New member, run for your lives . Bought a grove TM275LP, needs a bunch of work on it. I am building container house, and didn't want to rent. My brother said I wanted a container house because I had a hard on for a crane haha. I wanted a nicer machine and looked for at least a year this one came up fairly local so I jumped on it. Most immediate thing to fix is one of the outriggers is a geyser, but can plainy see the hole, hopefully it's not a complete pia to get the hose out. Also needs a holding valve (i suppose) as the boom bleeds down, slowly. Third stage is also a geyser, but may be not needed. Lower is 8-71 13 sp with 4 sp splitter. I got it to stop and start from the cab, now needs the brakes fixed. Parking brake works great, builds air like a champ, but loses air when the brakes released. Tires are excellent. Anyways, hopes of being crane kiig of the county have been dashed, but I can use it around the house for now
Looks like good rubber, at least the steers.
Oh, he!!..... YOU FIT right IN!!!! Welcome to the HEF with a BANG!!!
Welcome. Jumping in head first and with a picker. Woo-hoo!
The rears are even nicer, changed over to 24.5 11. 2nd steer are real nice, front axle are pretty good
There's no School like old School. Very similar to the first crane I ever owned. Mine was a FWD carrier tm250, I think your carrier is a Pierce, judging by the outriggers and cab. Diesel or gas upstairs? Some were detriot upstairs, others had ford gassers. Mine had actually been repowered upstairs to a perkins. It was great on fuel. Looks like you have the 32-101 4 section boom. The dead section is okay once you learn how to use it. The A frame jibs are a pain to mount, unless you have all the time in the world and a forklift handy.
I had the same enthusiasm as you the day I hualed home my rt58. When your all done well see if you still have it!!!!!
It's detroit up and down, upper I'm not sure if it's a 6 or 4. The pdf spec page shows it came with a 6-71 lower and 5 sp, I figured it got swapped out at some time. I got brand new support cables for the A-frame, I'll install them later on. I'll be back to messing with it in a couple days, I hope to at least get the outrigger hose off. I'll have questions about the load chart and best way of deploying the jib later.
I'm already looking at another one, shipping is a tough pill to swallow
I want to remove an outrigger, and have no manual. The stationary end of the cylinder looks easy enough to detach, if detached, will the whole thing slide out of the box, cylinder and all, or are the stops that have to be dealt with?
I've never had a pierce carrier beam out. Some pictures of each end might help. On a grove carrier- If you need to reseal cylinder there's a pin on each side. If you are just changing hoses, you can pull the pin opposite the jack cylinder, and pull beam and jack together. Change both hoses and slide it back together. Use wire or rope to restring.ie tie rope to old hose, and use that rope to pull new hose back through.
One of the outrigger hoses needs changed, now the jack on the opposite side sprung a leak while running them yesterday A couple of the jack hoses were already replaced, but they just threw them over the carrier. The hoses are a mixed bag of crimp and thread on, I'll probably buy some hose and fittings and make my own Retainer bolt Pin opposite
How about a couple more pictures showing the outrigger cylinder, both sides. It's pretty lazy to no rethread the hose in the box
Anyone have the procedure for removing dpring tension off the third section hose reel? I'm going to replace both hoses
They usually have a hole in the drum. to put a pin in, and then retract boom to get it slack. I've clamped a vise grip on the rim, to ones that don't have a hole. You're wanting to pull boom? or replace a hose in the reel?
Replace the hoses in the reel, the 3rd section won't move, there's a geyser in the hose. I had thought of doing it like a garage door spring, i dont think I'd trust the vice grips but might try them. There's a bolt that may play a part in holding it, but I didn't see a hole it would go into With everything retacted it's about 4 feet to the fittings in the boom, easy enough to get off, reconnecting will take some doing. We test lifted a container a few days ago, I'm going to need the 3rd section to do what I want, not to mention just wanting to get all 3 sections, the dead section and the underfolder up in the air for the erection factor
I'm almost sure there's a pin hole to lock it. I've got a old book I think at the shop, and it should show it. I'll look at it tomorrow. I hope you aren't planning on using jib for lifting conexes?
Ha no on the jib/context, I was thinking of another erection. If you have the manuel that's great, when uou have time I'd appreciate it if you'd let me know what it says about the reel. I need to shop around maybe I'll get lucky and find one
Got the hoses out today, made a tool to turn the reel and vise grips to hold it. Hoses are about 33 ft each Question about the dumb section of boom. It gets drawn out with the end boom section, wouldn't the end section need a super long cylinder to extend both it and the pin section ? Or it it only either or?
There's only two extension cylinders. Both the same length. The tip section is run in and out using the second section cylinder, and its either locked/pinned retracted, or extended. If you run with the tip extended, but the 1 and 2 sections not fully extended, the chart capacities are based on boom angle, with pinned section extended.
Ok got to looking at it, the previous owner said the pin section was behind the tip, but he didn't know apparently. TADA
3rd section probably hadn't seen light in forever. Hose job wasn't to bad, but plenty expensive, for me anyways. Section is bone dry, I'll lube it tomorrow and then play with the pin section. Bad news is, the aux hoist rat nested, it's been working fine, but may have ran out enough to either find a bad wrap, or the ball simply isn't heavy enough. The good news is there's half a drum of what looks like brand new cable under the brown stuff on top.
Getting on and off the levers too fast can tend to rat's nest a drum, especially if the cable is kind of rusty and been sitting on the drum a long time. Or you slacked the line in the rest, or having the ball on the ground. How heavy is the ball, and what size cable does it have on it?
And if you don't know what you are doing with the dead stick, you can tear **** up in a heartbeat. And to fix what you tear up, you end up cutting windows in the boom and welding your way back out. So if you don't know what you're doing, find someone who does-that can walk you through it the first time.
Weight wise the ball weighs about 40 or 50 lbs, 1/2 inch line I worked on the outriggers yesterday and today, replaced the gusher and routed another new line in the box instead of having it over the carrier. Job well done, no problems, going to rack it up look at the main winch drum and see a river of hydraulic fluid, looks like it dumped the entire tank . What a waste.
Of all the things to sub out, you should have just hired the crane work done. Its one day to set the containers, and the bill would have been less than what you are going to spend on this old crane. Maybe cheaper than what you are going to spend on hoses and hydraulic fluid. There's lots of better ways to save money on a house build.
Ya its definitely losing its shine. Hose is one thing, but dumping all yhat fluid. It's gone up 10 dollars/5gal can since I bought 30 gallons 3 or 4 weeks ago
Wanted to add a couple of details about the work I've done on it To work on the hose reel, turn the upper unit to the side, now there's plenty of room to work from underneath. There is a boss welded to the reel the bolt goes into yo hold it, and a small window in the side to get the fittings off, actually a pretty easy job. The outrigger was also pretty easy, remove the retainer bolt, remove the quick connects and pull it out with the tractor enough to work on it.