Good morning, y'all. I"ve got a Takeuchi skid steer (10w-30), a large NH TS110 tractor (15w-40) and a NH backhoe LB75b (15w-40). Standardizing engine oil on the farm would be a big benefit and buying a 55 gallon drum of engine oil would save some money. But what are the rules regarding OEM oil weights? Can I change the Takeuchi oil spec to match the NH equipment? Yes I'm lazy and asking vs. internet searches but this forum has saved me from my stupidity many times so I thought to ask Experience first.
You may get varying opinions on this. I personally use a good quality 15W40 engine oil for all my diesel engines. I've never had an issue with doing this but could be a problem in very cold climates. Since your in Tennesse, I wouldn't worry about it.
15W-40 is the most common oil recommended for diesel engines unless it's for colder temps. 10W-30 used to be specified in a lot of equipment like skid steers so that the same oil could be used for engine, hydraulics and chain cases. That recommendation has since been dropped. I think the reason could be that oils and additives have improved and specific oils give better performance and life expectancy. Also certain additives may not be compatible in the different applications.
I guess 15W-40 is the new, Series 3 SAE 30.
Thanks Dave.
Is the Tak a gas engine? Diesel engines pretty much use 15W/40 across the board as it has additives for those engines. But 15W/40 can be used in gas engines as well. I use 15W/40 in my '85 300 six cylinder engine instead of modern 10W oils because 15W/40 has zinc in it, which is what my flat tappet old 300 needs. 10W and synthetic oils don't have that zinc content.
Right on. However, the newer small diesels (skid steer size) all spec 10w30 again. Has to do with tighter tolerances, fuel efficiency and emissions.
It would be interesting to see if there are any engine failures directly related to using 15W-40 instead of 10W-30 in a warm climate.
My late 1970’s John Deere farm tractor actually specs straight SAE 30 wt oil for the diesel engine for some reason. I was surprised to find that out after buying a bucket of 15w40 to do an oil change the first time.
I would think the problem would be in cold weather climates with a thicker oil at start up if tolerances were too tight inside the engine.
In a cold climate if tolerances are that tight an 0W-40 might be more appropriate. There was a post not long ago about 0W-40 recommended in a JD engine.
Many years ago we got an old Lexus LS-400 from a relative, he said all he used is 20W-50.
OK so those are the viscosities recommended by the OEMs. But what API Service Classification are they asking for.? This is a totally separate issue to the recommended viscosity. Something below for reference. Oil Service Classifications dieselnet.com
That brings back a bad memory of when I was a teenager with my first car, a 72 VW Beetle. I didn‘t understand oil viscosities and put 20w50 in it during an oil change, in the winter time. Yikes!!! I started it below 32 degrees the next morning and not only did it barely crank but it pegged my add on oil pressure gauge. Needless to say it was another street side cold evening oil change for me that night. Fortunately I didn’t blow the seals out of it. Lesson learned. Lol
We run 5w40 in every diesel engine on our farm, and we run that year round. Never have had problems in the cold, feeding cattle or in the heat of the summer haying or spraying. It does really make it nice only having one oil, minimizes the changes of putting the wrong oil in an engine. Around here sometimes the sales they have, its cheaper to buy in pails vs barrels. We also use Hytran from CNH in all our hydraulic systems, regardless of brand of equipment. It meets all the specs from CNH, Versatile, and the AGCO products we have. It really streamlines everything when there is two oils for major components, and the a couple pails of various gear oil. If you ever end up with something that has a CVT or IVT they do require special oil from my understanding, and I also understand that there can be damage to various components if you don't use that type or grade of oil in the transmission.
I put 15w50 in my 6.0 diesel by accident so I guess we will find out if that's ok
Well, does a 1985 300 six cylinder count with I can't remember how many hundred thousand miles? When the odometer hits 99K it rolls back over to zero to start over again, I've lost count of the rollovers. 300K, 400K, can't remember. 4 qt 15W/40 Rotella and 1 qt Marvel Mystery oil at oil change and it's still going strong daily.
I think you could put SAE 60 racing oil, 0W-20, corn cooking oil, or anything in between in a 300 six and have it run a lifetime
LMAO, well, yeah, there is that.
A 300 generally needs some oil in it
Theoretically . . .
When the speedo rolls over at 99,999 it's great when you're trying to sell a truck with a 300-6. Yeah, it turned over once. Whether it was once, twice or 3 times wouldn't make much difference. We had a truck that rolled over twice, never used a drop of oil. The hood flew up and smashed the windshield so the truck sat for about 5 years. Put a WD40 cap full of gas in the carb. and boosted it with the tractor. Started right up like it had been running the day before. Have read the 300-6 was designed extra HD like a diesel. I bet people would still buy them if they had the option.
The OP has a couple options. Could probably switch all three units to 10w-30 such as Delo 400 ZFA SAE 10W-30. Or, check the O&M for the Tac and switch it to 15w-40, if possible. Taking into account the climate in TN. Or, switch the fleet to 5w-40, but that may be cost prohibitive.
Wow I always heard they were good engines. That’s a good example of it.