The tractors weeps a little from the stablizers but this drip off the backhoe valve is my main leak. It only leaks from the bottom cap and not on top where the valve moves..what is this peice and is there a way i can take that cap nut off and just replace an oring? Or am im gonna be left with a handful of parts that go flying? Lol..i troed to get a decent picture but cant really get my phone in there. This backhoe has proven to be pretty handy and reilable other than a few small problems so far. Thanks for any help or input!
Those cartridges are probably the port reliefs. There are a few orings in each one
I dont want to change pressure so if i leave the cap on and unthread it from the valve body to change oring and clean then i should be fine? I will look at a parts diagram before i take it off to make sure im not doing more harm than good.
Its number 4 that has the leak..doesnt even look like there is an oring in there?
Yes, clean it first so you know exactly where it's leaking. There are a few o rings in there, the outer one is the only one that will leak EXTERNALLY. Unless it's leaking around the cap.
Item #5 in your parts diagram is listed as a gasket. In the service manual that part is defined as the lift cylinder rod end direct acting relief valve. The part illustration seems to show some orings but they don't list them in the parts diagram. Looks like if you unscrew it you will need to capture the actual valve and spring to keep it from getting away from you. The bottom cap just covers the adjustment screw. As long as you don't move that your pressure adjustment should remain the same.
Ah makes sence. That number four is the one that is wet. Didnt realize 5 was a gasket..im probably gonna need one of them if i open? I can order most parts from local case dealer but markup is insane.. So as long as i catch everything and out it back in in order i should be ok then? I wont be doing it till it warms up outside so i have time on my side.
If i am getting a steady leak from that valve im guessing the oring by number 2 is pooched? Is there anything special about these orings? Can i use orings from my univeral kit to fix this? Thanks
Never had one apart. My only concern would be how much spring pressure it has and if it would be relaxed by the time you get to the final thread. Try reading around that page 8-65 in the service manual and see if it gives any instructions for disassembly. You might need to back off on the adjustment screw and count the turns since it appears to have more threads than the valve assembly. I imagine it's pretty stout with a setting of 4600 PSI. With no part numbers available on the o-rings it's impossible to say what durometer or diameter they are. I would just try to match them up and use whatever I had that looked similar.
Thats a good point about the spring tension nh575e. I unfortunitly dont have the service manual but may be able to talk to a case tech and see what they think.
I would not mess with the relief valves . I've taken a no. of these apart in the past by removing from the valve body ( first clean , clean) then on a clean bench take and clean everything inside replace any 0 rings reassemble and install. I did this trial and error with 0 rings out of my kit and never had a failure so it can't be to difficult. If a spring or something pops out and you didn't see where it goes very carefully take another one apart for reference. Hope this helps and those with more knowledge please correct it when I give poor advice.
Sometimes O rings in those valves do not have the normal round profile. I don't mean the OD either. I have seen some that have a square profile. Be very careful that you use OEM O rings in those valves. NO HARDWARE STORE variety.
Yes, Ford NewHolland backhoes used a lot of Husco valves. I dont know if it's a Ford or Husco request but they used some odd sizes
Hmm..that kinda sucks..any idea where i can get the orings? Without a part number the case dealer wont be able to help me..they are a dealer for new holland parts around here but i usually always have a part number for them to search.
Measure what you have
Case is now CNH. Any dealer should be able to fix you up. That includes CNH Agricultural dealers. You could call Dale Wiess. The man is uncanny when it comes to OEM and aftermarket parts. He sends me parts by priority mail and I have them in 3 days. http://e-backhoeparts.com/
Thanks for the link Tinkerer. I will check it out. Can anybody confrim that these releif valves can come out without changeing the setting screw? Thanks
99%sure you can do what you need without adjusting the relief setting. The 'conceptual" drawing in post #6, 8-65 shows how the cartridge valve functions and sort of how it's constructed. I bet there's two o rings there.
That is good news...i really dont wanna mess with the settings cause every function works good..it just drips..constantly..lol
Check with Pattersons sales and service in Miramichi. They don't sell Newholland, but after Bremnar farms closed, Bob Bremnar who sold parts for newholland for years went to pattersons. I am not sure if he is still there or retired, but I think that is where we still get our NH stuff. We have 3 backhoes and a 450 excavator. there are still a few loaders, excavators,backhoes and a few dozers here on the river. Bremnars sold a lot of stuff around here. Those guys get there stuff somewhere. Not sure where in NB you are, but besides Tracadie I don't know of any more dealers
Funny you mentioned that as i belive their is a bremnar farm sticker on my backhoe!
Leon Bremnar sold a ton of farm and construction machinery. he always gave great service. Even when your warranty was done he was great. I know different times that he would send out extra machines to help farmers with their hay. turns out that there were too many backdoor deals, and he lost everything, and a few guys lost their tractors. His brother Bob worked in the stockroom and went with Pattersons sales and service. Not sure if he is still there, but we always got our NH stuff there. Might be worth a check
I will repeat that I have never had one apart. That said, I have to trust the illustration depiction in the manual as I see it until I know otherwise. Figure 8-138 clearly shows where the body threads are. The blue area is defined as an oil galley containing exhaust oil if the valve was overcome with pressure. It looks to me like the poppet valve #2 and seat #1 are NOT contained by the body in any way. If I am interpreting the illustration correctly the poppet valve and it's spring will come out when the body is unscrewed. The seat #1 is also subject to fall out. Whether or not it will come out with force or the threads are long enough to relieve all the spring pressure remains to be seen. It may be obvious when the body is loosened. If it is self contained it should turn easily after one full turn. If at that time you feel spring pressure I would advise against unscrewing it without backing off on the adjustment. As long as you count the number of turns the adjustment screw requires to relieve spring tension you should be able to get it back where it belongs. Toxic, You can do what you want but the way I would approach is to loosen the body. If I felt any spring tension I would tighten it back, remove the cap, and back off on the adjustment several half turns. You should be able to feel when the spring tension is released but I would proceed with caution. There is no guarantee it won't have pressure all the way to the end of the threads. Either way, expect the valve poppet and spring to come out. I would hold a rag around it as I unscrewed any part of it to try and capture the parts. #5 in the parts diagram is listed as a gasket, part number 9968509 @ $12 to $20 depending on which dealer you ask. It might be something special or a plain ol o-ring. I personally wouldn't buy one until I took the assembly out and looked at it. I have boxes of o-rings and I am not squeamish about replacing a square with a round if it looks like it will compress and seal. As long as you use an o-ring with the right durometer for sealing hydraulics you should be good. It's not hard to see if it will be too large or small in diameter to seal properly. It doesn't look like too big of a deal. A little caution and common sense should make this an easy fix.
Very interested in how you come out with this. I just bought a 310SE which also has the Husco backhoe valve body similar to yours. I had a very leaky stabilizer cylinder with a bent rod which was causing a bad leak. Got that fixed and now my second leak which isn't as bad, is the valve body. Seems to be leaking on the top plunger area where it moves. But I've got to pressure wash it and find out for sure where my leak is coming from.
Thanks NH575. That is good information..i too am not too worried about useing regular orings and will wait to see 9f i need to replace that body seal...I wonder if that plunger tip is so small it will fall into releif(blue area) when i take it out tho? I really wanna stop the drip but dont wanna mess it up worse..lol.
Ah it striaght up and down so it should just fall out under gravity i would think..