Any advantage to either. Not looking for auto type finish just clean up and no rust to look good at 50-2000 feet Looking to paint my telehandlers before winter. Thanks for any insight in advance.
Speedpup, to give the guys something to do this past spring we got them to paint, with a brush, our EX200. It was looking rough and had been a victim to graffiti in the past. We were going to take it and have it done professionally, but when work slowed down we figured if it turns out bad we will send it out. It took two guys a week to paint it, but it turned out better than I expected. They painted over the decals then, taped the outlines and painted the letters white. Everyone that comes to our yard comments on it. We also painted all of our trench boxes. It is amazing how something will look better with a fresh coat of paint. I will try to get some pictures, but it probably needs to be seen in person.
brush can do OK but I can't get everywhere with a brush and time is a concern also. To do them I just have weekends unless I run out of work, then I won't want to spend the money. Going to buy a small sandblaster just for small spots hard to sand.
Definitely spray her w/ a gun!
I don't know if you mean a Wagner Power Painter for airless or the industrial airless spray guns. I've worked with the big air powered airless guns that use an air pump to put out straight paint and liked them very well for large projects. Painting Raygo Wagner log stackers comes to mind. Possibly using one of the electric rigs I'm seeing house painters now using would be all right. The automotive style HVLP guns really put on a great finish if you know what you are doing and can get the paint set up properly. Last time I used one of these I had to have a certain thinner and a specific hardener for each color of paint and temperature I was working in. Typically the types of paint used on equipment have automotive origins and are very expensive. Last time I did a job the paint was somewhere around $45 a pint and the hardener cost $80 for a little bottle. The worst part about painting was the environmental crap that goes with the thinner and cleanings. You also have to be far away from other items like cars and houses as the overspray always travels three or four times farther than you expect. If you are not careful a bureaucrat can show up at your door and these guys don't offer to help. Hope this helps. Good Luck!
doin a repaint i did proffesional automotive collision repair and refinish work, and restoration on cars and trucks.for 30 years plus. some guys go to this extreme with equipment they dont really use! show/parade tractor.i really enjoyed doin show work on old farm tractors! but in reality, if you got a early useable piece of equipment, just power wash it real good, mask the obvious, and spay it with paint from the dealer, or ur local s/w store!they will have a industrial enamel for ur tractor! i now manage a paint store that supplies the body shops! i can help you all with paint for about 4x the money!
For about 4x the money? - wow that's a good deal....THANKS!
I see airless sprayers for 300-1000 at Sherwin Williams. Last time I painted them was early nineties with an air gun and True Value paint. They never rusted but did fade. I was probably going to use Sherwin Williams paint at about 45-50 per gallon. I will just be spraying them in my outside yard on a day without much wind I hope. thanks all for the tips
I have been painting for over 20 years painting things from toys to excavators. I would recommend using a synthetic or acrylic enamel . The cheapest way is to buy it from a equipment dealer they sell the paint for around $30.00 + a gal. I worked in a paint store in high school the owner was a old school painter and showed me to mix bull dog (liquid sand ) in place of the reducer. I have used this in cat paints ppg du pont and had no problems, and it makes the paint lay out . I would recommend mix a small amount due to the paint companies are all different. As for paint guns I would not use a paint gun that uses electricity due to the auto paint is flammable . As for prepping I found that hotsy ripper II works the best or use a caustic based cleaner the seem to etch the old paint better. then wipe the paint down with bull dog and paint. I have used cheap spray guns and expensive ones if you paint with synthetic paint the cheap ones work better due to the orifice is bigger and puts out more paint. Here are some of the tings that I have painted over the years
here are some more photos
Those look really good
SKP 428 if they came out that nice I would not be able to use them Thanks for the tips. I'll see what the paint is I wanted to use is.
It makes me sick when they scratch the paint , but I look at this way job security for me .
I was an industrial painter for 7 years before the diesel and yellow iron bug bit. Now I'm doing it again to supplement my non existent construction income. I've always preferred my Graco airless for big equipment. Hardware store air dry enamels work very well through the airless: it handles the thick viscosity very well. When spraying two-companent urethanes etc the airless can do a fine job but I often prefer the pressure pot or cup gun. I switched away from HVLP guns awhile ago due to them not handling thick viscosity paints very well. We currently are using Plus guns from Devilbiss or RP guns from Sata. These guns are easy to set like the old conventionals, are just about as efficient as HVLP's, and lay a much superior finish.
Welcome to the forum Abscraperguy. :usa I have a question that your experience may be able to answer, then maybe speedpup might pick your brain as well. When we unload the attachments we sell after being shipped from the fabricator, a number of them have the paint pretty scuffed up. These get sanded at the rough spots, then we re-paint them with a gravity feed gun shooting black alkyd enamel. Problem is, it's not painting all day everyday, just occasionally, this leads to constantly emptying and cleaning the gun. My question is; is there a sprayer that we can just set the gun down, without cleaning it out, until it's ready for the next job? Or is that a crazy idea? You can tell I know nothing about paint.
What size dozer is in the reflection SKP? she in for paint as well???
When we unload the attachments we sell after being shipped from the fabricator, a number of them have the paint pretty scuffed up. These get sanded at the rough spots, then we re-paint them with a gravity feed gun shooting black alkyd enamel. Problem is, it's not painting all day everyday, just occasionally, this leads to constantly emptying and cleaning the gun. My question is; is there a sprayer that we can just set the gun down, without cleaning it out, until it's ready for the next job? Or is that a crazy idea? You can tell I know nothing about paint. If the paint is a single component paint here is what I do. Buy a cheap spray gun and keep it full of paint with the lid on. Make sure the needle seats well in the fluid cap and no seepage. After every spray just make sure your air cap is perfectly clean or just throw it in a container of gunwash. It also is important to keep the gun upright during storage. Obviously not cleaning the gun would not work on two component or induction hardened paints.
spray painting did spray painting for ever! did mostly automotive! went from siphon feed guns for many years, to gravity feed guns!the new guns are great for the pocket and whatever you are shooting at!!!!!!! you get a great job, and use way less paint!!!!!!!!!
Ahahahaha - man, you are twisted. You saw that????:lmao