I am getting ready to put the new rollers on my 931b, i noticed that about 3 of them have greese where they have been lubed, the greese looks kinda green, should i double ck to make sure they have greese???? thanks.
grease? I haven't put rollers on a 931b, but most rollers have oil in them. Do they have grease fittings on the rollers?
Yes a small spot at the lub hole ,but it is red lookin, not green, my mistake, Today i removed 2 twisted off bolts, after breaking about 10 bits trying to get elm out, took a cuttin torch to them, one looks ok but the other has a bur inside, could be the easy out that broke. Tomarrow i will torch a little more on that one and try and get the threads cleaned up.
Well i got the bolts out, and got the threads cleaned up, after doing a little sanding to clean up the rails, installed the roller where the bolts were broke. That roller is not to easy to lift up, after trying fifteen ways to lift it up, i made a wooden wedge to roll it up in place, I was glad to get that one torqued down. Only 9 more to go, and yes no grease, there is a plug in the hole.
only 6 more to go, today i installed the last to last single flange, only the three in the middle on each side left, havin fun.
hi hef, well i installed the rest of the rollers, i'am glad thats over, i cleaned the threads out to make sure that i did not get a cross thread. when i used the anti-seize and had the roller lined up straight i could get the bolts up very easy, i made a couple wedges and rolled the roller up the ramp, that worked ok but not as easy as you might think, a couple of times the roller got away from me, and a busted finger is the results. I wonder how the pros install, and i guess they may have a couple guys or some tool to hold the roller, havin fun.
Sheared bolts in a track frame, always a lot of fun. :Banghead
HI willie59, I only had 2 broken bolts but they were a lota work, and the cuttin torch did the best, i used 2 small bottels of acedline and air, trying to learn how to burn them out after i had a small hole drilled through, It was my first time working with a torch and i had seen other guys cuting and welding over the years and wanted to give it a try, one thing i want to do is get a better face sheld, the one that comes with the welder is not worth a crap. Sam.
Good thing you got them removed. I've worked on some track frames that every bottom roller bolt puts up a fight.
Yair . . . . I know the feeling willie59 . You may have seen my comments on other threads about over long bolts being a problem . . . some machines did not have blind holes and a few threads protuding and rusting often means grief. Cheers.
Yep, I've been there Scrub, bolts protruding through holes inside a track frame, just enough threads to rust, corrode, whatever, so when you try to remove them, well, good luck with that. :Banghead
Hi hef, willie59 / Scrub Puller, i guess you guys do a lot of repairs and have a lot more experence working on heavy equiptment. I knew that some bolts may break but though that they would come out easy after drilling, no such luck with that. I have worked on cars and trucks and helicopters and have never had a big bolt shear off. I have some other bolts broken that are smaller, were the rock guard attaches, do you guys use a cutting torch on the small bolts? sam a.
Yair . . . wasama931b . Unfortunately broken roller/rockgaurd bolts are a fact of life. As willie59 and I mention up-thread one of the major problems with removal is corrosion on threads that project inside the trackframe if the bolts are over long . . . if you have that situation then you pretty much are screwed. You have a couple of options. If you can get a small pilot hole drilled through a good operator with a gas torch can often "wash" most of the bolt out (probably as you have done) without too much damage to the threads . . . a horrible job but doable. With bolts that break in blind holes I have had a lot of success (as mentioned on this board before) by welding a flat washer to broken bolt and then a nut to the washer . . . the concentrated heat of the welding seems to expand the bolt and when it cools back to ambient they mostly come out easy. If the worst comes to the worst you just have to weld the rollers or rockgaurds on. Its no big deal really. It can keep the tractor going untill such time as the machine is due for a major or in our case do a final . . . much easier then to flip the frame over and use a magnet drill and slug cutter to mill the bloody things out propper. As regards lifting rollers. If you can get one side up into the trackframe and apply ten ton hydraulic jack to the roller cap you will find the roller will actualy lift . . . makes it easier to slip dunnage under and when you get it safe the jack under one side close in to the roller will hold the roller up in place Cheers.
rollers