I bought a 1988 Ford C8000 5 yard dump truck that has been sitting for quite a few years. I knew the truck ran great years ago because I drove it, but after sitting for years I haven't been able to get it running right. The first time i tried starting it I hand primed it, and had a hell of a time getting it started, but it eventually did and the engine started racing right away so I shut it down. On a second attempt to start it on another day, I had a hell of a time getting it started, but it finally did. It struggled a little bid but it started idling beautifully. I let it idle until air pressure built, and as soon as I got in the truck to move it, the engine started racing without touching the throttle at all. I shut it down immediately. After that, the truck just would not start. Today I made a third attempt to start it using some starting fluid. With a little coaxing, it started up but I had to keep my foot on the gas peddle to keep it running. I had my foot to the floor but it would only run at about 600 rpm. I thought maybe something happened to the throttle linkage but it was fine. I moved the linkage by hand at the injector pump but it would do nothing. Does this mean the injector pump is bad? Or is there some other simple thing I could check? And I put a new fuel filter and water separator on it. Thanks for any input.
How many years has this rig sat without running? Asking to find out if it possibly had bio-fuel in it when parked.
The years fly by so fast I can't really keep track. Maybe 10 years. The truck was run off road and had red dyed diesel in it. I put 5 gallons of new fuel in it too.
Bio can be dyed also. The reason I ask is bio can raise hell over long period of time-turn into a goo. But any moisture in the fuel collected in pump over a period of time can do the same. It sounds like governor may be a issue along with internal linkage freezing up. The pump guy on here might be able to help.
The 3208 governor linkage will seize up when they sit for a long time. Every time I've seen this happen it requires removing the top cover of the injection pump, clean everything and get the racks moving freely. Can't really advise on how to do that as it's been well over 20 years since I've done that repair, way too many cobwebs in my head.
They use a sleeve metering system and it sounds like one or more of the sleeves is sticking on its barrel. If you remove all the bolts holding the top cover on and remove it carefully you should be able to see if its clean around the sleeves. The governor is in the back section inside the cover where the throttle lever is. If you take any part of the injection pump apart for any reason, you should have the rubber air intake elbow removed and a steel blockoff plate handy to slap over the air intake if it runs away, especially if its already tried to
Spot on 56wrench. And I seem to recall, way back in the foggy memory of my mind, I think it's the throttle lever area of that top plate, thinking at the rear of the top plate, where the throttle linkage connects to the internal metering racks. The internal of the metering racks are flooded with fuel, but there's a seal where the throttle linkage enters the internals, prevents fuel from getting into that area where the throttle lever works the pump. Seems I recall moisture creating havoc in that area, rust and corrosion since it's dry. Again, these problems surface on one that's been sitting for extended periods. And the primary fuel filter, that square glass stanadyne filter, so many times I've seen someone fit the wrong filter. That square glass stanadyne filter comes in two flavors, a filter and a strainer. They are not the same. They'll both fit the same mounting base, but their porting is totally different. The 3208 used the strainer version on the primary. If one fits the filter version, it's just passing fuel through, ain't doing a damn thing.
56wrench is spot on with removing the cover slowly. Nothing worse than the sound of a stuck sleeve suddenly releasing when the covers off and you hear a popping sound and than a tink, tink tink as parts are flying around your shop.
I don't remember any seal between the governor section and the main body because the governor section at the rear is also full of fuel. When the throttle shaft seal leaks, it can cause issues besides leaking fuel into the V of the engine. It can be checked by installing a temporary clear looped fuel line into the return on top of the pump and checking for air bubbles as you operate the throttle as its running. There should be no air bubbles. Also, if you remove the governor section to check for contamination or sticking, you might as well change the shaft seal while you've got it apart. You don't have to remove the injection pump to remove the governor section but you will have to remove the air crossover and other stuff to gain access. You will need to blow out any and all the crap that may be down in the V of the engine. If you remove the governor section, make sure you don't miss a bolt - it should come off easily. It will puke some fuel out as you remove the governor housing but this is normal. You will need also need a new governor gasket and the yellow o-rings under the mount as well as the 2 gaskets for the air crossover. Cleanliness can't be overstated. If you remove the injection lines, they should come off in 2 or 3 clumps, not individually so you only need to remove a couple of the line clamps that hold the 2 or 3 clumps together. Also, the clear glass square strainer/filter in this case is known as a water separator
I think It's going to end up at a cat dealer or pump shop. jmo.
No experience with 3208's, but I've had injection pumps that were stuck from sitting and then work themselves loose with the benefit of solvents. You don't have much to lose by mixing up 1 part acetone/flammable brake cleaner, 3 parts ATF, 4 parts diesel and running it on that for a half hour, then letting it sit for a day, repeating until it runs right, or you give up. if there's a dry section that's rusted up, then the solvent mix won't do anything for that part.
I have A Lot of experience doing top end jobs on 3208’s.. U better know what ur doing and have the Cat bonnet tool..AND A torque wrench.. Ur best bet is to find someone that works at a fuel shop that moonlites.
Water damaged, Cat Sleeve Metering pumps kept me busy when I lived in Ketchikan. I haven’t messed with one for years, now.