Hello all, I think I need a new radiator on a 580ck 1971. I have oil in the radiator its not engine oil that oil is the same from the last time I check it or could it stay the same level in the block. I think its the oil from the power shuttle it down to were i cant even see it on the stick. my question is would the shuttle fill with water and the radiator with oil or is there more presure from the shuttle than the radiator? any information would be a great help I dont want to spend money on a radiator if I dont have to. thanks for your help RED
The radiator fan will suck oil from a leak elsewhere, and even spit it out all over the engine is the leak is bad enough.
The power shuttle oil is full system pressure thru the front cooler, The cooler has sprung a leak, Years back the bottom can was avaiable for replacement but not sure now, The cooler should have a working pressure of 300 psi to give a small margin. Mel
Thanks for the reply Bowen and Melben Yes if the leak was on the outside but the oil is inside the radiator. So it is full pressure from the shuttle oh well a new radiator it is. Thanks you so much for the reply
Is you oil cooler separate from the radiator?
No Sir, Its on the bottom part of the radiator
Just follow the hose's from the rad at the bottom and see where they lead. My 81 ** has the same type of cooler, and it goes to the engine oil filter. I have a separate cooler in front of the rad for the shuttle. You could always connect these two hoses together, eliminating them from the rad to see "if' thats where the leak is.(from the bottom of the rad) It could also be a head gasket leak, leaking into your coolant.
Thanks for the reply. The hoses go to the shuttle filter housing and the engine oil is still the same as the last time I checked it also its not milky. I have ordered the radiator and it willl be here in three weeks so no fun on the old beast for three weeks:jawdrop thanks again for the reply RED
Those radiators are pretty expensive ...... I hope the ol girl appreciates it!
Right but I like the old girl she is very strong soo you know I have to try and save her and the only thing I dont like is all the side to side movment in the backhoe but I cant find a good price on the right pin and bushing they want over 500 dollars for them :idea BTW I was going to put a after market shuttle cooler on and plug the cooler ports on the radiator and see if the radiator will stand the test of time or will it leak. anyway this way i know it new and less then like to have a problem with it again for some time i hope.
500 for right pin and bushing,... wait until you get the bill for your rad.
I found the Radiator for 540 dollars
How did you drain the radiator on the 580 without making a giant mess. The drain on the lower corner of the radiator is behind the shroud on my 1971 580ck and I cannot get a hose or funnel or barely a wrench on it. Is there some other drain that would make emptying the radiator easier? How much coolant is in the system? I was trying to find a spec in the manual but cannot locate it. I would like to have the right size bucket under it when I finally get it open. Thanks.
If that's for a new one, you can't beat that. I paid 680 for mine, and that was just for the core.
Hookedondiesel Yes it’s was a new aftermarket radiator 500 dollars for the radiator 40 dollars for shipping Doug Overkill I put a big drip pan under the 580 and card board on the sides but I don’t think I needed to use the card board it was a thick oil mess that was coming out. Well I am just waiting for the radiator now
If you haven't flushed the slop out of the engine block you need to do it before the new radiator is installed. It would be best if the old radiator was still on the tractor. If it was a "thick oil mess" that was drained I would remove the thermostat and flush the whole system with solvent. After that dishwasher soap and water until it is real clean. Dishwasher soap is a powerful non-foaming soap.
You can always flush out the cooler section on your old rad and then, pressure test that section to see for a leak. If there was no leak in that section, then the oil was coming in through head gasket. Not much oil will seep through the head, depending on the condition of your gasket, and will take time to build up in the rad. Also, to verify this, once your new rad is installed, you can have a "combustion leak test" done on the rad. This will confirm if your head gasket is good. I hope it's as you say and it's only the cooler that had a leak. In my case, it was the head gasket.
Thanks I will let it sit draining for the week. I am going to remove the thermostat this week end and run water in the system after I get the radiator reinstalled with the shuttle plugged off. I think when it gets up to temp it will break up the stuff in the engine. If not I will use a degreaser and run it again I have lots of time seeing that the new radiator will not be here for 3 weeks that’s the price I will pay for cheaper price radiator. :my2c
You are right on Reddeath. Actually I realized yesterday that I omitted an important part of the flushing job. That would be connecting the shuttle lines directly to each other and plugging the radiator ports those hoses are attached to. I just didn't have time to get back here and post that important part of the procedure. Let us know how everything goes.
No problem I will let everyone know when I done
Hello All, I am all done I wish I could say everything went as planned, But The aftermarket radiator fan shroud opening was a little too small for the fan blade. I cut the shroud so the fan would fit. The front oil coolers fitting were different also I had to replace the hose on the oil cooler to fit the new fitting they were old hoses so it didn’t matter much to me. I ran the engine about one hour to get all the oil out of the cooling system the cooling system still has some residue in it but I think it will be ok. After draining the cooling system I used a oil blanket to get the oil off the top of the water. I also changed the alternator belt why I had it all a part. I will put some pictures if I can find out how to but everything is working great so far I used the tractor about 4 to 5 hours this weekend and had no problem. Thanks for all the information it helped out a lot. Total cost Alternator Belt $19 Radiator $469 plus shipping $45 Cooler filer $18 Two new hoses with the new fitting end $80 New bolt and nut washers about $15