Just picked up my first skidsteer, a 2014 CAT 257D. Runs, drives and operates with a couple small issues i am trying to fix up. Seems it is missing a bearing sleeve, or at least the cap. Looking at the parts.cat.com store, the bearing sleeve is 258-3014, though I'm not sure what this is used for. There are 4 of these on the machine and one is missing a cap (photos attached). Just making sure i order what is needed as it seems there is just a cap missing. Can anyone confirm this? Secondary to this is the advanced screen. I went through all of the attempts to get the screen working again but may be fried (taken the control board out and trying to root cause the issue at the circuitry level, but likely will not be able to make it work again). Any salvage yards around or sites to reach out to for cheaper alternatives in Michigan?
Post a Serial Number. That will get to the correct parts diagram. You may have to search nationally. These screens are in high demand because of the price. Effectively you have three choices - Cat, Cat, or maybe Cat. What Part Number is your current screen.? There may be an updated version.
CAT0257DKEZW00570 The circuit board has a number but the plastic housing SN's have worn away. Circuit board is either 24081526 Rev. H or 141712087CT. Looks like it is either 378-1035 or 378-1036 (not sure the difference).
378-1036 is the Advanced Display as originally fitted to your machine. 378-1035 is the "basic" Monitor Panel as per the illustration below. Over the past 10+ years since EZW00570 was built the 378-1036 panel has updated to (in sequence) 466-4940->502-5055->514-2367->543-1326->642-0776. Any of those numbers if bought used will work because they will be pre-programmed with the appropriate software.
Thank you Nige! Any idea about the bearing sleeve noted in the first post? Doesn't seem to affect anything but i am not well versed with these machines (yet), so not sure the purpose of it.
See attached. It is certainly missing a bolt, washer, and spring pin at least. It may be missing the outer bushing/bearing that fits inside the track frame. It will require closer inspection. The purpose of the two bushings on each axle is to provide a replaceable wear part instead of having to replace either an axle or a track frame, both of which would be $$$$.
The forum is lucky to have you, thank you very much!! Also, i reviewed the circuit board under microscope and found nothing out of the ordinary. My suspicion is the LCD got burned up. Looking into sourcing one of those instead of the whole thing. Otherwise, i will be on the hunt for a full display.
@Nige any chance you have the procedure for the bushing replacement? Or a service manual i can look through?
There is no procedure for bushing replacement that I can see. I guess it's one of those jobs that the factory considers everyone knows how to do. The only thing I can tell you is that it will require the complete undercarriage assembly to be removed from the axles in order to gain access to remove/reinstall the bushes. See the attached procedure.
I imagine that is to replace both inner and outer bushings (which is also, likely, highly recommended). I could likely get away with doing the outer bushings with just some jacks, but will also probably fail quickly if the inners are not done at the same time.
If you look closely at the 389-7591 parts diagranm it appears as though the #9A bushing is a split type. that leads me to believe that they shouldn't be too dififcult to knock out. With the track frame slid sideways off the axles to provide sufficient clearance a drift inserted down the bore from the outside should work to knock the inner bush out, and vice versa from the inside to knock the outer bush out.
That's assuming the bushing boss isn't hogged out or oval, or that axle shaft is worn down.
That's a can of worms that will be opened as soon as the track frame is pulled off......
You can more or less slam those bushings home with a deadblow hammer without much trouble usually. Never had one that was a press fit.
I'm more worried about extracting them. To extract either, seems like i need to remove the entire undercarriage. Seems easy in terms of what to do, it's just simply the weight and finding a ram that will push the undercarriage off of those shafts. I have some research to do.
I was able to locate an LCD screen. If it fixes the unit, I will post the procedure for the R&R. Otherwise, I will post back that I completely failed and need a new advanced display Should be here by the end of the month. I've already disassembled and reassembled so i know it can be done, just not sure if the LCD is broken or the circuitry on the main board that is fried. Worth the attempt to save ~$1,400...
You do. There is no way round it. We only provide the information. We can't do the job for you.
I've just jacked up the machine and stuffed a pallet jack under the tracks and pulled them out with that. Shouldn't have to remove hoses, normally you can get enough slack to get it slid off the shafts.
This is a great idea, thank you very much for that! Now to borrow a pallet jack or buy one!
Biggest pain is sometimes getting the torsion axles re-aligned to slide the frame back on. Usually not bad if you haven't replaced the torsion axles though. With new axles it can be an absolute PITA.
Well, the LCD replacement didn’t work. Must be rooted in the control board. The display still has the lights at the top lighting up and the reset using the two outer buttons makes it restart (top lights turn off at 15 seconds after holding the buttons), the screen just never turns on. Better news is the undercarriage removal and axle bushings process was smooth! Super surprised that the entire track system is held on by 2 bolts . The pallet jack idea is brilliant! Worth finding an old one on marketplace. In case anyone wants to know the procedure I used, literally, no more difficult than this: 1) remove attachments/bucket 2) jack up machine and place 4 corner jack stands on the belly of the skid. 3) take the two bolts and washers off (mine was already missing one bolt and washer) on the axle stubs 4) place the pallet jack under the tracks and jack up until you’ve released the majority of pressure of the complete undercarriage from the axles 5) remove the two bolts on the hydraulic cover to allow the hydraulic hoses to extend more when you slide the undercarriage off 6) slide the undercarriage straight back with pallet jack 7) tap the old bushings out (mine were relatively torn up so they literally fell out in pieces) 8) clean the axle stubs as well as undercarriage holes for the stubs. Clean the grease valleys in the undercarriage holes so new grease can properly flow in the bushings/axle area 9) install new bushings with a block of wood and hammer 10) pre-grease the axle stubs prior to pushing the undercarriage back on to the stubs 11) install new roll pins into the ends of the axle if needed 12) install washer and bolt onto axle stubs
Nice job. BTW - Moved this thread over to the CTL forum.
What was the state of the bushes in the "undamaged" (complete) axle.?
Looks like axles are worn out to me
Waiting for the other bushings to come in to replace the ‘good side’.
Sorry you misunderstood. I was asking about the bushings on the RH front axle that was not missing the bolt and the end cover.
Axles definitely have some wear on them. Think I would replace them.
Photos of the pieces of bearing from the failed side (right side, sitting in cab). The complete bushings were inboard, partial bushings were outboard. Just got new parts in for the other side. They have some wear for sure, though $1k per axle stub is out of the budget for now. For a low use, around the house machine that will likely get less than 50 hours this year, would you replace them? Side note, found out the retaining bolt snapped off in the axle. Going to try to drill it out... otherwise, new axle will be forced on me.
It may be too late now (it’s never too late but it will need a bit more work) but you could have unbolted the axle from the machine frame and got it somewhere where it could be worked on more comfortably and with more precision than trying to do everything by hand while it was still on the machine.
I thought the same and while it was relatively easy to remove (still on the jack stands as we speak), i'm not sure it would be any better to have off the unit. Do you happen to have the R&R procedure for the axle? Seems somewhat easy.
Generally not a fan of spray welding axles and turning them but in this situation, especially with those types of bushings, I would be doing it myself. Especially at a thousand bucks. Wouldn’t be that bad of a job, not sure I could do it on my Heavy 13, if it’s enough swing. Then your job just got a bit harder.
See the attachment. You have to get inside for 2 bolts. The other 4 are right in front of you. My thought process was that rather than risk screwing up the thread in the end of the axle you could maybe take it to a local machine or welding shop and have them remove the broken bolt for you. That would save the axle, for now at least.
For what those axles and bushings do vs the price of the axle it’s not worth replacing them yet. The only thing a worn axle will give you is a little tilt of the track frame. Most people would never notice the difference in a yard use machine.
Thank you again! These procedures make stuff look super easy! Looks like i have to tilt the cab to get to those 'internal' bolts? Once i get the other side on, i might look into this as a machine shop would be best to get this out...
Bushing replacement x8 was a success! Thanks again for the ideas on how to get these out. Bought a pallet jack, jack stands and 3.5 ton jack and made life easy to do this job. Now i am finding out there are many more pins that need replacing due to slop. Is there a 'pin kit' or something for all the joints on these machines? I see a few around the bucket that i would like to get done sooner than later. This thing is a work horse though! Only thing it needs is a radio inside
The attached covers EZW machines up to 1015, which includes yours. I may be wrong but I think a lot of those pins do not have bushes in the joint where they are installed, so check carefully that your problem is actually a worn pin and not wear in the parent bore before considering replacements. In the same way as the bushings on the torsion axles, a "proper" fix might be a bit more spendy than you imagined.
Good point! I noticed wear in other areas so i'll be sure to check what the actual worn part is before just buying pins that may not be the issue. Thank you again!
Just going off memory I don't believe there are bushings in the bucket cylinders or in the quick attach plate. Would have to confirm with a parts diagram, which unfortunately I do not have access to.
There was an update to retrofit bushings in the cylinders because early machines were built without them and users complained of a lack of serviceability.
Good info. Was not aware of that, I stopped working on yellow iron before that update.
I was also surprised when I read it. I thought the bushing update came along much earlier.
Love how it describes some new machines may be shipped with a mixture of some with bushings and some without, until the original design cylinders supply is exhausted. Imagine getting a new machine and finding out some are bushed and some are not. lol
Can anyone advise a good way to remove the axle sleeve bushings. I need to do this on a 299D? I have the track frame removed as of today and next is removing the bushings. Is there some type of puller or other tooling o need to find?
See Post #21, Step 7.
Thank you for directing me. I overlooked that.