Have to replace chains etc. on a ZX120. Done it before but impact wrenches couldn't remove the bolts. Any wisdom? A torch is tedious.
How big of an impact ? For that size of a machine a good 3/4 gun and good compressor should have no problem I would think. If not then up it to a 1" impact. Any pad swap I have done, impacts have worked and usually less than a dozen or so had to be torched off
Definitely. And don't make the mistake of trying to run a 3/4" or 1" impact through a 1/2" hose. You end up strangling the impact for air.
Turn right with 1" impact. Usually only takes a half turn and they snap.
you would be surprised how much I see this in the field... they think my impact/compressor is bad ***$$ compared to theirs!!! LOL
Induction heating perhaps a consideration?
This time the 3/4 had no problem with the bolts, except it started puking oil everywhere after a few pads. It's about 10 years old (IR 258) and I couldn't find a rebuild kit. My only local source for tools wanted $550 for a 261. On Amazon they're $397. It'll be here Wednesday, then I can get on with the job. Plenty to do between now and then.
Something a little strange, one chain is pointing one way and the other is pointing the other way. I haven't done this job in years but I seem to remember both chains pointing that same way. ???
Yup, LOL! As I recall the part of the track that lays on the ground, bushing forward, pin bosses toward the back.
You have one on backwards.
Thanks Lantraxco, one more question (for now). On the EX's I did, they had a tapered master pin with a snap ring on the inside. The new chains for the Zaxis 120 have pins with a slightly raised portion on either end- no snapring groove. I'm wondering if i'll be able to drive them in with a sledge?
Deeretracks probably has more experience at this, I was lucky enough we always had a track pin press somewhere near. The master pins are machined down a bit in the middle so you don't have to drive the full length, it helps. When using a hydraulic press we used regular track pins, cheaper and they stay in better, but then we did a lot of log loaders and fellers. Stick the pins in the freezer overnight, or if you can get some dry ice chunks in a cooler, put the pins under some dry ice, remember to use good gloves or handle the pins with pliers or something, if you touch them your hands will freeze to the pins, not pretty. Warm the links slightly and be ready with a good drift and sledge hammer. Make sure you have the back side of the chain blocked securely so you get a solid hit. Just rambling, it's been a while and it's bringing back memories!
That makes sense. I have done some cryo fitting. This machine has currently has the snap ring type pin. The groove is actually in the link. I'll try to get this style because they weren't hard to put in last time. Just now getting to this job. At least I don't have to look for something to do when things a quiet.
Yeah you can drive that pin home. I've done it on 330LC's. Make a good drift with a handle someone can hold onto and go to work with the sledge. A bit of heat on the link goes a long ways too. Only thing that sucks about the tapered pin style is that most of the time the ends of the snap ring are rusted and gone so you gave to melt it out with a torch.
Have you considered sending your tracks in to a local pad swap facility? I don't know what the cost would be, but hand bombing it has can cost more in the long run if the pads start coming loose and wearing the rails.
Sorry, as you can see, I just joined the forum. My post was a reply to an earlier question!