I have a 580 K that started and ran for about 40 seconds and died. I changed the fuel filters and air filters and started bleeding the fuel system, got no fuel out the injector side of the pump went thru the diagnostic chart and ended up installing a injector pump transfer or lift was working fine. new injection pump in no start has wht smoke out the exhaust. when it is given a shot of start aid it sounds like it wants to run backwards. have checked the timing 3 times
There is a wire to injection pump kept loosening on mine. You need steady 12 V positive at the terminal. Gunk in fuel, or breaking down injector pump components can clog the return to tank line. Ether makes engines fire far before top dead center, try to run backward. Make certain fuel at each point in fuel system. Open return lines at injectors, check for bubbles or fuel. Sometimes you get air in the filters & all the injector bleeding is in vain.
If u have fuel TO THE INJECTION PUMP and nothing out, good bet it’s the inj. pump.. U can try to see if the metering valve is stuck.. or if it has an electric shut off, make sure the solenoid is working and has 12v to it w the key ON.. Do a quickie search for “CAV metering valve”..that should show u how to lift the oblong top cover, what to watch out for and what the mv looks like.. the mv must move freely back and forth.. Once u get the mv free and it still doesn’t pump, chances are the pumping plungers are stuck.. The pp are deep inside the pump and not a DIY project.
Me & two sons might use the 580K. We were notorious for dropping the key in a pocket. Next person to use it would be without a key. Take the ignition switch out, move one wire, pull another loose & touch it to a different terminal, it would start & run. One day I tried to use it unaware anybody had used it. It'd start, then die. Spent an hour or more tracking down the problem. Youngest son had hotwired it & put the injector solenoid wire on the wrong switch terminal. Despite putting a new spade terminal on the pump end of the wire, it'd loosen up & fall off sometimes. Not unusual to drive down a busy highway shuttling to "the land", it'd die. Jump out, open the hood while cars screamed by at 60 MPH, put the wire back on & proceed. Finally replaced the solenoid to one using a ring terminal, that cured it.
thanks have since replaced. the inj: pump and now have fuel to the injectors. has fresh fuel, and new filters, including the air filters. have bled system to the injectors now. set the timing pin to tdc and the pump key came locked in at 12 o'clock and lined up with the key slot in the gear when I installed it. pump came from case I would assume the timed it before sending it out but under the side cover it is set at (F) not (G) am curious about this but I may try loosening the mounting bolts and rotating it some to see if it fire this way. pumpguy says it should be at tdc and 7 o'clock and set at (G), not sure how to change this.
That was for the guy who had the RoosaMaster pump..
Give me your pump number and I’ll tell u what letter the clip is supposed to b set at..
that is what I get for hijacking that thread am here now. part # FJR915882 serial # 211540194 code 50L800/1/2400
what I have done: fuel filters, air filters, filled fuel, checked for fuel at injectors and at pump, had no fuel to injectors but had fuel to INJ: pump and none out of inj: pump, check for return fuel line plugged. aligned pin for TDC, locked old pump removed old pump. reinstalled new pump, unlock new pump, bled to pump, bled to injectors got fuel to injectors. no start, have wht smoke. when start aid is given 1 small shot, sounds like it wants to rum backwards.
I am laughing at your hot wire story! With friends like that, who needs enemies? LOL Good tip on any equipment that gets lent out and used by friends and family. Funny story, thanks for sharing.
3915882...when the timing pin drops into its hole at TDC, remove the side cover plate on the pump and the flat on the C-clip should b lined up w letter “G”.. If it isn’t, all ya gotta do is loosen the hold down screws and twist the pump until it lines up.. DO NOT DO THIS WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING.!!
If “G” is nowhere in site.. the gear must have walked.. you’ll have to move the pump drive gear..
wow amazing info really is appreciated. to move the pump gear I suspect. or am pretty sure I will need too pull the front cover. will check return lines and look for what letter is showing on the pump and then go for the gear. am curious what would cause the miss alignment to begin this whole mess? I suspect the INJ: pump froze up and caused the gear to jump a tooth. thank you guys for the help
Gonna say this 1 more time, it’s very simple.. Do u have the engine turning tool.? If yes, this takes 15 minutes.!! Rotate the engine w the turning tool.. IN THE CORRECT NORMAL ROTATION.. u can find THAT by bumping the key and watching the fan.. Rotate the engine while pushing in on the timing pin.. Once the pin drops in, STOP.. Pull the side cover off the pump, 2-5/16 screws.. The pump will b full of fuel so be prepared for that.. Look inside the pump.. you’ll see a series of LETTERS.. there is also a C clip in there.. One side of the clip is flat..the other side is round.. The FLAT SIDE of the clip should be at the LETTER “G”.. You can make small adjustments by loosening the pump screws and turning the pump.. If they are out of the adjustment range, the timing cover should be removed and the gear inspected.. Good luck
got it. confirms my suspicions. now as a mechanic I am looking for the cause so as to be sure my client doesn't experience this again. I already gave my thoughts and was hoping for a little discussion on this matter. thanks thepumpguysc, I understand the procedure, and it is easy enough.
ok some new info if you have this problem start here. 1. check to see that battery is fully charged. 2. check that the engine is turning over as fast as your car or pick-up. 3. check to be sure you have fuel and it is good clean fuel. 4. check the lift pump to be sure it is working. 5. then check for fuel from the pump. 6. then if you have fuel at the INJ: pump go to the injectors. 7.if you have fuel and it is a good battery and a good starter, check your compression. 8. at this point it should start if you have good battery, good starter, fuel from lift pump and fuel from the INJ: pump and fuel at the injectors and good compression. 9. I did check the timing, with the pin in at TDC, the INJ: pump side cover the letter G was lined up with the straight edge of the cir clip. THANK YOU PUMP GUY FOR THE GUIDENCE, and info. backhoe is running and has more power than since I bought it.