Hello all! This is my very first post here. Last year I purchased a used loader to do some heavy work on our land. I've owned a few skid steers, farm tractors and we have a decent sized excavator. I wouldn't say I'm a pro by any means. Especially when it comes to knowledge of these machines. I'm a peripheral parts changer and a mediocre operator. With that said...Wow! This machine is a screaming beast! It also needs my help after serving well over the last year. Here's what I need to do to get it going again. Any help on locating parts and hacks to repair is greatly appreciated: 1) The left hydro ram that raises the bucket (or forks) leaks like crazy (2-5gal per day based on usage) and I need to find a seal kit for it. 2) Need ring seal around tire beads x 2. Ours are rusted and pitted and tires leak down quickly. We spend 45min airing up tires each use if a week between use. 3) Throttle pedal sticks like crazy. This has not ended well when moving in tight spaces. We've mowed down a few fences when someone new to the game has hopped in it. We don't tell them on purpose. Haha! 4) Where exactly are the stamped serial numbers on the front and rear of frame? This would save me alot of trouble. The badges on the side are almost completely worn. On the engine info I can read it has a manufacture date of 10/84, V-504-C, engine number 20239471, So. No. D 7878, Engine Cert ID: C.I.D.504, Family: None, CPI: 5023 On the badge thats almost completely worn I can read 75B for sure. To the right of that all I can make out is 3D23...maybe a zero after that. I can post pics of the badge if anyone wants to take a crack at it. I will also post pics of the loader as they are on my mobile and I am currently on a laptop. Thanks in advance! R
Hi Rodbaron, for MICHIGAN 75B, Air Brake Valve is BENDIX E2 or E3. See Photo. Regards
Stefano. Thank you! This will help troubleshooth the throttle sticking. I had no idea that the throttle and air brake system were so closely tied nor have I looked into it until now. Whats your history with these older loaders? R
I am ex Dealer Italy, for MICHIGAN Loader . Have you Mail Andress ?? I have Part Manual for your MICHIGAN 75B. Regards
Thanks Stefano! I am in the Unites States. Maybe it would be easier for me to get one of those stateside? I do not want you to have to pay to ship something internationally! R
Here are some pics of the 75B that I purchased. The info badge pics were too large file size so ill revisit those asap.
Here, s a few more pictures.
Ciao Rodbaron, my Mail andress, is [email protected] . Ho il formato PDF, MICHIGAN 75B Part Manual. Inviami la tua posta Andress. Regards
I see nothing odd about Stefano's offer of a part manual. Look at his history he has sent several manuals in his 20 posts.
Me neither. Based on what I know on HEF over the years the guy is an ex-dealer service tech (retired maybe?), he's 100% genuine and he's offering to help you out by sending you a service manual via email.
A Clark 75B is old enough that many who were familiar with them are no longer around and those still around have forgotten alot of what they knew. I will respond on your other post so that we don't end up having 2 posts going.
As far as your leaking ram goes, the best bet would be to take it off and bring it to a hydraulic shop and have them reseal it. If you think you want to try and reseal it your self, get it off and take it apart, bring the seals to the hydraulic shop and have them match them up. A tire shop that deals with trucks, farm tractors and larger equipment should be able to get you new O-rings. It looks like you have the info to at least begin to fix the throttle issue, as far as where to find numbers stamped, I have no clue. IF I get some time to go out and dig through 17 different 20 gallon totes of old manuals I might have one that gives the info needed.
Thanks. I appreciate your post and will look on my original thread under the wheel loader section. These are the largest machines I've ever worked with and on so I'm both amazed and intimidated but also excited. Lots of power!
Thanks. I did contact MinnPar before I wrote my first post on this forum so its been about a month now I'm guessing. Their site doesn't offer a phone number so I simply emailed an inquiry on their "contact" page. You just reminded me to send another one which i did just now so hopefully I'll get a response. Does anyone have a phone number or email for their parts department?
OK. I appreciate you looking out. I will send Stefano an email and thank him for being generous. I'm not used to someone these hanging their gmail address and offering something so freely without some sort of drawback so I had to be more sure.
Thats alot of manuals! You must have a head full on these rigs! Our next step was exactly what you suggest. We have a hydro shop about an hour from here. On the ring...I'll try and get a size on it so I dont have to pay to break the tire bead off again just to get measurements. We had a used 50% tread tire installed so I can still use the machine after half an hour of air going in. HAHA!
Does your loader have 25” rim tires? If so, I believe all you need is a new o ring. These are also available from anyplace that services or sell large equipment tires. The cylinder packing may end up being a bit more involved. While Minn Par may be able to get you a part number or even a kit, the price may be very prohibitive. I am a big fan of just pulling the cylinder apart and measuring individual seals, backers, o rings, wipers and wear sleeves. I usually purchase all of my seals from a place called Baum hydraulics. They have downloadable catalogs on their website that really help sizing things up. The staff is really helpful too if you run into trouble. As for the throttle linkage, I’m guessing a bit of lube and a bigger return spring will get you going in the right direction.
This is very helpful and simple info. Thanks much! I thought same to try first on throttle linkages and moving parts. We were working in a ton of dust so it hopefully just got dry and sticky/binding up. I checked out Baum...lots there! My tire guy is mobile and says he only does tires. I get that. I'll hunt down a large equipment tire dealer in my region and see if I can turn up anything and will measure the rim and look at tire size again then circle back. 25" sounds about right. Thanks again!
One thing to keep in mind about your lack of replies. That machine is moments away from being 40 years old and while not all that of an oddball still compared to say a Cat 966 loader a bit on the rare side. Also say if was just getting into the field of heavy equipment at say 25 years of age when that machine was new that person is probably retired. An frankly many of those of that age group are not all big on Internet forums. Then again some of us here started pulling wrenches back in the early 1970's when even having a fax machine in the shop office was considered the cutting edge of technology! Like others have suggested the o'ring for the rim seal would be something any good heavy equipment tire shop would have and if you are planning on using this machine for any amount of time you should get to know who does that kind of repair in your area. Same thing for the leaking hydraulic cylinder. I'm sure there are many hydraulic shops in your area. Just did a Google search and found these places near Richmond: Best 10 Hydraulic Equipment Repair in Richmond, VA with Reviews Hydraulic Equipment Repair in Richmond on YP.com. See reviews, photos, directions, phone numbers and more for the best Hydraulic Equipment Repair in Richmond, VA. www.yellowpages.com While I'm at it you could try contacting this guy [email protected] He is located or last I knew was in the Richmond area and might be able to give you some places to try.
Thanks for this info. I will contact the guy in Richmond and see what he has to say. I do drive over that way at times. Its 4hrs but about once per quarter we're out that way. Theres a mobile guy locally and boy is he busy! I'm guessing he stays about 2mo out on services and is mainly putting out fires for farmers, haulers and local government. It makes total sense when you explain the lack of response with the age of the machine. I'm old enough to remember shaking the drum of black powder ink for the Xerox machine and thinking that and correction paper for the typewriter was high tech and WOW...a fax machine! What a concept! I miss those simpler times when I see my kids struggling in a world that seems too busy and then some! For the thread overall heres an update: 1) Were going to take the hydraulic ram off in the next few weeks and take it and/or the seals to a shop. 2) I contacted Stefano and apologized for my assumptions and he promptly sent me the manual via PDF. Its only 708 pages so I'm sure I'll have that all read and memorized by Sunday! 3) Plenty of footwork to do from here on to get one or more O-rings to seal my leaky rims 4) I'll be spraying down and lubing up the sticky throttle pedal this weekend when it is a little warmer outside. All for now! Thanks everyone and I will circle back once I've done my homework.
@rodbaron I am pretty sure you will run into many more issues in the future. Ping me if you need help. I have a 55 B and replaced/repaired 75% in the last years and doing now the remaining 25%.
Hi all! I wanted to follow up on my work since this last post. Sorry its taken a while. Life with two young kids and a single income family with a newer business in this economy has its challenges BUT ive been able to make some head way on the loader. I removed the hydraulic ram on port side and have it on a bench to take apart and going to a local shop to have the seals measured and will get new ones. I sprayed down the sticky pedal for the throttle and it has made a difference so as long as I don't mash the pedal to end range then it springs back. If I go too far then it sticks down and whatever is immediately in front of me is definitely in danger. The front rim is currently my most urgent problem. It leaks down from around the bead pretty much overnight so I have blocked it with wood so its jacked up for now. From what I can see there are some seals on the rim that are marred up. I will need to replace these. Any experience on replacing these o-rings and seals? This morning I have reached out to the suggested seasoned veterans for parts and advice so I will wait to hear back. Any help is greatly appreciated! RS
Not sure what you mean by rim leak. I assume you mean the air is leaking ? You need to replace the o-ring. I did create myself a simple tool based on the one below. If you dont mnd the money buy it, those o-rings need to be replaced once in a while ( Nr 9 in attached document, make sure you get the correct o ring for your tire size) ESCO RingMaster OTR Tire O-Ring and Lock Ring Installation Tool 70162 - The Home Depot The ESCO RingMaster OTR Tire O-Ring Installation Tool (Model 70162) installs and removes o-rings and lock rings on multi-piece wheel assemblies. This tool pushes the tire and ring assembly into place to install the O-ring and lock ring with little effort. Fully adjustable, works great on 3-piece... www.homedepot.com
There is just one oring on the rim. If there's more than one someone has been trying to seal it. I see in your picture the rim is in rough shape. Clean it up as best you can and install the proper oring. Tire guys will load it up with some kind of tire lube to get it to seat. I had an old grader that wouldn't seal. I loaded it up with silicone and it sealed up. I never ran it much at all so I don't know how long that would last. Maybe others have an idea.
As far as the throttle follow the linkage and spray all the joints. Then keep working it and spray more.
Clean all the wheel o-ring surfaces(rim and ring), coat the grooves with tire bead sealer as well as the sealing surface on the ring and install a new o-ring is what i would do.
My rim looks as least as bad but it does seal with a new o-ring. First time it did not seal because it was simple the wrong o-ring. Make sure you buy the correct one ! However I always had issues with air due to nails etc. I installed an air control system , so now the tires stay always filled. I installed dual valves, so when running the motor compressor provides the air, when standing I connect a hose from the shop compressor. See pics.