Okay, this had been setting for at least two decades. I had seen it but never questioned the lady what her plans were for it. I finally got up the courage and asked Her. She asked who wants it. Told Her I’d like to have it, what will You do with it? Told her get it home, do the maintenance, tune it up and try to put it to work. Her response was, I’ll just let You have that. About a month of packing tools and lubes down a hill and back up and figured it was ready to start after cleaning and flushing the gasoline tank. Installed a fresh battery, pushed the switchover lever down, cranked for quite a while but then pretty soon some smoke, several more tries and it was running on gasoline. Could not get it to switch over without stalling. With it running on gasoline mode bled out the injectors, finally got fuel and tightened the line nuts back down. It popped right off on diesel. Tried reverse, it would not steer. Got the owners book, had to do major steer clutch adjustments. Now it steers and then the day comes my son is not working so we bring it off the hill. Having never run a dozer before that hill was a little intimidating. LOL There are several more videos in my youtube channel
According to the serial numbers it woukd be a 1953.
I seen your videos, what river is that ?the Snake, Pretty country
I could see this much of the dozer from where it used to set. For all the years I had wondered about it I always thought in my head that it must be a Cat D-6 but was really hoping for a D-4 LOL I am very happy with this IH though. Now if only I could find some work for it. Is there any precautions of moving snow with the IH dozers, such as track and rollers icing over or some such ?
That is the Yellowstone River at Miles City Montana. The bridge is Highway 59 north to Jordan Montana, about 85 miles. My house is located at the lower end of the bridge and going away kitty corner to the right about two blocks. Growing up that river was our play ground.
I would like to Take the dozer over the river dike, up stream from the bridge and churn over that gravel bar. As youngsters we would pick Montana agates out of that gravel, take them to the rock shops and sell them. I know there has to be a ton or two more of agates if the bar was turned over just a little bit. I bet F&G and EPA Would have a hay day with that. LOL
Only if you get caught! LOL
Too many snitches! Covid showed how much people love their power and some people would and will rather on their own mother.
Yup, and that crap is running rampant.
Your name/handle remind me if when my brother was living in Minnesota. Trying to come up with some good viking names. Last name being Draper, he come up with Oarlock druhperskey. And so for a ling time after when he would call, or I’d call him, we would call each other Oarlock. Laff
Got another book. Parts book. Back cover says it is a 1948 but it appears that they must not have changed much for the lineup of parts. I will keep looking for a 1953 or 1954 parts book and repair book too.
The book
A lot has been happening with this dozer. Was changing fluids, got them all done but the coolant. Radiator has a load of rust in it. Today got a three gallon bucket of evaporust and then was cleaning the radiator hose mounting flanges and tapping the threads for the bolt holes and looking at the lower tank, where all the rust has settled, I think its going to take more than three gallons to fill that tank so, ordered in a five gallon bucket of the stuff. Now waiting for that to arrive. The firewall was cracked all to pieces. The air cleaner also bolts to this and it is heavy. Ground out the cracks and welded them back in. Ground it back to flat then drilled it full of holes for plug welds. Cut a 1/4” plate to fit then plug welded it. And the plate. Plate is plug welded then along the perimeter, except the corners, welding corners helps to promote cracking. Also ground off all the heat blued steel, carbon pulled to the surface, creates real hard positions that also promotes cracking.
With the air filter. There was no oil cup on the air filter, could not find one but a friend has a TD-14 and let me measure depth and oil level. Found an old freon cannister and sawed it off. I needed 9” diameter and I thought this would be it. Left the bead on the cup side. Found out the cup was 9-1/2” ID so it needed a shim job. Sawed off the band as the cup needed to be about 6” deep, then cut a piece out of that band do it would git inside of the cup. Then drilled the cup for plug welds. And so how it looks after adding some beads 3” below the band line to mark the oil level, and, sealed the cup inside and outside with the right stuff so it cant leak air around the seams.
Firewall back into position, bolted back in with the main mounting bolts and gauges attached. And one of these spacers was not on the machine. The original one that was there has seen better days so made two. Thats about all phor now.
You get snow build up between track chains & sprocket. Makes chains too tight, they make a popping sound. They sell track shoes with holes in center to let the snow squeeze out. My TD7G has some wear in the chains, I've never had a problem. A fellow 100 miles north of me has the same tractor, he put new undercarriage on his, has the snow shoes with holes. I've seen a lot of logger's crawlers holes cut with a torch. You want a template to get as smooth a cut as you can, any irregularity in the hole enables cracking in the shoe.
Sometimes in deep snow, no matter what you do an ice rind will build on every track bushing thus severely tightening the track chains. At this point the sprocket can skip on the chain, this will really get your attention. Here is an extreme example, walking a 135 through 3' of spring snow..
When I was working tracks in snow, I would spray diesel on them.
Good idea, may prevent that ice coating from getting started in the first place.
I wonder about RV antifreeze ? Environmental friendly stuff.
Or maybe even canola oil? I thought of that as we bought several 30' lengths of heavy duty (cam-lock Goodyear 4") petroleum hoses that came out of the port of Vancouver. They were used to pump canola oil into tankers. I had to raise them up in the air with the 210 and let them drain out on the ground on a hot summer day. I wondered what to say if our mines inspector showed up....this is an edible vegetable oil---look here I will drink some as proof lol! That being said if you are just plowing snow occasionally you likely won't even have an issue. It seems the track chains bind up the worst when the snow is right around the freezing point. Looks like you are making good progress on the machine!
Like in a diesel engine snow contains heat. Compress 1 cubic foot of snow into 1 cubic inch, 1728 cubic inches into 1, ever so briefly, it gets warm. It starts to liquify, then refreezes. I haven't tried oil, it seems promising.
Remember in snow dozer tracks only have traction going forward and reverse, and will slide sideways down a hill. They should have the ice lugs or grousers to prevent that.
Loggers working steep land use "corks" (caulks). Short pieces of grouser stock are cut 1/4 the width of a track shoe. Two are welded increasing the height of the grouser at each end of one shoe 1/2 " from the end. Next shoe gets one in center of the grouser. Cures the skating on side hills. I remember one big logging company buying 10 dozers in one purchase. They were delivered directly to the woods without being caulked. The drivers talked about rolling them over frequently: "Either way, you need new pants! Either battery acid, or **** on them. You don't roll a crawler down the side of a mountain without one or the other." In the late1940s my uncle was killed this way.
That's for sure...they will take off fast. Most equipment up here is (as Willie B says above) corked.
Radiator is yanked. That loader stalls on a 500 pound lift. I had to push upwards on the boom for the radiator to clear the dozer blade. Heated the tank to get the pressure regulator valve bolt to let loose. Hooked the pressure regulator to my air compressor, adjusted the pressure to five PSI. Held the outlet tube over a bucket that has some oil innit. Increased the pressure to eight and no movement on the oil, then up to ten PSI and then there was movement on the oil surface. Guess it must be about a nine or ten PSI pressure relief valve. Lots of green. Called a radiator shop. Gave the core measurements, he said May 2025 they did one similar. $1500.00. I aint got the money. This one was not leaking but it was not building pressure. I’ll just run the evaporust into the lower tank, flush it clean and run this radiator until it wont run some more. I’ll not seal the cap so it wont build pressure. Is that advisable ,
Did I mention, a farmer north of my town has two of these dozers, in pieces. He said they are all there, I’ve heard that before. One is a TD-14A and the other is a 14B. I asked whats the difference, he said the B has a six cylinder engine. A week from this Friday, the son and I going to take a look at them. Son said if they are worthy he would make the purchase. I need parts. If there is a better radiator that would be worth more than the price of both those machines. Mine is going to need a hydraulic pump input shaft at some point in time. The PTO shaft is hollow except right at the harmonic balancer. There is a grease zerk next to the HB, one complete and one busted off. The only grease in that tube was the half dozen shots it got from me before I initially fired it up. Before going back together, the hollow of that shaft will get packed full and then greased on a very regukar basis in hopes the splines dont fail. Maybe one of those up north dozers might have pump and pump shaft adapter in better condition.
Rechecked the relief valve. Pops off at about 8 PSI. Found the specs in the book. It says should pop at 7 PSI. That will work. The radiator cap affair. Tighten the bolt to keep the cap tight. Loose the bolt and the clamp will slide through its slots then the cap disk can come off. There were no gaskets or sealers in the adaptor nor on the cap disk so it was not holding pressure. I’ll keep it that way to keep from loosing a bunch if coolant, for niw, until I can afford a new core. There was dirt packed into and between the radiator fins and tubes. I was blowing those out with the blow gun. A lot of dust, had a kind if a weird smell. Pretty soon I was coughing, like a dummy, not wearing a respirator mask, I do have some good ones, had to take a couple of decongestants to get the cough to subside. Not doing that again. Thats all for today.
Some liquid petroleum spillage under the dozer. Fresh new crushed rock on the driveway. Got under there, yesterday, with the business end of the shop vac and sucked up the gravel, rocks, sand and dirt that had spillage applied to it. Into the garage with that. I have a kitchen type sieve that I use to classify gravel from sand for gold panning in the Yellowstone river. Classified the dirt and sand from the gravel. Gravel dumped into one bucket, dirt and sand into another. Not sure what to do with the dirt and sand, yet. The rock and gravel going to get warshed with water and detergent, then rinsed. I then can put the rock/gravel back down and the city sewer division said that no more petroleum that will be in that water to just run it down the toilet. Five gallon bucket of evaporust will be here tomorrow, then I can finish up the radiator and get that set back in place, but, might wait and see what condition the radiator is in thats on one of those two parts dozers. Save the best for this unit.
To remove the fan belt. A set screw in the pulley outer sheave, removed that screw the give the threads a good shot of deep creep penetrant. Against those tab looking affairs with a drift punch and a 3 pound hammer, pulley sheave spun easily. Got it backed all the way off and the fan belt easily removed. Had to remove the fan bkades in order to get the generator belt off. Both belts are mighty dry, cracked and most likely are going to fail afore too much longer. That shaft nut with the slits is for coolant pump packing. If the pump develops a leak, tighten that nut a turn, maybe less. Too tight will burn and destroy the shaft. There is also two grease zerks thats for keeping the bearings and the packing lubed.
Five gallon bucket if evaporust cleaned that mess of the lower radiator tank. This is a 1/4” double flare pipe adapted to my old blow gun. Unscrew the rubber tip then this screws right on. Bent it 90 to get some good agitation going through the radiator drain plug hole. Filked the radiator then install a home made cap adapter, air chuck fitting onto that then the pressure regulator. Aired it to six PSI where the pressure relief valve was letting loose and no leaks, none watsoever. Drained all that out and then refilled, agitated, agitated whilst draining, refilling and repeat. Six refills to the top of the lower tank. The last drain iff, agitation and this is what that produced. Then it was dealing with broke bolts. Five in all. Got those all five removed and radiator is ready.
Jacked up the dizer blade a good amount. Extended the shop floor and the floor crane laigs and lift boom. Up and over. Got it pinned. All the bolts are in and tight. It was getting near to sunset so put the garage floor extensions back onto their storage area And called it done for a day.
Now to get it all hooked back together. And this thing shrunken back down, folded up and put away. I installed an extra set of casters under this floor crane. Then sawed off the legs and fabricated a set of hinges for each side. When the legs are down there is three 3/8ths bolts goes through each hinge plate and nutted so no bolts can slide out. it folds up to a mighty compact size and fits snugly against a wall. I’ll get some good pics of the hinges if anyone has such a hoist and wants to make theirs into a folder.
The hinge points. Cut legs. Folded up. Against the wall.
Special note : The extra casters to keep it from tipping nose down.
Is it just me or do you blow the picture up and look from corner to corner, to see if there is other interesting stuff, or how better you feel, because you may be neater and more organized. Love the subtle message, sharpied on the wall, about the thermostat!
Hydraulic control valve was a leaker. It was a lot worse but started scraping and scrubbing before i thought to getta pic. All apart. Local machine shop had chevron seals that fit. They apparently are a little thicker as I could get in only one chevron instead of two. The valve is slightly grooved so chucked it into the lathe and emory clothed it to remove any rough extrusions that might rip the chevrons or backers. All back together. Before the new chevron seals the valve shaft would nearly free spin. Now there is a fair amount of tension when trying to turn it. If this new single chevron leaks then I’ll be shopping for a steel shell double lip seal of the proper dimensions and put one of those in there. See how that works.
Dozer is back together. And all the bokts in the sheet metal are all in place. Bought a bunch of grade 8 bolts, lock warsher and warshers to hold it all together. Several holes in the sheet metal needed a little die grinder work but now they are all in and tight. First startup. The a switchover to diesel.
That home made oil cup for the air cleaner even held position and I give it two blocks of asphalt to test it out on. Mighty rough ride. :LOL One thing, I forgot to tighten two track plates that are loose. I now have to make another trip with it onto some gravel to shake the mud off the plates.
I have a chance to buy another TD-14 thats been partially dismantled. He said that the engine still runs. Something about the steer clutches or brakes not functioning is why its apart as it is. One thing I noticed is the track chains still has new yellow paint on them. Must be near new. Another thing is it has the rear PTO winch. he said it was used for a pulling a slip scraper. I seen this has what appears to be a heavy duty very sharp inverted V blade in it. I asked whats that used for. He said when pulling a slip scraper they are cable operated. A roll of cable is packed along, when a cable breaks then the operator is prepared to cut new cable and replace it. The other dozer is in a shed, he said it will take several days to get enough stuff moved to even get a look at it so no pics of that. He said it is a still running track tractor. It is a TD15 with a running six cylinder engine. He wasnt aware of it having problems. The blade from the TD-14 his grandpa was in the process of fabricating it to fit the TD-15 before he passed on. I can get both machines for $1,000.00 and there is no negotiating the price. I found a place that I can store them if My son says no on his place. I even found the financing as I dont have a dime to spare. I told the financier to not expect to get paid back at all and if it does happen it wont be within the next two years. And so thats whats happening over here.
Slip scraper. I’m sure everyone in here knows what one of these is. And driving into thst place, this is the first thing in the scenery. he said when He bought it that it had a soray tank in the back and spray arm booms out each side. Flathead V8 is the power plant. Axles are Ford but not sure what size ir vintage. Appears a person could have a lot of phun with something such as this.
Right by that was this. This man has acres of such items as this. The most of it old Fords a lit of 1930s stuff. I ask how much for either of these and his reply, what I paid for them at auction or private sales. With those two old dozers priced where he has those I’d guess He’s quite reasonable, and, he knows the value of such.
If you could buy the 14 with the good tracks it would be ideal.
Yeah, but, I want to see and hear that TD-15 with the six cylinder engine.
1936 ford truck? What was the interesting building above where you rescued your dozer from?
This the one, pole building, looks like its been a long time in the process. A semi truck trailer parked within its perimeter. He said that will be another shop building when its finished. Yes, 1936 Ford. He said that a grill for the 36 He is restoring is about $1,200.00 and He got that 36 for IIRC about a thousand but I might be wrong on that. He did say it was mainly purchased for the grill.
The poles in the center of that to be shelter are taller than the wall poles so the roof will have a two way pitch.
The son made a purchase of this old Leeboy road grader. But then it took a journey to Burgoon Ohio to get it. My brother lives at West Salem Ohio about 65 miles eastwards so it was a mighty nice time. On the way over, Southwards from Chicago on Tuesday towards evening. A rainstorm, coming down with a vengeance, had to pull over, absolutely could not see anything beyond the windshield and side windows. That lasted for maybe a half of a minute then it cleared iff good enough to see the road and so onwards. After getting out of the rain we could see reflection of flashes of light around the truck. Told the son I think thats lightening. I posted in another forum a little about the westher. Another member quoted my post then replied about that storm. Pardon me please for bringing in another forum page, please dont ban me or put me on notice. His quote: At the time He posted that He had not heard, there was two deaths in that tornado. So seems we were either right on the edge of that storm or just seconds or minutes of missing it. Step grandson in school at Menomonie Wisconsin so stayed there going and returning. Returning got into some snow but not too bad, during the night it had quit and the roads was mostly dry with some wet patches. About 20 miles from home ran into a blizzard, it was coming down hard and fast. Saturday morning got the grader unloaded and the trailer returned. Kelly fueled the grader then proceeded to clear snow from his lane, trailer court, slough road and his moms alley way. With as much snow as we had it usually would take six to eight hours to get all that cleared. I asked, he said a little over an hour. What a nice muscheeen that is.
When in Menomonie we seen this car on the ice. BACK ON THE ICE: Menomonie Lions Club’s Annual Klunker Contest is Back After a year without enough ice to support it, the old racer has reappeared on Lake Menomin to kick off the Menomonie Lions Club’s “Car on the Ice” fundraiser. Participants are again taking part in this longstanding tradition of 65 years by making guesses ... volumeone.org
Been a while since I posted any progress. Nothing has moved. I been working for this man, several days a week, get done at the end of the day and its eat supper, attempt to watch some TV and fall asleep, then days I dont work it takes a day or two to get rested up so I dont fall asleep every time I set down. Guy I been working for pulled two third row seats from his dumpster at his construction site at Big Sky, He handed one off to me to make a seat for my dozer. It has a lot of nells and whistles that needs to be eliminated. And the first fitting session Uggg, too big. Interferes with the shifter stick and the steering levers. Removing the sprung hinges and such to shorten it some more.
And the next fit is much better. The back of the seat cushion frame can be sawed off a couple inches to allow it to move slightly farther rearward. Not yet sure what I’ll use to mount them down with. More on that later.
If anyone has a use for the cable, lever, hinge systems from this seat I dismantled let me know and I’ll get it fired off to You.