It looks like something fell on the front and knocked off the air filter, exhaust, hydraulic fittings on the front of the top rams and the roof. The throttle and fuel pump on off lever are both broken. The previous owner said he got it to start with a little starting fluid. I think he was doing that with the pump off. Not sure if any damage was done. It seems to crank fine though. I cracked the lines on the pump and there is fuel there. Not sure the condition of it, looks red still. I'm trying to figure out what engine I have and what else is missing that is needed to function. I don't see and wires for glow plugs or intake heaters. I see something that looks like a block heater maybe. I turned it over a few times after I realized the pump was not in the on position. I'm not sure if the jumper I was using got weak or the engine locked up from diesel in the cylinders. Would that be an possible issue after cranking it for about 20 seconds total. I haven't tried cranking it since. From what I gather this isn't a modern diesel. It's one of the lower compression early models it seems like. It's missing the outriggers and the backhoe. I'm looking to replace that eventually. They took everything off, the controls and all the hoses. Makes me wonder what was going on with this thing. I just need it for some light work moving dirt and wood chips and I hope I can get it to at least do that. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The shut off lever on the top cover, needs to be pointing towards the front of the engine to start.. When changing that type of fuel filter, the top oring MUST GO UP IN THE GROOVE IN THE FILTER HEAD.. NOT ON THE FILTER.. Hope this helps..
That looks like a Ford 3 cylinder. The oil filter mount, what would have been a PS pump mount on a tractor and that trapezoid shaped cover on the bellhousing tell me it’s a ford. On tractors they mounted an accessory hydraulic pump there. They used that engine for decades in tractors, skid steers etc.
I see what you are saying, but I can't find anything about a ford in this model. It could have been replaced I guess. I'm seeing a Perkins engine listed online as to what this model looks like year wise. 88 or before seems similar to this.
Perkins 3 cylinder has a vertical oil filter and the injection pump is on the same (left) side. Don't know if it might be a Leyland engine but I'd also guess it's a Ford.
Definetly a Ford, heres a couple links, there are a bunch of variants. I cannot find aanything about JCB with a Ford engine in it either but alot can happen in the +/- 40 years since it was built. Shop | Timik Engines Browse our full range of new surplus and remanufactured engines for sale — Perkins, JCB and Ford engines in stock and available to order. www.timikengines.com Unless an injector is pouring fuel into cylinder, it would not have locked up from injected fuel. Id try and turn it over with a bar before you try the starter again. And when you do turn it over with the starter again, crack the 3 injector lines to see if you have anything flowing.
Great video. I'm working on cleaning it up now and trying to find the serial number. I'll try the methods mentioned to check that fuel is making it to the injector. I would like to check the valve lash and other curtail tolerances once I get the engine to start or if it's needed to get it started. It seems like with the amount of models, the serial number might be the best method to track that information down. Anyone know what type of battery these typically run. There was a car sized battery in there that is dead. I think it was a group 47 or something similar in size. I tried a jump box and it drained it down pretty fast. Seems like a bit more amp draw than a typical starter. Maybe there is a loose wire grounded somewhere.
Try to fit the biggest battery that will fit. Not necessarily the highest cranking amps for a particular type of battery. A group 31 would be good if it will fit. Higher cranking amps for the same group of battery aren't always the most durable. There are more plates that are closer together. A little less cranking amps will have thicker plates that are further apart but handle vibration better.
The battery tray is pretty small, but I can weld in a larger on in the area it is in. A group 31 would fit in the existing tray. I think something about twice the size could fit in there. At this point I'll go with a normal size battery until I get the thing in working condition.
Group 31 are generally used on diesel engines. If it will fit should be plenty enough cranking amps. Group 31 come with posts or studs sometimes both.
Thanks for all the help so far. I got it to start on starter fluid and it seemed to be getting fuel. It wouldn't keep running after started with fluid. I plumbed in a temporary tank and ran some new fuel through it with some lucas additive. It starts on diesel now, but runs high idle for a 10 seconds then drops to a lower idle for 10-20 seconds and dies out. It restarts back up easy but petters out. I see bubble heading back up the fuel line to the temporary tank after it shuts off. As if there is air leaking into the fuel pump or filter. The two levers on the fuel pump do nothing. I move the back one (throttle) and the front(shutoff) neither of them seem to do anything. It still runs the same no matter how I move them.
Sounds like the metering valve is stuck.. On that pump DP200 (Delphi 8922a….) U can’t lift the top cover and free it up.. The pump will have to come off and be sent out.. If by chance it has a Delphi DPA pump 3234F… u CAN lift the cover on THAT TYPE..
Here is a video of it starting and running. New video by David Johnson photos.app.goo.gl
U do have a DPA pump.. It sounds like a classic case of the oring in the filter has fallen on top of the filter.. See post #2
The one hose doesn't look like it's all the way on and the hose clamps is missing.
I haven't taken off the fuel filter yet. I'll have to take it off tomorrow and see if the ring is in the grove.
U should probably change it..
I took off the filter and there is no top o ring. I ordered a new filter.
The oring gets hard as a brick.. Just make sure it’s not in the groove, up in the filter head.. How did the filter/bowl look..?? Lotsa garbage.??
The oring was mashed up in there, had to pick it out. The bowl had some silt in the bottom. There was a bit of sludge looking oil on top of the filter.
I opened up the top of the pump today and found the reason the throttle wasn't working. The metering valve was gummed up. I moved it around a bit a got it freed. One of the studs for the cap had the thread stripped off. They put washers on the bottom side to give it enough thread poking on the top to grab. I ordered a new stud and the seal kit.
For anyone else getting into the pump. I found these two resources useful. https://www.fujiyachts.net/manuals/CAV%20DPA%20Pump%20Rebuild%20Manual.pdf
For anyone using the BUNDY BEAR video, u can get ahold of me by clicking on my screen name and I’ll be happy to give u my mailing address.. lol
Anyone with Cav pump issues needs to pay close attention to what the pumpguy is saying!
What does he do wrong?
Besides everything, nothing. That video has been discussed several times on the forum. If you want the absolute best advice on repairing your pump send a PM to thepumpguysc. He has repaired pumps after people tried to do it themselves watching that video and messed them up. There are several members on the forum that have nothing but glowing reviews for the pumpguys work and advice. I had an issue with the Cav pump on my tractor and he knew exactly what part number I needed to fix it. The parts I needed only came in a kit but it wasn't overly expensive, about $67cad. Saved me having to go to a dealer or repair shop.
I get the biggest laugh when someone comes on the forum that, “just had a leak”.. and says they watched that video AND NOW, the tractor won’t start at all..
I went through the pump and replaced all the rings and seals. The metering valve was a bit sticky, so I cleaned it out and lightly abraded it with 2000 grit sand paper, inside and out. The pin linking the throttle to the governor plate had bailing wire in it. I found the pin in the body of the pump and reinstalled it. I replaced the inlet filter. I also replaced the broken stud and installed the new nut. I put it all back together and back on the engine. Got it primed and it started back up with a high idle. I adjusted the idle down and did a stall test. The difference in length of the bailing wire vs the pin made the idle way to high, now it's set right. Now it's onto the other issues.
I’m happy for ya.. Where did they have the baling wire.? Did they make their own “pin”.?? The main governor spring has the “hook” made into it.??
The governor plate that has 3 holes for adjustment that connects to the throttle lever. The pin fell into the pump, so they replaces that in with a piece of bailing wire looped around. I attached a picture of it.
LOL.!!!! That’s what I thought but then I thought, nobody is that stupid.. Boy was I wrong.. lol
Found a cool video with some information on the DPA pump.
That is good video directly from Cav.
I opened up the fuel water separator today. It had a sludge in it which made me want to look into the tank. The tank had the same sludge up to the top of the fuel outlet. I now understand why the fuel pump was filled with gunk.
Normally that glass bowl is to show if there's water in the fuel and you can drain it. The drain seized up on mine but I didn't want to risk breaking it. Only once did I seem to have a lot water so I emptied it and changed the filters. I either got some really bad fuel or someone put water in the fuel tank. I'm glad the filters caught it and prevented expensive damage.
The drain was pretty difficult to remove on this one also. I had to use pliers. It was covered with oil and dirt. I couldn't even tell it was the water separator. I just knew that was what it was based in it's location in line. I've only had to empty a water separator four times in my life. It looks like they had sat a long time at some point in it's life, the tank has a rust line running across the tank at a slight angle.
The official name for it is agglomerator.
I have never heard that before. I've never taken one apart, so I don't know if there is more to it. I read modern ones have a paper filter in them. This one has a metal cone over the bowl.
The top half is generally a filter. There may be a cartridge type filter inside the upper section of yours or maybe a std. (Perkins) style filter could be used instead. My tractor with a Perkins has the filter and agglomerator and then another filter of the same type after it without an agglomerator.
It has a filter after the agglomerator. I changed it out. I might add one between the tank and agglomerator.
What sits on top of the agglomerator? There's usually a filter there and often another seperate filter after it.
A metal section with a cone inside. Seems like a vortex separator. Like it uses inertial mass to separate the particulate to the sides to fall down into the glass bowl. I'm trying to find an exploded diagram of it to see if there are any parts missing. It looks like this.
That is different from what I've normally seen. It sounds like it could be a fancy kind of water separator.
yikes that tank was a mess! you are onto the right track now. So many people do not dig deep enough, and just re-gunkify all that they just cleaned up. Bravo!
It seems like the original designed for Perkins fuel systems. From a time when they weren't trying to nickel and dime people to death. I could see them making it easily servicable. I've learned my lesson enough times as a hobbyist to take my time and think about the problem. Otherwise I'll just keep dumping money and time into it. I still like to remind myself sometimes even though I know better. This things looks like it was put through the ringer, so I expect to have to look into most everything. I'm not sure I'll ever be able to find a backhoe arm to put back on this thing. I got a few task for the front loader when I get it all fixed up. I'm hoping the weight compensation the last back yard engineer added to this thing will be enough weight compensation for the missing rear.
Could always load the drives with Rimguard or equivalent beet juice concoction, much less destructive to the wheels than calcium. Most bucket tractors around here that I've dealt with have loaded tires for weight compensation. Both of mine are tubed and loaded. Local Massey dealer won't even let new tractors with loaders leave lot without filling the drives.
Interesting, I'll have to take a look when I get new shoes.
I found the engine id stamp in the bell housing behind the starter. Does anyone know where I can find the decoder ring for this motor? dd411f 8j17B c708590*