I have had this great old machine for about 6 years now. The operator restraint control box (ORCB) has never worked- the machine has always worked fine with the service/operate switch in the service mode. Recently, it got to where you get no solenoid click at all when attempting to start. I found that by wiggling the connector to the ORCB potted electronics, I could get it to turn over. I pulled the connector, wirebrushed the pins (lots of blue corrosion), sprayed contact cleaner, and now it does nothing. Cannot wiggle the connector to get it to start. I have the service and operator manual, but they do not mention the ORCB at all- it is not in the schematic! I want to just bypass the damn thing because I need this machine running! Can anybody suggest a simple way to convince it to work? BTW, I can turn the ignition on, hold the glow plug switch, then quickly short out the starter solenoid and get it going. I just need to get the starter switch to activate the solenoid. Maybe I'll just run a new wire from switch to solenoid!
By the way, this machine is used on my small farm, and only by me. So- I am not at all concerned with OSHA or safety issues- I know how to use the machine safely!
I'm sorry, I really know very little about these machines, but in the new posts window, your title appears as "How to bypass the operator". I naturally thought this was going to be a thread about how to eliminate 90% of equipment problems. If, when you jump the solenoid, all the other machine functions work, a new wire to the solenoid would probably do you well. A slightly more elegant solution would be to use a test light to see which wire into this box gets hot when you turn the key to start, and then use a continuity tester to see which wire goes to the solenoid, and connect them there. Depending on machine layout, it may be much easier to run a new wire straight to the solenoid. Good Luck, Mitch
hot wired it! Thanks for the reply. I tried doing what you suggest, but I was having trouble tracking down the wire from the start pole on the key switch. The schematic shows it going to a relay prior to the starter solenoid, and I have not been able to locate that relay. The relay is part of the operator lockout system apparently. Anyway, I just wired up my own momentary start switch that directly energizes the start solenoid, and all is well now! Simple is nice...
I suggest you invest in a power probe III if you need to do more repairs in the future. Best tool in the box. A little spendy though, but makes tracing wiring issues a snap. I can't remember how the older one is setup but on the LX/LS series the Starter interrupt switch essentially has to see power from the seat, then the seat belt then it will allow the power to travel through to the starter solenoid, the service switch just sends the power through a different route to bypass that part. If you find the wire going to your solenoid that is coming out of the starter interrupt box, you can directly hook your "start" wire to it, essentially bypassing the switch. Sounds like you found a quick easy way to do it though, if it works for you then no sense fixing simple.
Never heard of a power probe III- I looked it up- I think I need one! Thanks for the suggestion. Lots of different models to choose from though...