Hi …new here with a question regarding my Dresser Td7G. I discovered the right side bushings were shot (worn through on the track side of the bushing) on one side, …but the left are OK. I took it to my local Komatsu/Dresser dealer to have the Bushings turned on that right track. The track guy said "I can't do anything with this, it is too far gone". Why the right would be that way and the left is Ok who knows …I am not the original owner. It has Berco chain on it now. The question is …if I have to replace the right chain ….is that Ok and leave the left? Or am I faced with replacing both? The dozer is my occasional use farm machine. When it is used ….it can be on steep hills here in Tennessee and gets a workout. It has served me well and is a strong running machine for what I need. The other question of course is if I replace one chain ….is it Ok for aftermarket rather than Berco chain? Thanks for the response in advance. RH
You can replace one chain at a time, though I do recommend you replace the sprocket at the same time. Any brand will work, even good used if you can find it. Everything new is of course the best way to go, but as I'm fond of saying sometimes I just don't deserve the best, lol. Do what works for you.
Hi thanks for the reply. Yes I have heard about replacing the sprocket too, although I have had a couple of the local boys who have had more dozers than I could think of ...tell me the sprocket looked good. Taking all of this under consideration. This dozer can sit for months …and not be used …and then maybe for a couple of days …or if clearing an area be used daily for a couple of weeks.
the sprocket and chain wear together and as the chain pitch stretches, so does the effective pitch between the sprocket teeth. Adding a new chain with original pitch will not mesh well with an older sprocket with longer pitch. this would cause accelerated wear on these components.
If the bushings were shot to the extent you describe in your initial post it's cast-iron guaranteed that the sprocket is gone as well. You can't have that level of bush damage without it affecting the sprocket IMO. Why not try posting some photos of the sprocket and let's all see what it looks like.
:idea:iagree
Thanks folks , I will take a picture of the sprocket tomorrow. If I can avoid new sprocket (or sprockets if I do both sides) …I sure want to. But at the same time, safety first. Please remember, this dozer is not for commercial use and is not used that much. But again, my main concern is safety. I don't want a dangerous situation or tracks coming off when I am up on the hills here. I appreciate all the input …look for pictures tomorrow. RH
Also …I have contacted 4 different vendors regarding track chain …and only one has so far actually given me a quote. So recommendations for a vendor on these is welcome.
Hi again …if the upload is successful, here are pictures of the sprocket …as well as the idler and a glimpse at the rock guard with a bottom roller. Notice how the bushing on the rock guard bolt is worn. That is similar to how the track side of the bushings on the chain to be replaced are (that chain is at the local komatsu/dresser dealer now so no pictures on it). The other side of the dozer is still intact so no pictures on it, but the bushing on that chain are a little flat but not worn through at all. They have not been turned either. Any input here is appreciated.
For some reason that rock guard picture did not attach on that previous post, so here it is.
That sprocket is absolutely and comprehensively Donald Ducked ..... Whoever told you it was OK doesn't have much of a clue about undercarriage IMHO
Farmers, lol... if it has any teeth at all it's fine. (No offense, I come from farm stock). Yep, sprocket is toast, idler needs a reseal and that track roller the flanges are near gone. I'm going to assume since the pins and bushings are badly worn the track chain has been snaking badly side to side in order to wear the roller flanges like that? Might get by for a while by swapping some rollers around.
Ok …I do appreciate the responses and respect the opinions. So the pro's here are saying ….replace a lot more than just the chain. That hurts of course for just occasional use. But you guys know about this stuff …and that is why I asked. But what about just doing one side and not two? If I end up replacing all that is being recommended on both sides, all of you know better than me the cost of that, not to mention the trouble of doing it as a shade tree mechanic. For a piece of equipment that may get possibly a hundred hours of use in the rest of my lifetime? Not whining here ….just trying to get the proper education that is offered here. And of course, with the information I have given would any of you go to that kind of expense?
Just replace what you need to as you go, since it's just for farm use. One sprocket isn't going to be much when compared with the price of a new chain, so chain, sprocket, new pad bolts (never reuse the track shoe bolts, they stretch if they're properly tightened, stretching them again makes for some of them popping every time you work the machine). You can probably swap that single flange roller with a better one near the middle of the track frame, the idler looks like it's seeping lube so that's why I mentioned resealing it.
I will check the idler as suggested and see about pulling the rock guard and switching around the rollers. What you see on that idler might be from the tensioner, since it's seals were bad and that is how all this discovery started. BTW, I looked at the sprocket on the other side today and felt the bushings again. That sprocket looks about the same as the one pictured. Once again though, the bushings seem to have a good amount of life to them. At least according to this novice. Here goes the budget for this year! LOL
I am still struggling with making a decision here after getting several quotes. The issue now is I have been told that if I put new regular, not SALT chain, on to be able to use my old pads (nobody seems to have SALT chain that will match the bolt configuration on old pads), and I don't use it a lot resulting in the dozer sitting, I could have the new chain freeze up on me and have to have the bushings pushed out then reseated. Any thoughts on this? New salt chain means all new pads as well from the information I am being given. Thanks, RH
Anyone have any input on this recent info on dry new dry tracks rusting/freezing up if not used a lot and sitting?
It happens. If you run it a bit every week or two, clean it religiously when you use it and park it up on some wood planks under a cover, it should be fine. All the chains were dry for decades and people made do, albeit waste oil, coal oil, diesel, may have been used liberally to prevent rust, lol. I can't believe that for a G you have to change pads, what's the story?
The existing pads are straight bolt hole, 1/2 inch bolts. After many attempts I cannot find anyone that can supply SALT chain with this configuration> Hence, all new pads which then of course definitely both sides because I can't see new chain/new pads on one side working well with old chain old pads on the other. If the old pads could go on both sides, then I might get away with doing one side but again, it seems a new SALT chain is not available for my old pads. Enough to keep a man awake at night! LOL
I'd just do the sealed chain and remember to give it a short drive every weekend
Here's a thought. If the sprockets need replacing what would be the possibility of using the existing sprocket centre as a pilot and welding a sprocket rim to it a la 951C that Nitelite (and dmschultz) did not so long ago..? If that could be done then there are rectangular hole pattern Cat (or Cat will-fit) SALT chains that would most likely fit the OP's track shoes. The other alternative would be for the OP to sell his existing shoes to someone who needs them and buy some shoes with a hole pattern that fits whatever chains he can buy. The replacement shoes wouldn't necessarily have to be new ones.
Hi Nige …that certainly is a thought although delays getting this project done. Of course money savings can justify this. I will investigate possibilities on this. If I could sell the existing shoes ..and for that matter the chain that would help with the overall ouch factor.
Ok, I am going to refresh this thread a little bit and hopefully all you guys can be patient with me. I picked up my new (gulp) SALT chains, sprockets and pads yesterday and hope to get them all installed this weekend. In speaking with the service department about my old tracks they told me that they were mounted backwards and that is one of the reasons the bushings and pins wore out. Now I did not mount them originally. So for the new ones how do you know how to mount them, meaning what is front and back on the chain? It is an alligator clip chain as opposed to my previous master pin arrangement. The indication I got was that the grouser on each pad should towards the back of the chain. Is this how you know if you have it mounted correctly? Thanks again, RH
In the illustration below, imagine this is the LH track and you are looking from the side of the machine. The grouser shoe should be mounted in the orientation shown at the front end of each link.
Hi Nige, TY. Although this is the opposite of what the service department told me at the Komatsu/Dresser dealer. The way you describe this is how the old tracks were mounted. So much for their information!
Yair . . . headrc. Every thing you have been told by the fellers here is absolutely true and I feel your pain. But as I have said before poor folks have poor ways and having been there I can look at your problem from the few hundred hour angle. I would look for a used chain to go with your worn sprocket. As Nige and lantraxco mention it is stuffed but it does have teeth and for a few hundred hours no point in fitting a new chain to it. As lantraxco mentions if you can find a better roller to swap to the front that would be a good idea otherwise you could drop that roller off and build it up with weld for very little cost . . . fitting a new roller is not a particularly good idea as it will run hot from the get go because the larger diameter will make it take more weight. I should add that way back was never normal practice to discard track bolts after one use. If I was swapping plates onto new used rails I would reuse my bolts . . . we did exactly that a few years back on a Komatsu 65 and it has never been a problem. If you are working in steep country the main thing to watch is to keep you track tension on the tight side and try not to touch the steering in reverse, that is to say back up straight when ever possible and alter direction going forward. Best of luck with it all. HEY!!! I don't know what happened there! A page two with posts #16 to #25 just showed up on my screen . . . my comments are probably irrelevant. Cheers.
Hi Scrub …thanks for that input. Although I have gone ahead and bought new chain, bolts, pads and sprockets and am now just trying to get it all back together. One issue right now is putting on the new sprocket. The holes on the new sprockets are so tight when trying to attach with the old sprocket bolts, I cannot get the bolts to thread in. Hopefully once I get a 3/4" adapter for my impact wrench tomorrow that will get worked out. Then in addition, there is the issue of being told by the local Dresser dealer to mount the tracks differently then the way the original tracks were mounted. Confusing information to say the least as per Nige's previous response (which is what I am going with).
Are you saying that the non-threaded shank of the bolt won't easily fit the hole in the sprocket? If so, I suggest you stop and find out why. Paint in the hole maybe? Wrong sprocket? If you try to force things, you risk damaging the threads in the hub and then you're in trouble.
Yes, the unthreaded part is not going through the holes in the sprocket, preventing the bolts from even grabbing on the threads in the hub. The sprockets appear to be the correct sprockets, they even have stamped on them TD7G. Until I figure out out to get a bolt through them without too much force I am not going to even try to mount the sprocket. That way I prevent damage to the hub. The hub is fine at this time as I can easily screw all the bolts into it with the sprocket on. Unless advised otherwise I am going to try penetrating oil and an impact wrench just on the sprocket itself today before I go any further.
Are the sprockets painted and could the holes be full of paint that is stopping the bolts passing through the holes..? Have you compared the diameter of the holes in the old sprocket that you removed and the new one..? Are the holes in the new one significantly smaller in diameter..? Another thought for the TD7 experts. Are the holes in the sprockets "fitted" for "size bolts"..?
Sounds like sprockets produced in the land of "almost right".
Sounds like body fit bolts . Work kind of like dowl pins to keep the sprockets from working. The ones we used were 1 1/4 NF body fit in sprocket and hub with a nut on the back and we drove them in with a 10# hammer. Hard flat washers front and back c/w copper slip on washers and threads and torqued to a number I can't remember anymore. d.d.
The sprockets are not painted where the bolt holes are. I am not familiar with body bolts, these look like regular bolts but then I am not knowledgeable. I tried one yesterday, driving it in with a hammer. It is almost all the way through but then I stopped before I got into trouble/something I should not do. So I should drive them in and then mount the sprocket?
Don't know about driving them in when you'r going into a threaded hole. We drove ours through both the sprocket and hub and put a nut on the back side.Our sprockets and hubs were matched sets, drilled together and reamed together to make the bolts a press (hammered) fit. Maybe if you drove 1 bolt just into the sprocket with it off the hub ( with neverseize ) and see if it will turn with whatever you'r going to tighten them with you'd know if you can pull them down or are they too tight in the hole. Good luck. d.d.
Hi DD …yep like minds. That is what I was going to try next. Thanks
I think we need to know if the holes have to be reamed to size as suggested by DD above before going any further. If the bolts are so tight in the holes that they almost won't turn then there is no way they can be torqued correctly IMHO. Think of it this way, the bolts weren't as tight in the holes in the old sprocket as they are in the holes in the new one. Something's different somewhere and different in this case ain't right.... Question to hrc ........ Do you have (or can you get hold of) a pair of internal calipers or an internal micrometer to measure the holes in the two sprockets and compare the sizes..?
It's more than likely someone tapped the holes out one size bigger than stock, or there was an early/late design with a serial number break, if so you will need to ream/drill the new sprockets to match. As Nige sez, compare the holes with the old sprockets.
Well ain't life wonderful. The new sprockets have bolt holes .730 and of course the bolts are .750 bolts which is what the holes on the old sprockets are. I now have one bolt stuck (just past the threads) in one of the new sprockets. My impact wrench will turn it in reverse, but will not thread it out. Hammering on it with a 10 lb sledge (with wood to protect the threads) does not get it out as well. I have a hammer drill with a blunt flat blade that could probably push it through but I am not going past this point until I am confident with an approach I can achieve with tools at hand. If I knew the impact wrench would turn all the bolts in all the way I would proceed ahead but not at this time. Guess it is a "don't make them like they used to" and loving my old sprockets right now. Unless advised otherwise here I guess it is back to the Dresser dealer I go. Let them get the bolt out and ream the holes. Of course that means another 160 mile drive round trip for me and yet another day lost on this whole thing. I know you guys have had to deal with this before, but it sure is frustrating. Sure hope the new tracks aren't as big of a problem.