I decided today that my tracks were lose so I checked them, and they were (I assume the correct tension guidelines are the same as a c series ~2" measured to the flat of a pad with a 2nd laid across top roller to front idler) one side was 2 and 1/2" other was 3" so I attempted to adjust them. I didn't have much luck, they seemed to be pretty stiff. It was all I could do to pump them with a lever type grease gun, after 10 minutes of pumping I moved one side 1/4". What am I doing wrong? My 63 has never been that hard. Also what is causing the corners of my sprocket segments to wear like they are (pics included) I figure it's from tracks being to lose??? I've got more pics but my phone is being ignorant and won't let me post them.
Supposedly the rails aren't very old, some where around 1000 hours give or take. The pins don't show a lot of wear and never been turned, so I don't think I'm out of adjustment rod... I hope! This under carriage is in a lot better shape then my 63... so I hope I'm just over looking something. What do you guys think?
One, looks like they are all the way out, on left side it looks like bottom piviot is worn from pic. Remove plug in side of track frame about a foot back and there should be a grease fitting for the guide tube coming out of frame, remove bolts from bottom gaurd and move to forward position, sprockets wearing most likely from pivot shafts are loose/worn and make sure back roller is a single flange, just to start.
That's what I was afraid of... How hard is it to replace/repair the pivot? Thanks for the help. Looks like I've got some work ahead of me.
One more thing, wouldn't my chains have to be wore pretty good for me to be out of adjustment? How much will it gain me by moving it all forward? Also will I gain anything with new segments? I know it's needs this pretty bad. I'm not trying to be rude, I'm just trying to learn, so I apologize for all my stupid questions, I just don't get how much better this under carriage looks compared to the 63, and it has tons of adjustment left.
The idlers look aftermarket, chains could be to, rails look high but pins and bushing could be well worn inside, do they sing like hell when running? If pivots are worn that will allow frames to be rearward, where the tube comes out of frame should be nice and shiny, right side looks like all crome gone, most people don't remove plug to grease, can be tough to get apart.
It really isn't to bad, as far as noise goes, I mean there's a squeak once in a while, but it's not a constant drive you nuts squeak... not any noticeable difference between it and the 63. the chrome is actually there, just a bunch of hard clay stuck to it, and the way the pictures were taken. I'll try to get some better pictures tomorrow.
Moving the idler forward will gain you a lot. Mathematically new sprockets on my A series should gain 2" of slack back. Looks like you have a B series with the bigger tension rod but if not check it to be sure it isn't bent. Its not a fun day to replace them. I bought segments from Heavyquip in Olathe KS for less than half what Cat wanted. John
John, I wish it was a B model!! Lol its a '90. Can a person just run a straight edge on the rod I guess? How hard is it to scoot it all forward? Do you remember what your sprockets ran? Just kinda curious as to what I'm up against money wise. I did order my books for it off eBay tonight, it was a lot of money, but they will pay for their selves I'm sure.
A couple of things. 1. Post the Serial Number prefix just so we know what we're looking at. 2. As accurately as you can measure the track link pitch from centre to centre across 4 links (both sides of the machine) and post the results. I have a nasty suspicion that either those rails are the wrong pitch for the machine and/or there is so much internal pin/bush wear that the pitch has extended so far the bushes are now "out of time" with the sprocket teeth. We have to find out which it is.
Thank you nige. I'll measure them tonight. Serial number is 20z03774 Here is a link to the machine in February of 2014 just for a little better idea of how the undercarriage looks http:// http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?140227/F7232/showall
Also where exactly do I need to measure to get the correct info for determining the pitch? OK after rereading it, I think I get it now. Not as hard as I making it out to be.
Measure from the centre of one pin to the centre of a pin 4 links away and post the measurement - the track needs to be as tight as you can get it. The measurement will be around 32", but the more accurate the number the better. Do this on both sides of the machine, the numbers will always be slightly different. I know this diagram shows it being measured on the grouser but I prefer to use it on the pin centre, there is usually a small indent right in the centre of the pin you can use as a guide.
Thanks nige! That'll help me a lot. As soon as I get the measurement I'll let you know. Thanks again!
OK I had dad measure it, but I'll check it again tonight. His measurement from center of pin one to center of pin four was 19-1/2" the, but then he only gave two more numbers and they were 13-1/2 and 6-1/4... does any of that sound right? I think I need to go and do it myself...
I think you do need to measure it yourself. I think your old man has measured across 3 sections of the track rather than 4, you should be measuring from the centre of Pin 1 to the centre of Pin 5 to measure 4 links. According to me there are 2 possible options (forget what I said above - looking at the wrong table) for your particular 953. "The Book" is sending me to a 6.91"-pitch track, so for that track 4 sections should measure 27.64" or thereabouts. However there is also a 7.5" pitch track listed in my Undercarriage Guide which would give a measurement of 30" for 4 sections. Now what I'm thinking is 2 possibilities that could produce the symptoms you are seeing on your sprockets. 1. That you have major internal pin/bush wear on 6.91"-pitch track links. 2. That you have sprockets installed on the tractor that are designed for 6.91" pitch track coupled with tracks that are actually 7.5" pitch. After you've done your measurements we'll see which one of the two theories is correct.
Thank you, I hope I'm not being a pain in the a*s I just want this to be right, plus I'm pricing out sprocket segments, and want to get the right stuff.
No problem at all. If you are going out to the machine to do the measurements then have a look at the sprocket segments and see if you can spot the Part Number 6Y-0253 marked on them anywhere. Edit: Looking at the photos you posted regarding the machine how it was when you bought it, unless I'm very much mistaken the sprocket segments on it now are not the ones that were on it when it was sold. The ones in your "as bought" photos are well-worn and have tooth points like razors on them, the "today" photos show something more like new segments, albeit with the tooth tips damaged.
A little history on it. The machine was bought two weeks ago from hart equipment in west plains mo. They are the ones that bought it from purple wave in February. Between the time it was sold and yesterday the machine has 60 hours on it. The guy did tell me I'd need sprockets before long, maybe he knew more then he let in. I will look at the part number and see what I come up with.
OK here's what I got. C to c on 5 pins I came up with 28-1/8 on both sides. My sprockets are (right side) iTm S01052D, (left side) CR4408 ITR. The only markings I could find on my chains were iTm pro5 (or protem5). Also I measured my adjustment rod on both sides(pic included) and came up with 6-3/4". I assume I'm maxed out then?
I would have to check the wear tables again but IIRC 100% internal pin/bush wear for 6.91"-pitch rails is something like 28.3" over 4 link sections, very similar to what you measured. So it looks like you are in for rails & sprocket segments at the very least. That's also probably why you are out of tensioner also.
OK well such is life!! Lol I appreciate the help. I guess I know what I'll be doing the next few days!
As an option to going aftermarket (as the previous owner obviously did) try your local Cat dealer, you may just be pleasantly surprised. Also if you give them the impression they are going to get a sale they will more than likely send someone out to measure the complete undercarriage system and give you a full detailed report on its condition at their expense not yours........
Thanks, nige I hadn't considered that, but you can bet I will! I actually have a couple of good friends that work at cat, one runs the truck part 9th the shop, and the other runs the heavy equipment side, so I'll see if he would care to run out and give me a check over. Thanks again for the help!!
I paid right at 180 a side for segments. I slid one idler forward while replacing the idler with the track split. Slid the other one forward using two ratchet boomers to move the track guide forward ever so gently til the bolts lined up. Good luck John
I was wrong...... 28.35" equates to 120% internal wear aka scrap limit. 28.15" is 100% wear, 28.25" as you measured is 110% wear. So either way those rails are pretty well gone.
I did some calling today, found a set of sprockets (new) with all new nuts and bolts for 190 a side, but shipping is a killer on them. As for the rails, my friend is going to come out and look at the undercarriage this weekend, and let me know what route I need to take. I was really hoping to be able to work this machine for a little bit before I had to sink a bunch of money into it. He did say that he's heard of cheap after market rails stretching pretty bad??? Either way it sounds like I'm going to have to replace those before I get new segments, other wise I'll just keep blowing money because it'll wear them out pretty quick. He also wants to check the rest of the undercarriage out to make sure that the bushings and such aren't junk in the pivot for the adjusters... pretty well just go over it and make a list of things I need. I think once I do that I'll have a machine that will last awhile, until I can step up to a c model. Thanks again guys!!
Nige, it seems you really know your under Carriage info. I am reading and learning lots. Thanks.
No worries. Pulling the data and measurements out of a book isn't hard. You just need the book ......!! Another comment on the rails on the OP's 953. I did a bit of digging and discovered that they are aftermarket Chinese, no more comment required I think.
Nige have you read your book? The only advice you've gave this guy that is right was to call a Cat salesman to do a undercarriage inspection. Bob
Bob, I respectfully suggest you read my post #26 above then comment........
Nige, I suggest you read your track book and learn the difference between sealed tracks and SALT tracks.Since your so clueless I'll give you a hint,your quoting sealed tracks this machine has SALT tracks which don't show internal wear. Good luck Bob
Hey Bob, does that mean when the seals go they still don't wear? I'm going to email Cat and tell them not to bother with track adjusters any more. And thanks from all of us who only kidded ourselves that Nige's advice has been helpful over the years: if it wasn't for your lone voice lifting the veil, I was starting to believe that he knows what he's talking about.
Bluox, seem from my screen you make yourself very happy finding a fault in others, and to be to the point, your an *** Hole from your statements. Overworked
Have any luck with your machine? Do you think they're an honest company to buy equip from? I just purchased a 89 20z from them & have the same prob.
Nige,I am currently picking my way through a hi drive u/c as and when.My days of complete overhauls for tractors are over as I only do a little bit these days.My frontline tractors were allways Cat or Berco which I was happy with.In later years I used ITR on the D8's and DCR (Korea) on the D5H because 'I was pretty much retired',however after 4 years of 'retirement on the D5H' it has clocked up about 1200 hours and the chaines are scrap.It's my fault and I have no sympathy for myself but I am slowly replacing track componants between little hires and have been buying an Italian brand from ITM tracks at Cannock.They begin with the letter 'V' (I should check the invoice' and I was wondering if you or anybody else had heard of them as I will be going the way of chaines and segments next.I don't want to pay for Cat (as the bloody machine is supposed to be retired!) but I am happy to pay for a more middle of the road u/c.This tractor is pretty much finished with batters and has a steady old driver on it.Any suggestions lads?
Mx814, I've put about 400 hours on it, and aside from the uc issue it's been a pretty good machine I guess. I think if I were to buy another one from them, I'd do a lot better job checking it out... I was just looking tonight and seen they have a 953 LGP for sale that was there a year ago when I bought mine, but the price has went up and uc gone down. I'm going to run mine another year and clean it up and sell it, or trade it for a c model. How's yours doing?