I apologize if this has been covered - I've used the search function(s) to no avail. Here's my story: I am a total newb when it comes to TLB knowledge other than what I've gleaned from my research mostly here. I've been looking at backhoes since about 2012 - as evidenced by my first post on this forum when I first got the bug. I'm looking at purchasing a New Holland TLB from a private owner selling the TLB for his dad. His dad told him it's a 98. The meter reads 7,300 and change. A serial number plate on the inside of the cab (image attached) offers some insight, but after some research I'm assuming this plate is for the cab and not the TLB. The gentleman selling the TLB is as forthcoming as can be - not being evasive or hiding anything, so I trust him. There are no decals to be found on the boom or engine side panels, but looking at images of same year models, that doesn't seem to be unusual. So that's where I am at this point in my search. Any info I get, I will gladly share with the seller as I am certain he would appreciate knowing more about what he's selling. Thanks in advance for your help and I' apologize for the lengthy post.
You are correct, the SN in your pic is strictly the cab. If it is a 555E, here is the info about the SN: View attachment upload_2023-2-20_9-16-25.png
Thanks for the quick response. Very much appreciated.
Since he doesn’t know a lot about the machine I would call the local highway patrol or sheriffs office to make sure it’s not stolen.
Also, Swetz’s picture was good. My 555e has a placard on the passenger side right by the loader arm and it’s stamped clear as day on the frame rail. You just have to take off the engine cover to see it.
Hmmm...never really thought about that. Thanks.
I’m a firm believer in doing as much as cover your butt as possible. My machine was sold with a bill of sale, I’m assuming that machinery doesn’t have titles (maybe the new stuff does) but never hurts to ask. I rather be let down on the phone with a cop vs plop down 20k of my hard earned money to find out 6 months from now it was stolen and I lose it all.
Finally got the serial number from the TLB I am looking at. Not sure what can be found out about it, but here it is. If anyone has any info or where I could go to do more research, I'd be grateful. Number: 031003972 Again, supposed to be a 98 New Holland. Thanks in advance.
In my experience S/N with this machine doesn’t mean as much as it does with others. I think I’ve only used it one time and that was because of the break in the operators manual. One manual was for a certain number and below and the other was for the rest. I bought my machine in 2019 and this forum has been a great help for me. If you have any specific issues they seemed to get answered fairly quickly or at least advice is given on where to start.
Hey Cosmaar1, Thanks for checking back. I've spent the better part of today just looking up every 98 New Holland TLB I could find using google and checking the SNs and comparing equipment levels, etc, to see if there were any correlations or patterns in the numbers. Sadly I could not - except for the first four digits. All the 98s have the same first four numbers and were either 555E or 655E. The next 5 digits offered no clue. Anyway, I'll keep diggin and post back if I find anything.
What exactly are you looking for? Specific options or something?
The short answer is that I was hoping that with the S/N I could at least make sure the Backhoe is what the gentleman says it is. The long-winded answer is that I'm kinda like you in that I try to find out as much as I can about something I plan to buy -- especially when it is in the 16K range. And I'm really ignorant when it comes to TLBs. I've been looking at them for a long while now and am this close >< to buying one that has all the features I want, plus, it's 3-miles from my home. With cars and trucks, the VIN or serial number tells you everything you need to know. I'm finding that is not the case with TLBs at least when it comes to Ford/New Holland. I've got the specs pages from TractorData, so I know all the basic stuff. The person selling it has told me as much as he knows about it's running condition - good and bad, but is light on it's history beyond the two years he's owned it. So I guess maybe I'm chasing windmills. Anyway thanks for taking the time to respond. R
rumblecloud, I do not think you are going to get much from the serial number in regards to what you are buying. The NH SNs will, however, help with correct parts as they did make some SN based changes. My tractor was manufactured in 1999, and the number you posted is lower so perhaps an earlier model. That said, they are pretty much all the same externally. You can tell some things by knowing the tractor, such as they type of trans it was equipped with, and if it had the emission engine, by looking at the fuel filter. I personally think your best bet would be to look an an operators manual as it will point out all the options, and how to operate. About the E series backhoe....They are fine units that are very capable, but parts can be a pain. Know that the E series was really the last Ford tractor that was rebadged when New Holland took over Ford. I think (my opinion) this may be why they have a tough time with parts. So, if you are willing to deal with that aspect, then if the condition and price are to your liking, go for it. In my neck of the woods, NH is not the most desirable machine, John Deere is, so, I turned that into a plus and got a great low hour machine for a great price. If I would have bought the same machine in JD it prolly would have been 10k more in my area. OEM Operators manuals are available in PDF format all over the web for around $25. To me, this is a worthwhile investment. When I was on my search for a machine, I purchased the manuals for each machine that was on my short list prior to looking at the machine. For me, it was well worth the investment to know what to look for on the machine, and then you have it when you do buy it. Many here also advocate having the machine inspected by a pro prior to purchase. This is a good option for someone who will is not mechanically inclined. If you will be the one maintaining the unit, you do not have to worry to much about a local dealer as Messicks will ship NH parts, and they are an outstanding dealer. If you will have the dealer work on your machine, find out if your local NH dealer is worth a hoot, if not, cross them off the list. Finally, I understand it is a huge outlay of cash, but you need to understand upfront that no matter what machine, or brand you purchase, I will need an initial outlay of cash to get it where you want it. If that is not ok, you need new, which prolly isn't feasible. I just wend back and reread some for your posts. From them, it looks like you are unsure of the model. If you call Messicks with SN they can tell you the model from the SN. Know this tho, the 555E - 675E are not much different. Some little differences like horsepower, turbo/non turbo, hydraulic pressures, which changes lifting capacity, but overall just about the same machines. Hopefully this is good info for you.
Hey thanks Swetz! Absolutely is good info for me. It also reinforced some things. Around here (48022) JD is most desirable as well - but, as you mentioned, it comes with a higher price. What I've found through my searches in the Michigan thumb area, Iron Planet, Ritchie Bros, etc., is that most of the machines with the equipment I want run in the 18-25K range (4WD, extendahoe, cab, decent tires). Add shipping or trailering and it can get a little pricey. Which is okay to a point. This one as I mentioned, is right down the street and has everything I want. I find it quite ironic that for the length of time I've been looking to finally find one right under under my nose Is it prefect, absolutely not. One front cylinder is leaking and a few of the hoses will need to be replaced eventually. Front windshield is cracked and the seat needs to be recovered. Tires are decent. Controls aren't sloppy. Newer battery, alternator and starter -- All-in-all it seems to be a pretty decent machine. Fortunately, I can turn a wrench and am not afraid to do so -- it's the only way I can afford to go and it is half the fun of owning a piece of equipment like a hoe or tractor, car or truck I can get it for 16K and drive it home....all I need is get the approval from the CFO (that's proving to be more difficult than I thought I do have a contact who appraises construction machinery and comes highly recommended. He'll charge $100-200 to inspect it and well worth the added expense. Sorry for rambling. Name is Randy (screen name seems a bit much at this point). Thank you again for your input and for the Messicks reference. I'll keep posting my progress.
I agree 100% with what Swetz said and he beat me to the punch. The S/N isn’t a VIN like a car, at least on this machine. Your S/N is about 13000 away from mine so id say it was a 555e, but could be wrong. Look over the machine. 99% of it is identifiable if you know much about backhoes which it seems like you do. I got super lucky and bought my machine with 3900 hrs for around 13.5k back in 2019. I think I got it so cheap bc the owner thought there were issues with it but we knew better. I’ve probably put about 3k in it since with hose changes, fluid changes, 3 new tires, and so on. But overall the machine has probably saved me thousands of dollars just in rental costs so far. Long story short, if it has options you want and it looks good, buy it. I looked for 2 years for a machine before I bought it. It had everything I wanted except for the extenda boom and hydraulic thumb. But I made my own manual thumb and can live without the extenda boom (although it would be nice at times). You are lucky that the machine is a few miles down the road. This gives you the opportunity to look at it, run it for 30 minutes and get it hot. Lift it up in the stabilizers and lift the front end with the bucket. Run through the gears, forward and reverse, 4x4, etc. Again make sure it’s hot!!! A lot of things change when it’s working for a while.
If you end up buying it, PM me your email address. I will send you a few things so save you a couple hundred bucks.
I belong to several forums And you guys are a perfect example of why I love them so much. I can't tell you how many times I have been helped - and returned the favor when I could. I'll be around and update my situation. Thank you.
Your serial number is lower than mine and according to the guy I emailed at Alma Tractor in Arkansas mine was built April 16, 1998 and went in service on January 4, 1999. I think any New Holland Dealer can access that info with your serial number. The guy I emailed at Alma Tractor was awesome. You could try calling their parts department and ask? 479.632.6300
There's a local NH dealer here I can try. I also emailed Messick's yesterday so hopefully I'll get a response in a day or two. Thanks for the info.
Well... this ship sailed and unfortunately I was not on it. The CFO of my company (read: the wife) couldn't wrap her head around the idea of spending 16K on a backhoe and it was sold yesterday. Needless to say I am EXTREMELY disappointed. So the search continues.
sucks, but just wasn't meant to be. You will get on the ship yet! Thanks for the info!
Still alive and slowly recovering. Kind of scratching around a bit and am looking at a 1995 JCB 215 II. The vin is: SLP215TCSE0438136 but of course I can't find any info on it. Tried Equipment Watch, but there's way more there than I need. Found a couple of others, but could not get any additional info. Can anyone offer any additional pointers or opinions? FYI, here's the link to the unit I am checking out: JCB 215 II Thanks a bunch. Sorry if this is in the wrong spot, but I wanted to keep my stuff together.
Personally speaking I would not buy it. It’s been repainted and God only knows what was covered up. Yes the hours are low, but the machine is also 28 years old. I’m not a JCB person but the controls look to be fun. My 555E is a 2 stick and this looks to be 4.
Hey Cosmaar1 - thanks for the feedback. Yes, I noticed the repaint - covers a lot of sins. I haven't been to see it in person, but maybe tomorrow. I've asked for history and matching papers. So we'll see. I do like the simpler stick set-up as well. Thank you again for the honest opinion - it does make a difference.
I'm reluctant to even post this, but here goes... Ford/NH 555E Drove it around the lot. Lifted it. Seems pretty tight. They are holding it for me.
Have any good pics? Why are you reluctant to post?
You know...I didn't really take any pics because there are 29 images on their site. I suppose I should have highlighted the link in the last post -- the Ford/NH 555E is clickable - I'll be heading out there prolly on Monday and take some shots. I'm reluctant b-cuz I'm a little gun-shy. If I keep posting about what I'm looking at I'm afraid I'll wear out my welcome
Looks like a clean machine. Rear bucket is really small at 12". Tires are not great, but ok. No extend-a-hoe is a negative to me. Price seems a bit high, but I have not looked in the market in your area. Front forks are a big plus for moving stuff around. BTW - I didn't know that was a link...lol You will not wear out your welcome. All the members on here love the machines and never get tired of them. The NH machines are good solid machines. It is the parts end that drives us all crazy. If you can deal with that, you will not be sorry for purchasing one.
Thank you very much for your response, advice and assurance. I'll keep you all posted and try not to get beside myself with excitement. This is a big deal for me personally - it's a big expenditure. I know I am not the only one who has gone through this. I wonder if I really need this or if it's just that I want it. I could just as easily pay someone to do the things I want done, but then I'm on their timeline and having to deal with the quality of the work. Thanks again. R
People buy things every day that they dont REALLY need...boats come to mind. If you worked for the money and have always wanted one, I feel like you should buy a tractor...that is how I convinced myself to buy one... You will be amazed at the work you can do with it.
Open the toolbox lid and look to make sure that it has not rotted thru into the hydraulic tank. Members on here have had this happen, and it creates a pain to fix. Something looks fishy about the lid in the pic.
Sometimes you have to fire company officers.
I did pop the lid, but didn't even make that connection. I remember it was dirty/kinda rusty with one wrench in it, but I'll give it a much closure look. Thanks
That can get expensive...could even cost a toy or 2
If the boss wasn't happy about 16k she should be just tickled to death about 25k.
Looks pretty clean or somebody did a detailed repaint on it. Ad didn't mention air conditioning. These cabs are a glass oven. Price seems high to me for the condition of the tires and especially high if no AC. Check that tool box over good. Mine was rusty inside but no holes yet. I cleaned it out good and sprayed rubberized undercoat on mine then painted over that. I keep mine in a barn these days so no worries for me about getting water in to rust. Make sure the drain holes remain open. There is a drain hole in the front and rear of the tool box. No AC would be a deal killer for me at any price.
Mine is a 98 so it’s almost identical. It’s definitely been repainted. I can tell because the rear fender flares should be faded gray not yellow. The tires are shot and you will need 4 new ones all around. Figure 2k for those. You will need a new bucket, that 12 inch one won’t do anything for you. If you know how to weld and can fabricate things you can find a cheap bucket and make it fit the dipper. If not figure another 1k for a bucket that matches your pins. My toolbox completely rotted out to the point i had water in my hydraulic fluid. That cost me about $750 in fluid to clean it out and that’s when I could buy fluid for $35 a pail. Now you would be looking at 1500 or so. Also figure in the shipping costs to get it to your house. Don’t know how far you are away so can’t estimate. The hours are similar to what I bought mine for. I think mine was 3800 or so. I paid 13,500 for it……. Granted that was in 2019. I wouldn’t touch this one for 25k even with the hours that low. Sorry just my 2c.
When you say drove it around the lot, lifted it.. what does that mean? You need to run that thing for 30 minutes. Put the stabilizers down, see if the front bucket pushes up the machine. Lift the front bucket off the ground, push the machine up with the boom. Get that thing real nice and hot. Get all 4 tires off the ground and run through the gears. Make sure the shuttle shift works and 4 wheel drive. This one should have a rear diff lock. Make sure it engages and disengages. The reason I think mine was so cheap is bc the guy thought the transmission or 4x4 was going out. The rear differential was stuck and it wouldn’t turn. My dad went under the machine, popped it out and it worked fine after. We didn’t tell the guy about our findings I just bought it!
I paid $25k for my 675E with ~700 hours just before the pandemic kicked in. I have been looking to purchase an excavator and the prices on the size and condition I have been looking at has increased $20k in the last couple of years. Needless to say, I haven't pulled the trigger yet. The reason I mention this is that we paid pre covid prices for our machines. I don't know the backhoe market now, but our prices aren't the prices in the market today. Cosmaar1 makes some good points about working the machine prior to purchase. The seller may know some problems that don't happen until it is warm, and you would never know. The above stated, no matter what machine you buy, you will spend money to make initial improvements and repairs. In my case, I had to repack all of the cylinders. My machine sat in a building for over 10 years. I guess this caused the seals to dry out. When I purchased it, they were not leaking....a month later, they were.
I'll try to answer each response. First, thanks for all your replies...they do help and there is no need for apologies. I can tell some areas have been repainted, but where it has, I don't think it's covering any serious structural damage. More like it's touch-up stuff. I'll give it a closer look today. Yes absolutely on the tires. If I didn't know better, I would say these are the originals. Lots of cuts and it looks like rot - like it's been sitting for awhile. They quoted me on tires: 700 each for the rear and 299 each for the front. Delivery is free ...well...for the price, maybe "included" is a better term . It's about 40 google miles. I'm not really a fan of the small bucket either. When I drove it around the lot I mean 1st. 2nd and 3rd. Reverse in 1st only. Shuttle shift worked well. No problems with gear changes. All told, the machine ran for about 45 minutes before we lifted it using the method you described and did a crab/sideways move using the rear bucket. It does have a diff lock. My thinking now is throw in new tires and a 24 inch rear bucket and we can talk. Wish me luck. And once again, thanks. r
At the price, new tires and a bucket, may make it a decent deal. Here is an example of a bucket. Actually the one that is on my machine oem new holland...almost 2k shipped to my house, and another 2k for the tires. New Holland 24" Backhoe Bucket (New OEM) -- 47530422 New Holland 24" Backhoe Bucket 555E, 675E, 575E, LB75, LB75B, LB90, LB90B, LB110, LB110B, B110, B110B, B90B, B95, B95B, B95C -- 47530422 www.brokentractor.com
Good work. Make sure you also pay close attention to the hoses. Each one you will need to replace figure 150 average. Also don’t forget to check the fluid levels… transmission, engine, coolant, front hubs, rear diff, front diff, hydraulic, I think that’s all. That will tell a story when hot. You didn’t mention specifically and I know you ran through some gears on the ground, but I definitely would Jack it up as I mentioned above and run through everything including 4wd. Good luck on the purchase! I can share all the manuals the kind people on this site have shared with me over the years.
Don't forget to check the 4WD. And still, NO AC!
Ohio (where I'm from) and Michigan (where he is from), we don't need no stinkin A/C! You sissies down in Florida might need it but not us!!! JUST KIDDING!!!
We don't need no stinkin' A/C, but heat is really nice when it's single digits out there and 30 mph winds while pushing 2 ft. of snow around.
Don't have time to post now, but short version is I am going to go ahead and make the purchase tomorrow if everything goes well. Will post more later when I get the chance. Everytone have a safe Easter.
Looks like somebody else did the rubberized undercoating treatment like I did, albeit a sloppy job of it.
Yes I was trying to post some pics of it along with some others, but time is getting the best of me. Later.
WELL, all my window latches are broken or missing so all my windows are tied closed. I can be working on a sunny 65 day and the cab will heat up enough to run the AC. I DO like staying cool.
Short answer is I am going tomorrow to complete the purchase. As for the lack of AC ---- sometimes maybe, but that is said without ever having to work in an enclosed cab. So maybe the simpler solution is to ... "I went to the doctor and said "Doc, it hurts when I do this." He said "Don't do that." I am excited yet nervous about it -- I am certain you all understand this. More pics tomorrow.
A/C in Florida is a must, up north it is nice but when it is too hot to do stuff outside I usually do indoor projects. We get maybe 1-2 weeks of crazy hot and 2 months of above 80. Someone mentioned $150 for a hose. I guess I got luck because there is a shop I use that makes all kinds of hoses. They do firehose, huge stuff like 12' in diameter. Big industrial place. I had 4 long hoses made, maybe 4 feet, for my Cat 426 and he charged me $100 for all 4. Cash of course. When he said "I need $100 for these". I said "I will be right back I only have $300 on me". He laughed and said "$100 total not each.". I gave him $120 and told him to get lunch on me.
"And then I ordered every other hyd. hose possible for my machine" would be my only response. Kudos for greasing the "hose technician" that kind of gratitude will serve you well on the next order.
I replaced my hoses as I rebuilt each cylinder. This was not my first trip. There are a handful under the machine I have not replaced but they are still in good shape so I may leave them. He uses name brand hose. Lots of guys use him for hoses.
Well, today is the day. Nervous. A few things: I know hoses are going to need replacing as they blow or as a preventative measure. No issues with that. There are a couple of hydraulic shops in the area. @cosmaar1 One thing I am not up on is the Diff lock. It does have one as I think Cosmaar mentioned. It does not function. Stuck in the up position. I was told by the sales person ( I don't like to use that description for this guy b-cuz that has a kind of negative tone to it) He's more of an operator/mechanic person. I trust him) that he has never used them as they tend to diminish your steering/maneuverability. My question is are repairs to this difficult and what are the negatives -- how bad can it be? I know, really broad question. Other than the Diff lock, the machine runs great. I had it out in their dig yard for about an hour on Saturday just getting more familiar with it. All the controls work well. Hydraulics are smooth. No leaking cylinders. Seriously cannot find anything else wrong with - well little things that you would expect from a 26 year old machine designed to do what it does. Anyway, thank you all for your advice and help on this. You have no idea how much it has helped. R Forgot to mention it has a 30 day return for trade or refund.
The differential lock is nice to have when needed. But, it can and will damage the differential if it is accidentally engaged when the tractor is on a hard surface. I worked for a contractor and he had all the differential lock pedals welded in the unlock position.
In my experience, which is limited, is that the linkage tends to freeze up. The repair, if it is linkage related is on the easy side. The actual locking devise is in an axle housing. If there is an issue in there, it is a big deal. Again, I have seen the linkage seize from not being used. As to actually using it...I have used it and it has gotten me out of a jam more than once. It is not something you leave on...you press the lock when 1 rear tire is spinning, then let off as soon as you are moving. Using it like this, it will not really affect your steering. If it were left on, you couldn't steer, as both tires push you forward. It is good to be nervous when plunking down a bunch of cash!!
4WD is way more important than the diff lock. I think I might have used my diff lock twice in 7 years. I often turn on the 4WD.
Ahhhhh.....I have a diff lock on my Ford 5000. I get it now. I have used it on the tractor from time to time. I feel a little better about it now. R
Thought I posted that before I left.... Well...it's mine now. Delivery later today or tomorrow.
Congrats...wee need pics and updates
Hey Swetz...Thanks. It's on the way as we speak. will post pics later tonight after I'm done luvin' on it
When I bought mine the diff lock was stuck in the engaged position and my dad said it was very difficult to steer and drive. In the 4 years I’ve owned it, I have never used it. To be honest after my dad got it disengaged, we never did go back and actually fix it.
Arrived at 2:40 this afternoon. Yes, it still has the small bucket. Will look for a bigger 2-footer if my wife lets me keep it. Everything is still so wet I can't get out to dig the trenches needed to help drain the swamp. That's one of the reasons I don't mind the smaller bucket.
The small bucket should work well for digging stumps too.
Atta boy, hope you enjoy your new machine. Happy digging and let's hope you have a comfy couch.
Great, glad it worked out...lots of luck with it!!
Pm me your email address and I will send you the manuals.