Was taking m6bfront tires off today to go get new ones and notice my inner tierod joint has quite a bit of play on passenger side(if it was a car..lol) can any of the new holland owners look up what that part number is..my usually website doesnt seem to be working anymore.. The outer tierod looked ok but i am not sure if that is sold as a complete unite or as 2 peices. Thanks..i added a pic of the steering.
Toxic, here is the page. https://www.messicks.com/nh/50284
Thanks man! I think i found the part number and it is a part common to alot of different machines including case..i fojnd the part for 78 usd on ebay but im gonna go see how m7ch our canadian case dealer has it for first since i cant get to my mailbox in maine anymore..lol stup8d corona
Here it is for $63.50 USD and ships worldwide. I think it is a china aftermarket, but the OEM is $172 USD, so you can buy four + 30 packs of beer with your savings https://www.ebay.com/itm/1704-1006-...230293?hash=item4da4045995:g:uYoAAOSwygFekLgA
Would right hand be passenger side as sitting in the back hoe..that is the side i need and was alittle confused about which side was which..lol..that is a decent price too
Ill probably tear up the tierod boot getting it off so i should find one of those too..lol
New Holland is showing both the same...Don't show the boot separate...You are referring to the inner end, correct? I attached the drawing.
Yes part number 7 is bad. But in otder to make the steering adjustment i know i have to take the outer off..which meand using my pickle fork which in turn deatroys the boot..lol
I just hit the knuckle near where the stud goes thru (see pic), with a hammer. Loosen the nut till it is almost off. Hit good and sharp with good sized ball pein hammer, then you just remove the nut and lift the end out...no damage to anything.
Im having some bad luck lately..bite the bullet and paid case 277 for the part..get hkme and measure it with the cailpers and it is smaller on both threaded ends and on the boss..not sure how they messed that up cause he looked the part number up..dammit i with the border was open..lol
Would this one in the link work? I think you said it didnt matter which side was which but this guys as says left hand..would it work for my passenger side which im guessing is right hand? Look at this on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/174160069949
The crossover part number to New Holland is different that the number in the drawing that I sent you. Also, the New Holland drawing shows the threads to be 18 & 20 MM. The one in your link to Ebay says it is 22 & 24 MM...I would say this is a no go. Did you measure the one case gave you?
I did and the case one is smaller..you are correct cause ibdid measure one set of threads andbit was 20mm..i didnt measure the other..so the one in your link is the one i need then correct?
It just throws me ofd that my exact backhoe modle is mentioned in the ad that i linked too
You may have better luck using the official NH parts book. This should be what you need. IMHO !
But ----- You need to determine which axle you have. https://partstore.construction.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr55407ag24900
Thanks guys..im back at the case dealer trying to sort it out now..lol
It is really weird that Messick's lookup shows the inner and outer tie rods individually and the NH construction site shows them together. As far as the correct selection, you have 4x4 so Messick's only listed that one. Let us know how you make out!
Im still working on it..lol..the case dealer wasnt much help. Took back the part but coyldnt find me the right one. I am leaning more towards the one i linked..i was just outside with the digital cailpers and i have 22.3mm for the thread end going into the tierod. I got 36mm in the rod side but i cant acutally measure the threads cause they are in the rod..36mm is the boss size tho.. Other infor tractor serial number is 31004024 Front axle is stamped 2A 18381 6N 6A Boot that is over the joint is stamped with 01801065 I am haveing a heck of a time with this cause every parts look up seems different. Errrrr..lol
You probably won't have a problem but I seem to have terrible luck with everything I rebuild on my 575E. Cross your fingers when you start to loosen it that the one needing replacing is the one that comes loose. The steering shaft will spin in the cylinder and the flat they provided to hold it with is very thin. To get mine loose I held the left side with a 3' pipe wrench and loosened the right side with a 3' pipe wrench. I actually had to pry on the handle with a piece of steel tube to get it to come loose. The service manual warns of the extreme factory torque on that part. I just rebuilt my steering cylinder and had to fight with one side. I did get lucky when I held the left side and loosened the right that the right one loosened on my tractor. BUT, I had to get both sides off to rebuild the cylinder. At one point I thought I would end up having to buy a new cylinder and one new end. BTW they sell generic cylinders on eBay for as low as $500. That surprised me. The flat behind the ball socket is 30mm. I bought a wrench from Home Depot and ground it until it was thin enough to fit between the ball and rod but it just spread and buggered up the flat. I ended up buying a 2-7/16 two piece shaft collar and grinding it some so I could clamp it onto the rod piston. Then I used a 3' pipe wrench to hold the rod piston so I could jump on the 3' pipe wrench to loosen the rod end.
Here is the parts breakdown I downloaded for mine. Yours should be similar or the same?
Thanks NH575e. That doesnt sound like this is gonna be very fun even when i do find the part. My plan wasbto gake the outer tierod off completelly then use my buddies special tool for install/unstalling inner tierods on cars. It alllows the user to use an impact gun on it. If he has a socket big enough for this thing.
Please share the tools and process when you do it. I tried to loosen mine with an air chisel but the outer shell was too soft.
Very easy to put a hydraulic jack on the stem and hit it like Swetz shows in his post.
That's fine for a tie rod end. I was talking about the ball end on the steering shaft.
Wellbibthought about this and since i am rwplaceing the inner tierod end i was goin too A..brace the opposing side with a monkey wrench B. Removee the tierod from the knuckle on the broken side. C. Grind a horizontal line in the boss of the inner tierod end. D. Proceed to beat the **** out of it with an air chilsel till it let go..heres hopin its not too soft for this NH575E!
I really dont wanna spend alot of time fixin this..i need to move dirt..grabbed a yard of fill from the pit and lost a front tire a few days ago...770 dollars later those are brand new with tubes but i dont wanna lose my steering teying that again..its a good climb out of the pit!
Yes you were. Sorry.
NH575E, Good thinking on modifying the shaft collars. What a poop design that doesn't give you a good way to hold it, and they tell you...yo, this biotch is tight from the factory. When you make something like that, you need to make sure it will last forever. Toxic, How loose is it? I mean, do you think it is loose enough for the ball and socket to separate? If the answer is no, I would jet the current job done, then replace it. If the answer is yes, well, I guess you have to do it , and any other work is on the back burner. I do know how frustrating it is for you!
Here is a video..hopefully it shows how loose it it is...there is quite a bit of play in and out. I cant seem to upload the video but when i grab it i can easily move it in and out by hand..even with the tire on and weight of machine on it..
Toxic, The forum does not let you upload a video. You would have to do that elsewhere (like you tube) and put a link in a post. If the play is as bad as you state, you surly cannot let it go too long or it may become an issue. Did you find the part yet? Once you get the part, and verify it is correct, you may want to try the shaft collars that NH575E was talking about. I don't think they are majorly expensive, and may save you some headaches.
The shaft collar idea was used as I had the steering cylinder apart. I clamped it down on the cylinder piston to get the final end off. It won't help with doing an end with the cylinder assembled I'm afraid. I would be afraid to try it on the shaft since it seals the end of the cylinder. His end may very well just come loose. I didn't mean to scare anybody. Just sharing what I got into on mine. When I held the left side I was able to get the right side loose. Since his right side is the one needing replacing I am hoping he has the same result on removing it. I started out doing a video to upload to youtube since I found nothing on the steering cylinder for these tractors. When I got into the left side end not wanting to come off I gave up on the video and concentrated on the problem at hand.
The end should be a 85805975. Both sides should take the same end. The RH in the descriptions indicate it is right hand thread, not that it's for the right side of the tractor. Here's one for $59. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ball-Joint...292415?hash=item3fcaad43ff:g:9vUAAOSw5nZdZh2E
NH575E, Why wouldn't the collar idea work? In Toxic's case he is doing the R/H side. I would steer to the left and put the 2 collars on the ram on the right side near the end and use 2 pipe wrenches working against each other. This shouldn't put any stress on the steering cylinder seals as all the stress would be concentrated at the outer end of the steering cylinder rod. I do agree though, I would give it a whirl first without the collars, perhaps it would break loose. The manual does warn that they may be tight tho. There doesn't seem to be a lot of New Holland owners on here....So, any of you case 580L, 580SL, 580M, 580SM, 585G, 586G owners ever have to do the inner ball socket that can throw Toxic some pointers??
No need or reason to use the shaft collar idea unless you have the cylinder apart and need both ends loose to rebuild the cylinder. You can put pipe wrenches right on the ball end housings. To be honest if the left end comes loose first you may be **** out of luck. In that case I could see having to buy a new steering cylinder and at least one end. Again, I'm not trying to scare, just warning of the possibility. I did have a video of my attempt to loosen the ends so I am uploading that now. The idea ultimately worked to get the right side loose even though I didn't video me actually getting it loose.
NH575E, I do understand what you are saying. That is why I said to give it a whirl first. If it were me, the left side would break first since we want the right side off . I kinda wonder if warming the ball socket where the internal threads are, first, with a torch, would help to get the right side to break first. I would wait till the part came in and go for it. Meanwhile I would use it. I also think a cutoff wheel to thin the metal carefully might also help.
Swetz, the end is a threaded stud that threads inside the steering shaft. You would have to heat the chrome steering rod to have any effect and I wouldn't want to try that unless it was a last resort. Here is the video of how I set up to loosen mine. I ended up using a long piece of square tube against the bottom corner of the oil tank to pry down on the pipe wrench. Unfortunately I didn't video the successful operation but this shows how the pipe wrenches were positioned when I did have success.
Looking at the shaft photo again there might be an inch or so you could risk damaging with a pipe wrench or bolting a shaft collar on. I started my tractor and turned the steering to lock to see and took a pic. If you scratched or gouged any of the surface past that it would most likely leak at full lock. Here is the disassembled photo again showing the area outside of the seal wear. I also put and arrow and description showing the piston that I put a shaft collar on to hold it. I had to wrap the piston with double sided tape and tighten the shaft collar down because the chrome surface was too slick to get it to hold with just the collar.
After more pondering and trying to scare you I have a final suggestion or two. First I would try getting it loose with pipe wrenches as I did in my video. If the wrong side comes loose I would order an 1-1/2" two piece shaft collar. The shaft is 38mm so this size collar would be a tiny bit loose. You will have to wrap something on the shaft and/or grind some off the collar faces to get it to tighten down on the shaft. Either way the chrome surface is too slick to get anything to hold without adding some sticky tape. I used Scotch brand permanent tape . After wrapping with tape and tightening down the shaft collar on top you could put a pipe wrench on the collar to try and hold the shaft. I bought my shaft collar from McMaster Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/1312/ You would want the black oxide steel version. The 1-1/2" would be part number 6436K23 at $9.22 plus shipping.
NH575E, Thanks for the video and pics. You made me think of the tape that they use on pistols called grip tape. I bet that would work. It has strong adhesive and a rough surface. Non skid tape might also work too. I am hoping that Toxic is able to get the R/S to turn off! https://www.amazon.com/TALON-998R-G...words=handgun+grip+tape&qid=1589416519&sr=8-2
Thanks guyd for al the tips..the case dealer called today and said he found the correct part. Just have to wait for it to get shipped in. I will let everyone know how i make out...if i can get it off...lol
Little update..finally got the correct part. The inner tierod came off fairly easy after i braced the rod and jammed up the oposide side. The outer tierod put up a bit of a fight but eventually came loose. Took about 1.5 in total...so with the rest of the day ahead i changed the trans fluid and filter as well as welded my exhaust pipe back to the muffler and painted fenders and hood...the wife and kid are calling it bumble bee now..lol Todays project is get interior domeblight working change a wiper blade and maybe figure out how to adjust the slack in my throttle lever Oh and if anyone knows how im suppose to change the fan belt without taking the radator out that would be awsome..lol
Toxic, Thanks for the update...I am glad all went well for you! The tractor is looking real good! I especially like the new tires (we call em skins) in the front. Did you add the extensions on the top of the front loader? It looks like your bucket leveling system is out of commission. I recently fixed my bucket leveling system. I created a thread on the repair. I placed a link to the thread below. HeavyEquipmentForums
Yeah Swetz my bucket level system is not there..i have the broken end of it..just need some joints..i find i dont need it tho and like being able to curl dirt up high to get a full bucket..lol..the perivous owner put the extentions on..comes in very handy for snow. Have you had to change your fan belt yet? I not seeing an easy way to do it..lol
Toxic, If you didn't already purchase the belt, I recommend not buying it from NH. It is like $45.00 USD. I posted a link to the belt that is exactly the same as the one on my tractor, on Ebay for like $13.00 USD. Double check to make sure it is the same as yours, but you could buy the belt, a case of beer, and still have change for the price NH wants. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dayco-Belt-13A1450C-/323865762602 I don't see why you would need to remove the radiator? I attached a pic of my setup. If yours is the same, the belt will squeeze between the fan and shroud. I do have A/C, so I have 2 belts. Actually doesn't look bad. I have not done mine yet but will soon, just because it is 20 years old, not that it looks bad. I sent you a PM.
Thanks Swetz. Yeah that looks the same as mine minus the AC..i didnt th8nk there would be enough room to get it past the fan blade and shourd but makes sence that it should...who wants to move a rad to change a belt..lol
Great news on the tie rod fix. I've had the belts off of mine. I think I just found a spot where it fit between the fan blade and shroud then rotated the fan as I pulled the belt through that gap. I did not remove the shroud or radiator. Wish my tractor looked as good as you guys but then I would have to worry about keeping it clean. I'm happy as long as I keep the AC cooling and the stereo working. Every now and then I clean the windows if I can't see out. I'm glad my bucket level system works. I just built a soil screener and I could see me dumping a load on the hood if it didn't. I have used it some with my little John Deere and have to be real careful not to raise it all the way up and curled all the way back.
NH575E, Do you have any pics of the soil screener? I would love to build on in the future. Also, funny you should mention the A/C. Mine does not work. To be honest, I really didn't care until yesterday when it was over 80 degrees in North East PA. OMG, it was hot in the cab. I had both doors open to make it bearable. So, next time I go back to my home in nj, I will be getting my gauges. Something tells me it is out of freon, being 20 years old.