I just picked up a used KX121-2 It is just going to be an around the yard machine. 3200 hrs with Cab. According to the dealer it was sold in 1998 by the serial #. It is not a " Super Series" My questions are, What is a Super Series anyway? Is there any out there making aftermarket pins and bushings? Any Advice on things to keep an eye on with this mode?. Thank you.
You can have your pins & bushings made at any local machine shop
Agree with above, basic parts are still available for the -2 series but some take a good deal of looking. Buckets are about the worst. I have a KX161-2, the "-2" is the first incarnation of a newer design series that replaced the KH, those were manufactured from about '97 or so back into probably the early 90s, maybe earlier. The "-3" Super Series was a pretty radical remodel of the -2, and incorporated a new cab/bonnet design, internal hydraulic changes, a digital dash, 2-speed on the dozer stick, angle blade, thumb control, rheostat throttle, and several other improvements. Not sure, but I believe the -2, -3, -4 etc. might have also designated Tier-type emissions, too. The -3 Super Series was made maybe to about 2012 or so..?, when it was replace by the -4 and emissions. You've probably noticed that the cab is military sparse, and not real big on creature comfort. The foot control for the thumb is what threw me the worst, tho now I'm getting to where I do considerable better. I grew up on older equipment, so I'm not real out of place but do miss some of the ease and comfort of newer machines, especially a heater that actually heats the cab. The biggest annoyance you'll find is the foot travel controls; they were designed for about size 3 feet and darn near useless. After trying a couple prototype add-ons, I'm going to break out my welder this spring and remodel mine a bit, see if I can't see some improvement. The upside of the older ones is toughness and simplicity. They aren't horrible to work on, and things aren't so crowded that you have to perform major disassembly to repair anything. Parts are really reasonable compared to newer machines, and no emissions to dollar you to death. Decent on fuel for a smaller machine, on a 12 hour day digging steady in river run with a 24" toothed, I'll burn about 13-14 gallons, and don't necessarily need full throttle - I run 75%-80% unless the going is pretty tough. I haven't run many minis, but feel the digging power is pretty good, and bucket breakout is maybe a bit better than average, but I have a pin-on which helps. Proper track tension is a little tricky, but I have a steel tracked model, with 21" street pads. I have to run them a touch looser than I'd like, easy to tell when I'm even a little tight - audible complaints from the undercarriage. Other than that, I really can't say I've found anything out of the ordinary to watch - average stuff to go wrong but minimal if you're easy on the machine and there's no inherent problems to begin with. I know a guy pretty well who has run these older Kubotas, and he says they are built as well as anything, and if you can live with a spartan piece of equipment they'll work hard with few problems. I'm a big believer in grease, but not overgreasing, and am religious about basic maintenance.
Thank you for the information. The first thing I did when I got the machine was pull the floorboards, Vacuum out the 2 inches of dirt and hot power wash everything. Now if I have to work on it everything is clean. I guess they were made from 1997-2002. Mine is a plain old one. Not the super series. I have no idea what super series means. The door frame on mine is bent a little on the top. I want to pull the glass before I attempt to straighten it. It looks like it is Glued in. I thought they were all gasket types but I guess not. The only thing that i'm am not having luck with it removing the black hydraulic fill cap. That is locked on there. Any tips?
Push down hard and turn ??
It doesn't look like a 1/4 turn cap. It's a big black cap that I assume is threaded.
Should be threaded, my 161's cap has hex bolt type flats - first pic Second pic is the cap screwed off, threads are small and easily dinged, NF-type. Far as I can tell, the Super Series was the pretty complete makeover listed above, but centered on the dozer blade - a 4-way and later the 6-way were offered. More electronics and modern design of cab and hydraulics, newer engine design. Here's a link to a .pdf sales brochure. It is for Australian models, but I doubt American were all that much different. http://www.miniquip.com.au/pdfs/kx161-3kubota.pdf
I finally got the cap off. The oil was cloudy and greenish color. I drained the tank. I found at the bottom of the tank a thick Seal, oring, and bunch of plastic chunks that came from the bottom of the filler cap. The return filter didn't seen very secure to where it meets the bottom of the tank. I am going to order a new cap, filter and seals. What do you reccommend for hydraulic oil? I've always used UTF at work but open to suggestions. I wish I could find a discount kubota dealer online. Man do they stick it to you.
The owner's manual for my machine specs AW dedicated hydraulic oil, viscosity depending on general climate temp range. I use 46 as my season is short and tends towards being cooler. I've put an awful lot of hours on equipment using basic AW oils, and have seen very few failures - I expect cleanliness and regular filter/oil changes would account for that. There is an astounding volume of oil-related info on hydraulic, engine and drive systems, enough to stall your brain. I will allow that the good stuff is likely better on equipment and in the long run probably more cost effective, and under heavy usage I've had exceptional luck with synthetics. However, have many thousands of hours on older equipment using the basic 5-gallon jugs you get from the co-op or parts store, change out regular and keep the systems from contamination and they run like a champ.
Thank you for the info. I just changed the suction and return filter. I could barely get the oil tank cap off so I ordered a new one. The old one seemed dryed out and swelled up. The new one screws right on. I bought some new ISO46 oil. I'm just trying to check over everything as I go. Its sure nice being able to looking up all the parts compared to my grey market IHI. However, everything is so expensive.
Guess I haven't found the average replacement stuff too bad, but then I'm a little callous from buying parts for equipment for so long. I always get a starter, water pump and alternator for what I own, as having those on hand has saved me a lot of time in the past. I do buy OEM where my Kubota equipment is concerned, especially filters. Those three components were about $350 or so, starter being the most expensive, water pump the least. Kubota's OEM filters are about twice what parts house replacements are, but cut one open and you'll see why. Doesn't take but one hydraulic pump or engine rebuild to justify them.