Thanks in advance. I've got a oldish TB50 that is finicky when it comes to driving on the ground. I just got it and haven't tested it extensively, but so far I've observed it 1) going in the wrong direction...when offloading from the trailer it went forward properly to a point, then decided reverse was "forward". 2) not going "uphill"...it should be able to handle a 25% grade...my driveway is no where near that...yet it had to be towed. and finally 3) not wanted to go in any direction...but it eventually sorted itself out. I want to think it's something simple that can solve all 3 of these issues, like the progressive speed joystick controller...but before I get my hopes crushed by buying one and having it not work, can anyone recommend steps for further isolating any one of these issues?
I've never worked on a Snorkel so this is just me spit-balling ideas. Is there a limit switch on the swing? Either on the outside or up on the inside of the bearing? On some brands that switch will automatically reverse the drive function if the unit swings past 90 degrees. If Snorkel is designed similar, I would check that switch isn't damaged or jamming up and that the wiring isn't shorted/open. Wouldn't hurt to check the joystick wiring to see that it isn't rubbed through or broken either. If the unit is 2 speed, high speed has much less torque and can have issues travelling up grades. Low speed would have much better torque.
Thanks for the tips...I'll check them out!
Also on some older machines there's a potentiometer on the drive handle. If it's out of whack and goes over center it could go back the other way. I've had that happen but may not have been a snorkel product. It's been quite a while. I can say I think snorkel has or had some of the best and most reliable booms I've ever been around.
An out-of-whack potentiometer is exactly the kind of thing I was thinking could cause all 3 symptoms! I may have to bite the bullet and see how much a replacement drive control is. Not having much luck pinpointing another cause.
There not that hard to center. It could have just slipped on the gear. You can do it with a meter. Or you can loosen th set screw and turn it to the limits both directions and then center it. That's will work but isn't as precise as a meter. Or it could be bad as well.
If it has a small white gear on the pot check if it is cracked if so it will jump teeth If it's bad and to pricey I can repair the joy stick I don't think this would cause the torque problem unless it is stuck in hi gear. Pic's would help
"Upon closer inspection"...I spent some quality time with it today and I think it's just a P.O.S. j/k, maybe, not really. Seems the previous owner also suspected the drive control and replaced it cause it looks brand new, at least compared to the up/down/left/right joystick (whatever it's called). It's spotless, so unless it's the wrong one, my hopes are dimming that it's a simple thing. I don't think it even has the 'switch "forward" when past 180 degrees' function...I did a lot of driving "backwards" today so it either has that function and it doesn't even try, or doesn't have it at all. But, the most serious problem is that it can't make it up a slight incline...just gives up and sits there...it doesn't seem to matter what the setting of high/low drive/engine/speed is set. It also has a serious leak that, of course, wasn't there when purchased :-(
Spent some debugging time today...maybe some of you smarter than I can read something from this: When it stops moving, sometimes both drive wheels do nothing and the other one just spins. I was hoping, for the sake of isolating the issue, that meant one of them wasn't working at all. So, I jacked it up and put it in drive and ... both wheels turned :-(...One is noticeably slower than the other, maybe by 25%, but it does turn. Does that speak to anyone? (it doesn't to me).
A brand new controller still needs the pot set correctly. Unless it came directly from snorkel it needs the pot zeroed, min, max, and thresh set. Not climbing a hill sounds like pump pressure. Ground control side, under the hood, behind the grey box are two test ports. One should be 500psi i think. I know main pressure is 2700 psi. You should only see 2700psi when your asking for a function. If you don't have it there its you compensator or pump. The compensator is adjustable but you probably shouldn't try to adjust it. If you mess it up, it's possible to split the pump into two pieces. And that just makes a big mess. Buy one from snorkel. It'll be preset where it needs to be. Btw snorkels manuals are all online. Snorkellift.com I think. Those old snorkels dont know or care if they're over the front, side or back. Good simple machines they are.
I wonder if there's a traction valve on that unit giving you grief.
Both awesome leads guys. I'll check them out.
So, after much diagnosing and quality time with tech support at Snorkel, it seems to be worn drive motors...the gut-punch is, the cheapest alternatives they sell are >$2700 each. That's not going to happen. These motors don't seem all that specific and technical...but what do I know? Given they don't sell rebuild kits for these anymore either, do you guys have any ideas?
Any hydraulic shop should be able to rebuild those motors or sell you aftermarket motors.
I would have them tested first. on a unit that old they may be guessing
I’d say as stated any good hyd faculty should be able to rebuild them. Not a very common problem. I’ve been involved with lifts and in the lift business self employed and or working for someone since 1984 and I’ve never seen a drive motor go bad. Not saying they don’t but I’ve never seen it. Give me the motor specs and or Part number and I’ll do some checking with people I know who could possibly have old stock
I'm hoping they might be able to rebuild using standard ots parts...cause the rebuild kit isn't available anymore...but again, what do I know. Looks like one has been replaced in the past...can't really tell which is older or newer, they're just a different color and one has a model and serial number where the other doesn't. The model number stamped on the one is RSB038-2242750...that "3" is questionable though...looks like it was stamped over an original number. Partsperson at Snorkle said it was a Von Ruden and Googling turns up some hits via 'von ruden rsb' but nothing that looks similiar. Not really knowing detailed specs on this thing. 2 hole, keyed shaft. But here's a picture.
Oh, and Snorkel said the "new" version I could get is 603-0040-3 ... maybe that model can be cross referenced, but I can't find any info about it on the interwebs.
Yeah Beau, I definitely want my work double-checked, but all things are pointing to them...there's 2000 psi to each one at full pull of the joystick when on the ground and hardly any psi with wheels in the air (which seems to rule out a dragging-brake issue). But, and I can't say this enough, what do I know?
Probably not, parts, if available will cost more than the motor. I did sell two similar units last year for the price of one. I think they were Von Ruden