my shop for that messy work with all the fluids and bring it back in to reinstall the pans. Found that the bolt/valve affair on the engine oil plan is leaking. Something else that needs fixing... Oh, almost forgot, the rear pan must have originally had a removable piece for accessing the flywheel housing drain. It's hard to see from the bottom side but from the top (inside) after cleaning you can clearly see a plate has been welded in place. With that original plate removed it would have been possible to remove the drain plug without removing the belly pan. I plan to leave it as is. If you folks cringe at the length of this note, let me know. I can make it much shorter if that's preferable.
You did just fine. Getting belly guards off and back on, is probably the least favorite job of any mechanic. It's good you got them off, they're well overdue for a cleanout. Belly guards full of trash are a fire hazard, they reduce heat dissipation from the working components, and they hold moisture, which facilitates corrosion. Running the tractor up on some lengths of heavy timber (old railroad ties are good) makes for improved clearance under the tractor.
Nice pics/job! That's the work no one wants to do, so it rarely gets done (often enough)... The pan bolts you described is what I found on my machine, along with the access hole/plate situation (only mine doesn't have the plate welded up, yet!). I believe you have one more nose pan up front, its the easiest of the three and it too will hold a bunch of crap...note the front plate is notched for bolts, makes the install easier... I used an ATV lift on top of plywood when lowering my pans, worked great...going back in I used the ATV jack and a come-a-long hooked track to track to pull the pan up on (well combo of both)...after years of abuse they didn't just "go right on"...but with the combo (and a BFH) they WILL go!! While you have access, double check your bevel gear/trans suction line...mine had a stick/branch wedged between the left-side frame rail and the back side of the rubber coupler (which broke a clamp); it was leaking and likely sucking air, so make sure you rule that "good time" out before you put the pans back up. The pic I've attached of the suction line is the current "patch job" I'm running at the moment...the replacement hose/clamps are in line to go on...and since your machine looks much less abused than mine, I bet you'll be in fine shape. While you're tickling the belly of the beast, take a peek at your brake adjuster bolts to make sure they're there(!) and/or not busted off (but I'm sure you're pre-buy caught that, unlike my look-over ; ))...again pull of the 3"x5" plates on the rear to look in on your steering clutches/brakes (along with making sure the lower drain plug will play nice). Don't worry about typing details/info...I'm notorious for writing too much(!)..."they" read what they need/want...and hopefully the details/color of the novel will help any incoming newbie!! Oh, the other fun reality...as you post pictures of one item...it will be brought to your attention that in the background you have another items to fix/update/adjust...it's like whack-a-mole with these things!!! Remember the yellow-paint-addiction is real; welcome to the ward!!!
The engine oil pressure gauge must be faulty as NO CAT engine runs at 100 psi, the 3306 is happy with 55 to 65 psi at high idle, on low idle you want to be seeing 30+, the Amp gauge should show a 30 amp drop when using the heater plugs on a P.C. engine.
I think I see welded on lift eyes on your front pan, and your tractor has hood sweeps. Where your sweep crossbar is is just about the pick point if you were to use 2 come alongs to raise your belly pan into place. Pan on ground, drive forward over it, hook the come alongs up, pull it up in place. Easy peasy and safe.
Overall the machine looks like a runner to me, I've had several dozers over the years and when an undercarriage looked like yours I was a happy camper. I think you got a good one.
The oil pressure gauge is a run of the mill aftermarket automotive gauge. Cat wants a ridiculous price for the gauge and an extra 3 or $4 just for the rubber ring that goes around it. I got an IPD gauge for a 1/3rd the price but it goes to max. as well. I'm more worried if it doesn't show anything. I know the oil pressure is in the right range from the original gauge. I changed it because the gauge was leaking externally and oil was running down the back of the firewall. It was also leaking past the front glass that made it really cloudy to see.
This gauge of mine is FUBAR, I think. It pegs out on top end when anything above slow idle, and drops to 85psi on slow idle. But you never need worry about low oil pressure because it still had 35psi when it's not even running! I will replace it.
D5Dan, I'm worried I may never get the belly pans back on. I keep finding more things to worry me. Can you believe someone at some point tried to weld the rear belly pan to the frame? I found a couple of places where I have questionable looking hoses with clamps and some evidence of leaks. I can't tell if this is the same place you mentioned, however. The first pic is just inside frame on left side. Last pic is just inside right side of frame. 2nd and third pics just show seeping leaks and are forward of the oil filter on left side. I haven't had a chance to follow up on your other suggestions yet.
More common than you might think if there are broken bolts and someone decides to go the easy way and fix up the guard with the welder rather than lowering it and extracting the broken pieces like any normal person would do. It's called idleness......... From the photos it looks as though it would benefit from a good clean under there. Also replace all those suction hoses & clamps. The new style of constant torque hose clamps works far better than those Jubilee-style ones.
The T-bolt clamps are way better. I had one with a slight leak on the grader but it was bottomed and wouldn't tighten anymore. I loosened it and the leak got worse. The clamp was too buggered up and I couldn't reuse it so I took it right off. Thankfully a standard hose clamp was enough to stop the dripping. I went to a farm store and got a new T-bolt clamp. It had about about 4 more threads on it than the old clamp which allowed it to tighten just a little more and stop the leak. Regular hose clamps will twist and get ruined if you try to tighten too much. T-bolt clamps can be torqued quite a bit more and are much easier to use with a socket.
Just to be clear. These are what we are talking about. When installed in pairs it is recommended that they should be installed as shown in the 2nd photo.
Which applications need the type with springs? and which applications do you not want the springs?
I wonder what the springs are for too, maybe to compensate for temperature changes of the hose due to increased temp. of the fluid?
I wondered as well, noticed that the intercooler boots on our Cat C12 have the clamps as pictured above but with the springs. Applications with heating/cooling cycles?
No. It's to more evenly distribute the clamping force around the complete circumference of the hose.
I'd go with the ones with springs on anything containing liquid and the other type for air intake lines and the like. Whichever design of clamp the OP went with is surely going to be an improvement over what is on his tractor right now.
I think I've only ever the seen the spring type on coolant hoses or air intake hoses. Have seen several without springs on hyd. suction lines though. Maybe there's some brochures or technical specs. for the different types??
Costnsg - just remember that ole girl was a production workhorse in the day; when on the jobs the boys had to do what it took to keep her going - I'm sure there are a 100 things on her that someone said "I'll do this for now and then come back and fix it right" (like welding the plate). You are currently in the phase of tracking that stuff down, along with the other maintenance tasks at hand. Keep a list, just right now you're going to be finding/learning a bunch of "that's not right", or "that POS is gonna fail/break" and leave you stuck and/or costing you much more $$$ BTW - I don't think any of your pictures are of the trans/bevel gear suction line. On my machine the trans/bevel gear suction line coupling would be down under your left foot (if not slightly further back)...I think you may be showing the union for the hydraulic pump/system (pic 1)? The small line on the right-hand side I think is a fuel line union/repair (pic 4)?? And the hard line in front of your oil filters (pic 2 and 3) I believe is for your trans oil cooler (should just be an o-ring under that hardline and/or just loose). I know we're getting some cold nasty weather at the moment, but you need to find a way to pressure wash your machine - definitely another PITA job but it will really set you up to see bolts/hardware/leaks a lot better - not to mention once you're up and running new leaks will be easier to spot. The other huge benefit is so you don't contaminate various systems as you remove hoses, filters, etc. I A$$ume you have your engine side covers off and now with the belly pans off - well - like taking the prom dress off - aint hiding any funky nip-ples now ; ). Don't be like my father inlaw and use the pressure washer in flip-flops and then go over the top of his foot (geez man)!?!? And just as important- don't blast the snot outta stuff just cause you can - work from the top of the engine/motor and wash all the crap down/out ...you'll get 80% of the junk - 90% if you stand on your head and really go after it...eitherway makes working on the machine MUCH nicer - PLUS we get better photos of the troubles you're battling!! Junk those clamps - follow what Nige is recommending...or at a minimum install new (cheap) worm clamps to slow/stop any leaks so you can run/test the machine...then come back and fix it right ; ) Another check item I remember a HEF member (I think TCTractor) pointing out to me - where the leaf springs go under the engine, check the mount for cracks...now having said that - I'm NOT sure a D5 and a D5B will be the same (I think you have a 3306 and possibly a different mount) - hopefully TC/others can confirm what you have under there - hopefully that was something corrected on the B model vs my antique (there's that word again!?). Either way if she's cracked you have WAYYYY bigger issues than a few crappy/leaky hose clamps. Remember: - make a list - Clean/pressure wash all you can (you'll need a few "outings"!) - Check motor mount/leaf springs - clean/inspect your fuel system (Look in fuel tank, open low fuel tank drain to get water/gunk out) - remove/clean primary fuel filter - remove/replace secondary fuel filter (and o-ring) - Remove/inspect air filters (great mouse house) - hoses/clamps/etc - Engine oil/filter - etc etc etc Just like whack a mole - you'll knock one down and two/three new ones pop up And just think - you haven't even taking the gaurds off your track frames yet!!! Sorry, didn't mean to skip ahead in the story.
Thinking I should have spent twice as much and bought something half as old. Oh well. I very much appreciate all the feedback. With the belly pans removed, I planned to move tractor outside shop for the messy business of changing fluids and filters. Right now my parking areas are covered in snow, though. Good news is I'm retired and I don't have to move quick on this work. I'm adding a couple of additional pics. I think this connection will need to be removed to get at that hose clamp that looks the worst. There is oil in this area as well, but I can't tell for sure where the source. From that stack of flat washers, I conclude someone before me had a bolt that was too long. So much shoddy work I am finding. Oh, I saw a comment about the leaf springs. I don't have any, apparently. There is a rigid member where I would normally expect to see the leaf springs. No idea why that is.
There is an O-Ring behind that 2-bolt flange but from the photo it appears as though the oil is coming from above that joint. Guaranteed that if you remove the pipe then you will find the O-Ring flat/hard and have to replace it anyway if you don't want it to leak afterwards..... Do you have a Parts Manual yet.? You're probably going to need one. The Serial Number on your first post is somewhat hard to read but effectively there are two options for 25X-prefix machines: - For Serial Numbers up to & including 25X1814 - SEBP1154. For Serial Numbers from 25X1815-Up - SEBP1279. Both the above are available new starting from $110, so don't go paying over the odds for something dog-eared & worn off eBay.........
Attaching a pic to explain what I meant above about not having leaf springs. The ride is a little harsh.
Nige, I ordered a service manual and a parts manual before i even took delivery on the tractor. I am using both A LOT. I found the number on the rear of the frame and was able to verify the serial number as I too had trouble reading the tag. One thing I did not anticipate was needing a separate parts manual for the hydraulic system. There is some information in the tractor service manual and it considers the hydraulics a separate "system". There is nothing in the tractor parts manual about the hydraulics. I was just looking for a new filter/seals and even the parts desk at Caterpillar dealer couldn't help me without additional info beyond tractor serial number. So, I learned the hydraulic system has it's own serial number and it is that serial number that allows you to locate a parts manual. With this additional parts manual you can get Cat part numbers and the same Cat dealer had everything I needed in stock.
The hydraulic system will have its own separate Serial Number as well as needing its own separate Parts Manual. Look on the hydraulic tank for a data plate. I would imagine that it will be a 143 or a 153 of some flavour or other.
Yes, sir. I figured that out and have the manual. Parts I needed for that system arrived today.
Great news on the equalizer bar (vs leaf springs) - see you're already way ahead with that "new" model... I mean antique!! I figured you guys had snow on the ground, so cleaning/working outside has new challenges with all that in play (been there, done that!). I picked up a hydraulic parts book this summer (my system is the 153) and it is a world of help; especially since it covers the blade, rams, etc...and once you have a part number to work with, then you can play the superseded parts number game... Good luck - look forward to see how you make out, and what you do with it!
I'm making slow but steady progress. The snow is gone as of today since it warmed up and has been raining all day and expected to continue for most of this week. So...I worked inside for part of the day. I installed a new oil pressure gauge, a new temp gauge, and a new ammeter. Pics below. The pic was taken with water temp stabilized (parked and running), but I'm sure the engine oil was not yet at operating temp. I also started prepping for the power wash, which will precede the fluid changes. I included a pic of the area below the fuel tank/seat after removing the access covers. The pile of wood and sticks behind the dozer came from that cavity. I think I'll be able to wash out what remains. I also plan to remove the side covers/screens which is a bit of work but will provide better access for the power wash. By the way, all the belly pans are off now (3 total) and also the plate from underneath the radiator. I drilled out a broken bolt and waiting on a thread tap to clean the threads. I did a good job (this time) keeping the drill centered and threads should be good. The last pic is taken of the right side of the tractor at the rear. There are 2 unused hydraulic hose connections that I assume are there for a ripper that I do not have. One of these hoses appears to have a small seeping leak. The top hose is about 10" and the lower hose about 18". I have a couple of questions if someone happens to know... 1. What are the requirements or recommendations for proper antifreeze to use in this machine? What spilled during my gauge replacement was green in color. 2. The two hydraulic hoses for the ripper have a 4 bolt connection to the rigid tubing. In the pic the side access door is open. One connector is outside the enclosure and one is inside. Can I get a plug for the connector and just eliminate the short hose segments? I don't expect to ever use them. If yes, how is the plug or blank described? I'm not familiar with these types of connectors. Thanks all! Shawn
Yes you can. The "half clamps" should have a Part Number stamped into them. Get that Part Number and the Part Number of the disc (it uses the same P/N of O-ring as the end of the hydraulic hose) that is used to blank off one of those connections can be found.
D5Dan, Is there some advantage for the equalizer bar versus leaf springs? I am accustomed to seeing springs, not a rigid bar. I am also now the proud owner of the parts book for the blade. I can now add it to the parts manual for the tractor and the parts book for the hydraulic system. Are there any others I'm missing that I will find out about when I need a part not in either of my 3 books? It's a learning experience for me! Shawn
Thanks, Nige. I'll approach is from that angle and see what I can find.
Look on this page for blanking plates for the four bolt flanges: Four-Bolt Flanges SAE 518 4-bolt flange fittings are available in standard pressure (Code 61, 3000 psi) and high pressure (Code 62, 6000 psi). The port is an unthreaded hole surrounded by four bolt holes in a rectangular pattern. www.discounthydraulichose.com
Thank you! Do you know if the cat fittings are code 61 or code 62? Looks like the difference is pressure rating and probably 62 is more "beefy". Also, do I need the blank with the o-ring groove or without? If the mating side on the tractor has o-ring groove, then the blank probably doesn't need it. Correct? I'm not trying to create work for you, so I will do some more research myself. If I look up the part as a cat part, I expect I will learn what I need to know.
Costnsg- great work on the gauges; look (and act) correct. Bravo on getting the camp fire materials out of your machine; accidents happen, definitely don’t need to fuel them. If time (and patience!) allows, remove seat so you can wash top of bevel gear area as ur getting after the rest of rig…access (and cleaner/soap) will be key Regarding the leave springs vs equalizer bar- I’ll need the experienced HEF members help us answer that question…I just know the E-bar to be a newer style/system; likely means “better”? I have read a couple bushing/pin rebuild write-ups, but unfortunately I have no experience to share. You may want to consider keeping the rear hydraulic connectors if a drag plow were in the cards (some cool YouTubes on guys pulling field/crop plows that “flip” when at end of row). Never know, might be a resale item that catches the next owners eye!! Nice progress (and pics)! PS- is your fuel tank missing the low-point drain? Tough to tell, but I see a plug (with square head) in one of ur pics
You need a blank with an O-Ring groove. The O-Ring on the end of the hose is exactly the same P/N as the one that goes in the blank.
This page shows the sealing rings you would require. I don't know what size hoses you have so cannot drill down exact as to sizes needed. 610 | Buna N O-Ring for Code (61/62) Four Bolt Flange: DiscountHydraulicHose.com Check out our large selection of Buna and Viton O-Rings for many threads, including O-Ring Boss, O-Ring Face Seal, and Code 61/62 Flanges. Many sizes ready to ship same day. www.discounthydraulichose.com
Cat haven't used a mainspring since the early 1960's, the rigid equalizer bar which mounts on big rubber pads on the track frame was the standard design for the flat-track tractors until the high-track design arrived. The mainspring design was prone to breaking leaves, as all leaf springs do, after many years and much bouncing over obstructions such as rocks and logs. The equalizer bar provides a more reliable support mechanism for the tractor frame and drivetrain - however, they can also develop cracks, too - especially along the weld lines. It's important to check the equalizer bar for cracking regularly. They can also crack ACROSS the bar. And it is VERY important that you keep the rubber support blocks that sit in the track frame in good shape, and keep the area around the rubber support blocks free of dirt build-up, so they can flex as designed. Also, the equalizer bar sits on a support pad that fits around the idler yoke pushrod, and this support pad needs an occasional build up with hardfacing, leaving a slightly rounded top surface that the equalizer bar sits on. If you let major wear develop on that support pad, it can thin out badly and develop a downwards bend, and this can allow the support pad (and equalizer bar) to hit the idler yoke pushrod, and this then bends the pushrod.
Also, check the crossmember/saddle that joins the frame rails together and the areas where there are any welds for cracking. If the front end has been repeatedly slammed down driving over stuff with the blade up, it creates a lot of extra stress on the hard bar and all related components
You need one of these. The "Head Size" listed on the table below will be exactly the same diameter as the flange on the end of the hose that is installed there now.
I didn't see the antifreeze question addressed. If it was mine, here, I'd put the old stuff right back in with a little extra SCA, then put a barrel under your eaves, and after the weather warms up, and you're sure everything is working correctly, run it on rain water a couple hours working, drain hot into a white bucket, and repeat until you don't get any more sediment in the white bucket when it settles. Then fill with ELC, or SCA type if you prefer.
Your observation is correct. The only connection (not plugged) is the fuel supply line to the engine. Apparently, a lot of mods and short cuts have been applied by previous owner(s).
Delmer, Thank you for your feedback. I had to look up the acronyms, but I think I figured it out. SCA = Supplemental coolant additive ELC = Extended life coolant Is there a particular brand you'd recommend? On the ELC, are you referring to Cat brand or any particular one? I've never used either unless my newer tractors have it from the mfg.
Removed side screens and side plates today in preparation for power washing. The way it's been raining I should have just parked it outside (kidding). Attaching pics and another discovery. I have oil running down the right side engine block. It appears to be from the valve cover, I think. Will confirm with cleaning. It's running around the exhaust manifold and creating some smoke. Can't believe I didn't notice the smoke before. Pulling the valve cover doesn't look like too bad a job, but open to any suggestions or cautions others may have. Note also the high pressure hose from the hydraulic pump in the second pic. I'm sure it didn't start life looking too short like it does. Another previous owner shortcut? Based on weather forecast, it will be next week before I move outside for cleaning. My work list continues to grow...
Yes, cat ELC, or JD coolgaurd II, or fleetgaurd ES complete OAT, or Peak final charge would be ELC. Fleetgaurd ES complete also comes in an SCA, or Peak fleet charge, or an antifreeze that meets the spec with SCA added separately. SCA comes in at least two types, fleetgaurd calls them DCA2 (everybody elses) and DCA4 (theirs).
First pic below shows the hydraulic pump with a lot of crud around it from fluid leakage. I won't know where the leak is until I get it cleaned up. I'm hoping just an o-ring. We'll see. As mentioned in my previous post, the high pressure hose looks to have been shortened to me. These shortcuts bug me. Last two pics show a line that is connected on both ends to the hydraulic tank. This one has me puzzled. The parts manual for the hydraulic system, I believe, shows a line from each of these two nozzles that each route to the valves for the ripper (no ripper installed, but valves still there). I'm wondering if someone made modifications to create what I see here. In any case, it's leaking and I'm not sure what I will do with this one yet. Hoping the cleanup will add some clarity.
Thanks, Delmer. That gives me more to work with and I appreciate your time and advice.
The big hose doesn't look in the best shape. Looks like there's a bubble just stove the clamp. Speaking of clamps t-bolt clamps would be much better and the existing clamps could be what is causing the leak.
Thanks, Nige, for taking extra time to help me with the details. With my recent post above, i'm not even sure whether I have hydraulic pressure going to the ripper valves. I'm going to take a closer look tomorrow. At least I'm reaching a point where I can see more. I plan to next remove the floor plates and the hood, and that will expose almost everything for cleaning and inspection (except internal, of course).
If you change the valve cover gasket, make sure the new one is thick enough, otherwise the outer lip of the valve cover will be tightened down against the head and will likely leak. Some aftermarket gaskets were too thin to seal properly. I ran into that once with an IPD valve cover gasket
Costnsg - should be brought to your attention with the radiator fan blowing thru the radiator (unless someone has changed blades/positions to reverse it)...and the amount of oil dripping (and age) I recommend you take a close look at your radiator since oil/dust-dirt make for a great coating on the radiator core. Mine was so bad (and still needs some care) I found removing the front grill the best way to get up close and clean/brush/rinse/repeat. As you likely know/suspect the radiator core is big bucks so no pressure washer, just use regular hose and rise gently. One (possible) piece of good news I see in your photos - I spot shinny bolts on your inner air cleaner - maybe previous crew was changing filters/etc! And remember to cut open any filter you remove to see what's inside the element...likely will be just oil...but should still look close. Doing great - enjoying the progress/updates.
Thanks D5Dan. I looked at the radiator and it's not too bad. Some washing from the front will help it though. I am power washing today, but priority is to get the oil and crud off so I can work on fixing leaks. I plan to do this by system so I can work on the leaks while I have each system drained. I have multiple leaks each on engine oil, drive train oil, and hydraulic oil. None of these are so serious that you couldn't run the tractor, which is probably why they haven't been addressed by the previous owner. I also have a seep on the outboard side of the right final drive which will not see much love for a while. The good news...no coolant leaks that I have seen.
I replaced the valve cover gasket today and that wasn't too bad a job. I went with a Caterpillar gasket which has been updated from the old fiber gasket that I had in mine. The new one is made of a black, rubber looking material with steel washers embedded at the bolt holes. The torque values were almost doubled over the original ones. I think this works because the embedded steel washers limit gasket crush. The worst part of this job was cleaning around the top of the head where the water blast didn't clean well enough and cleaning the old gasket off the head without getting a lot of trash down into the head. I'm satisfied that I did that fairly well and the shop vac was helpful. The old gasket was stuck really well, I might add. In the process of doing the work, I noticed one of my injectors is leaking a little. I tried loosening and retightening, but not sure until i run it whether that will help. Of course it's the worse one to access, being right next to the outlet on the exhaust manifold. One last point that I found interesting. Some of the existing bolts holding the valve cover were not tight at all and one was not threaded in fully. I checked the hole on the one that wasn't threaded in and found an obstruction. I tried to blow it out with an air nozzle and pull it out with a magnet, but neither worked. Hole was too small for needle nose pliers, but a pair of tweezers got it out. The obstruction turned out to be about a 30 degree portion of a broken lock washer. I have to pull off the dozer work for a day or two to work on an underground water leak, compliments of our recent freezing weather.
It's been a while since I've updated this post, so I'll give an update and later open new threads on a couple of lingering issues where I could use some expert input. This is a list of completed work: Removed and cleaned all belly plans, including the small front one and the small one under radiator Ground all weld metal from bottom of tractor frame where previous owner welded rear belly plan Removed hood, all side shields, floor plates for access Removed sheet metal shields on undercarriage Power washed everything I could see Changed valve cover gasket Resolved leaking injector line Replaced wire harness for glow plugs (work much better now) Replaced oil pressure gauge, ammeter, coolant temp gauge, torque converter temp gauge Replaced hoses on two power train lines (still have a leak at the pump - damn) Changed power train fluid including new filter, cleaning of screen and magnets, new seals Changed engine oil and filter Changed hydraulic oil and filters Changed fuel filter Replaced hydraulic pump discharge lines and seals at pump, also hoses on suction line Replaced hydraulic recirculation line (ripper valve bypass) Replaced grease tubing to crossbar center pin Replaced seals/gaskets on fuel tank cap and hydraulic tank cap Drilled out several broken bolts in tractor frame and tapped threads (not fun) Repaired mechanical linkage for blade hydraulics including new bracket and associated bell cranks, bearings, rod ends Installed new muffler and exhaust pipe (finalize after installing hood) Unresolved work (will open new threads where I could use advice): Leak at hydraulic pump Leak on right final drive (outboard of rear sprocket) Reinstall belly plans when ready Drain, flush, refill coolant I'm attaching a before and after pic of the hydraulic linkage for info.