I know what the tractor is, I think I know what the loader is, but I am mystified by the hoe. I didn't see any identifying marks, but it and the tractor are the same color and I looked hard and its either a fantastic respray or its factory. I read that Ferguson co-marketed with Davis, but I haven;t seen this shape boom on a Davis or Sherman hoe before. Tips appreciated.
looks A like a sherman dad had a old fordson major with one something like it on
good paint job
wain-roy?
99% Im 99% on this cause I had one. The tractor is a TO 30 or 35 Furguson, the back hoe is a Pippin and the loader is a beefed up Lord, common on 2,8 and 9N Fords Ill dig a photo of mine, same thing long gone traded in for a 5500 Ford early 1970's. If my brain still works I think the TO30 was a heavier TO20 and the TO35 has high & low range (twin stick) Continental Z134 engine.
The tractor is definitely A Massey,and more than lightly a 20 diesel.
The tractor is a TO-30 (the badge and serial prove it) with the gasoline Continental Z129. It has the sherman tranny but I thnk it is a step-up tranny to drive the PTO for the hydraulics on the hoe. I will get it home later this week and can start working it. If I find a badge on the hoe I will let y'all know. It will need some work to make it tip top and I will doubtless be asking y'all for help. Not as industrial a machine as the 580ck and others I looked at, a lot cheaper than a new kubota, but probably just right for me. Big enough t do what i need, small enough for me to be able to work on it. thanks, all!
Yup, it's a pippin- I googled pippin and found a pic. Great job! The guys on this forum know just about everything.
I have an old Pippin Backhoe attached to my 1955 Ford 850 tractor & would like to know what fluid do I use in this unit? Pippin had a fluid made for them back in the 50'S but it is not available now. This unit runs seperatly from the tractor with it's own resavoir and PTO driven pump. I need to do a fluid change soon as it is starting to show some foaming. Thanks. Pete
Since the mystery has been solved, and since Pete B. came up with a question specific to the Pippin, I edited the name of the thread to include it. That should make it more likely that somebody will see it and have maybe have an answer. (I never heard of one before...) :beatsme
Pippin I finnally found a photo of one I had, mounted on a Ferguson TO35
Pippin Taken sometime in the late 1960s or early 1970s
I finally decided on Coastal "303" UTF and it seems to be working fine. Once I figure how to upload pics, I'll put some up of my Pippin. :beatsme
Here is my Pippin setup on my 55 Ford 850 (see below)
Peter that's a sweet item you have,do you have any-more info on it??
What would you like to know?
Where were they made, engine cc, skid unit maker, how long were they in production, laoder maker ??
Ford 800 Series Featured an improved, 172 cubic inch engine, approximatly 45hp (belt tested), New five speed transmission as standard, The 850 had a dependent PTO, Produced from 1954-1957 at Dearborn, Weight was 3425#, Original price was around $2200.00, 4X2 : 2 wheel drive, Wheelbase: 121.8 inches. The loader is a Ford / Dearborne model #19-97 (I got an extra bucket when I bought it, wider but shallower.) And that's about all of it. The backhoe is a Pippin model #116.
And the pippin history is.....
All I can tell you is it was made somewhere back in the early to mid '50's. I have manuals for the model 120 & the 300's series but nothing on the 116. Everywhere I find one for sale, it's out of print / not available. I was told the 120 model is very similar and I could use that manual. I guess I'll just keep searching for a copy.
If anyone has a copy of the Pippin #116 manual, please contact me and we'll talk price.
I have a Massey Ferguson 202, 1958 I think, and I could not figure out what the backhoe was. I was just going through the service manual I got with the tractor and there scribbled in pencil the original owner wrote Pippin model 116, serial number 7651. It's a full shop manual for the tractor and the Davis loader that must have been factory installed but unfortunately I have nothing on the backhoe. The tractor just died today, simply stopped running and won't start now but when it is running that backhoe is great. Mine is loose as can be and the cylinders need rebuilding but it is still strong and a good digger.
I guess I can't post pics yet, still a probationary member but I will when I can. Ah, now I can add pics. Not the prettiest tractor but I love it.
Where abouts are you in CT? I am in Northford and would like to make a copy of you manual if you would let me. I could even do it with my camera. My Pippin leaks at the four control levers and I want to rebuild them this winter and a copy of the manual would be a big help. Also, I was an auto mechanic for 50+ years and if you want, I would be glad to take a look at your machine to see why it doesn't start. Is it gas or diesel?
I just re-read your post and if I am correxct, you do not have any info on the Pippin. Well, my offer still stands on helping you get it back up & running. Let me know where you are located. Pete
Hi Pete, I don't see anything in my manual on the backhoe but it's a big thick book so I'll go through it in more detail just to make sure. I am in Lebanon CT, over between Windham and Norwich. I am gonna take another stab at getting her going tomorrow, I have a little bit of mechanical ability but I'm far from a pro. If I can't I know a good tractor mechanic who said he would come take a look. Hopefully he won't charge me too much. Very generous of you to offer to come out, if I am still at a loss I will let you know. My backhoe leaks from the levers too and it leaks down really fast so I have to chain it up to drive the tractor. Maybe someday I will get the cylinder rebuilt, assuming that is what it needs. I'll keep you posted on my progress, thanks again!
I too have to chain my BH up to keep it from sagging to the ground when I need to move or park the machine. I bought a couple of chain binders & some 1/2" chain and it makes it a lot easier to keep it in place when it's parked or moving. I'll also get some pics up soon of my replacing the front bucket with some info on the troubles I found when taking off the old one. Almost done drilling the holes in the other buckets 2 outer brackets and then I have to weld on the 2 inner brackets and install new bushings in the arms.
Pete B. you still have the model 120 manual? maybe you scanned it? i got a model 120 last year and looking on info. planning on addind bolt on connections to convert it to a 3 pint hitch hopefully. otherwise fab up a frame mount. tj
And if you take any care with it all all it will only go up in value. Good grab. Edit: Anyone know how this one turned out?
Pete hasn't been active for well over 2 yrs. He might still be around under a new name......
Well, it's been several years since I posted but I might as well update my situation. I did get my tractor going again, it was just a bad coil, have had to replace that twice now so it may have a larger electrical issue. It won't charge the battery either, never did since I bought it so I just figured it needed a new generator. I just jump started it. Now it died this fall and won't start. Even with a brand new, fully charged battery the starter just makes one clunk sound and that's it. No clicking like, just one clunk. So I am thinking it does have bigger electrical issues. I don't have a garage or barn to work in so I will look at it in the spring and hopefully get it going again. It needs a rebuild anyway, at least the top end. I am just hoping the engine isn't seized. I don't think it is. The backhoe was working fine though when it died. I was digging a trench at the time. I did go back through the shop manual for the tractor and as I thought, nothing on the hoe, just full documentation on the tractor and the Davis loader.
It's possible that the started is simply locked. Happens easily on older machines, especially when voltage is not optimum such as in jumping. Used to rock them backwards in high forward gear to bump the engine a fraction backwards to get them to release. If possible to get a wrench or bar on the front of the engine try to bump it backwards may work for you. Or loosen the starter often does it also. Sounds like if thats not it the starter has to come out anyway. Good luck and keep us posted. Of course the started locked has nothing to do with it dying in the first place. Only tring to start it afterwards. How did it sound when it died? Seem to slow down and pull hard? Screech? Or like someone shut the switch off? How hard and long had it been working at the time? It may be better to start a new thread when you fix it with an appropriate title. You will get more knowledgeable folks seeing it then.
As far as the tractor part you may be better off getting on another forum that deals with farm tractors. Yesterdaystractors is a good site and has a board just for ** tractors. My next comment is the electrical. Those old tractors like that had about 5 wires total. Or you can buy one. One site list the main wiring harness for about 150 dollars. Making a wiring harness is a couple of hour job. Plus converting to an alternator and 12 volt is easy and cheap. Last old tractor I converted cost me about 125 dollars. That included the mounting brackets, alternator and battery. If you go to build a new wiring harness for it solder and shrink tube is your friend. While crimp on connectors work they are prone to failure because of vibration and moisture. Rick
Bummer. well hopefully he or someone else will see this and chime in! Tj
My friend owned a small machine shop. He bought a machine first brought in for repair. It was a Ford NAA Golden Jubilee 1956? or close. It had a Wagner loader, and a backhoe that was shop built. It was obviously a copy of this hoe. It was way too much for the small tractor, and broke a major casting. My friend took it off the tractor and installed it as a quick attach accessory on a tow truck. He called it his Tow Hoe
Since everybody has an opinion I'm no exception. Old 6 volt electrical systems worked fine when new. They can work fine again. Understand that resistance is a severe problem in these old systems. They lack electrical pressure to overcome weak or high resistance connections. The cables, and all terminations must be shiny and tight. As the tractor is usually used as a conductor, everywhere it bolts together forming an electrical path must be clean, and tight. Battery cables have to be much larger than in a 12 volt system. Most of these tractors were originally positive ground. Reversing this is OK but the coil must be rewired or spark is weak across the spark plug. The antique Ford Tractor magazine had an excellent article a few years ago about it. Before converting to 12 volts consider adding a second battery in parallel This will need its own solenoid, cables etc. It has solved my problem with my 1961 diesel. Both batteries must be identical.