Hi everyone. This is my first post. About 5 years ago I purchased a brand new kioti ck27 tractor with FEL to maintain my 14 acre property. I've been very happy with it overall but I find that I need more machine. I pretty much only push snow with it and use the loader in summer to lift trees for firewood and that kind of thing. I often borrow a skid steer as my tractor doesn't dig well and won't lift a ton.. My tractor at 5000lbs has a rough time pushing through the hard drifts we get in winter and it lacks breakout force so even scooping through them can be tough. It also lacks traction even though I have snow tires and 4x4. It also has a open cab and with Temps dipping to -40 celicious here its not fun spending 4 hours pushing snow with no cab.. Last week I stopped in a gehl dealer that is close to home and had a look at what they had for sale on the lot. I've been told this dealer is good to deal with and my initial experience was very good. I'm thinking of trading in my 5 year old compact tractor on an older skid steer. Figured I'd look for something early to mid 2000s with no more then 2000 hours. Online the dealer had a Gehl 4840 with 1500 or so hours so I went in to have a look. That machine was sold. So, Manager showed me a 1997 Gehl 5635sx that's on the lot. It was older and larger then anything i had looked at previously to this so initially i wasnt very interested. But after I started looking at the 5635 I saw Its a large frame machine (bigger cab and should be more capable) has a cab and heat, single speed, standard flow hydraulics (20gpm), universal quick attach and a large smooth bucket that I think was 80" or so. It has the gehl t bar controls which Ive never run but I like hand controls. Looks like it will lift 1800 lbs or up to 2000 plus with weights. It weighs 7200lbs which is 2200lbs more then my compact tractor which should do the trick for pushing through those drifts at home. Unit has 2200 hours and was used on a small farm for landscaping/speading top soil and I assume snow removal. It has rust spots on it and could use a paint job but overall it seemed free of dents and dings /signs of abuse. Couldn't see any leaks underneath and the engine was clean. Interior is what youd expect on a 20 year old skid, used but not abused. Dealer put a new Gehl seat in which is very comfy. Tires are old, about 80% tread but are cracked. Appears this skid has spent most of its life on soft ground based on the tires. Dealer said the previous owner had a new engine installed by another deutz dealer but couldn't tell me why the old engine failed just that a new motor had been installed and had bills for it. New engine has 50 hours on it, previous owner traded it on a compact tractor as he wanted to run a tiller and brush hog on the farm and said he didn't use the Gehl much anymore as it didn't fit his needs. They also have basically an identical 4835 sxt that is similar but the lift capacity is less and I believe but am not sure that is a smaller frame machine? Any info on the 4835sxt vs 5635sx? They are the same horse power but the 5635 lifts and weighs more and the engine has more displacement which I'm guessing wold make it feel more powerful? So my questions are is a large frame older machine like this 5635 a good buy or should I consider a slightly newer 4835 sxt with the same horse but less lift capacity and wieght? Or should I be looking for something a little smaller in the early to mid 2000s like I originally planned. Newer smaller machines are in my price range but I'm unsure if they will out push out lift and older 35 series gehl. Any thoughts?
Those are pretty good machines by size and design, I haven't owned one, but have looked the over pretty close and know some guys who have owned a few. They have received good service and had positive feedback about them, some guys have bought only Gehls for many years. What's good about t-handle controls is it eliminates foot pedals and makes it easier and safer to operate and get in/out, especially for older users. Getting in and out is one of the activities where people frequently get hurt or killed using a skid loader. Guys I've known that use a lot of different machines from new to older Bobcats, say they can pretty much get used to whatever machine they are using after a few minutes. Gehl's unique low-profile loader arm design provides operators better side visibility than other machines, which is also a good safety feature. An 80" bucket seems a little large for that machine, a 72" bucket seems like it would be a better fit, but I guess it depends on the rims and tires too. But the 80" bucket would probably be nice for snow ....and you might want to pick up a narrower toothed bucket for digging. Smooth buckets can do limited digging, especially if the ground is moist, but other than that, you'll want to explore a bucket with teeth. I wouldn't let tires be a stumbling issue on the deal. You can get a set of tires on sale or on the internet for not all that much (hopefully you won't need new rims too). While new tires provide great traction for digging, they also reek havoc and tear things up when doing repair and finesse work on turf that you care about. Sometimes it's nice to have a set of so-so tires that won't tear things up. So, it depends on what kind of work you end up doing and if you want, you can select from a variety of tread patterns that will best meet your unique needs if you were to decide on new tires. On the engine, given that it's so new as they claim, if you don't feel so comfortable, ask the dealer if they have some sort of a warranty you can buy. Even if it were the original engine, 2000 hrs is nothing for a skid like that. You see them advertised around here with extreme hours, like 8000 hours and so on. It's good to be careful and look at all aspects of the loader, but that's not very many hours. It's nice they put a new seat on it. Weather it's a good buy or not, I guess depends on how much they are asking (which you didn't list), the market in your area and what you can afford. Gehl's seem to be good machines, and I regularly see them around here on construction sites along side Cats and Case machines. Personally, I wouldn't go with anything smaller than that machine but that's just me. By today's standards, it's really not a really large frame machine, but about the right size to do some real work w/o easily outgrowing it. If you need to trailer it, which it doesn't sound like you do, but if you did, you'd want to make sure your truck/trailer can handle whatever you buy. Smaller machines make it easier to get into tighter places and house and you can do a lot with even smaller machines. One nice thing about older machines is fewer electronics to go wrong that can't be resolved by a reasonably competent mechanic (as opposed to a trip to the dealer). For most homeowners high productivity is less important than reliability and cost of ownership and that machine should have fewer electronics to go wrong. What makes a skid loader a versatile machine are the numerous attachments. You might want to save a little money for a few key items you might need. IMO, a tooth bucket is almost a necessity for any real digging, and a set of pallet forks for moving things around. You might want to consider a plow or snow pusher as well. It's difficult (but not impossible) to find good used tooth buckets at least around here and the same for a set of used forks that aren't bent. The time to swing a really good deal on these are when negotiating with the dealer. Around here, used skid loader mount snow plows are a dime a dozen on craigslist, mostly home-brew Boss and Western conversions. But a good, strong Virnig v-plow up to the stress of a skid loader might be worth investigating brand new if you get a LOT of snow drifting in your area. Post hole augers and other items are popular attachments as well, but can be rented if only needed infrequenly. Well, good luck. Hopefully some long-time owners will chime in with their ownership experiences.
Jeep walker, thanks for the info. To fill in a bit more info on this machine. They are asking about 10k US for it which in this market is a fair price and I'll add on the cheaper side. Theyve had this skid on the lot for about 8 months so i think theve dropped the price a couple of times. Will probavly be a straight trade for my current tractor. The next jump up in price would be about 5k which gets me never but more often then not 2x the hours and often those are track machines which I have zero interest in for home use. If I need a track machine I have borrowed a Deere 333d from the place I push snow for in the winter. That thing is a beast I will say. In winter I run a cat 950h and volvo L90E to clear snow and other then that I haven't run much else. The bucket is indeed a 72" smooth bucket, a toothed smaller bucket and a set of forks Is something I think I'll work into the deal. As for the weight my trailer will just handle it but my 1/2 ton is not legal to haul it in my area as I'd be probably 1000lbs over weight. No biggie though as I have access to several trailers as well as trucks not that I ever haul my equipment now so I don't think that's a big deal. And you hit the nail on the head I'm looking for reliable and simple for at home. Something that wI'll push snow, ,lift pallets of wood and do some grading and soil moving. Speed is nice but it's not a need for me at home. I'm just looking for more machine then I need at a reasonable price. I can fix darn near anything and I'll add my brother is a diesel mechanic who specialises in small diesels so I always have his brain to pick. I was thinking about asking about warranty as the new motor is nice but was unexpected in something with this many hours. Dealer said they ran this skid through their shop and replaced a few things like the seat but otherwise it checked out. So it sounds like a machine this vintage shouldn't be overlooked simply because it's old style and maybe needs a paint job? I remarked at the great visibility on all 4 sides and the cab fit me well as I'm 6'2" and 260 lbs. Foot controls are something I don't love as I have size 14 feet and often it's a tight fit for them on floor pedals. The gand controls I'm sure I can get used to as I jump in and out of different loaders during snow removal and some have different stick configurations then others. Thanks once again for the info. Very much appreciated!
It sounds like you know your way around skid loaders. That price would be a good deal around here especially with a cab, heat, new seat, and those hours. I don't think you can go wrong because it's at the low end of it's depreciation range. If you decided in a couple years to go a different direction, you should still be able to get about what you paid for it ...probably even more if you repainted it with new decals and tires. Before you buy it, check the lower bucket and cylinder pins for excessive wear just because. The more you look, the other deals you're gonna find, and every once in a while you'll see something that'll make you say, "Jeez, I shoulda waited." But at some point ya have to make the jump and enjoy what you got. I personally wouldn't be afraid to own a Gehl. There are a lot of good machines out there. Good luck.
I have a newer 6635 SXT Series II. So a newer machine than you're looking at but similar. I really really like the Gehl 35 series now that I have run mine. I always felt a little instability with Bobcats that the Gehl seems to have engineered out. Its almost too smooth and stable lol. I wouldn't hesitate buying another. Mine has no computers and a mechanically injected 81-83hp turbo Deutz. Not sure what engine your machine would have but the power is really really there. I am glad I found out about the Gehl line-up. They really are super heavy duty...I think you'll like it.
I believe the 6635 series 2 is identical to the 5635 that I'm looking at except it has more horse power, lifting capacity, 2 speed and hiflow. They both have the deutz FM1011 if I remember correctly.
I have a single speed and without hiflow. Mine has a BF4M1011F - thats a 4 cylinder turbo. I think the 5635 could have that same turbo engine?
Interesting. I though all 35 series 2 had the 2 speed but I guess I'm wrong. The 5635SXT is the same engine with turbo with 80hp. The one I'm looking at is the same engine as yours just naturally aspirated.
View attachment Gehl Operator Manual.pdf Heres an operators manual that can tell you a bit.
I had an old bobcat 732 for 17 years, it was an awesome machine, but I was always pushing it beyond its limits (1300 lbs ROC). I use it in a sort of hobby farm setting, big hay bales, boxes of firewood etc. Rear wheels off the ground or close to it much of the time. This fall I bought a 1997 Case 90xt, a huge upgrade. That thing is a beast, the added capacity (2450 lbs ROC) makes it feel so much more stable, it never feels like it wants to stand on its nose or anything. And it is MUCH faster. My wife is learning to plow snow with it, I would never have considered this with the old one. Case is 9000lbs though, 2x as heavy as the old bobcat. Unless you need to have a smaller machine, go big and go home haha.
Thanks I downloaded that manual. Looks like a simple and roust machine for sure. The t bars shold be really easy to learn based on what I read in the manual. Still waiting for the dealer to move forward and give me a trade in price for my tractor. Hopefully they will get back to me soon before the next snow dump I'm sure we'll be getting.
The T-bars are luxurious. I was used to hand and foot controls. My fear going in was that the T-bars might require a lot of wrist movement. But its not much wrist twisting at all.
The T bars is one of the things that drew me to the gehl machines I will admit. I climbed into the 5635 and moved the sticks and they didn't require as much wrist movement as I thought they would. Still not sure if I'm going to do a deal on this machine or wait for one a bit newer like maybe a series 2 with a 2 speed and hi flow hydraulics. I do think I'm 100% sold on a gehl though. One thing Im finding is its hard to get is good advice from friends I know . A lot of my friends own or run skid steers but they all make their living with them doing concrete or snow removal. They all are super interested in the fact that I'm looking for a skid but they all say "oh that machine is too old, you should get something newer with more toys and electronics". I don't think they understand that this is a machine for use at my home and I'm not buying it to make my living. My buddy just told me that tonight over coffee and then 10 min later told me how another guy we push snow with is getting code after code on his new bobcat and it's driving him nuts cause it goes into limp mode and he has to take it into the dealer. And on top of that he said "thsee new machines are great but you can only do so much work to them cause of all the specialised electronics" For at home I still think an old style mechanical machine like a gehl is a smart bet as I can work on it. Maybe wrong but that's how I see it. Anyone disagree?
Case and Gehl were early adopters of hand (only) controls. Now, most skid steers have electric/joystick, but still hand controls. High flow hydraulics would be nice, but there are only a few attachments you'd likely use it for (snow blower might be one of them).
Yeah a snow blower is of interest to me bUT I'm not sure if I will ever buy one as I have lots of places to put snow. Still would be nice to have one some times.
G'day, Just following your train of thought, ie KISS principle. I agree! Travelled Austrlalia in an FJ60 Landcruiser, manual gearbox, no computer and just points for spark. Only had to replace points. On those travels I saw a Wagon pull into a Caravan Park and the auto transmission was smoking terribly - clearly overheated with the towing of the van, driver said he knew what he was doing, go figure, hood was up on the wagon the next day! Stick with manual for simplicity and no elecs beyond the necessary. Equally saw brand new 4wd Nissan Patrol in Broome, had the auto fail - he was towing as well - auto was under warranty. Bad news was he had to send it to Perth to be repaired. Elec/computer/sensor fail and gear train fail. Took weeks to transport and then return for re-fit. On my computer run Hilux tipper dual cab I had a coil pack fail - manufacturing fault. The computer demanded the whole car stop! Had to be towed and analysed - the tech experts could not figure - I followed my nose to burned elecs and found coil pack - replaced and all go again. On the property where ever possible I use the KISS principle. Can't always as manufacturers make machines more complex and reliant on what will be unobtainable computer when they decide the machine is no longer supported. Stick with your principle of KISS as it is the right one for putting a machine back into operation yourself or certainly more simply. Best of luck. Bought this end machines with functions I have never used and other machines with functions I thought I would not use and do. Best machine for the job is always the one that gives little trouble and is built like a brick outhouse they say over here in OZ. Regards, MX45
Agree with the KISS principle 100%. I was looking for a Gehl or older Case 1845C when I bought my Cat 236B and Cat 246. I couldn't get the aux hydraulics to work on the 236B because of electronics. There are electronics in the right joystick which would cost $600 to replace so I sold it rather than make that gamble. The joysticks are fun and easy but they have a turn radius because you can't get one motor to go forward while the other is in reverse. Around here Cat is about all you find used. I do all my own repairs and I can fix just about anything but electronics. I think their main purpose is "Planned in obsolescence" and dealer dependence .
I think you may be right.
Here's a picture of the machine in question. A little rough in the paint department but seems straight and should have tons of life left.a new paint job and decals would fix her right up. Really apreciated all the comments on this thread. Good to know an older machine is still relevant and serviceable even though today's fancy electronic machines are so advanced an old timer like in the picture can still do work and last for many years. Hopefully I'll get the deal done this upcoming week.
Good looking machine! Tough as nails I tell you. Mine fired up in 1 crank in 30 degree weather today. Quietest hydros I've ever heard. Can you tell I am so glad I discovered my Gehl 6635? Or should I say, can you tell I am glad I discovered Gehls? LOL
I'm after Gehls because of people like you. It's rare that I've heard a gehl owner say anything bad about their Gehl skid loader. Especially when it's a 35 or 40 series machine. I've never really been one to want fancy equipment. I like simple and tough as nails. If I listened to my buddies I'd have buy a 5 year old machine or newer or I'm wasting my time it seems. They make it sound like a late 90s skid steer with 2000 hours is ready for the grave yard and is a waste of money. I'm prepared for things like hoses to fail and things like that due to age but I bet once I go through the machine it will run trouble free for a long time. Im going to trust my gut on this one as I don't really want spend upwards or 15 to 20k on a machine I use around my yard. In this market you either look at 10k priced skids or they go up to 15k or 20k with nothing in the middle. The newer skids I can afford are lighter in construction, weight and lifting ability. Yes they move around faster and are lighter to tow but I think they would fall way short in lifting and pushing vs. a 5635.
It looks good, don't paint it, nothing beats factory paint.
The only reason I was thinking paint is the undercarriage is pretty rusty and being from the great white north bare metal tends to rot quick especially when used for snow clearing. It's also super humid here in the summer so once again rust tends to get out of control. I really don't care how it looks, I like the weathered look as I'm more inclined to do work with an old machine then say my shiny new tractor. Was just thinking of pertection but I guess a good cleaning and then rub her down with oil like and old gun would be fine to lol.
It looks like brand new compared to my skid steer. I think you made a good purchase.
Haven't done the deal yet but hopefully next week it will be done. The dealer is dragging their feet on giving me a trade in price for my 5 year old compact tractor. Compact tractor is Shiney and as new, makes doing wok not much fun cause I have to be so careful not to scratch it. I have a feeling my trade in value is more then this skid steer and that's why they are taking their time. Oh well hopefully I'll end up with it..
G'day, Bucket looks like it has teeth - necessary for digging effectively and hooking for loading stuff on ropes quickly, check for wear it will give you an idea of how harsh previous use was. LHS front drive wheel looks like it has oil leak - distinct from rear wheel, have them service it if any doubt. Get a warranty for a few months on whole machine if possible. Be certain it has a new motor as you are buying it with that in mind. Check the manufacturer date on motor? If your Kioti is worth more ask for things you will need - maybe they have some second hand equipment you could use sitting around and good for them, good for you. I have Kioti three spindle mower fitted to Case CS75 tractor. Only time it stopped working was when I caught a concrete slab with the front and it bent it inside out. That is a whole other story. All that aside the cabin looks unmarked and really straight. Who cares about the date stamp once you are working it. I have not owned Gehl but everyone here who has seems to like them. Got to be a decent bet even if it went awkward. Maybe they can throw in delivery! Maybe first annual service! For rustproofing - I am within a few kms of coast here in Oz, best I have done is cold galvanising - let dry, mix one part epoxy paint with fish oil and apply. Takes a long time to dry but gave years of rust pro
Lost my end of message. rust proofing! Best of Luck in negotiating, Regards, MX45.
Just an update, I'm going tomorrow to demo the machine. It will be cold out which is perfect cause I'd like to see it start and run with a cold engine. With any hope the deal should be done tomorrow.
I usually tell a seller I would like to start it up cold. When I get there I put my hand on the block. If it's warm I leave right then.
I agree, and I told the salesman that I would like it outside and cold when I get there. Now it has been -30 Celsius for the last week though so often a machine won't start under those conditions. Plugged in it should start though so its not like I'm asking for too much.
Well thanks to everyone for their help on this subject. I just did the deal for the gehl. It was outside in -20 Celsius weather and it fired up from stone cold without glow plugs!! It actually started nicer then my new tractor. Dealer is great and they showed me anything that may be an issue and then offered to fix any issues if I was interested in buying it. They even exchanged the toothed bucket for a 72" snow bucket at no charge which was exactly what I wanted. I test drove it and the motor is super quiet like its new, no smoke and tons of power. Cab is quiet and yep those gel t bars are so easy to use. I will have to practice a bit to make it run straight as I tended to twist the bar to one side or another but like anything else practice makes perfect. Hydraulics were quiet and free of scary sounds. The dirty left front rim from the first picture is no longer on the machine, rims look almost new so I'm thinking they may have put new rims on it since the last time I looked at it. The new engine was bought in the states and installed locally. They've been pushing snow with it all winter and that's a good thing to me as that would let any gremlins show themselves. I will say that everything works right and I couldn't find anything. I ran it for about 15 mins and couldn't find anything to complain about. Only thing I found was a bit of a hydraulic cylinder leak but he said they will sort that out. One pin at the bucket has a little bit of play but not enough to bother me. So the only thing it will need will be a set of tires in the future but that's no biggie. Here's a few pics I shot today. It's much cleaner then the first picture i got from the dealer and the dealer even said that he will make her shine and run it through their shop again before it gets delivered as that's just how they do things. [/URL Oh and he through in pick up of my tractor and delivery into the deal no charge because he said it makes it easy on me. It was originally listed and shown to me as not having a door but he has a door that needs glass and once again he said they will install new glass and a new wiper blade in to door no problem and install it. Once again thanks to all for you help. Will be getting it mid next week. Can't wait.
You're going to have a nice machine there with what seems like a lot of hours left in it! Nice to have a dealer who goes the extra mile for you. You might ask them to check the drive chain adjustment and adjust properly. It might be worth paying them to do it if you need to, because being a new (to you) machine ...and so cold outside, it would be peace of mind on something that might need to be done. It's something you could do down the road, but the service dept is set up to do that kind of stuff and can do it in a fraction of the time it'll take you. I'd also ask them check/change the drive motor lube ...at least make sure the level is where it should be and you can change it in the spring. You run them low on lube and that's the definition of a bad and expensive day. If you don't have a set of forks, now that the dealer is in a good mood, consider seeing if you can get a good price on a set. If cash is getting low, at least see if you can get their 'best price' in a written quote so you can get that deal come spring or when funds allow. Pics look good.
Hey jeepwalker. The drive chains were just serviced along with engine and hydraulic oils. I'm not sure how to check drive motor lube unless your talking about the hydro oil? Once again thanks for all your help.
Congratulations - you are going to wonder how you lived without it after just a short while. It will be so versatile. OK if the snow bucket is what you wanted but I would sorely miss my bucket teeth if they were not there every time I wanted to dig! Looks like the dealer would like to keep you as a customer and has gone the extra yard - did they do a warranty/service reward with the purchase? I did well years ago purchasing an MX45 Grey Market Excavator in Australia. Dealer proved difficult a bit but did give good advices - got the right set of buckets and the machine was delivered as promised in deal price (400kms) and repairs done as agreed. I have been caught often enough to celebrate when something goes right even 7 years later - still enjoying it. I hope your new tool (toy) does at least equally as well. Forks would be a big bonus - most used utility after the bucket for mine, Best wishes, MX45
Hi, The toothed bucket would be nice I agree BUT living in this desolate land called the Canadian prairies a snow bucket is just what the doctor ordered from november to april .We got something like 110cm of snow during a 2 week period in December which means 90% of my hours are spent on snow removal. Nice thing is theres a rental company at the corner out here that rents toothed buckets for very cheap for a weekend so I think I'll go that route. As for my dealer being great and taking care of me that's one thing that really sealed the deal. I had a terrible dealer with my Kioti so I've learned my lesson. My kioti has been great but the bad dealer put a bad taste in my mouth. There is no warranty on the unit BUT I can say 100% that if there's any issues in the next while these guys stand up behind what they sell for sure. I was prepared to take the machine with the few small defects but they wouldnt have it. I guess when they take a trade in they run it through the shop and change the fluids etc. They then leave it for sale so the customers can view it how it was traded in so there's no hiding anything. If you buy the machine they then really pick it apart and tidy things up. Thsey have been using this machine to cear snow on there lot so they are very familiar with it and have done some maitenace that it needed already. Their system woks for me compared to other dealers who always say "what do you want it's an old machine!" I got him to quote me on a set of forks but he was a bit high compared to several other quotes I've seen. That's fine cause he's serval thousands low on the skidsteer so it's all balancing itself out although I'm buying forks from a different vendor.
Get 2 buckets for it! Otherwise you have a very expensive snow plow. Snow buckets are too big and light duty for ANY type of dirt work and you can't see what you're doing. Also make sure the snow bucket has a bolt on cutting edge so it's easy to replace when it wears out. I would have tried to get the extra bucket as part of the deal. Once you have a skid steer you won't believe the things that it can do.
G'day, It is what works for you but a general purpose bucket works for me. There have been times I would want the teeth off the bucket but not as many as when I wanted them on. Bobcat 753. Even with my feet size 10 I have difficulty in operating the pedals as they are just a bit smaller than my shoe/boot, so hand controls is the way to go. Foot controls makes for thinking time when running. Also the view from that Gehl cab looks so much superior and it is a constant pain actually seeing the front of the bucket in the Bobcat but a great machine otherwise. I have to agree with another poster that the 753 Bobcat's limits are exposed when trying to lift some things in that it bobs up and down at the rear. So going bigger is actually I think far more advantageous than looking for a few spare inches when you are in a small space occasionally. Forks differ in quality of manufacture - be sure the quality is comparable. I also buy things from different dealers but when I find a good support Hydraulics place I stay with them. As time goes by you get better advice - they try to save me money by telling me what I can do for myself but often now I just say you guys know what you are doing and will do it in no time. Happy to pay the toll. Got a water bill Christmas Eve a few years ago and was a skyrocket. Checked the meters (on acres over here) and had a leak where it was not worth digging - too many services. Had to lay in new line. Had sufficient to do that but got to the last six feet of digging the new trench and a hose burst on the excavator. Connection had been twisted at some stage and I had not noticed! So no water! Just per chance on Boxing Day I went to the local Hydraulics place. Owner was polishing up his boat. Helped me out even though his registers were closed and I had no cash on me. Took a while for me to remember that the new fitting was LH Thread. Still working and that dealer is my go to guy all the time. I don't compare notes with the other dealers near by. Sounds like it is a fit for you and I expect your smile will be bigger than the width of that bucket once you see what it can do over a little tractor. The skid steers are just solid compared with a little 4x4 tractor and purpose built. Enjoy! Regards, MX45.
NB A four in one bucket with a removeable edge with teeth would have done the job or an edge that bolted on over the teeth? A four in one is indispensible over here. You can grab stuff!
w/o a tooth bucket you can't do much digging in those tough prairies, unless you just had a nice rain. I vote for a bucket with BOLT-ON teeth (not a tooth bar). Problem with a tooth bar, the teeth usually hang down below the bucket edge and you can't grade very well. With a tooth bucket with weld or bolt-on teeth, the teeth are usually flush with the bottom of the bucket so you can back grade just fine. Ideally, a dedicated dirt and tooth bucket ...and a snow pusher would be good to have.
Well my wife and I were talking about buckets. I think we're going to buy both. You guys are right, I need a tooth bucket. We have 14 acres and I'm still clearing some of it so yeah I need a toothed bucket. One question for those of you who know gehls. Is there a way to make the t bars more stiff. I found the left stick to be very touchy. Everything works and the response was fast while turning or going forwards and backwards but, I found it was so easy to accidentally initiate a turn that I was having issues going straight. It seemed to be jerky while going forward unless I really paid attention to how I was pushing the stick . Like maybe the rods that turn the unit are too tight so there's not enough play so any slight movement meant you start turning. Maybe I just need more practice but it just seems like maybe there could be something a bit loose? Any thoughts?
Good Decision on a toothed bucket. Don't buy three - get a 4/1 in the toothed version, it is like having a thumb on your hand - can't grip anything without it! My 5 cents worth. I have picked up logs and can hold them while going over rough ground. I can lift out of holes without strapping. I can pull stuff away from other stuff again without chains and ropes and time, etc, etc, you get the picture. Regards, MX45
flip up the cab and have a peak at the linkages you are refering to (they are done simple)
Awesome! The drive motors run off the hydraulic tank - nothing separate to service. You could drain and refill if you wanted - I just did this. You can check chain tension by following the procedure in the book. Really easy to test and really easy to adjust. You may want to try out the T-bars for like 15-20 minutes before you make any changes. The reason they are not super stiff is so you dont have impact on your wrists. At first I found I was slightly curving but adapted quickly to keep her straight. Of course make sure tires are all the same height using a tape measure and air pressures equalized to make them the same size - otherwise you will have to fight the shorter tire(s). If you have any questions let me know - I just what I would say was a minor restoration of a 6635 so I should be able to at least get you started on anything your 5635 needs.
Right on thanks for the info. I will try the t bars for a while and see what they do. I prefer the bars stay light as I'm a sheet metal worker so of course I have tennis elbow and carpal tunnel in both hands! I find I adapt pretty quickly to most controls. We have a Volvo L90E at the company I push snow for part time. The loader controls are very touchy compared to the Cat 950g I usually run. After an hour I was just as good with the Volvo as I am with the cat. I'll play with the machine a bit until I decide if anything needs adjusent. As for tires my good friend has a set of 4 matching tires that were used for a season of snow clearing on a new machine but we're swapped out for snow tires. He said I can have them as he's had then for several years and he said he'll never live long enough to wear out the tires on his new Holland. I used to be a tire buster years ago so I'll swap them out this spring once it warms up.
Well my new toy I mean tool got dropped off this morning. I put an hour on it before work and I will say that I am impressed. The engine runs like a Swiss watch, hydraulics are smoth and very quiet. And yep those t bars are super easy to get used to. Took me about 20 mins to get decent with them. Glad I got a big machine cause it moved all the piles that my old tractor would just bouce off of. The machine has no issues lifting the 82" snow bucket that's mounted to it. The second bucket is a 72" toothed low profile cat bucket and I'm very glad I got it. Everything seems to work so I only have a couple small things to sort out. The door needs new weather stripping around it which will help the cab stay warmer as the right side has some missing spots and the cold air was blowing right through there. The heater blows lots of air but the heat was just so so. I'll have to make sure the valve for the oil flow is all the way open. It may just be that it's super cold out like -38 Celsius which is as cold as cold gets. I'm not complaining though as I ran the machine with bare hands the whole time and I was quite comfy. Once again thanks to all who chimed in here. You guys all helped me finally pull the trigger on a skid steer purchase after 2 years are pondering it.
Enjoy, happy it was help and not hinder for my 5c worth a few times over. Having dug with smooth edge bucket and toothed you will not regret the toothed bucket as soon as you want to 'dig'! Only weekend warrior over here in Oz with old model toys. Sounds like it is a shoe that really fits - always a good feeling when you get home from the shoe store! Regards MX45.
Hey, glad it runs out great for you. On the heater, a couple things: 1) might be worth removing the hoses and back-flushing the heater core during the summer when it's not too cold out. A lot of crud can get in there and often back-flushing with just a garden hose can 'blow' it clean if there's stuff in it ...improve heat transfer. 2) Make sure all the interior insulation is in place. You're basically sitting in a steel box that sucks the heat out except for the little insulation that lines the cab. If some of it's missing or peeled back, that can have a big negative effect on keeping it warm inside. Let us know after several months after you've had a chance to use it and do some things, give us your comparison feedback what it's like coming from a compact utility tractor to a skid loader. Let us know what the pros and cons are of owning each ....for hobby farm duties. A lot of guys who have the tractors probably wonder what they might gain/lose by going to a skid loader ....and the other way around for skid-only operators. Ive often wondered that when I see these nice, shiny compact tractors. Cheers.
Just spent an hour puttering with the 5635 and 2 hours moving snow. I blew out the heater and that seemed to help it heat a little better. I'll clean it out better in spring. I put new weather stripping around the door which really helped with keeping the windows clean and the drafts away. After about an hour of clearing snow I dropped my glove down on the right side of the seat and I felt the wind blowing into the cab when I put my hand down to pick it up. Both sides have a big draft coming from where the cab meets the frame of the skid steer. I'm guessing there's a gap there that is letting the wind blow right through the cab. I plan to raise the cab on the weekend and see if I can install some weather stripping under the bottom as that's 100% why I'm finding it a bit cold in therror cab. As for compact tractor vs skid I will do an update after some time. At this point on the snow clearing test, I give the nod to the skid steer by a fair amount. My tractor went faster in a straight line BUT I could never push anywhere near the amount of snow that the gehl can. With 8" of snow on the ground today I pushed the 900 foot portion of my driveway in 4 passes with the gehl. It would take like 12 passes with my tractor even if I had my 7 foot blade in the back. Then there's the ability to move in and out of tight places. Again the Gehl smokes the tractor on speed. So far I'm thinking I should have done this 5 years ago and not even bothered with a tractor. I think a tractor is perfect if a person wants a single machine that does everything OK but doesn't Excell at any one job. Just my opinion.
Skid steer over compact tractor X10, unless you really need the 3pt hitch or pto, I think a skid steer is a far more versatile and efficient. JMHO
Farm tractors are easier to get in and out of. Since they are gear driven, theoretically they should last longer than hydraulic drive. Rear visibility is better. They are harder to get stuck and easier to get unstuck. I have both and honestly I seldom use the tractor for anything but the back blade since I got my skid steer. I like both. Another thing good about farm tractors is you can buy one that's old as dirt for $3K and they are easy and cheap to maintain. A $3K skid steer would probably be a nightmare to own for anything but parts. Farm tractors with front loaders are generally too delicate for any kind of excavation. They just don't build modern ag tractors anywhere near as rugged as construction equipment.
I have owned a compact utility tractor with FEL since 1990 (mowed, plowed snow & worked in the woods with it). In 2012 I finally bought a skid steer, a 2012 NH L220 with cab/heat/ac & a bunch of extras & added rubber OTT that I leave on all the time. So, here's my opinion: For plowing snow (with my hydraulically angled blade), the skiddy wins hands down. I'm warm (even have a heated seat!), & the skiddy is way more maneuverable than the tractor. And I don't have to get in & out much. For just about everything else (in warm weather), the tractor still wins. It's easy to get on/off, even with loader part way up, the visibility is unmatched, & the ground clearance is greater. Of course I don't need it or the skiddy to dig, since I also have a mid-size excavator. Since I almost always work by myself, the biggest problem with the skiddy is that it is such a PIA to get in & out of, & virtually impossible...not to mention unsafe...to get & out of with the loader arms part way up. If you work alone, don't underestimate your need to do this!!! The only skiddy solution for this access problem is the unique side-entry JCB machines with the single arm. I would not consider them a production dirt machine by any means, but for ease of access they can't be beat. They excel for visibility also. But they have some short comings (can't put OTT on wheeled machine, tracked machines are very heavy, no rear hitch/drawbar/winch hookup or any provision for such). The next best skiddy solution would be one with a slide-up door (not hinged), which would make entry easier (the opening is wider & you can leave the door up when operating). Granted, the hinged door on my NH (& most other swing-door skiddies) can easily be removed, but I've never done it, since it is somewhat of a pain & even with the door off the door opening is not full width for the full height. Only skiddies that have slide-up doors are Tak, Kubota, & maybe ASV, as far as I know.
Well we got a storm yesterday and my driveway drifted in pretty good. The kind of drifts that would of made me grit my teeth trying to move them with my tractor. Had to go jump in a loader last night and clear several big parking lots so I didn't have time to clear y driveway. Normally this would be a bad move to leave the drifts as they get very hard. Woke up this afternoon after getting home at 7 am and decided to clear the driveway. Now that I've put a good 8 hours on the 5635sx I will say these few things. First off, the deutz engine starts easy in super cold weather. It only smokes a little for 30 seconds or so and then smooths out to a purr. It's quiet and smooth, I really like it. Fuel consumption seems low compared to other newer machines I've run. It uses fuel but not a ton. Man does this thing have power, I'm glad I didn't hold out for an 80hp turbo model cause honestly I don't feel I need more power. With the 84" snow bucket that I have on it I can push a full bucket of snow to the pile, bite in and then roll the whole pile up and stack it. The motor barely slows while doing that. Reminds me of the Cat 950g I push snow with at work. I'm used to that size machine so often I find small equipment like skid steers underpowered but that isn't the case with the Gehl. Visibility is very good from the cab, it still is a skid steer but the Gehl boom design really makes it easy to see on both sides. The Tbar controls are so easy to use. I'd put them right up there with modern pilot controls. My only complaint with the tbars is being a big guy it makes it tough for me to get in and out without catching the left stick with the back of my left thigh. I've adapted to them being there by sliding in sideways but it's not the easiest thing to work around. I lifted the cab today to install the cab bottom weather stripping which took a large pry bar to get it up the first 8" but after that I lifted it with ease. It is heavy but not terrible. I see why guys say its easy to work on it with the cab up. The cab layout is bare bones but everything is easy to see and straight forward. I find the cab to be roomy once inside and very comfy. I've run a brand new deere 333e ctl and I wouldn't say it's any more comfy. At this point I will say that I'm 100% happy with my Gehl and I see why some guys swear by them.
Yeah, I always thought they were a great design. I would definitely consider owning one if I were in the market. It's been fun and educational following this thread and your purchasing process.
the cab to chassis weatherstripping disintegrates super quickly...they used junk from the factory. I've replaced miles of that stuff it seems. Your heater lines may be kinked going to your heater, or the valve not opened all the way by the heater. Usually they work very well. Is your oil temp gauge working? it's possible your thermostat (left front of engine I believe) is stuck open and not allowing the oil to heat all the way. Rare though. They redesigned the lower rear edges on the 35 to 40 series. Over time the lower outer edges on the 35 series where the fuel and hydro tanks are get worn down from rubbing up against debris/dirt/gravel and start leaking. The 40 series have skirts to avoid this. The non turbos do use less fuel, but not much less than the 80 hp versions. They sound different when running.
My heater hoses aren't kinked and there's no valve on either if them. My oil gauge works great and the engine runs at I think 180f or so. I'll have to check extra time I run it. The heater isn't factory I don't think. It's a clean factor install but it doesn't match the diagrams in the parts book I have. It worked good as long as the Temps aren't too cold. I'm going to insulate the lines and I bet that will solve the issues. I live in one of the coldest places on earth so we have a special set of problems from our level of cold. I've spent the last week's worth of evenings tinkering with the 5635. I've cleaned and adjusted this and that. Vacuumed the interior which made it nice inside. I'm making a list of thinks that I want to repair during the summer. I had a leaky hose for one of the tilt cylinders which was loose but I tightened it and it seems to not be leaking now.. I'd like to replace several hoses as some of them are 20 years old and they are due for replacement. Many hoses are new so I might as well do the last couple. The pins and bushings where the quick tach mounts to the booms have some play so I'm going to replace those as that's a good thing to do before they get too bad. Other then that everything works as it should. I also am going to look at the drive chains as I hear a slight rattle in the drive line which sounds like a sloopy chain. I know the chains have been serviced but I'd like to have a peek in there . Anyhow I will keep updating this thread as I go. I think I am going to paint her this summer. I've painted motorcycles and a few cars so painting a skid shouldn't be a big deal as long as I do proper prep.
It's funny you mentioned the rattle in the drive line. I've had the 5635 and 4835 models with two digits on the hour meter only to have that rattle in the drive chains. So did my friend. We both found out it was the slack adjuster (on the right side) slapping laterally on it's pivot point. Chain tensions were well within specs too. Would be interesting to see what is causing yours to rattle. If you going to keep yours a long time, take and make sure your chain case covers are sealed all the way across at the top so that no water can sit down in a crack....I've seen so many of these rust out just enough to dump gallons of water into the chain cases. If only they would have sealed them at the very top from the factory it would have prevented the intrusion and subsequent costly repairs.
My noise sounds like its coming from the right side chain case. It's a "rattle rattle rattle" kind of sound it's not there all the time either. It comes and goes. The dealer said they went through this machine and I can see rtv sealant on the tops of both chain case covers. They apear to be well sealed. The dealer put 150 hours on this machine since last year so I'm guessing the rattle is common. They used it for moving pallets and snow clearing so I'm sure they heard the noise. Still though I'm the kind of guy who must lay eyes on things for myself so I bet in the near future I'll be pulling both covers to look at the chains and tensioners to make sure all is well. Where your chain tensioners faulty or is the noise just something to get used to?
I've simply welded a couple shims in between the tensioner arm base and the sides of the chain case w/ bolt that holds it in place to minimize lateral movement. The 5640 (with 600 hrs.) I have currently has the same noise at times in the right chain case, but have not opened the cover at this point. Never have had to correct the problem in the left chain case for some odd reason.
Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it. I'll keep you posted on what I find in there once I open it up. I'm guessing I'll find the exact problem you described.
Another update for those interested. I've put about 60 or 70 hours on the 5635 so far. I'm very very happy with it still. It starts and runs like a champ. I've had the cab up several times and have spent some time cleaning and tidying up the engine bay. I pulled the floor and foot rests and found a lifetime of junk under there. On top of mud and grass there was 4 wrenches, 2 screwdrivers and an 1 1/4" socket!! My next project was to seal up all the gaps in the cab as the drafts were out of control. I stripped the entire interior out and all the front panels and sealed up everything..I made proper foam insulation for under the cab sides. The foam strip under the seat wasn't touching so I made a new one which really gets rid of engine sounds as there was a 1" gap under the whole seat right into the engine bay. I installed a product like dynamat under the seat, behind the seat and anywhere I could get at. I then put 2 layers of bubble foil insulation over that and finished up with some nice black carpet. Total cost was about $65 and the difference in the sound level in the cab is quite drastic.. I'm really happy with how it turned out. I have quite a bit of hearing damage from years of construction and riding motorcycles so I like a quinter cab. I do wear eye defenders but I found the noise was still pretty bad.. Next up was sorting out the heater in here. I removed it and found that the outlet pipe coming out of the heater was very kinked so my brother is going to remove the 90s and solder new ones on. The heater gets hots but once you turn the fan on the heat seems to die down like it wasn't getting enough oil. Other then that I've just been using and enjoying it. It's a great machine and can lift way more then it should!! The gehl controls are great and I find I can use them for hours without getting tired.. I'll keep updating my progress as I go. I have a couple of cylinders to rebuild and I still haven't opened up the right chain case to find my rattle. There's not much on gelhs on the internet so I figure if I post as a go on here it should maybe help others out.