hello-my name is Bill. Our neibor has a massey with a a4-236 perkins diesel.Heres some history and symptoms. Old man Hadley replaced the block and crank, he installed new sleeves and for the life of me ,I dont know but he replaced only one piston.The injectors were rebuilt at bootheel diesel-a reputable bunch and the head was gone thru at a local machine shop.After all that she wont start. it seems to have compression and smokes heavy with some raw fuel at the exhaust. WE have a manual and at 23degrees btdc the C mark on the pump is at the flat on the snap ring just as the book shows. it will also begin to throw fuel out the #1 line on comp stroke at 23 deg. At tdc on #1 the companion cyl-#4 valves are rocking and we observed the intake on #4 opening 3 flywheel teeth btdc and then the exh closing 5 flywheel teeth atdc . Hadly swears all the timing marks were aligned I sure wish I had seen it. One other clue- we did get it to fire by turning the pump as far as it would go in the direction of rotation while heating the intake air with one of those supersonic hair dryers. Any helpful advice would kindly be appreciated.
Looks like pull timing cover and double check timing marks as you said you wish you could of seen them then you can eliminate this from the cause.
If you could get it to fire by moving the timing.. basically that's what you did when you moved the inj. pump.. Depending on which way you moved it, you either, advanced or retarded the timing.. THAT TELLS ME.. the gears are off.. not much.. but then again, it doesn't take much.. I know that not what you wanted to hear.. but... Good luck..
I know you said you got it to fire by moving the timing but I just thought I'd mention this fuel bleeding tip... On my A4-248 with the rotary style injector pump, if it got any air in the fuel system, it would refuse to start unless I loosened two of the high pressure pipes at the injectors. I can't remember which two (either 1 and 4 or 2 and 3) but it was the two that connect to the top half of the injector pump. The engine would then start on two cylinders allowing air and fuel to escape out of the two loose unions. While the engine was running, I could tighten the two fittings and it would be running fine from then on. A healthy battery helps too (they like to be cranked fast). Chris (former MF50HX owner).
i DO KNOW THAT the block was gas-if the cam was gas could that be the prob?:Banghead
No idea here on a gas block or cam. I do remember seeing somewhere that at least some of those old perkins had unique timing gear alignment, in that the marks on the idler gears won't line up every turn or every other turn, it was like a thousand turns, so you have to take them off to line everything up, you might not ever be able to tell if it was lined up right or not just going by the timing marks on the gears. I'm sure there's a way to line up the cam, crank and pump without all the idlers being "in phase" but I don't know? This might not apply, just thought I'd bring it up in case you run into it.
All timing marks are correct. Is there a difference in the gas vs diesel crankshaft in the 4.236 perkins?
I would think the crankshaft for the diesel would be much heavier .
is the cam shaft new? or the old one that was in the engine? and was the engine torn down in running condition?
The original engine ran we re-used the cam pistons and head. all else has been replaced like frankenstien ,old man Hadley has about given up. I want a compression check.
does it start on the ether if so I've run into a couple engines lately that the compression being down so far they won't start just get the raw fuel unless use a little ether
Diesel cranks gott'a be different than gas cranks. That's where they get the stroke to give them compression, pulling the piston deeper into the bore...because both gas or diesel have a piston that end up at the top of the deck...gas with 8:1 or so, diesel with 18:1 or so. I know nothing about a Perkins but there is no reason the cranks could/would not be interchangeable. If so, you've set up a diesel engine with an 8:1 gas crank and it will NEVER run, period. Compression test is the best bet, but if the valve timing is off it won't tell you much. Verify the crank is correct, Verify the cam is correct, verify the timing is correct, verify the injector timing is correct and it should run. Man, this is NOT what you should be doing at this point. If you've been cranking and cranking on a fresh motor, you could have already trashed the cam...one of the worst thing you can do is CRANK........... It needs to fire the FIRST TIME like it has 20 hours on it. I know that sound harsh but there is a lot of time and money involved to just GUESS... Many hopes and good thoughts your way and hope it's simple and you get it going!!!
No, the stroke and the bore make the displacement. The head (volume of the combustion chamber) makes the compression ratio. Take the bolts/studs out of the injection pump and rotate it till it runs smoothest, then change the gear so that is in the center of the bolt adjustment range, or drill yourself some new holes... I wonder if the crank is the same except for the angle on the gear? That would be odd, but I can't think of anything else, I can't see the cam being different enough that you'd notice it with it not being a turbo.
The engine runs-Hadleys frankenstien engine had the wrong crank-therefore low comp and no start. Thanks - Bill