I have recently acquired a Trojan 114 wheel loader and have been working on getting it operational. The previous owner was going to scrap it because it won't reach his tall dump body. I got to spend a couple of afternoons on it so far, checked all of the fluids, put fresh batteries in it, tried to fire it off. She ran for about 10 seconds on its own, built 50psi of oil pressure and then stalled. The starter gave way and is out for a rebuild right now. I did some research and found out the engine is an International d282. This seems to have been a rather common engine in the 60's and 70's so hopefully I will be able to source anything I need. I am hoping to use this machine to handle trees, dig stumps and generally help me out as I get older and my shoulders hurt more. Here are some pictures as she sits. It's been at this spot for 3 years. I was happy to see that all of the tires still hold air and the cab and glass are relatively in tact. I was told that it was a Coast Guard machine and was mostly used to clear snow on base in its later years. Hour meter reads 8500.
I like your original door, mines got a homemade one. I had to replace a few seals in mine, this place http://www.minnpar.com/ they had a few and were able to find others. I use mine mostly for sawmill duty, forks on it. Easy to work on these old ones, no computer chips!
Thanks Mike. Most of everything that I own is old. They usually better suit my wallet and my mechanical know how I saw your I T setup for your bucket in another thread and hope to do something similar. I would like to have forks, snow plow, an adapter to the skid steer quick attach system, and a grapple at some point. Once everything is running properly I am going to look into plumbing a 3rd valve to the bucket as well. I am familiar with machines such as the Bobcat A300, Ford 555B 4x4 backhoe, 580 Case machines and John Deere 410B 4x4 backhoes and am quite interested to see how this loader stacks against them. I am assuming the bucket capacities of the 114 are greater than most any backhoe. Thanks for the Minnpar link, The brake pedal goes right to the floor so it will surely need attention. I am assuming that a complete rebuild with new hard lines, master cylinder, wheel cylinders ect. will be needed.
My master cylinder leaked, all over the floor. I think there's a thread here on it? I think my bucket is a yard & a quarter - I brought home a white oak log with my 114 that scaled out close to 6000 lbs. The hydraulics picked it right up, on one steep down hill grade I must have tilted forward enough I did lose my steering. Lowering the forks the few inches until the log was rubbing on the road solved that. Like in your signature, I have 5 old Homelites, a '94 F350, and a '74 C-60 - Old is where it's at -
I called my starter guy today. The fields check out ok, bearings, bushings and a new armature are on the way. It's good to know a good low voltage electrical guy. I recommend Dave Guenther every chance I get. He's in Pleasantville, NJ and I would mail stuff to him if I moved too far to travel to his place. Once the starter is in, I hope to get her fired, with some ether help as only 2 glow plugs are good. Once she runs, I'm sure I will have a whole new list of things to pay attention to. The gear linkage is stuck in 2nd, brakes, glow plugs and radiator are chalked up and it hasn't even ran for more than 10 seconds. Yikes!!!
I got my starter back and installed it. I spent a few hours on it the other day trying to get it to run to no avail. Today, I got her to light off. The engine warmed up and runs quite well and seems to have plenty of power. The power steering is howling like no tomorrow; I am guessing the pump is on the engine's left side, same side as the injection pump and starter, and the top comes of with a wing nut and you can add fluid there. It looks a pinkish color so would some ATF do the job? My next dilemma is that I am getting no pressure to the hydraulic system. This is quite odd because the other day when I was trying to start it, I had the bucket going up and down with the operation of just the starter turning the system. The gauge on the dash went to 400psi with just the starter engaged, the engine not running, now I have nearly nothing. I checked the hydraulic tank and it is all but full, 18" of fluid, about 3" of air space. I'm thinking this may be too much fluid.... any suggestions? Also, what does the lever on the left side behind the loader controls do? It needs to be fully engaged forward to get power to the wheels, fully engaged towards the rear gives the wheels power but not nearly as much. There also seems to be a couple of detents in between but doesn't seem to do anything in those positions. Full forward and full reverse seem to engage a gear cog of some sort. I also got a new phone, an HTC Evo and posted my first youtube video ever, of the 114 of course. Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_edit?ns=1&video_id=6xptxBEtDdI
Here is the correct youtube link, the other does not work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xptxBEtDdI
On mine, there are two levers behind the two loader valve handles. The one closest to the seat is a hi-low range, low being all the way down. The other is in-out for 4 wd, down being 4 wd. up being 2. In the middle, you'd go nowhere with either. I'd just be guessing on the other stuff, cold dirty oil can give you fits, hyd or power steering. It needs to be really hot to change it, . Maybe there's something sticking in your system somewhere.
The hi-low range selector makes sense. I'm going top add a quart of ATF to the power steering system today and hope to put that trouble to rest.I will dig in the cab and look for the 4wd lever as well. I am hoping to diagnose the hydraulic system. Once that is operating I can at least get it off of the property that its located on right now. Believe it or not, I have work waiting for it already
Someone may have snapped off the other lever? There should be two. Our loaders look alike, but on mine, the ps pump draws fluid from the hyd. tank, theres a filter on the side of the tank for the pump. I have a Cummins in mine, replaced not many years ago by the state of NY. The ps pump is on the side of the engine.
Looks like your loader was on ebay at one point. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trojan-114-Wheel-Loader-/290571917958?
Thats the one - I found it on Cr. List, about the 5th one I went and looked at. It was about 100 miles from me, turned out the be the least expensive [3800] The little maint. work I've done on it hasn't cost much. Still have a slow leak in the LF I have to fix when it warms up. 2 or 3 gauges too.
I have come to the conclusion that I have water in the hydraulic system. The water has gotten to the pump and was froze the other day when I worked on it last. I pumped out about 25 gallons from the tank so when I drain the rest, the water/ fluid mix should be minimal. When we get a warm day, what is the best way to drain all of the fluid? I plan to remove the inlet hose to the pump and there is a cover on the pump with 4 bolts that I plan to remove. This should get the majority of the water out as the pump is about the lowest point on the system. What about all the other nooks and crannies? Seems like you would have a real hard time getting all of the fluid changed out in this system unless you cycled the cylinders, added fluid to the tank as you put the return in a 55 gallon drum and cycled until you saw new fluid. Am I getting too OCD here?
Good question on the oil & water, I was hoping someone would have an answer too. Maybe a new thread on how to get the water out?
That is kind of what I do, but I go attach a hose to my aux and fill and cycle out, fill and cycle out, 2 or 3 times and I feel like I have gotten most of it.
It's been a while but I had a nice afternoon this week and got to dig into the tractor some more. I got it fired up again despite air intrusion issues and non operational glow plugs. I also got about a gallon of water out of the hydraulic system and put about 15 gallons of oil back in. I blew a hose almost immediately, luckily was easy to get to on the front boom and I had a replacement available. Out of the woods she came and drove her down the road to my residence. I pushed the firewood pile up a bit and put the bucket under a downed bull pine to see what it has to offer. The pine raised up a bit and then the rear tires came up about four feet off the ground. The machine definitely has some good power to it. The list of things to do is growing as I dig into the machine but that's ok. The basic machine is operational, engine, trans, axles, hyd system, all work. I will certainly be busy this summer.:cool2
Trojan update: I have the machine to the point that it will start up rather easily with a small squirt of ether, the gp's are disconnected as of now. I ran her really hard for about 2 hours and the power steering growl went away and it works perfectly now, one system down. I am to the point of digging into the brake system, probably going to add fluid to the master cylinder and see what happens. Will repair as the leaks become evident, haha. I got the torch out and heated the metal block at the base of the steering wheel to free up the shift linkage. 2 shifts later, the ball and socket was frozen on the rods under the floorboards and snapped, go figure. I will get to that soon and have all gears fully functional. I have also fulfilled my obligations set forth to acquire the machine and now own it out right, bartered in exchange for doing electrical work. Divorced and poor, I am grateful this deal came across my plate. Future plans include glowplugs, welding work on the bucket, the floor is really short, want to add about 10" and a new cutting edge. Brakes, lights, windshield wiper, full fluids and filters change. Plenty to do but I am happy that the basic machine is fully operational and the major components are worth working with. I will try to get some more videos up soon as there isn't too much activity with this vintage machine on the internet.
I finally flushed the hydraulic system out and filled it with about 30 gallons of fresh fluid. I also bought a trailer so I can move the thing around now. Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
Here's a pic of the complete rig. Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
Very cool. Keep up the good work.
I am happy to have found someone that has the same machine as i have. I am trying to find a dipstick for mine, not oil, but for the transfer case, is there any other new model of machine that takes the same dipstick, so that i might have an easier time of finding a replacement for mine.
Nice looking older machine. Good job getting it up and running. I have 2 Michigan units that are just a little bit older, one I had to do some similar items to get it running, the other was semi-operational when I got it. Any further updates on getting things fixed on it? Any idea on how much it weighs? That triple axle trailer looks like its squatting pretty good with it on it!
Didn't realize I already posted this picture, lol. I haven't really done too much to the machine lately. I was going to have the injectors rebuilt but have not had the time needed to get them out. I also need to rebuild the bottom of the bucket or source a new bucket all together. She's a great runner once you get her started!
Do yourself a favour and get the glowplugs working! The ether method will catch up to you. Those are tough old engines but will give up the ghost if they ingest to much fire fluid. Good luck with your restoration.
Those International engines have always been booger bears to start when they are cold. The glow plugs should be readily available, they made a reappearance in the powerstrokes and IH engines in later years. Like the man says" "the ether method will catch up with you" without even realizing it, the repeated use of ether will slowly cause you to lose compression either by pressure erosion or the repeated detonation in the combustion chamber may eventually warp the rods enough to bend rods and reduce combustion. I actually ran an H50 Hough that we warped the head on it because we could not afford to kill it for 3 days because of having to load ice rock.
Confused? are you sure thats a 114. mine is a 124 and looks exactly like yours but I got a IH BD 264 gas job.
Looking at buying a t114 tractor shovel, 4x4 with gas engine. Has 4050 hours on it. Seems to be in great shape. Does anybody know what tis machine weighs? I want to be able to haul on my existing trailer. Thanks in advance for your help.
The book doesn't give a weight, but my guess would be 15,000 lbs. or less. Mine isn't huge by todays standards, 1 1/4 yd bucket & counterweight not huge either.
Thanks, i think I am going to make a deal on this machine near me. Thanks again
The D282, D301 and D236 family of diesel engines are gasoline engines converted to diesel. There are only 4 head bolts around each cylinder. The gasoline version of these engines were extremely durable, but the diesels were prone to blown head gaskets, warped heads, broken head bolts and cracked heads. Sometimes the glow plugs, which go in precombustion chambers, warp to the point where they are a real pain to get out. The 282 is dry sleeved and the 301 was parent bore. The 236 was used in farm tractors. None of these engines are very powerful.
Ended up buy this machine fo $1500, and drove it home. Runs great! Looking for books on machine. Is a 124 similar?
This place here http://www.tractorparts.com/misc.htm has copies of manuals for these old machines - The one you got looks really nice, original door, side panels, etc - I think you stole it at 1500.
That is an awesome price! Congrats.
Although I'm not a fan of the D282 engine, I would have paid $1500 for a loader as clean as that one.
Hey thought I'd jump in and say hi to some fellow 114 owners. Cheers!
I am envious... in 1964 sitting on my Dads lap, I took a little spin in one of Morrison Knudsens Trojans when Dad was working for them building I5 through Seattle. Started a romance with those machines that has stood the test of time. I was so enchanted with it's face.
Nice thread! I just bought a Trojan 114 today because I want the D-282 to put in my Hough 60. The Hough has a D-301 but the head is cracked in every cylinder and I couldn't find a good head. It no longer spends it's days in the gravel pit so the D-282 should work fine. That being said everything else is for sale, piece by piece or the whole thing. Afterwards unfortunately the rest goes to the scrap yard. Hopefully others on here can get some good parts from it. It is a running, driving machine right now. By next weekend the motor should be out. I'm near Winsted, MN.
Dan I have a good head for a 282/301 IH and would be interested in your whole 124 for parts except that you're pretty far away. Next best is I'd trade you the entire 282 engine (head was taken off to be rebuilt but project stalled) for the transmission and converter from your Trojan 124 if you can strap those parts to a pallet and send them LTL freight. Likewise I'd put the 282 on a skid and send it to you the same way - should be $200-300 if you can drop off/pick up the pallets at a freight depot.
I would definitely be interested in doing some trading. My son drives over-the-road and might be able to strap a pallet behind the sleeper as the truck has a long wheelbase. He could bring out what your want for parts & I could get your engine. He pulls a hopper trailer so can't put parts in there. Let's talk on the phone. Let me see how to get you my phone number in a private message like most chat boards have. Thanks, Dan
I have a 1966 114 straight 6 gas...not a manual. Is there any way of knowing if the flywheel is the same... Mine has a bad spot with a few bad teeth.. I am always turning the flywheel by grabbing the fan belts to get the starter To a good spot to start the motor.. I need a new flywheel..
I might be able to help you, @ItalianDude . I have a UD264 out of my Trojan 124 which I repowered that should have the same flyhweel as your machine. I'm in the process of trading the old gas motor with other items to @Hough Dan but if he doesn't need the gas flywheel then I could ship it to you. Send me a PM if you're interested.
Hi guys, I'm looking for an exhaust manifold for my gas 114. Mine is warped badly and cant be saved. I have the downdraft intake set up where the carb sits up top and the exhaust goes down out the bottom. Also my rear kingpins are really sloppy if anyone knows of a fix or maybe I have to replace the whole rear end. Thanks
Like chevenstein stated we are going to be doing some trading and there will be a flywheel available. I don't need the flywheel, I have others at home already with other IH gas engines, so since we haven't done our trade yet I would say to work w/chevenstein to get a flywheel unless you are closer to MN where I am at. Makes no difference to me. Thanks
The only one I have available right now has a crack on one of the ears on the exhaust manifold side. But like in the prior reply to Italiandude, chevenstein might be able to help you out with that as well since we haven't completed our trade. As for the kingpins in the back I do not know the condition of the ones in my machine which is ultimately going to be traded to chevenstein.
The crack looks to be where the intake and exhaust mate together? Do you have a photo of the gasket surface where the manifold bolts to the head? Can you lay an edge on it to see if its straight? What is your price? Thanks for responding
Hi, Im looking for an exhaust manifold for my gas 114. Mine is badly warped and cant be saved. I have the down draft carb where the carb is mounted up top and exhaust goes down out the bottom. Thanks
I took it off the engine couple years ago and put it in the barn. You can still see where each port was up against the head, both intake and exhaust. I put a level against it and it looks pretty straight to me and actually when I set it outside it was actually level. Due to the crack on the ear of the exhaust manifold and the probability of the bolts twisting off in the intake if trying to separate I would suggest keeping this unit complete as it is to put on your engine. Make me an offer. You can call me on my cell if you want to talk about it. 612-360-9400 Thanks, Dan