had new head gaskets put on my 320B excavator, heads were redone by engine shop they started it up and was leaking antifreeze right away from all cylinders some you could see tiny bubbles others were wet,on the front of engine was couple spots leaking. torque was 87pds so they re torqued it to 92 then it ran about 5 min. then same thing.They used after market gaskets could that be it i told them should have used cat gaskets.the reason it was done cause one head was seeping so thought might as well do both.
Make sure the head gaskets are on the the right way do all the water ports line up
I got a local shop doing it and they said they were the right ones but jobber gaskets.
Which engine do you have? If it is a 3066 has that shop ever rebuilt one? Bob
3066 not a 3066 they have but other ones they have cat cummins etc.about half dozen i think.
What all did they do? Bob
got heads checked and planed, injectors valve guides
owner of shop figures liner moved but i thought would it leak at all 6 pistons
These engines use a dry liner so the liner won't leak and leaking head gaskets are a common problem. Usually the block will be low causing a leak . Not many shops will have good luck fixing them. I have been involved with a couple of shop over hauls that were disasters because the shops don't know these motors. Good luck Bob
Not sure what you mean by block being low or disasters in the shop i have repair manuals for the engine.thanks anyway
He means that the BLOCK can be warped & that the overhaul turned into a mess{disaster}.. because the shop has never done this specific engine before.. there must be something/tricks that experienced rebuilders on THIS engine need to know..???
He means the top of the engine block is not flat. Now that the head has been machined, it is pretty much perfectly flat. But, it does not match the top of the block, which is not flat. There is no easy fix for this. The engine has to come out and be machined. I don't know this engine specifically, but I'm sure the liners will have to be pulled as well. At that point you're doing a complete rebuild. It sounds like the "trick" is knowing that these engines overheat badly, or the castings were made poorly, and experienced rebuilders either avoid them entirely, or just count on a complete out of frame rebuild at the first sign of trouble. I believe that would be a Mitsubishi engine.
Ok thanks i know just one head had a seep so thought well might as well do both but leaking all around now.
Did you ever change the gasket to OEM??
First time that since ive owned it that work was done on engine and now that heads have to come back off i will get them to use oem gaskets they had use after market gaskets.And about the block being warped it is a 2 piece head but still possible i guess.
I wonder if the book says lube the bolts and they installed them dry? That makes a HUGE difference in clamping force of the bolt dont remember doing head gaskets on one of those engines though. I've never had a head gasket not seal. Are you sure they cleaned the block good? It just sounds like shoddy craftsmanship to me.
Not sure if it does or not but I took it home just learned I go for surgery so when I get back on my feet I'll post what I find
Okay put excavator in shop did coolant pressure test pumped to 12 psi dropped 1/2 psi in 2 hrs. so what i am thinking is when they oiled head bolts which the book does state when engine starts heating up the oil gets hot that is what was bubbling out the side.