to replace the rear seal can you drop the oil pan and put in the half circle seals or do you hae to pull the transmission,and go that way ?
Rear main seal You have to pull the tranny Autocar & go in from the rear.Here are a few pages out of the cummins bible.
The way td25c dose it I made a slide hammer tool with a heavy gauge sheetmetal screw on the end to pull the seal insted of loosening the oil pan & removing the rear cover.Drill a few holes in the old seal then thread in the slide hammer & jerk her out Reverse procedure on new seal.
Thanks so much on the pages on this, I built a transmission jack but every time I get under her I take a look at the tranny and man thats a hunk of heavy iron ! And I slide back out but before the summer is out I will replace her.
No problem Autocar And yep that tranny is heavy so be careful my friend.Those 855 cummins engines are one of the best things that ever happened,good power,very reliable,and cheap to repair. I run 4 of them in my fleet,I lost count on how many I worked on & overhauled.I dont need a torque wrench anymore on an 855 cummins,after awile ...well ya just know how hard to pull on the breaker bar Dang good engine:thumbsup
Quit teasing that poor seal and git the job done. I've never had one heal up without replacing it....bah ha ha good luck:cool2
I pulled the P.T.O. off today to get the bottom of the transmission flat for my jack. Pulled the drive shaft off plus carryier bearing to get enough room to slide transmission back. Unhooked p.t.o. air line plus red light when engaged. All the air lines to the transmission to shift. Got rainned out at noon but next step is to pull the stud bolts off a inverted spring that supports the back of the tranny. It looks to me like I have to pull the shifter arm out of the transmission to get enough clearance to roll the jack back to clear the spline shaft. Haven't looked at the clutch arm hook up so this will be new to me. Getting to the top of the shifter plate may turn into a circus, there is only a four inch square hole in the floor so I hope I can reach it from the rear. So thats where I am today,I also put tags on every line I unhook my mind is pretty forgetful anymore
I got the transmission pulled and backed out of the way. Removed the pressure plate and cluch disk,but can't get the [ I Think ] it is the cluch brake. It seems lose but just won't pull out,any ideas ? Everything is alot heavier then I exspected.
Sounds good Autocar.The clutch brake disc is about 6 inches in diameter and should have came out with the tranny.It rides on the mainshaft behined the throwout bering & the front of the tranny mainshaft bering.Your main clutch will have two discs,seperated by a plate in the flywheel that rides on dowel pins.It sounds like that is what you are having trouble getting out.Might spray a little "PB Blaster" around the dowel pins & use a small crowfoot prybar to work the plate out of the fly wheel.Keep us posted
be prepared when you pry out the center plate as that sucker is heavy as well and under it you will find another clutch disc
I made a slide hammer and removed the center cluch disk ,only to find out theres a another center plate like Grandpa said in last nights post. Had one H of time breaking the 7/8 inch bolts lose on the fly wheel. Removed the fly wheel heavy as triple H, I did mark it just incase there was a balance issue. Removed the rear cover No seal it looks like now I have to drop the oil pan and remove a half circle peace of iron that must hold the seal in place. Now my question will I have to loosen the crank or will that half circle peace let me slip the new seal over top the crank. Right now I am asking myself what the H did I get myself into I have run out of jacks/ropes/small chains to hold, lift, let down, ect . Heres my plan new cluch disk plates,new pressure plate while it is apart also in the fly wheel there is a roller bearing I suppose it is for the end of the transmission support shaft. I will replace that and a new throw out bearing. Any thing else ?. Is anyone surprize on the rear seal, I was exspecting a slip in one like you have on a wheel seal.
Autocar (my favorite truck btw) how did you build the transmission jack? Did you modify a floor jack? Good luck with installing your seal.
No rear main seal? I am abit baffled Autocar:beatsme,are you sure this is an 855 cubic inch cummins?Every one I was ever under used the drive in type seal, "like a wheel seal" located right behind the flywheel in a seal housing like the book showed on post # 2.Could you maybe share a picture of the engine & flywheel housing?
Buckethead I had four five inch lumber kiln cars wheel,they have roller bearings with a 1 3/8 inch shaft. I built a fram with the axles in eather end of it ,it measures 18 inches wide and 30 inches long. Then I cut a 1/2 plate for the top . Then took square stock where one would slide into the other. cut them 10 inches long and weld one [bigger box on the wheel fram, then the smaller on the 1/2inch plate making sure they still would slide togather . Put my twenty ton jack in the center and jacked it up a few inches then layed a couple short 4x6's x18 inch across. Then jacked her up to the botton of the trany. Then throw two little 1 1/4 wide nylon racet's across the transmission tieing it to the 1/2 inch plate and just rolled her back when I got her lose. The box iron acts like a guide and you can jack it up or let it down and the box iron keeps everything in line.
td25c yes the picture is correct but the seal looks to me like a dust protector to keep clutch dust away from the rear crank seal. Dose that help any ?
I need a picture to of the rear housing to comment further Autocar.
Screwed for pictures I seem not to be able to figure that out I will try it again I removed the rear cover [ 3/8 inch bolts ] wouldn't give a inch so looked around and saw four bolts on the bottom of the rear cover set on eather side, they were about two inches apart. They also held the oil pan on so I took them out [ 1/4 inch ] maybe two inches long rear cove came lose. Pulled it off and there is a seal like a front steering axle, I figure its a dust cover seal. Now I can see a peace of steel that has two ridges eather side where bolts run up though, and it cups like a u around the crank. But the head of the bolts must be inside of the oil pan, to get to these two bolts I have to drop the oil pan. Now will you comment
No comment Autocar.Best of luck with the repair.
Stop Autocar.......holy man that seal you think is the dust seal is your crank seal. Thats the one you need to replace. That cover you took off is the flywheel housing and you wouldnt of have to remove it....you could have pulled the seal and replace it with the housing still mounted to motor....That u shaped piece you see is the rear main. lol
also make sure there isnt a speedy sleeve on the end of your crankshaft ( where that seal runs) that sleeve slips off and a new one goes on if the rubbler lip on your seal has worn a groove in it.....hope this helps
Grandpa I want to change the rear mainseal it drips oil when I set for a while unloading logs with the knuckle boom. Maybe I worded my question wrong but the oil seal between the oil pan and flywheel it leaks oil where the crank comes out of the oil pan/block . Sorry if I mislead anyone but I guess we will figure it out sooner or later. SO my plan is to drop the oil pan,I will follow up with what I find.
grandpa gave some good pointers Autocar.I was searching the internet for a picture of a cummins seal housing on the engine to compair to yours and dident have any luck,then rememberd I had one on another thread.Pretty sure we have the same setup.Dont pay any attention to the 8 studs in the cummins crank & adapter plate,we added that.Scroll down to post # 3.
Yes it dose look something like that , I have to take a rear end out of my mother-in-laws lawn mower tomarrow,and it may be a few days till I get the oil pan dropped. A fellow has to keep his wife happy every now and then
I thought we had the same setup Autocar.Good luck fixing mother-in-laws mower,Id rather work on a 855 cummins then a lawn mower
Seems like alotta werk to change the pan gasket autocar....but it makes the back pan bolts more accessible....keep us posted...please.
Autocar, not wanting to climb on the back of some good help and direction, but here goes, if your rear Crank seal is leaking on an 855 it is worth with time and cost permiting, to check your Main Bearings on the Crank???, if you have removed the rear casing (Bell Housing) from the engine this will need Dial gauging back into Horizontal alighnment, after following the set mounting method, (See Service Spec) its simple to do, when re-fitting the Flywheel dont put anything but engine oil on the fixing bolts, Stud lock and other crap upset the position of the Flywheel, the twin Plate Clutch is going to need an alighnment tool or an old Shaft out of a G/Box to get things back smoothly, if you have a sleeve fitted to your Crank, they can be easily removed using a chisel and hammer used to make a light cut line across the face of the wear sleeve, making sure you dont damage the Crank, depending on what seal arrangment you use will need different installing methods??? best of luck tctractors ps. the back case is not Dowled, this needs Dial setting.
Well the riding lawn mower turned into a ten hour repair. I dropped it out from under the mower and brought it home and split it apart , four spider gears and one of the axles didn't have a nut on it and the axle just walked out of the housing. I cleaned it up and never did fine the nut ! No steel grit nothing I still can't figure that one out. It was bought new and as far as I know it has never been apart. So I put a nut on it and started putting it back togather,at the same time a friend had stopped by and was watching. He reaches down and mess with the shifter lever and I rip his ass and say don't mess with anything. Well to make a long story short I put it back togather and it moves about ten feet and locked up tight. I take it back out open it up on the tail gate of the truck and here when he mess with the shifter lever a small ball bearing that had a little spring had jumped out from under the shifter rod. I put it back under the tractor and it works fine,happy camper Monday I will drop the oil pan on the NTC and see what direction I go next.
One thing about any project you jump into your always learning something. Grandpa and td25c you guys were dead on where the seal was, I drained the oil yesturday so I would be ready to go this morning. But I reread your post and as things came togather in my mind and I sliped back under the truck and then realized the back plate is the seal. You guys were leading me down the right path but I was thinking something else. So just wanted to thank everyone who helped me out on it . Tctractors at this time I am not planning on any more repairs everything I need now to finish will run me around six hundred dollars. I have a few sawmills that owes me money for pallet logs but there in the same boot as the rest of use . There not receiveing there money eather so everyone waits.Thanks again
I forgot to mention Autocar,If you need parts or a rebuild kit for the cummins I have had really good luck with the "BTMC corp".Very reasonable on price & Seems to be a good quality rebuild kit. www.btmccorp.com/BTMC/index.html
Been a pleasure helpn Autocar,,,,OCR says if I would a hung around him when I was younger that I would be a lot sharper now. Bah ha. I got to hand it to you Autocar for having the moxy to tear that truck apart.....GRANDPA IS PROUD OF YOU!
Thanks grandpa ! the word can't has never been in my vocabulary, I can do about anything if I set my mind to it. Tomarrow I want to get my clucthes and pressure plate ,bearing and get it back togather this weekend. Thanks again for all your help.