Hi Folks, I am getting tired of paying $5.50 per gallon of diesel for my skid steer. I use it for all sorts of stuff on my property from plowing snow, grappling logs, backhoe use for planting, etc..... It didn't bother me so much when diesel was reasonable. I do not see it coming down in my area. So..... how do I get a small off road diesel tank to fill with home heating fuel. A 275 gallon tank would be fine and maybe I could just schedule it with my home heating fuel deliveries. It is just driving me nuts to pay this much for diesel. I also rent diesel wood chippers and stump grinders. I may not have high volume, but it is convenient and I think would eventually pay off. Any advice on how to do this or where to get a tank from? Thanks.
I use a 100 gallon tank and hand pump from farm store. It sits on 2x4's. Pick it up with the forks, put in truck or on trailer, go to the local bulk plant (I have keyed pump) and fill. Come home, unload. Ed
Keep in mind that not going through it in a quick fashion requires you to be diligent in treating the fuel. You don’t want issues like I had in 2022. I’m still paying the price for it 8 months later.
I was kinda thinking the same thing, a 200 gal tank to feed a skid steer and how long it would take to empty that tank, the amount of moisture that would condense? I see two other options, one mentioned above, purchase a transfer tank for your truck, I assume you do have a truck. Fill at local fuel supplier as needed. Or, you have fuel oil delivered for heat, from what I understand, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, home heating oil and #2 off road fuel is the same thing. If that's correct, install a pump in your heating oil tank to fill your skiddy as needed. Is that out of the realm of possibilities?
It's might be #1 I'd just go to the coop with 5 gal jugs and fill up if it's just a skid steer.
Yeah, depends on the area. In my area home heating oil is typically #2
Couple questions from the responses so far: 1. what is a keyed pump? 2. what is the coop? I would consider going to a supplier with two 5 gallon jugs, but I am not sure they would entertain that. I can ask. Is that usually received well? I found this tank, which seems pretty nice. https://www.leeagra.com/diesel-fuel-trailers/dt-200-diesel-fuel-tank/ I am thinking I can always use it as a reserve for my home heating fuel and pump off into 5 gallon cans and pour into my home heating tank. My home heating tanks are in my basement, so I can't really pump from those. But, I did pour about 60 gallons of diesel into my home heating tank this summer when home heating reached $6.15 a gallon. I did not want to get a delivery at that price. I used 5 gallon jugs of diesel to hold me over until home heating dropped to just over $4. So, a tank could also give me some extra room as to when I would need to take delivery, in theory.
The fill station at the bulk plant has an electronic meter. Put your "key" (really more like a chip) in, pick your pump number, and fill. The the meter records the gallons to your keyed account. Get billed at the end of the month. Since its un-manned its available 24/7. Ed
Put an empty 55 gallon drum in your truck, take it to get filled up. Bring it home, unload it with the skid loader, set it on a stand for a gravity operation (like a raise farm tank)
Look for fuel tanks on FB Marketplace and Craigslist. If nothing else, get a couple of old semi tractor fuel tanks and mount on a trailer. You can always plumb multiple tanks to one pump and isolate each tank with ball valves. Pumps are readily available in 120v, 12v and mechanical, depending on what works best for your needs. Ebay is where I purchased my last new pump. Get a biocide to treat your tanks at least once a year to prevent bacterial infection of the fuel. It's cheaper to treat than deal with the issues, don't I know!
Co-op, cooperative, where you sell grain too and they always have a few farm related items and fuel, they always have red diesel. A few more places have red diesel besides co-ops. There are several places that give you a card that looks like a credit card so you can get fuel anytime and they send you a bill, no cc chargers that way. I used a 55 drum to fill my rig for a short while, it actually works rather goo and I bought a 13v transfer pump for $20 and put a short garden hose on it. Worked enough till I got a transfer tank in the pickup bed.
I have a transfer tank mounted to a heavy duty pallet. It sits in my truck some of the time and otherwise I use it as a skid tank off of the truck. The pump is wired with high amperage quick disconnect so I can power it off the truck when in the bed or I made up a jumper lead with the quick disconnects on one side and battery clamps on the other to use when the tank is out of the truck. Very handy!
A used 350 gallon UN 31Y IBC makes for a great, often low cost, fuel storage tank. Can even get them in SS.
These Western Global Trans-Cubes are what all the cool kids are using. Very popular with my customers. Double walked with a lockable lid. Pump & filter is protected under the lid. Many sizes. Can even get them lined for 100LL service.
https://www.foxnews.com/us/californ...ons-of-diesel-fuel-in-a-minivan-officials-say We can laugh at this guy, but he might have been legal with two barrels. Certainly would get away with it in most places. If you'll use the fuel and don't want to haul yourself, or don't have an off road fuel pump available locally, then another 275 gallon tank filled when you fill your heating oil is a good option if you want that much storage. I'd keep the outside tank reasonably close to your house if possible, so you can siphon the older fuel into the basement tank before you refill. 100' of plastic hose is cheap enough and will move the fuel easier than using cans, even if it takes a whole day. If you don't want to store an extra 275 gallon, then I'd rig a pump from the basement out, it could be a suction diaphragm pump outside to pull out of a plastic line fished into the vent.
It's legal to bulk haul diesel as long as it's a transfer tank and not a fuel tank. It does remind me of a story of a guy using a minivan full of 2.5 oil jugs filled with diesel to fill a rig up.
I've had great results purchasing things like this from Facebook Marketplace. I picked up a 500 gallon tank in great shape with a 12 volt pump on it for $150 about an hour away. I've seen 275 tanks available for free to haul away. Depends on how quickly you need one. Use caution hauling fuel, I'm not fresh on current rules but back when I was driving regularly you were permitted up to 300 pounds of hazardous material before you need placards and logs, that's just 40 gallons of fuel oil. Fines are big!!
...that's why you use an un-modified 55 gallon drum to haul. It's normal to haul them in your truck as a regular load. This is my 300 gallon tank, I made the platform & roof structure for it, fuel oil truck delivers it, let him pump it up there. Even welded up a ladder on the opposite side to access the top filler. Gravity dispenses, no pumps, no electricity needed. It is a bit too large, as I only fill it about every 3 years, so am running the risk of bacteria. Hence the recommendation for the OP to simply carry the 55 gallon drum to the vendor, and then lift it with the skid steer and set in on a rack for gravity dispensing. I would have a local fab shop roll some rings out of 1/8" x 2" flat strap with a 90 bend at the ends to clamp onto the barrel, with a loop welded to each one for a lifting strap. Don't weld the loop directly on the barrel, that is modifying.
In the area where I live the fuel vendors quite often have used fuel tanks for sale. My nephew owns a farm and got one for free, provide he purchased fuel form the vendor.
As stated above, keep in mind how much you use in a give amount of time. I used a 55 gal drum with hand pump for my farm storage for a few years. Over time I stated to have issues with my fuel. Turns out that I wasn't using enough over time to keep it fresh even with treatment. I now find that a 15 gal portable tank seems to fit my need much better and easier to haul in and out of truck for re-fill in town. Just giving my 2 cent worth...
I have a friend who uses this pump to pump out of his home heating fuel tank. He says he researched it deeply and even though it is not meant for fuel, it has a nitrile impeller. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...18-2-0Ah-Battery-2771-20-48-11-1820/313792654
Columbo, that is a pretty sweet set up. How many gallons is that?
@clydesdale6 its a 100 gal tank. My excavator holds 65 gallons so it’s about as small as I would want to go. I bought the tank and pump used, I think I have about $500 or $600 into the set up. The ability to filter fuel from the tank was a must for me.
Not a big deal to put a diamond diesel placard on a tank. It's so if you're in an accident they know what they're dealing with. Using an unmarked container like a 55 gal. drum is asking for trouble. Transfer tank is the easiest and safest way but any container needs to be either bolted down or securely strapped in. Not sure when it became illegal but you can't carry bulk quantities of gasoline. Diesel isn't considered flammable. There are double wall transfer tanks but I'm not sure if they can be used to carry gasoline. It might be OK if it's just to go from the pump directly to farm, work site, etc. where it will be unloaded. I bought a 65 gal. half round slip tank and a manual Fill-rite pump and it was one of the best things I ever bought, especially when doing snow removal in the middle of the night. I found a 12V pump on sale and upgraded several years ago.
I think you can carry up to 119 gallons of RUG or 100LL under federal rules. State rules often vary. The trick is to try and find a slip tank rated rated for gasoline. Or, get around that by using drums that have a UN# on them ( approved packaging). I’ve never seen an UN31Y rated IBC small enough. Those Global Industry Trans Totes are rated for RUG and they make a cute one that fits in a pickup bed. I see many slip tanks in my area packing around 100LL. They never get hassled by the man. Probably because people driving around in new Dmax’s and King Ranch Superduty’s enroute to top off their Super Cubs probably have a get out of jail card.
Hold on, everyone. Let me ask my Safety & Compliance Officer what our SOP is for hauling gasoline. Duh,.... She says we can load no more than two drums. The drums have to be new. (Can’t fill customer drums). Proper labels, no placards. And shipping papers. IDK? Tell me if this is wrong. I’m not going to argue with her. Look at that dedication. She’s off the clock but keeps her safety vest ready for go time.
I've seen 165 gal. slip tanks. The double wall tanks might be approved for gasoline but they're expensive. I believe there is a limit on how much you can carry. I also think transfer tank means just that, for transferring fuel from point A to point B and not constantly carrying it.
Have heard of some people using dyed diesel in their slip tank to run their pick up. They hide the fuel line as best as possible and if they get checked the truck tank has road fuel. Big fine if they get caught though.
Heard years ago that the IRS is wise to that, and simply sections the fuel filter to look for dye. First offense is $10k
If your transferring gas over 5 gallons it has to have a label on it saying something it's approved by dot to transfer gas. I know a few people caught because we use gas in oilfield to clean stuff and it was common to have 20-30 gal gas tanks in the pickup. They had to unload the tank and was no fine or ticket. This is the pump I used to transfer diesel. If you don't do it much it's a great deal. I plan on using it to fill hydraulic tanks from a drum next. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3047055566...CwcNtyT3/ekJuCfhdSu9IUTH8d|tkp:Bk9SR5CnlIK6YQ
This is a cool slip tank we built for home heat delivery for a private remote island. Named the rig Felicia, because Bye Felicia. What a relief to see it leave. I don’t recall the capacity, but the weight was about 80% of the payload rating for the new 3500HD. Later, the terminal manager lost the vented cap and used a regular pipe cap. The vapor pressure delta was enough to split a bottom weld and all the fuel fell out. Lots of bad decisions were made for that entire project, but people were cold and a once annual barge timeline was short.
I fount this tank, which seems decent. https://www.jmesales.com/110-gallon...ular-refueling-transfer-tank-w-optional-pump/
Update: I purchased a 106 gallon aluminum transfer tank. The question now is, what is a economical smart pump choice with filter? I am looking for something simple. I even thought of a hand pump, but those don't seem to be cheap at all. The Filtrite hand pump is about $200. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks.
I would recommend a piston pump. That is one that you push and pull the handle. It is moves fluid a lot faster than a rotary pump. I don't care for rotary pumps because they tire ed my arm when I had to pump a lot of gallons.
Hand pumps are fine, as Tinkerer said get the push pull kind. Or just get electric, I think they wind up being a couple hundred more than the hand pumps, not really much price difference in the big picture.
Get electric if you will use this tank a lot, you already have a bunch wrapped into this tank why not more?
I was thinking hand pump, thinking it would last longer. This will be outside and I don't want it to go bad. I don't mind paying for a decent pump. Just not sure what is the best move for light use. Some things go bad from lack of use. Cousin of mine mentioned a Makita battery pump for $300. That is what he uses.
You'll be much happier with an electric pump if you fuel much. Anything over 20 gallons transferred gets to wearing on the operator. I always have a generator with me and my "Gasboy" pump is 120VAC and the hoses and filler neck operate just as a service station does including automatic shutoff when full.
I think a hand pump will last as long as an electric, it's really close to the same thing even though it's not, the only thing that would not last on the electric is the wires, which are easy to change and and replace, an also will still last a long time.
Time is money. Electric with an auto-shutoff nozzle allows you to grease while fueling. Size your pump GPM to your needs. If you don't pump more than 10 gal/week, then you might want to consider a hand pump. Electrics last fine in the weather and I think they are easier to rebuild than the manual ones I've had. I went with a 30 GPM pump on my service truck to cut down on wasted refueling time. I usually have to pump 80-175 gal depending on which machine. Saving time saves money and pays for the upgraded performance. Be sure to filter your fuel at every transfer point.
Or do like I did and install a "power inlet" so there is no cord. With my setup the male end plugs into the generator receptacle and the female end plugs onto the male spades of the plug of the inlet. Regular extension cord is what I use mostly. Weather tight when not in use.
Pre-Covid, we had a corporate strategy to provide “ value added” services to our fuel customers. So, we placed many portable tanks and did keep full service. I purchased many dozens of Fillrite and GPI-Pro pumps. I had better success with GPI-Pro in the long run. Especially in cold weather. GPI had better customer service, too. My $.02
I am a sample of 1, but I think the Fillrite pumps are better than the GPI. I have both and prefer Fillrite. Thats just me.
Home heating oil is not always colored is all. Same fuel!
Check with your supplier. Here they will not deliver under 300 gallons and there is a 25 cents a gallon delivery charge on up to 500 gallons.
Around my area "Off road" red dyed fuel is readily available at gas stations. It is supposed to be cheaper than road fuel, but last summer it wasn't always.
Here local there is red fuel at the pump for the school busses, fire trucks, and slip tanks. It isn't much cheaper at the posted pump price, as the state requires sales tax on pump fuel. If you charge with the station's own card and have a tax exemption form on file, the sales tax is deducted from the monthly billing.
I've not seen red fuel available at point of retail sale, (gas stations) myself in Illinois. I purchase off road fuel at the local oil distributor and it is about .30 off per gallon compared to retail price diesel at the station. Kind of hard to know sometimes but the delivery driver will call me when the price is going to jump so I can top off if needed.
Hand pump may be a "no go". I spoke with Fill Rite and the hand pumps do not do well with filters. I would like a filter.
For a hundred gallon tank that will sit in one place, and go through one or two fills a year, I'd use a hand pump and keep it a few inches off the bottom, with the tank sloped to the drain, and don't fill from it for a couple days after you fill it to let it settle.
Given the high cost of repairs to today's fuel injection systems there is no way I'd have a slip tank without a filter plus water absorption. Half full tanks make water.
My portable fuel tank is a skid mounted, caged 275 gallon home heating oil tank layed on it's side with bungs welded into the sides for the pump, fill port, and on the other side which is the bottom, a drain spigot. The filler neck is vented to preclude rain entrance. It does set at a slightly nose down attitude but it doesn't stay in the truck unless needed so moisture isn't a problem. I know you are not supposed to carry over 115 gallons without a permit, but I've never had any trouble with it. I usually keep red fuel in this and it's come in handy a lot over the years. The suction tube is just about an inch from the bottom and there is a spin on three micron filter/water separator on the fuel output hose.
I plan to leave this tank on a small trailer that I can move around with our quad. My idea is that if the fuel has been sitting around too long, I will pump it into the house oil tank. I usually get fuel deliveries twice a year, I will fill this tank at that time. But, I feel strongly that it needs to be filtered.
I think I may have narrowed my pump choice down to two different Fill Rite pumps. One is standard duty. Here are the two below. Any experience or thoughts. This will be for a skid steer, small Kubota tractor and back up for house tank so that I may try to avoid buying home heating fuel during a time when prices are psycho. 12V DC 13 GPM Fuel Transfer Pump with Nozzle Fill-Rite's 1200 Series of heavy-duty fuel transfer pumps feature simple installation with a rotatable junction box and are built to last with cast-iron construction. www.fillrite.com click on the 1210h, which is the manual nozzle option in the below link FR1200 Series Fill-Rite's 1200 Series of heavy-duty fuel transfer pumps feature simple installation with a rotatable junction box and are built to last with cast-iron construction. www.fillrite.com Also, if you suggest the 1210 pump, is it worth it to buy the diesel auto pump or is the cheaper manual pump better for my intended use. Thanks folks.
I see lots of those red Fill-Rite pumps on farm tanks. Don't really see except occasionally the aluminum ones on slip tanks. I like the automatic shutoff nozzle myself as don't like to babysit, or hold the fuel nozzle while it's working. This stuff can be had less expensive than those prices too by shopping around. Look at your farm supply stores to start.
For the amount you'll use it the standard duty Fill Rite pump is fine. If you have to use the pump in freezing conditions the auto nozzles that come in the kit are junk. They will not work if it gets below about 5-10C. Not that they won't shut off, that they won't pump at all. I got tired of having to take my auto nozzle off to fill machines so I could clear snow. I replaced it with a manual nozzle that works all the time. Have to watch so you don't overflow when filling but much better than having to take the damn thing off. There is an Arctic auto nozzle but they are quite pricey. I got my 13 GPM pump on sale at a farm store for almost $200 less than a large industrial supply was selling them. Exact same thing. Also helps to get a longer hose so you don't have to be so close to the tank or you have a tank up high like on some machines like a grader.
My auto shutoff nozzle is a "Wolf's Head" IIRC and works in any temperature trouble free. You see them on a lot of gas stations around this area. I don't know what it cost as it's a few years since the purchase but I don't think it was over $50.00. The "Gasboy" pump was from the same vendor which is a petroleum marketing outfit. I wouldn't mind having a 12VDC pump, but this one was given to me and I always carry a generator. My tank fuels a lot of combines and large tractors during harvest and I have three 10' sections of hose which couple together with barrel type clamps. No tools and stick the male hose into the female hose and roll the handles down. The tank is usually set into the truck bed, filled, hoses coupled together and flushed, and stays that way till harvest conclusion. Works pretty slick in reality having fuel when needed rather than calling for the fuel truck and hope they get there timely to maintain progress.
Welder Dave, just to clarify, are you saying these things struggle to pump at 0 celcius, 32 degrees? Or even -10celcius or 14 degrees? If so, that is a problem. At 32 degrees, it MUST pump. 14 degrees a little easier to plan around, but where I am, 32 degrees can happen for 1-2 months consecutively. I need to clarify this because if it is problematic below 32 degrees, then I would have to go with the manual. 1693ta, thanks. I do see these can be bought for far less on Amazon.
If you let that fuel sit for extended periods, you might also want to consider a biocide treatment at least once a year. I had an episode with that stuff a few years back. Annual or 6 mo maintenance dosages keep everything in check. I've been using Biobor JF that I purchase on Amazon with good results. No repeat outbreaks since. You will get black, clogged filters if you get an infection in your fuel tanks.
Probably go with the manual l, I think I have the heavy duty fillrite and used the same over the years. I went with the auto because I have spilled a lot over the years and I'm not impressed, it's finicky. I would buy a better quality auto if you want one, the manual is fine just baby sit it
Great info guys. Can you control the manual to slow it down to a near trickle or is the thing essentially an on off trigger?
I can slow my manual nozzle down with the lever. No problems overfilling if you’re careful.
I don't remember, we always stuck something in it to make it hold open for us.
Many auto stop nozzles fail in cold weather. Pain in the butt. Some of the fuel contracts require auto stop. I’ve had fair luck with this one. At $199 a pop. HUSKY | 651910-03 | VIIIS HEAVY DUTY DIESEL COLD WEATHER NOZZLE
The auto nozzle that came in my Fill Rite kit was such a pain when it was below freezing temps. I'd have to take it off and just stick the hose in the tank I was filling. Some people have stuck the nozzle in their exhaust pipe to warm it up so it will pump. That's a PIA too. The nozzle also drips no matter what you do before you hang it back on the pump. The back window of my truck was always dirty because of the dripping diesel attracting dirt like a magnet. Look on the internet, there's lots of complaints. There are better auto nozzles that work in the cold but they are pricey like Coaldust mentioned.
I have the same issue when it gets real cold. I am "stick the nozzle in the tail pipe" guy. While it would be good if Fillrite used the more expensive nozzle, I don't blame them for the nozzle.
Thanks guys. I will go with the manual nozzle. I spoke with tech support at Fill Rite, who was very helpful, and I will be going with the heavy duty 15gpm pum. The heavy duty pump comes with a telescopic pickup tube, rather than PVC that you cut, a longer hose, and better warranty. There was some other mild differences, that I don't recall, but that was enough for me to chose it over the standard duty pump. I think I am also going with the filter linked below. Overall, I think the set up could be considered over kill for my needs, but I could not find a different solution that I was comfortable with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009KGAR26/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AX0XA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
I've had that filter and not a fan, I just use the regular spin on type. The clear housing yellows and also like to leak over time. You also have to clean it during filter changes and I never used the drain function. I guess it might be handy idk and it's nice to see if the filter is plugged but you will know because it will take forever.
Did it leak from the bottom petcock or at the base? BTW, I just discovered that I can save about 10% by purchasing the pump and filter from Tractor Supply instead of Amazon.
I use the Cim-Tek 450 series with a 10 micron filter.
Both I think, I bought my own recently as the previous were from a place I worked at. I got mine from home Depot online and was a really good buy. I use the cimtek filter till it's done then screw on a Baldwin equivalent, I think it's still 10 micron you can get higher or lower irc.
I ended up ordering the pump and the filter from Tractor Supply, cheaper than Amazon. But, I may end up returning the filter before even opening the box. I sort of misread the description and I thought it was a water separator. I don't believe it is. It is a "hydrosorb" filter. Anybody know if they make an actual water separator that works on auxillary tanks and pumps? Thanks.
I would think a hydrosorb would be a water absorbing filter, rather than a water separator. It will be more effective than a separator, but will be disposable, once it's absorbed it's limit of water, it's done.
Just buy a filter with a drain on the bottom.
I've been using Napa 4389 or Wix 24389 that have a water separator bowl on the bottom. I've been using these filters for over 25 years on all of my transfer tanks with really good results.
That Wix appears to be the same as Baldwin b10-AL. That is the way they describe it in this link and it looks exactly like the Goldenrod that I ordered on Amazon. I went with the Goldenrod over the Fill Rite because they appear to be the same but the replacement filters are a bit cheaper and most importantly, it uses 3/4 thread instead of 1 inch, so I don't need any reducers or adapters. I have noticed elsewhere that the Wix appears to be same as Baldwin. The Baldwin looks just like the Goldenrod? If so, I don't think it really is a separator, but a "hydrosorb" type filter instead. At the moment, I am leaning to sticking with the Goldenrod coming from Amazon, unless something better comes to light soon. Thanks!!
Tank is aluminum so really anything will be fine.
I had a Goldenrod brand filter many years ago with a plastic outer housing. The sunlight destroyed it, it cracked and was tossed. I never went back to that brand again because of that. Once I standardized with the Napa/Wix filters, and they worked well, I've always stuck with the same in order to stick to one filter number for several different pour points. I run up to 30 GPM with a single filter without problems. JMHO, YMMV.
OK. If I go Goldenrod, I will definitely keep an eye on it. Thanks. My next question about the drain on the tank. This is an auxiliary tank and I did see some installations in truck beds that have a ball valve inserted where the drain plug is. That got me thinking, which could be bad. Maybe I want a ball valve drain, rather than the plug. I would make sure the drain valve is protected from impact. But, is this a good idea, bad idea, not needed, not smart, ect?
Use the ball valve and put a plug in it for safety. That will allow to the remove the plug and open the valve without getting any liquid all over.
If you need to drain the tank you pump off the fuel, tip the tank over to get rid of the excess fuel, then tank the tank in fir repair. You will never use the drain so just plug it. The clear golden rod filter is a huge pain to change btw and makes a mess every time.
I might be thinking about this wrong. But.....would water settle to the bottom and then you could drain it off, or will the water be below the plug? I was thinking the golden rod would not make such a mess because you could open the bottom and drain it. But, thank you for the heads up.
If the tank sets for a long time you can drain the water, but if you ever move the tank the water will suspend back into the diesel. It's the same as water in engine oil. The clear filter sucks because you have to clear the cartridge going down so the filter has to have a good 6" or whatever under it to change the filter and the drain is not fast so you drain like an inch or two and pull the bowl and hope not to tip it over trying to clear the cartridge. I can't remember if you have to run brand name filters while every filter head I've used you had a big pick of brands types sizes and micron size. If you have low use and are worried about water put a valve that's handy under the tank and drain the water off before pumping. Keeping the tank full also helps.
I think you are correct. I doubt I will use the drain and it might become a potential leak point. I will keep it when it arrives and if I need to drain, I will pump it off, remove the plug, then install the valve and and a hose to hopefully get the fuel where I want it. Thanks. At this point, I am going to mount this thing on a pallet and hopefully the pump will arrive at tractor supply. Thank you to everyone for the help.
I'm just glad you went aluminum, that takes care of a bunch of problems the rest is relatively minor after that.
I don't have a pic handy at the moment, but I got my tank just about done. I mounted it to a pallet, added swivels to the hose ends and got 100 gallons delivered. I am just finishing up the wiring now, waiting on heat shrink from Amazon. I have the room and decided to keep the tank in a garage. I imagine this will cut down on the condensation issues, as opposed to be sitting in the sun and going through big temperature fluctuations. My question now is, what treatment should I add to it? I have added outboard 2 stroke mix to my truck's fuel. I imagine I can add to this for the skid steer and tractor. But, is there anything else that is recommended for fuel storage? Thanks.
Man i can't think of anything for diesel for storage. Project farm has a good video on treatments for gelling and lube. I pretty much add power service year round.
I have another question regarding this set up. It is an aluminum tank, mounted on a pallet and in my garage on concrete. The directions want a ground wire mounted to vehicle or a grounding rod. This is not in a vehicle and a grounding rod is not possible here. Is grounding it really necessary and if so, any good ideas? Thanks.
Grounding vs bonding. It’s a often mis- understood topic in the fuel handling biz. In that application a bonding wire on a reel would be used between the tank and the rig being fueled. Depending upon company policy. More importantly used when transferring gasoline. Mandatory on any product when used at an airport as per NFPA 107. With gasoline, we use hose with a static bonding wire build into the assembly, tested and certified annually.
Bonding is to make sure everything is the same voltage. You can use jumper cables until you get a reel. I've never bonded my tank which is in my pickup to my rig, but I only fill diesel. It would be a really good idea for gas.
Interesting. The Fill Rite manual does not discuss bonding. It wants a grounding wire to the vehicle or to a grounding rod for stationary tank. Mine is stationary, but grounding rod is not really possible in my concrete garage floor.
I use a steel plate or a piece of whatever clean scrap steel and lay it on the ground or slab and a jumper cable if I’m particularly being “safe” or if the humidity is low or non-existent. Especially with meth, 100LL or RUG.
What is the power supply for the pump?
I will likely use a vehicle in the garage for the power supply. I might use the skid steer that is getting fueled for a battery supply at times also. In speaking with Fill Rite, they suggest grounding to the chassis of the vehicle you are getting power from. So, I ordered 25 feet of 12 gauge green wire and some alligator clips. I will make a grounding wire that I can leave coiled up on the tank.
Yeah that will work just fine