I picked up this old angle blade the other day. Engine and undercarriage seem to be fine. The blade is sloppy as hell, though. Worst of all the Tilt struts have been welded solid. I do want to get them adjustable again. Does anyone have any ideas? I guess I could cut out the existing allthread and replace it with 1 1/4" acme allthread or something of that caliber, but what could I use for female threads? Will I have to find some left hand allthread or does one end swivel?
Yair . . . What a handy machine. I don't think you need anything special. 1 1/4" Sampson bar would be fine 1 1/2" better. One three foot length needed plus a couple of nuts. (this will do both sides) One end swivels. I like to fit them with a pipe protector so there is no exposed thread. A grease way drilled through nut and tapped for a zerk is a nice touch. Cheers.
Thanks for the reply, Scrub Puller. I'm sure glad you said one end swivels. I assume the bottom end with the adjustment hole is the swivel end. I'm trying to visualize how to get the nuts inside the pipe and welded in place. The outside of a 1 1/4" nut is probably larger than the inside diameter of that pipe.
Yair . . . Gotcha mate. Knock the corners of the nuts of with a grinder . . .better turned off in a lathe of course but in the real world there is no need to be that flash. Man, I'm drooling just looking at that little machine. (grins) Cheers
Good idea. It may be a couple weeks before I get around to this. The inside of the pipes probably have the old worn out threads still in it so Likely I'll be welding a different piece of pipe on the end....maybe larger diameter with 1 1/2" threads. Pic shows the welded end. They screwed them in all the way in and welded them. I wonder if it tilted the blade back a little from where it should be.
Yair . . . When you get them fixed and turning nice and easy you will be able to experiment to find the best angle for your conditions. Cheers.
Both ends of the top link are originally able to swivel. Post a s/n of the blade and I can provide parts diagram.
On my old D4D when I purchased it the top adjustable links were badly worn where the threads would not hold anymore & I purchased new aftermarket ones (both the pipe section with the internal thread & the male threaded ends) for a reasonable price. To make the blade tight, after it is adjusted level (sight it up with the perforations on the front grill so it lines up) then once level I would adjust them out tight (lengthen) on both sides & that would make the blade nice & rigid.
Do you remember who the aftermarket supplier was?
The dozer serial number is 78A6093. I can't find any number on the blade.
Looks like a logger. The blades were often tilted back so the cutting edge floated better when bucking up trees on the landings. Saved on dirt in the wood. No reason to weld them that way unless something was way buggered up.
Should be a 52Exxxx number on the back side of the mold board, RH side.
Not sure where you are located but I purchased the parts from a small dealer in NY State & had them shipped. See part #'s & prices below, purchased in 2013 I believe. Main Top Brace- # 2-JA53 @ $325.00 Ea. Top Eye Ass.- # 2-J848 @ $165.00 Ea. Bottom Eye Ass.- # 2-J847 @ $165 Ea. S & S Tractor Parts- PH-1-315-673-1075
Thanks. I found two small rivets on the right rear of the blade where a tag probably used to be.
Sand in the area abit sometimes serial number stamped in steel John
Thanks! A little paint stripper did the trick. This is the number; 4H 6984
That number is part of the blade assembly, not the blade s/n. Here is the diagram for 52E1-8125. 52E8126-up is the same except for a different bearing assembly part number.
Thank you very much, Old Magnet! I printed that and took it to the dozer and yes it seems to be correct. The 2J853 brace assy is what I will be needing two of. I don't know how I could have identified it without your help.
While I have the attention of some of the smarter vintage Caterpillar guys, I have another question which has been answered here before but I can't find... I just got my operators manual in the mail today and it says to use SAE 30W Superior Lubricants series 3 oil in the crankcase, oil clutch, transmission, hydraulic and final drives. Is there any consensus about easily obtainable modern substitutes? I'll be starting in weather no colder than 20 degrees F.
TO-30 is the modern equivalent of that for everything but the motor. I don't think the old motors like the new multi-viscosity engine oils we have now. I'm sure one of the older school guys, I'm old school but not that far back, will chime in and agree or chastise me! Lol
TDTO (Transmission Drive Train Oil) 30wt TO-4 spec. would be the modern oil to use except for the motor. "Superior Lubricants " was just a brand name at the time. "Series 3" was the terminology for straight weight oils. Those old engines are best to use the straight 30wt or 40wt detergent (Diesel) engine oils. Don't need all the additives of multi viscosity oils.
Thanks Old Magnet. I will use the TDTO 30 in the trans, wet clutch and finals. Maybe something cheaper for hydraulic at least until I get the blade cylinders sealed (or shims removed?). Anyone have recommendations for a 30 W detergent diesel engine oil? Napa maybe? There's not much commonly available anymore.
Try your local TSC. They show Shell Rotella T1 in sae 30 and 40wt.
If I were in a pinch on getting replacements, I'd try out something like these adapters and some grade 8 allthread. https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/collections/tube-adapters/products/1-5-12-tpi-tube-adapter Stick them in some DOM tube with some 7018 hot glue. You could leave the yoke fixed on one end of the tube, and just pull the pin, lift if off the eye, and twist to the desired length.
Not hard on a lathe to cut LH or RH threads as needed, adaptors as these could be readily made local if needed.
Thanks, I was wondering where I could buy something like that.
Good advice! I went to TSC and picked up 5 gallons today.