I have a older maybe in the 80's cat d3 dozer that was given to me & it slowly kept losing power to where now it won't go in gear. I was wondering is there a transmission filter somewhere? Also I can't find the hydrolic oil filter. I was wondering maybe 1 of these could be clogged but can't find either one. Thanks
Is it a D3 or a D3B? On a D3B the hyd. filter is on the back of the hyd. tank and accessed by loosening the bolt and puling it out. Hyd. filter wouldn't cause loss of transmission. The 3F/3R transmission has a filter and 3F/1R has a screen. Not sure what you mean by won't go in gear. The engine won't rev up enough for it to move or it just won't move when in gear? Please clarify exactly what it is doing or not doing.
Sounds like torque converter , are you able to see a short drive shaft between torque converter and transmission ? Try this , warm her up , apply brakes , give some good revs , put her in gear while watching shaft . If shaft stops its torque converter if there is no load on the motor , spins its transmission . Please note this is a test and not something that should be repeated for any other reason .
I sorry for coming in on an old post but i need some help please. I have a caterpillar d3b (27y) 3f3r. Can feel it go in gear and hear the engine load up but won't move. Th driveshaft continues to spin even though it isn't tracking. Changed filter and it went in forward and then reverse but feels like it is binding up. Could the steering clutches be slipping? Checked and cleaned the steering cylinders and the roller bearings are good but still no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Dorman, the driveshaft that is visible on the D3B is located between the transmission and the rear housing that contains the bevel gear, the steering clutches, the brakes and the final drives. So, if that driveshaft is turning, the power is reaching the steering clutches, but the clutches are not delivering the power. The first thing to check is that the oil pressure reaching the steering clutch control valves is up to the specified pressure. There should be plugs on the control valves that you remove to screw in a pressure gauge. If the transmission pump is worn, the oil pressure will be below the specified pressure, and the clutches will not release properly. Once you have determined that the oil pressure to the steering clutches is at the specified pressure, it will then be time to check if the brakes are binding. Your machine has oil-cooled steering clutches, and it is possible to have the steering control linkages adjusted too long, which then means the brake bands have to be adjusted too tight to get the correct pedal height. So the next stage then is to ensure the steering control linkages are set at the correct position, which then means the brakes can be adjusted correctly.
Most D3B have dry clutches/brakes but wet was an option. The easy way to tell is the dry brakes will have a square bolt with a jam nut on the bottom for holding up the brake bands.
Most D3B have dry clutches/brakes but wet was an option. The easy way to tell is the dry brakes will have a square bolt with a jam nut on the bottom for holding up the brake bands.
Welder Dave, the information I have is the 27Y series D3B has oil steering clutches with the 9 friction discs and 9 steel discs.
Most D3B have dry clutches/brakes but wet was an option. The easy way to tell is the dry brakes will have a square bolt with a jam nut on the bottom for holding up the brake bands.
Stupid internet was acting up is the reason for the duplicate posts. I don't think just a serial number prefix dictates which D3B's or 931B's have wet brakes. Looking for the brake band bolt would quickly confirm if it had wet or dry brakes. When I get to the computer I'll look at a parts list for 27Y prefix.
Sorry for taking so long to reply back. The valves in the transmission were stuck. I have that fixed and is pushing strong. The right brake is not engaging to turn right. The steering clutches are disengaging but the brake isn't holding. Took the cover off and the brake cam doesn't feel the same as the left side. Im at a loss for ideas. It has dry clutches
Can the brake band be tightened?
I tried to adjust it but not sure if I should've tightened the bottom adjustment bolt first or last
The bottom bolt is just to hold the brake band up. You tighten it snug (not tight) then back it off 1 1/2 turns. The easiest way to tighten the brakes is to remove the rod that goes to big cam on top of the clutch compartment at the back, it should have a hair pin in the pin, tighten the brake band snug (while also snugging the bottom bolt and backing off 1 1/2 turns), then shorten the linkage (rod to the back you removed) as short as you can that you can still get the pin in. Then loosen the brake band until you get proper pedal travel (about 1/2 way down). This guarantee's the free play is at the brake band and not in the linkage. You don't want the brake bands dragging. The machine should coast if you take it out of gear without applying the brakes and/or freewheel when going down an incline. It shouldn't take heavy foot pressure to activate the brakes just moderate to light toe pressure.
The adjuster bolt is homemade and doesn't seem to screw down enough to tighten the band and the brake cam doesn't feel like it is rolling over to tighten the brake like the left side. Previous owner made the adjuster bolt
Some pics. might help. What happened to the original adjuster? It's hard to help you if your machine is jerry rigged with homemade stuff that doesn't work.
It was that way when i got it.
I realize that. I thought the former owner might be able to shed some light on why it doesn't have original parts.