First off...HELLO!....this is my first actual post here but have read and used the wealth of info here for a while. Now....for the whole story.... I just bought a Case 450B dozer that had been sitting for about a year, decent shape with a 90% U/C (this is my 2nd 450b, first one was a loader)...not sure of the age...cannot find any serial numbers on the machine, guessing about 77-79....got it for $2500 and $400 to get it hauled about 90 miles home, so i'm in it for $2900 right now...not too bad...almost scrap price. The machine had been advertised as having a Power "pushing" problem, would crank just didn't have any power when under a load. Long story shorter...I found # 1 and 2 cylinder with bent push rods off of the rocker arms,(stuck valves due to no upper engine lubrication is my guess) replaced these rods and cranked her up....tons of power at this time, but low oil pressure almost 0 psi idling and 18-20 psi maxed out). Dropped the pan and removed the oil pump, cleaned it up and freed up (polished) the stuck bypass plunger, now have between 40psi (idling) and 65psi (maxed out). Changed the oil again, fresh oil and fuel filters, and ran the machine light to moderate for about 8 hours this past Saturday. Tons of power like I said...temps ran normal, trans pressure great, and oil pressure steady, the machine has moderate blow-by from the valve cover tube, but did all along (top ring?) Now for the problem....at the end of the day the last thing i did was remove a large white oak stump, and didn't push the machine real hard to do it, not to mention I had cut down and removed about 2-3' of dirt from around the stump leveling a pad. popped the stump out and while I was pushing it to the abyss i was pushing everything into, I noticed it started puking a lot of white smoke out the exhaust (oil smell), also notice a considerable loss of power. Checked the fuel tank and I had ALL BUT ran the tank dry...so, I figured I picked up water and trash....replaced the fuel filters AGAIN, drained the remainder of the tank and refilled with fresh fuel. No change after doing this....still puking a lot of white smoke out the exhaust and a considerable loss of power. I need some advice before I start tearing her down Help!
Welcome to HEF woodstock1! Your problem could be timing, the injector pump timing gear is held in place with a spring & button which holds gear in place by pushing against timing cover. If this spring was broken or not there, when you drove into the hole the gear could have moved forward & caused pump timing to change. Other than that an injector could be stuck open & flooding a cylinder.
Im thinking your valves hung again or one was slightly bent from the original problem and after a little running time it finally dropped the valve. If it doesnt sound like it is going to come apart on you, i would run it at low idle and break the injector lines one at a time. Wether it is a valve (causing low compression/improper fuel burn) or an injector like alrman suggested, when the white smoke clears up you know what hole your workig on. You can swap injectors to another cylinder to see if problem follows. If it doesnt you know the head has to come off at least. If it continues to smoke on all of them when loosening injector lines then the pump timing gear or the pump itself is probally the culprit. Good luck!
Hello all new member. Worked on a few case 450,s seems to me if injector pump gear jumped time then it wouldn't start cause then pump would b out of time with the piston fireing order and put fuel in cylinder on down stroke and not combust. Lest that's always been way its happened for me but would say if it starts and still idles probley injector issue
here is the next hurdle...I went ahead and pulled the engine down for a "in frame" (207D) because I found complete Clevite sleeve/piston assemblies on ebay for $42 each with free shipping....170 bucks for all four cylinders....WOW! , and thought I had my rod bearing bought...UNTIL.....after pulling the pistons I found some weird junk....the rod bearings are DAB bearings....one dated 11-78.....two dated 5-80....and one dated 4-81....the part numbers on cyl's 1-3 is A-50973...????cant find that case part number anywhere....and the #4 cylinder (which was the one dated 4-81) was a P/N A-50974....checking it with digital dial calipers it seems to be about .005 smaller than the other three......figure that one out......I need to find some reference to these DAB part numbers so I can tell which rod bearings I need....or at least what the standard journal size was for the 207D rods....I will post another thread with a request for some DAB info for broader exposure than this thread.
woodstock i worked in a auto machine shop for 13 yrs and my dad still has one the different sizes on the rod journals is not as uncommen as people think an estimate of 1 out of 50 cranks that came through our shop would be this way all types of makes. What I would do is pull the crank and have it ground with new bearings sounds like you got a good buy on the machine. With the low oil pressure there was damage done maybe minimal but some.
Classic sign of a turbocharger gone bad.
Pretty sure most 450Bs are naturally aspirated, turbo versions would be very rare.
yes it is naturally aspirated...I think part of the problem was just simply engine wear (for the blow by issue anyhow)....the cylinder walls looked like polished silver, lol....you could see yourself in them....pretty good ridge at the top of #1 and #2 cylinder, and you could plainly see where the blow by had passed the rings on 2 pistons. I already have a new rebuilt injector pump (Hagan tractor)...the other one did have issues from the previous owner "working on it"
Wow, didn't know that. Hardly ever see a diesel engine with out a turbo.