Can someone with a 780D that doesn't mind answering a few (maybe dumb) questions email me? I recently purchased one and am waiting for my service manual to show up but have a few questions in the mean time. Thanks
Welcome to HEF @780D Don't be shy, ask away! That's the whole idea of the forum.
Welcome ...789D Ask away. No one will hold it against you. We are here to help.
Ok, you asked for it... Where can I find the shutoff solenoid and shouldn't I hear it click when the key goes to the on position? Should I bleed a few cylinders at a time or all of them together? I don't see a bleed screw on the injector pump. Can I just bleed it from the inlet line fitting? Oh, I just purchased the machine and it's been sitting a few years. I replaced both fuel filters and pulled a fuel sample. The fuel looked surprisingly good so I added 5 gal of fresh diesel and 2 new batteries. It will fire on either just fine but won't stay running on it's own. Any bleeding tips would be really appreciated. Thanks
Loosen the lines at the injectors and spin it over until you get fuel and no air. That is the place to start. Let us know what happens. We can go from there.
The machine is a ways away and I've been by myself so I cracked 2 lines at a time and turned it over for about 5-8 seconds then jumped down and closed those fitting and opened the next two and so on. Do you think it syphons air back in during the time it takes me to get down and close those lines? Should I crack all the lines at once and turn it over for 20 seconds or so? Would it still fire on either if the shutoff solenoid wasn't working? I know I'm just reaching and it's almost surely air in the system but you know how the mind works.
Welcome to HEF, 780D ! Is the transfer pump filling the fuel filters ? They have to be full. The fuel shut-off solenoid is on top of the injector pump. Can you hear it clicking when turning the key on and off ? There is a screen in the fuel tank. The shut-off valve screws into it. Then the screen is screwed into the tank. The screen (#1) may be plugged. Notice the drain petcock #2. It should be opened on a regular basis because the screen allows a puddle of crap to accumulate in the bottom of the tank.
Thank you! I filled the filters with fuel when I replaced them and then I pumped the primer about a million times but I guess I don't really know if that lift pump is working. I can't hear anything clicking when I turn the key on so I'll check out the shut-off solenoid now that I know where to find it. Also, that screen in the fuel tank sounds like a possible problem so I'll check that as well. More to follow...
Check the wire on the solenoid for 12 volts with the ignition switch on. To clear the screen temporarily you can blow compressed air into the full tank. Unhook the fuel line on the inlet side of the lift pump to blow the air in. Remove the tank filler cap before doing it.
Sometimes the lift pump is 'on cam' & won't pump fuel. Give the engine a momentary flick on the starter to reposition the camshaft & try the primer again, you should feel resistance on the lever. Like @Tinkerer says, the shut off solenoid is located at the rear of the injector pump, facing skywards - make sure it has system voltage when the ignition is on. To prime the injector pump - with ignition ON - loosen the 17mm banjo bolt on the injector pump top cover & use the hand primer till air has gone. Then crank the engine with as many injector delivery lines as you can easily get to, loosened - till you get a good squirt coming from them - then tighten. Then it should start. Hopefully there was no algae or water in the system to plug things up......
It's ether not either but shouldn't require it in warm weather and too much can cause serious damage.
Thank you for all the great advice. Tinkerer, that schematic helped a lot. I did pull the fuel line off the lift pump and drained a quart of fuel. It looked surprisingly good so I just added 5 gallons of fresh fuel. The fan wasn't turning with the starter engaged and it turned out to be a seized up alternator so I'm waiting for that and a new belt to come in before I head back to the machine for another attempt to get it started. The new fuel filter that I bought came with a separate small (about 1 inch) gasket but the one that I removed didn't have that gasket installed. I'm assuming that's for another application??
that's embarrassing, thanks.
Alrman, is the banjo bolt you're talking about on the right side of the injector pimp in this pic. I was bleeding from that inlet line fitting on the left and hadn't thought about having the key in the on position. Thanks
Yep, that's the return line. Remember, with ignition ON PS - You'd better give the ol' girl a bath when you get her home!
Is that the shut-off solenoid jut to the right and below that return line? I should hear or feel it clicking when turning on the ignition??
Correct - you will hear it if you are close to it. She's a beast!
Yes she is. Thanks for all of the help. I think you guys have me on the right track now.
The "1 inch gasket" is an O Ring. It has a square profile unlike a normal O Ring. It is #4 and it does belong in the assembly. They are commonly only used in fuel filters.
Well, it's time for an update. I finally got back down to the machine last weekend and took some helpers with me. We started with the easiest and maybe the most obvious culprit, the fuel shut-off solenoid. I hadn't heard it clicking before and now with the help of extra bodies, sure enough, we couldn't hear or feel it doing anything. So, we tested for voltage and...nada. We got a jumper wire and ran it from the battery to the solenoid and it would click when voltage was applied. So, we decided to bleed 4 of the easiest to reach injectors one more time before trying a start. After tightening the injector lines I cranked it over and she fired right up. She spit out the remnants of a few bees nests but after that the exhaust was clean and it ran, and idled great. I just ran it for a minute or so because I want to change out the hydraulic fluid and filter before running any of the controls and taking it home. Do you guys have any recommendations on affordable fluid. It takes 19 gallons so I need to shop around for a decent deal. I don't have a Case dealer locally but all of the usual parts stores are in the area. I'll start on some of the other recommendations above after I get it home. First will be draining the fuel tank to see what kind of crap I have in there. Thanks for all of the great advice and I'm sure I'll have more questions ahead.
Yeah, If you buy what's needed, its gonna be expensive. These machines seem to be fluid sensitive in some systems. Much better to buy expensive fluid than to buy hydraulic or transmission parts.
If you're thinking that you going to run the new oil just a short time, just to get it home, then go with something inexpensive, NOT CHEAP lol. But if you're going to leave it in the machine then bite the bullet and go for Hy-tran
I was at the case dealer for some hydraulic fluid for my 580c. I was about to get case Hytran fluid, however the the person there said they have “UTF” that was the same fluid for considerably less than the case brand. I believe it was made by valvoline or citgo but met case specs.
So, it's time to start working on my 780 now that work has slowed. I have about 3,719 hydraulic leaks but the most critical is at the steering cylinders since that's the low point in the system Has anyone tackled this? Can it be done on the machine? Also, I have at least 5 cylinders that need repacking. Is there a plug kit that you'd recommend so that I can pull 3-4 cylinders at a time and not dump all of my fluid?
The steering cylinders can usually be resealed on the machine. You don't need any plugs. If the cylinder control lever is in the neutral position you will only lose the oil in the cylinder barrel. Remove both hoses so that you can pull the rod out of the cylinder.