The machine we just bought is blowing lots of oil (JD 410C Turbo, Ext. 4x4). The engine is a Turbocharged 4276. It is smoking a good bit and blowing oil out the exaust pipe. will all that oil cause a major problem. Like catch fire, hurt the turbo? If there is that much oil blowing by the rings, will fuel residue also get into the oil? What are some things to watch for. The machine runs strong just blows oil. I could use any and all help and suggestions. I know I have had quite a few posts, but I am just finding out that maybe we made a bad purchase. Thank You Shawn :Banghead:Banghead:Banghead:Banghead
yes , It could catch fire, hurt the turbo? Maybe the turbo is the problem? Pull the oil filler cap and see if there is any kind of pressure coming out there. Either way that engine isn't long for this world if the problem isn't found and corrected.... gramps.
turbo is exhaust driven,,, could be bearing oil seal leaking into exhaust bearing has high oil supply due to speed of turbo
That is making some sense, yesterday I notoced a lot of oil on the side of the engine block,right under the turbo. Could oil from that supply line be getting into the turbo andcould that be what is causing the smoke and the oil coming out the exaust? Thanks so much for your help Shawn
Yes, like others have said your turbo seal might be leaking oil into the exhaust.
OK, took the turbo off and it was in horrible shape. I could put my finger on the compressor impellor and the shaft would move in a circle about an inch in diameter. There must be no bearing left at all. Can a turbo be rebuilt? Or is this one too far gone? Where should I purchase a Turbo? The turbo is an AR/60. I looked online and the 4276 engine calls fior an AR/70 turbo. I assume this turbo is just bolt on, no adjustments? Can someone help me with what Turbo to purchase and Maybe Where? I live in southeastern PA. Plasterer Equip. is one of the nearest dealers. Should I go to JD for parts or somewheere else? Should I get a rebuilt or Brand new? Thank everyone for their responses Shawn
Yes a Turbo can be rebuilt.. yes its probably gone to far and worn into the housing itself. A rebuilt turbo is fine in my opinion and as far as where to go,,, Im not familiar with your area so I can't help you there, but it sounds like your already doing your homework on the subject,,, good luck with her ....... Gramps
Thanks, do you have any thoughts on why other engines have the AR70 and my engine had the AR60? And which one I should get? Shawn
I just last week have this same problem, with a dump truck I bought. Turbo was worn completely out. I have had issues like this before, so I knew what not to do. My engine is a Cat-C12, Cat wanted $1200 plus a $900 core charge (they may refund your money, or not) I talked to a couple of my truck shops and one could get me a new turbo for $950 (no core) the other shop could get me a rebuilt one to $1050 no core. I bought the new one and had it in two days. Dont get hung up with that core charge, you will get burnt. Basically Cat says you will buy a core up front and IF they can rebuild yours, they will refund your money. This has taken me up to 60 days to get the refund and sometimes I dont get it at all. There is a place in Charlotte, NC that deals just in turbo's. I dont remember the name, but google may help you find it. Im sure there are places in your area I would look in the exhaust port and see if its wet with oil, signs of possible rings gone bad Do you see and oil coming from around the exhaust manifold, where it bolts to the engine? More signs of bad rings
Turbos can be rebuilt, BUT, if they are not worn out just looking through some of my books Turbo exchange 800 377 6605 RF Engine 800 828 6943
I just sold a good ar60 for $200. I'd look for a used one. Get your hands on it and make sure there's no fore, aft, vertical or horizontal shaft play.
What is the difference between a AR/60 and an AR/70? IF it the size and the amount of boost it will apply, should I use the smaller one? I guess my thinking would be to make less stress on the engine. Even though I know that boost can be regulated. At least on the race car engines I used to dream about having one day when I was 20 (30 yrs ago). Also there doesnt seem to be a wastegate on this turbo. Shawn
Anyone ever deal with farmlandtractor(Oregon)? They have the turbo I need for $625. SSB tractor (NY) has it for $720.JD (where ILive)wants$1089. Anyone ever deal with Farmland or SSB? Shawn
i'd think the ar/70 would be a little larger, but :beatsme if memory serves me correct, those turbos only put out 3 or 4 lbs of boost. deere "officially" used to refer to them as "altitude compensators" :drinkup
Got the one from farmlandtractor. $625 brand new no core charge. Deere wanted $1089. With 3 to 4 PSI good thing I only live at about 500 feet above sea level
Reylocs, Glad to hear you found a new turbo at a good price. Let us know how it works once installation is complete. How many hours are showing on the meter?
I live about 4 miles from Farmland Tractor. They are a large wrecking yard for farm and industrial equipment. They sell used, new and rebuilt parts. I've purchased new parts from them. They're usually pretty 'proud' of their used stuff.
The hour meter says 2900. The last ten yrs the machine has been with two home owners that used the machine to build their own houses so I hope those are the origional hrs. I will let everyone know how it turns out. Putting it back together Fri. Or Sat. Any tips on the instalation? The manual says to crank the engine with the wire off the injector pump, i would assume to get a good oil flow to the turbo bearing before it starts spinning. Thanks for everyones help. Shawn
You would be assuming right Reylocs,,, also when tightning the base of the turbo down remember to torque evenly. Good luck and I hope this makes her run like a swiss watch!!! Grampa.
There is also something else I noticed. The turbo dumps the exaust into an cast elbow. I saw that the casting is pretty worn and they had some kind of silicone or permatex where the turbo goes into the elbow. Is this ok to do again? And if so what product should I use. Thanks Reylocs
I would go ahead and reseal it... I use furnace (stove) cement around potential leaky exhaust connections, you can pick it up at your local hardware store.
I did some research today and folks on a exaust repair site recommended permatex muffler and tailpipe putty. I would think the exaust manifold gets hotter then a muffler.
Many, many years ago about 30 or so I worked for Aero Kool corp hialeah fl. We had the industrial side (Turbo Tech) and the Aero Kool aircraft side. I ran the industrial side. We rebuilt turbos for everything that flys or runs on the ground. My expertise was to not only run the shop but to design better ways to rebuild the units and teach people how to do it. We actually Helli-arc welded the worn edges of the aluminum side and using air die grinders to grind them to the proper thickness. Then lathe turned the contour to match the housing. Did the same on the exhaust side using different materials. There are two bearings, actually bushings made out of brass alloy. Each has six holes about .090" for oil. When the unit spins up, some to 30,000 rpm the inner, shaft and outer, housing bearing surface rides on about .0015" film of oil. Once the bearing get to much play the driven side and the output side wears into the housing destroying the entire unit. One of the first signs is raw oil out the exhaust. One of the worst things anyone can do is to shut an engine down to fast. This drops the oil pressure while still spinning fast and scores the bearings. Even at start up, racing an engine before the oil get to the bearings will start to destroy it. Knowing what I know, I would spend the money and buy new.