Hello All, My JCB 215TLB has the above referenced motor and fuel injection pump in it. The engine runs fine, but will not shutdown when I turn off the key. The engine goes into a very low idle. I had to back out the idle set screw on the pump and push the throttle linkage beyond its normal idle position to get it to stop. The fuel cut-off solenoid is working. Some folks on other forums have told me to replace the "latch valves". The pump has (2) of them. The one on outer side is accessible. The one sandwiched between the pump and engine, is not. Any ideas on what I should be looking at? Does it sound like the latching valves? What is the function of the latching valves? And if I wanted to pull the pump to service it, what do I have to do to ensure I don't screw up the timing? Appreciate any help you may be able to offer. Thanks, Rich
There is a timing pin that you insert in the front gear and you pull the bolts off not the one nut on the pump shaft. you can get the pin from Perkins
Thanks Dave. Not sure what you mean by "pull the bolts off not the one nut on the pump shaft". Don't you need to remove the nut securing the pump to the drive gear in order to remove the pump? Or are you talking about the locking bolt on the side of the pump? Thanks
Well on the 215 I worked on it had a hub attached to the pump shaft and the gear was bolted to the hub
Ok, much thanks!
All info is correct.. & the symptoms do sound like a stuck or broken spring in the latch valve..
Thank you thepumpguysc. Can you tell me a little more about what the function of the latch valve is? What do they do? Is there only (1) latch valve in the DP210, or are there (2)? And I'm not sure I understand why I need to pin the gear driving the pump if I'm not removing the gear and will not be rotating the engine? Dave makes it sound like I'm removing the pump from a hub that is attached to the drive gear. Doesn't the locking bolt on the side of the pump lock the pump timing? Do you need to pin the drive gear if the motor is not rotated while the pump is removed? Is the pin going into the pump, or the gear driving the pump? Thanks!
The latch valve is for starting.. almost like a choke.. it dumps A lot of fuel into the engine.. & when the plunger gets stuck or the spring breaks, the excess fuel won’t allow the engine to shut off.. Isn’t there a manual shut off lever behind the throttle lever.??(short spring loaded lever) The timing pin that goes thru the pump gear locks the engine(6:00) And the locking pin on the pump locks the inj pump drive shaft.. It would b best to time the engine until u can insert the pin or back end of a drill bit..(forget the size) THEN LOCK THE PUMP.. If u remove 1 of the bolts in the gear, you’ll see it oblong.. to fine tune the timing.. The drive hub on the pump is not keyed.. so don’t take it off.!! There’s only 1 latch valve..& it’s probably against the engine.??
Thanks thepumpguysc! So the latch valve dumps in extra fuel for starting and works in conjunction with the "cold start solenoid" on the bottom of the pump? I don't see a manual shut off lever behind the throttle lever (see attached exploded diagram from manual) So I found a DP210 manual. There are (2) "valves" that look very similar. One is the "Light Load Advance" (LLA) valve and the other is the "Latch Valve". Can I simply replace the latch valve - unscrew the old one and screw in a new one? Or does the latch valve have to be adjusted to work correctly? (See attached excepts from the service manual) It appears it needs to be adjusted to work correctly. It sounds like you need a "Carriage Position Sensor" (CPS) to set the latch valve. I have a hard time understanding the graph in the adjustment procedure. Are they making it more complicated than it really is? Thanks!
The pump is very complicated..& it doesn’t belong in an agricultural setting.. thanks EPA.!! The latch valve is/was set at the factory.. the adjustment is a very small metric Allen screw.. When u buy a new one, it WILL NOT come w the tamper proof cap on the very end.. U NEED TO order 1.. otherwise it will leak fuel.. Pry the old cap out.. THEN screw the Allen head screw down until it bottoms.. COUNTING THE TURNS.!! When u get the new one, bottom it out & count the turns OUT that u got on the old screw. If I remember correctly, it’s 1 & 1/4 turns out.. Pound the tamper cap in, lube the orings & put it in the hole.. Do not Herculoid it in.. a nice snug is all u need..(200inlbs)
OR pry the cap out of the old 1.. Turn the Allen screw down till it bottoms.. COUNTING THE TURNS.. now unscrew it.. being careful not to drop any of the small parts.. Use a sharp scribe to pry out the filter on the bottom of the body.. if it has 1.. Now try to free up the stuck piston that in the body.. or the spring might b broken.?? U CANT BUY the individual parts.. except for the tamper cap and filter.(if it has 1) So if ur spring is broken.. ur buying a whole assembly.. PLUS u STILL NEED a tamper cap.. I have a small herd ofm..
The adjustment screw determines when & at what pressure the starting fuel kicks out.. So follow the old screws setting..
Thanks very much thepumpguysc! Appreciate your thorough, detailed response. Thanks for the help
Hello Everyone, Just wanted to let everyone know that "thepumpguysc" solved my engine run-on issue. Per his diagnosis, I replaced the latch valve and the engine now shuts down like it should! Thanks very much for your help thepumpguysc - really appreciate it! Thanks again
I have an ASV PT 100 that has the same symptoms. No shut off and a low idle with key off. Did you have to remove the injection pump off the engine to make this repair? Thank you in advance I’m new to this
U can check the electric shut off solenoid.. it will pass water by it BUT will corrode a little.. Older solenoids can b removed and the guts can b removed..(spring and plunger) On the newer solenoids, the guts are trapped and will NOT come out. The LATCH VALVE may or may not b accessible.. it’s located on the side of the pump.. Just google “dp200 latch valve”
KWE, I did not have to remove the pump from the engine to replace the latch valve or the fuel cut off solenoid. But I think this will vary from one manufacturer or model to another. Accessibility of each will depend on configuration of the mounting of the pump to the engine. Good luck