Hi I'm new here and this is my first post. Currently I'm having a rough time. I purchased an old (1988) Case 1818 skid steer about 2 weeks ago. I got it home and put it in the shop. The next morning I went out, started it and cleared snow for a couple hours. I was really pleased with it's performance. The other day I went out to start it and it wouldn't fire up. It turned over but refused to fire. So I checked the fuel and everything was ok. Actually I topped off the tank with about 3 gals. I checked the fuel filter and it had fuel in it. So before I started ripping into the fuel system I figured I'd check some of the electric/ignition wiring and started by removing the condenser. I did a continuity test using a DVOM. When the condensor was out of the machine it showed no continuity between the end of the wire and condenser case. Then I put the condenser back in the machine and tested it with the DVOM. It showed continuity between the end of the condenser wire and the case. My next test was going to be a test of the coil. But before starting that I went ahead and pulled the plug wire off the spark plug and put a spark plug in to check for spark. And the result was no spark. I had the key on and was jumping it across the solenoid on the starter. I was about to quit when I notice it sparked and just about that point backfired and darn near blew my arm off. I'd been crouched down in front of the exhaust when she fired and it blew flames and black soot all over my arm. I even received a bit of a burn on my arm. But the arm doesn't bother me as much as the tinnitus in my ears. But to keep going. I went up to check the switch, thinking maybe there was a wire shorted across the back of it. But after pulling the cap off the under side of the overhead dash and removing several cubic yards of mouse nest. It was about that time I noticed I had no juice coming up to the switch. The gauges were dead and a check with the DVOM showed no current through the wires coming up to the switch. After spending some time scratching my head, removing the seat and poking around in several dark corners I came to the conclusion I wasn't going to find a fuse box or see any fusible links in the hot wires going to the switch. And that's where my question lies. Is there a fuse box somewhere hidden on the machine I'm not seeing, or a fusible link in line on one of the hot wire's to the switch? I'm baffled about where to go next and I really can't afford a service manual at this time. I'm hoping someone on this forum could help me.
If you run a temp wire from battery to the coil and jump the solenoid now will it start and run? If so then the dist parts are ok and back to the short, broken wire or bad fuse.
Thanks Stovein for getting back to me so fast. I've thought of the jumper wire and haven't gotten around to it as of yet. My question is in regards to whether there's a fuse box on the machine or an inline fusible link. I'd like to be able to run without a jumper on it. There's no juice to the switch. I've checked for voltage in the wiring coming up to the switch. I have 0 volts. I realize that's telling me there's an issue in the wiring and I'd like to find if it's because of a fusible link or possibly a blown fuse. This machine is new to me. I have no idea where the fusible link or the fuse box might be located on the machine.
My attention right now is to get power to the switch by repairing the fuse or fusible link (whichever it might be). I'll worry about the non-running issue after I fix the no juice to the switch issue.
My attention right now is to get power to the switch by repairing the fuse or fusible link (whichever it might be). I'll worry about the non-running issue after I fix the no juice to the switch issue.
There should be a red wire at the starter solenoid, follow it and you should find a 30 amp fuse that feeds the ignition switch.
On my 1845B from the same era, it has had several of the wiring connectors in the system bypassed. I would check those over carefully.
http://www.colemanequip.com/Case-18...UGES-GASOLINE-MODELS-ONLY-0DKy/?#partdiagrams Here is a link to a picture of your harness. Hope it helps. http://www.colemanequip.com/Case-18...ON-SYSTEM-GASOLINE-MODELS-0DKg/?#partdiagrams This is a link to your ignition system. You will notice a harness connector for the distributor. That would be a very suspect item. Check for heat damage and evidence of arcing. If none, clean all connections to bright and shiny and put it back together.
Thanks for everyone's response. It's really been an experience trying to repair this darn thing. But I'm learning a lot about the machine and I've done a few things with it that had nothing to do with the original issue. I'm excited now to get it up and running again now that I've learned more about it. I've got a crazy kind of question for any of the owners who might be familiar with this machine. The hydraulic pump has a high pitched squeal when it's operating that sounds like it might be cavitating. But the oil is up where it belongs and the additives been added to it. So is the "squeal" a kind of normal thing for these Case machines? I hope to get it up and running by tomorrow. It's warmed up here in Northern Minnesota and I'd like to scrape some ice and packed snow off the driveway before it turns cold again.
On my 1816 the ignition current runs through the ammeter. If the ammeter is faulty, the engine will not run. I put a jumper over the two terminals of the ammeter, and it worked fine.
Found the fuse and got power to the switch. But now I'm working on issue #2. And please don't laugh at me but I have to know if this machine (1818 CASE skid steer) was designed in such a way that I have to pull the motor, then the flywheel in order to get to the ignition module? Is pulling the engine as much fun as it looks like it could be? Thanks in advance for your help.
Bump
From what I have seen, most skidders are designed so that you have to pull the motor to tighten the motor mount bolts, or anything else. Sometimes they give the option of leaving the motor in place but removing the the cab and body.
If your needing to remove the flywheel then yes you will need to remove the engine to access the flywheel. Do you think there is a problem with the ignition module?
Can't be sure about the 1818, but on the 1816 you have to remove the engine to do anything, including replacing a drive belt. I had one heck of a time getting those four bolts back in. I think Case designed them to be in spots 1/8" smaller than the human hand could fit. The last time I had the machine in the shop, they rigged up a 3/4" steel plate with some elongated slots in them. The bolts can be loosened from above, and they can slide enough to slip a belt over. Belt changes are a snap, and engine removal and replacement is a quick and easy process.