Still trying to figure out how to upload images
I think you need a certain amount of posts
3 posts is the number of posts you need to have before you can post a pic.
Thank guys
Bummer, still no image icon.
The Boss said I can post pics now
Nice looking truck. Need to do something with those shocks, stick out like a sore thumb.
Come on now Its getting painted.
Nice looking truck.
Thank you
Got anymore pics of the front suspension? Did you change the shackle setup in the rear or does that leaf have a flatter bend to it? Great looking truck, I love the clean and simple ones, less is more.
Thanks. No more pics right now. I'm taking them and posting them as I go. Before I started this project of lowering the truck, I did lots of research looking for pics and information on the internet and there is hardly any. That's why I started this thread, for anyone with questions or someone who wants to do it too. No, the factory shackles and springs are used. Basically, to lower the front of the truck you have several options depending on how low you want to go (Drop axle with stock springs, stock axle with one leaf spring and an air ride set-up or a drop axle with one spring and an air ride kit, which is what I did). You can go even lower, but more mods are needed to the engine and chassis. My axle is about 1/2" from my oil pan with the air dumped, but I have a Cat C-15. If I had a Cummins or a Cat C-12 or C-13 there would be much more room to lower it if I wanted to modify the chassis. If you guys have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. We are here to learn.
When you slicked the top, did you pull the lights and weld the holes shut?
Cool, I assume you've done away with the stock axle pitch block and have a much thinner one? What size tire is that? Rims are 22.5's I assume.
Petes have a fiberglass lid so I assume he was able to putty them shut but I'll let him answer. lol
i thought the lid was aluminum like the rest of the cab.. oops
The roof is aluminum. I just pulled the headliner and capped all the holes with aluminum plate and cold weld (JB Weld).
The company I purchased the air ride kit from told me to remove all the alignment shims and spacers. The tires are 255 70R 22.5's.
Sorry, I stand corrected. Maybe just the ultracabs are fiberglass. I know every untracab I've been into is fiberglass.
Damn that is one sweet pete. I wish I could figure out how to drop my F650 would make using the rolloff system better!
I'm sure we can figure something out to get it down in the weeds!
I keep thinking about it, it has leafs and on 22.5 wheels just never good with how it would be capable. I like how you have it on air, so when I got to dump site could raise it up. I am defintely going to follow your thread and see where it goes and keep brainstorming for myself
is that the 12 ga front axle air ride kit?
Yup, I got the air ride and the visor from 12 ga. Great workmanship and great service.
do you have any pics of how you mount the front of your rear fenders? thanks
I have not mounted them yet, they are just sitting on the tires. The truck has Flex Air suspension so I'm still thinking of a few different ways I can make a front mount that looks nice. I don't want to get something that just bolts on like a Hogebuilt stainless fender bracket. I will probably make something and when I get to that point I will post pics of it.
http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?v=10152473421755257&set=vb.536845256&type=2&theater I hope this link works. A video of the air ride system in action.
Its nice your putting this all up line! Like you said before there's hardly any info online for aftermarket truck stuff like this, so thank you!
:thumbsup
that is one beautiful truck!
Thanks
That link wouldn't work for me, might have to be friends. What are the relay valves in the batt box for? Front susp?
Yeah, I can't get the link to work. Yes, the valves are for the front air bags. They are both R-12's. One valve controls filling and the other dumps.
Absolutely beauitiful truck dude!!!! Done right. Don't forget to flip that jake switch down in town......them culverts will break windows!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks, and I will
Wow, those are some great pics of the build. Especially with that airride front axle. I was actually searching online last night for more info on that and...........crickets...then I saw this thread and your pics.
Thanks. Hope this thread helps. If you guys have any questions go ahead and ask. I had the hardest time finding info/pics on lowered trucks, air ride installations and other stuff like this when I was doing research before I started.
Are you going to use the rear lightbar to support your fenders? Looks like an easy, clean way to hide the hardware.
Yup, going to bolt the fenders directly to the light bar.
sweet, it's going to look killer. Can't wait to see more pics here and over at hotrodrigs.
Ever sweet!!
Before and After
what size of visor is that? thanks
11" outside, 8" inside.
Close the front wheel well opening a bit to match the tire radius and it will look meaner and more proportioned. More like your new rear fenders do. Great job with the build and the pictorial. Thanks
Thank you, I wish I could. I have learned so much during this build. I have a C-15 and it is probably the worst engine to have if you want to lower your 379 Pete. My axle is about 1/2" away from the oil pan right now. If I had a C-12, C-13, or a N-14 Cummins, I'd be able to de-arch my front springs and really put this truck on the ground
What I meant was to change the opening radius by replacing the fender with aftermarket or adding material to your existing fender to more closely match the radius of your tires. Sorry for the confusion. Ron
Oh, I see. Ron, you are probably the 5th person to tell me that. So its obviously something that catches people's eyes. I don't know why, but I've always liked that look. I think I've always used it as a gauge to tell how low a truck is and now I just like that look. We all have little weird things about us, this is one of mine. Thank you for your comments and suggestions, they are always appreciated.
Great stuff. I understand. Keep building and adding and subtracting parts and metal. It is a cool project. All I have is a KW T-800 dump.
There are only two things, Dave can't fix or weld; a broken heart and the crack in your ass.
Really nice looking truck. Great job on cleaning everything up. I would love to do one of these, but have no real use for a lowered semi, so it will have to wait till I will the lottery.
Thank you Eric
Bitchin !
as we say in the UK this truck is "the dogs bollocks!":drinkup
lmao, gotta use that one. Thanks
That is a nice looking rig now. I would not have any use for it, but can respect the amount of work it takes to have a custom like that. Is it going to be a working truck, or just for show?
Thank you. Still deciding between all deck plate, polished aluminum 5th wheel or a goose neck. I'll just show it here and there, but its hardly a show truck.
Don't have time to work on the truck this week, but here are some pics I took last Saturday.
Your truck sure looks good!
That is low!Nice job, i like it low and simple.
WOW that's a great lil day cab! Bravo
Thanks Guys
Those custom angle iron rear bumper hangers are awesome...just bustin' your twig n berries...ever consider a texas square and a straight 13" drop versus the bowtie...my opinion... would give her the "GRRR" factor. Maybe you did it already but the airlines in the step box..drill a bigger hole and put a grommet so your airline don't rub through. getting slammed when you least expect it might give you a bad "pucker effect" planning on hiding the air/electric lines in the frame with quick connects in the back? paint those rear shocks that puurrdy crisp white maybe anyways I appreciate somebody who's doing the work themselves, not just writing a check for somebody to do it. forgot to ask "what's her name"? you did name her didn't you. nice work again, keep on keepin' on
one that's closer to windshield I meant, maybe a flat mount
LOL Thank you, different strokes for different folks I just call her "The Pete." Yeah, those shocks and most the truck is getting painted. Nothin worse than a black frame, rusted tail light bar, unpainted tail plate and yellow shocks. Not show ready for sure, Lmao!
make sure you put extra padding on the undersides of both bumpers, that way the peta pushers won't get mad at you for killing gophers...you'll just give em a nasty bump on their heads:lmao
Slammed I assume this truck is out of the pulling business and just for showing? A lot of hard work done on this and it looks very conservative and clean. I am not a "lowered" fan but your truck looks really good and I am looking forward to seeing the painted pictures once that is complete.
:lmaomake sure you take those two tacky bullet hole stickers off the side of the hood where the peterbilt oval was attached to:lmao that isn't the original white it was before right? this looks more "vanilla white" but if it is the same white, than I can't see worth a toot. if you ever see that vanilla white, it has a warm.... like wrapped up in a wool blanket with a hot cup of coco in front of a fireplace on a cold winter day type of warm feeling:falldownlaugh any under cab/hood/frame lighting? are there any supports on the under side of the back full fenders, like say in the middle? with your mounts that low it is going to pick a new spot to have to flex and jiggle at. my thoughts if I was a shiny full fender. again nice play by play with the trucker porn pictures, I think everybody likes step by step
*edit to my post* after further review and taking dust off my glasses, I indeed see there are supports in the center of the fenders, I take full responsibility of my lack of detective work and laziness for back clicking and scrolling. Forgive me:notworthy
They will just get mad at me for something else, lol :thumbsup
Thank you Yeah, just gonna have fun with it. Something I've always wanted to build
Good for you I bet is sounds good with those big pipes? I can hear'm on the CB now talking down the line about that Pete up in the front door.
HaHa, All Good The hood side panels are being filled and painted the factory cream color, so there will be no emblems on the sides. I wish the cab was pure white, cause the cream kinda limits my options for the second color. Pure white would go with pretty much any color. Yeah, I am going to install lights on the truck, but I'm going to wait until I'm done with everything else. I want to hide them as good as possible. I think lights should be seen at night, not during the day Before I started this project I spent hours on the internet looking for information and pics on how to lower a peterbilt 379 and do other kinds of custom stuff. I was hardly able to find anything. So I figured I would start a thread and try to make it easier for next guy, lol. Enjoy...
Yeah, it sounds pretty good. I took the muffler off and cut the stacks down 18 inches so it will be easier to drive around town and not be the number one tree trimmer in the County, lol.
still not as drop dead goregous as my girl, oh my sweet "Summertime Blues"...haha I couldn't resist
That truck is a Beast! Very Nice!
thanks, she definately gets some rubber neckin' action going, first you hear her couple miles away, then you see her and leaves 'em with memories lol..most times never complete...a person always finds something different you can add or change
Probably has a straight piped and chipped Sig 600 puttin 800 at the tires. Looks like it could rip a house off its foundation and drag it down the street, lol.
:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh straight pipes definately..drive loud-drive proud... early 3406B and I mean early..when I had it rebuilt at KW(yes very ouch, young and dumb and learned my lesson) the main service tech didn't know what it was...so I won't beat anybody to the races, but what she lacks in performance..she makes up in sweet style I laugh when people grab my herd bumper and try to pull on it just to see how sturdy it is..I tell them it's my expensive sausage maker, sad part is, I've yet to nail a deer. I did that with my previous two texas squares. Sleepy middle of the night coming back from sale barn, dog tired, thought you saw something outta the corn of your eye, then think, naw it must have......BAM blood, doo doo and fur on the windshield, banged up bumper, but luckily nothing else, maybe bout doo doo myself, thump thump. Oh that can't be good. Get out and look, oh yeah, that ain't good (think to yourself to go pound that deer in the butt and show him who's boss and get the last laugh of course:lmao ) then stew the other 150 miles home. I love it when god throws his creatures at you. Good times. You got any other ideas for "Petey"?
Ummhmm...that's what I'm talkin' bout *snap snap*:naughty Liking the 2 side bumper lights.....so will rocks hehe
Great thread love reading build threads like these..I'm a do it urselfer as aswell... That is one low Pete! I'm am currently working on my first project truck a 99 379 Pete myself I want to get a couple of inches lower in the front but don't know how to go about it...I heard u can remove the spacer blocks under the axle and just leave the shim and get shorter u bolts..don't know how true it is...
Thank you. Yes, you can remove the blocks between the axle and the springs. Peterbilt installed different size blocks so you might have a 1" block, you might have a 4" block. If you lower the front too much it will throw off your driveline angles and cause a vibration. If you end up removing the blocks completely, you will need to remove the dowel pins from the axle. If you have a 4" block, you might end up replacing it with a 2" or 3" block.
I measured my blocks there like 3in to 2in since they slope down...how Do u know how low u can go before u get vibrations? I'm glad I asked before I just went ahead and removed the blocks..lol any one have a part number for the smaller blocks and what size of u bolts need? I have a old axle there I and I was trying to figure how you would go about removing the dowel pin it's in there pretty good,,,I guessing there has to be sum heating involved ..
The best way to get those dowels out is weld a large nut to the end of the dowel and use heat, a hammer and a breaker bar to turn it loose and get it out. I'm not sure exactly how low you will be able to go. That is going to depend on the specs of your truck and the type of suspension you have. I think going down an inch or two in the front wont hurt and if it does you will feel it and might have to raise it back up or make other mods to keep your driveline angles happy.
Thanks for the info... im really looking for the best way to go about this..i hate stock i love hotrods and build sum as my hobby and now that i bought my first truck i want to incorporate sum custom parts and looks that will set it apart down the road...well I have low air leafs out back the truck is a 99 379 American classic with a 3406e and a eaton super 10..380 factory wheel base I will try to post sum pics
Awesome, please let me know how it works out.
Super mini singles....I like those ones right there I tell ya
Hey, what's goin' on here....you're stripping her...future dump box:O Somebody is exercising their thinker again
Lmao Gotta get this thing ready for paint someday
I told ya those gophers were gonna rip that bumper off. Are you putting some air cylinders on so you can flip it forward so you don't bottom out? Seen that at Wheel Jam Truck Show in Huron S.D.
Decided to sell the bumper and get an 18" boxed sqaure bumper. boltless. I'm not gonna put the flip bumper kit on it, I'll just try to be extra careful. Its not gonna get driven much.
If you can get away with a 20" do it..trust me...you'll like those two extra inches you always wanted:lmao Esp. if you are gonna put the flip kit on. She will look Ssssaweeeet! If a person only could rig up a warning light that gives you a pleasant reminder to flip the bumper up BEFORE you dump the air to you show off to friends or envious onlookers
I have a suspicious feeling that there are 10" miter cut stacks in your future:usa
There is just something that looks disgusting to me about big bumpers. 18" is the biggest I would put on. I do like miter cut stacks more than the flat tops, but at $400.00 each, I can live with the flat tops
That rascal is looking good and I might add I've learned a lot from your post and pictures. Could you guestimate amount of hours to date on this project? Keep up the hard work. :notworthy
Thank you. I'm glad you are learning from it, that's why I posted it up. I probably have about 270 hours in her so far.
no B & W flip over ball, so nobody will see your ball showing when you're not using it? I saw a guy put a receiver hitch in his rear bumper setup much like yours. I thought it was quite nifty looking. Adds another useful tool for the big rig. Incase you wanted to pull your boat or something:tong She's getting closer and closer to that "fancy shmancy point"
probably don't matter,why the weld across the flang of frame.
I ordered this darn thing with a chrome ball and I got this thing, lol. Whatever, not a show truck
I'm confused, but that happens easily, lol. Which weld you mean?
Me too...the good weld or all the poopy ones:lmao Just kidding Slammed, I just couldn't resist. Hey I just noticed that that there truck ya got, have one of them canadian spreads eh? (no offense to any canadian that took offense to the "eh" reference)...we all have quirks about us that make us all great!:drinkup if barney still exists, he should have that learning saying on there..then everybody can hug afterwards:falldownlaugh
I don't think so, just the small tires leave a larger gap between the tandems.
Looking great Slammed. I wish I had your shop to play in. You are really deep in this project and I realize it's a ton of hard work. The 379exhd is my all time favorite.
Thank you!
Any suggestions for rear suspension? Saw u made a swap in the pics but no walk thru? Truck looks absolutely perfect and is done w a lot of taste...
Thank you. Feel free to ask me any questions you want about the rear suspension. Basically, I replaced the lower air bag mounts with mounts that are flat instead of the factory ones that have a 3" rise in them. That was worth 3 inches. Then I shaved an inch off the base of each air bag base, that was worth an inch. Then I relocated the shocks because they bottomed out when in the factory position.
Did u buy the bases from 12gauge or where do u get those at?
** bag mounts
Yes, I purchased the front air ride kit from 12 Gauge.
No worries about carb making you an outlaw?
I registered it for the 1,000 mile a year exemption. I might put 500 miles a year on this truck.
What a great documentation of your build! This will help others, it is nice to share Do you have a color scheme chosen for cab & frame?
Thank you. The cab and hood will remain that color. Painting the frame, front fenders, rear fenders, roof cap and visor orange.
I am subscribed!, Looking forward to seeing this project thru the end.
Really cool!
Paint Shop Tomorrow!!
Looking good :notworthy Thanks for the updates :scool
Thank you!
Pretty kool truck, what holds your fuel tank covers on ? What will you pull with this truck? Can't wait to see the final paint, love white - orange or white - red combo.
Thank you. You can use Velcro or double sided tape to hold them down. I don't know if I'm going to use the covers. I think it looks better without them, we'll see. I might get a gooseneck race car trailer and pull my race car with it. I'm mostly building the truck for shows and parades, its something I've always wanted to do, build a custom Peterbilt
Guidecoat on the frame, its going to be straight that's for sure. Glad to see the time you are taking on this truck, its going to be well worth it when its all done.
Thank you
How much difference was there between the car hauler front axel and the standard axel you took out. I have a 359 with a 3406 in it and like you said I have about 1/2 between the axel and the pan. Only way to go lower is with a car hauler front axel but not sure how much difference there is. Im thinking its not very much.
Also did your track width change I cant go any wider than what i am.
The difference is 1.5" and the width is the same. Keep in mind the front end will come down 1.5" with just the axle swap. It will/should come down more than that because of the additional weight transfer from the rear to the front. Mine dropped over 2" with the axle swap.
This project is really looking good. Will you be using the fattest super singles available on the rear or duals ? Ron
Thanks, I'm going to use the duals.
My old pete has a eaton axel under it currently didnt you have a car hauler eaton numer as well? Thinking I can use the hubs and stuff I currently have over again on another eaton axel..
Went looking thru ur post on the other site eaton 13011 sound right?
I think the axle you are looking for is an Eaton E1320I (5" drop). I don't know why, but it seems everyone purchases the Meritor FF943 when they want a drop axle. Maybe they are more common and easier to get. I don't think Eaton makes the E1320I anymore and it was replaced with the E1322I. Any Eaton axle with a "W" on the end of the axle model means the axle is a "wide axle." For example you might find an E1320IW, this is a 5" drop axle, but is an extra wide axle and probably not something you want. Hope this helps.
Very helpful indeed. I have been looking for info like you just posted for months. I have nothing against getting a rockwell /meritor Just most of them are older and use bud style wheels and I have unimount. So thats just more money if I have to buy/ find different hubs. I mean would eaton hubs fit on Rockwelll spindles? I also have to find one with a center pin spacing of 32.5 inches. If you got 2 inches of drop I may get more as I am 310 wheelbase. I was laying under the truck the other day getting the Front beam tag info and got to thinking I think I can put a 1" spacer in the front motor mount and that with the car hauler axel will let me set the bumper on ground with LP 24.5 ...For the rear tandem Im pretty much stuck with the heigth it is. Its a b*****d truck and has an 8 bag kw cutoff under it. Good info Slammed and Great looking Pete.
You have Eaton hubs? Are you sure they are not Conmets?
Im not sure on the hubs. Has eaton brake backing plates I assumed the whole thing is eaton. They want alot for thoes eaton axels im gonna source a rockwell with uni mount. Then I wouldnt have to swap hubs.
You most likely have Conmet hubs. The hubs off my Eaton axle went right on the Meritor.
Ohh yeah! Looking sweet. So much friggin work you have done. I am in the middle of a 379EX repaint project right now but definitely not custom like your project. Have you done any HP upgrades yet? Thanks for sharing again!
Thank you, no HP upgrades, just a 550 C15 Cat.
"JUST" a 550.... I'm not into lowered trucks, but you've done a nice job! :notworthy Andrew
Thank you!
King of the hill!!
Where did you get the lower filler panel? I looked back through the thread but don't see it. I think that panel is a must, but most the ones you see are stainless with lights and they cover the air tank.
Fastdirt, http://www.4statetrucks.com/exterior/semi-truck-fiberglass-wide-cowl-panel-peterbilt-379_16475.asp I agree, Peterbilt should have made them like that from the factory.
Yair . . . just a little off topic but a couple of nights ago on Australian TV was a documentary of of Peterbuilt factory somewhere in the US . . . absolutely brilliant. Cheers.
It was probably the plant in Denton Texas. I went there for warranty training when I worked for Peterbilt. Place is absoulutely amazing.
Installed all the lights. Hopefully I'll get the visor from the paint shop on Friday so I can install it. It needs a visor!
Beautiful Pete! I wish there was more builds like yours!
I'm sorry that you aren't building a full size matching trailer. That said, you've done a fantastic job and your truck is one of my favorite customs. I've enjoyed the build. Thanks for taking all of us on the ride. Larry
Thanks for the link. I just ordered them. I know it needs the visor but your slick roof looks awesome. I like the original aluminum low roof tops over the conehead ultra cabs
if yours swaped over i guess they must all be interchangeable. What visor you gonna put on? And your front wheels look more sunk in... were they like that before with the stock axle?
There is a good photo of the visor in post#59 on page 4. It is getting painted on Saturday with the rest of the stuff like the shocks and the lower exhaust support. The front axle is stock width. The darn truck is so low its playing tricks on your eyes
Shot the rest of the truck last night!
I notice something new every time I look at your truck and I like it. Are you going to close the gap between the box bumper and the fender with the stock rubber flap or similar? How much is left to do? I hope you plan on taking us for a ride with some video and a walk around!
Thank you, I'll probably just put the rubber flap back on. I think I have a couple more weeks of putting the truck back together. Planning on taking it to a car show in mid August!!
Been awhile since I checked in on this that is a badass truck. Want to build me one just tri axel with a hook lift? must look out of this world in person
This is really coming together! Do you mind if I share a pic with some friends?
Share away, Bill. That's what the thread is for.
Thanks, I sent you a email also.
First time on the road since the build. Nothing fell off and everything seems to be working well! Car show next weekend! Time to get some shine on!!
Awesome truck!
Polishing and Detailing time.
Two days later, lol
Show Time!!
I honestly was completely shocked when they announced my truck 1st place, Best Of Show. I was like ***!!
Congratulations!! You have put a lot of work in, and the results show it. That is one nice ride.
Thank you!!
beautiful truck man i cant wait until i finish a couple of projects i got. ive been thinking about a 359 tricked out to haul a lowboy in the future to pull some equipment around
Thank you. I love 359's that are done right. The truck the Pickett bros built is absolutely awesome! If you have a dream go after it!
yea man unfortunately i have to finish my turbo 68 mustang and the body work and paint on my father 69 camaro and if i try and sneak in another project my girl firend will probably kill me or worse try and make me sell them
Oh I know exactly what you're talking about, trust me
Wow first place only one week after you finish. Man that's awesome, good job. You put so much work into that truck and the majority of it is all custom. Once again great truck, great job, now let's see the video Lol.
Sorry if questions were already asked. Where can I get air bag kit for front, also where are you located and would you be interested in lowering the front
Thank you!
All good bro, ask all the questions you want. That is why I started this thread so we can all learn. I purchased the air ride kit from 12 gauge Customs. Here is a link to the kit: http://www.12gacustoms.com/part_gallery/air_ride . I am located in California. I do not have the shop or the tools to install an air ride kit on your truck. I was lucky enough with mine that a great friend of mine let me use his shop to build my truck. Now I owe him for the rest of my life, lol
Some pics from the show, taken with an actual camera, not my POS phone, LOL!
Elementary School Walk-a-Thon.
Oct 5th, Rip City Rider's Motorcycle & Car Show, Petaluma Ca.
Slammed can you tell us what you use to polish with and maybe the procedure as well. I do my fair share of polishing and I can never get it to look near as good as yours.
Crazy those ladies are over the hood. Hotties BTW. You could paint a naked lady on a stock 379 hood and nobody would ever see it from the ground, not even close.
Thank you. Depending on the condition of the aluminum there are about 3 or 4 different steps used to get a really good mirror shine. The aluminum on my truck is far from a mirror shine. I just hit it with a medium cut polishing wheel and call it good. Here is a link to the company that makes all the supplies I like to use: https://www.zephyrpro40.com/s2/Scripts/default.asp I'll usually hit the aluminum with this wheel and rouge if the aluminum is a little rough: https://www.zephyrpro40.com/s2/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=443 https://www.zephyrpro40.com/s2/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=473 If the aluminum is somewhat shiny, I'll hit it with this these: https://www.zephyrpro40.com/s2/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=454 https://www.zephyrpro40.com/s2/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=474 The green wheel and rouge is what you see in the pics, but you can take it much further for a mirror finish.
The grass helps make the truck look really low. Sarah and Theresa are wearing high heels, but they are about 5' 5" They are hot! :usa
Mighty fine Slammed, mighty fine! Little birdie is whistling shaved door handles on suicide doors :beatsme Unless I misunderstood his whistle. LOL
Thank you!!
You know what would really eat the truck off?......... Me neither it looks like you thought of everything! Damn fine looking rig man! I like it Pj
Thank you!
Looks good :drinkup
I don't get it.
don't get what?
The truck. I have been in Cali before and the roads weren't all that great. Seems like it would be rubbing everywhere. Do you have to run a lowered trailer too or do normal height trailers still work out?
Oh ok... there is lowered trucks all over the US, most are on air bags front and rear... this truck looks like it only pulls a gooseneck trailer cause I don't see a 5th wheel... it looks good to me and if Slammedtreesemdynine likes it that's all that matters...
Hey Tonka! Good to see you back, Man. Married life must be real good, you were gone for a year and a week. You must be using some text to speech program, I finally figured out that Slammedtreesemdynine = slammed379. How'd you get from NJ to Id? My wife will be disappointed, she was hoping you'd send her a Cake Boss cake. Mitch
Buddy da Cake Boss is over ratted over priced crap!!! Thx Mitch, I moved out here to be closer to family...
Thank you!
yes sir...
Tonka, you always had the best pictures of some nice rigs. I'm thinking you had captured every truck from coast to coast and were taking a break and waiting for a new wave of rigs to hit the road.
Wow I hadn't check back for updates on your build turned out great ...that's a hot rig bro....I got mine working and run but no where near close to complete on the mods..Lol I guess we are never done ...I wanted sum more info on the front suspension you did...that front axle you got is a direct replacement you just transferred over spindles and hubs..my truck is a 99 pete still had bud wheels ...I want to do the axle swap for a couple more inches of drop but not to low everywhere I go I'm pretty tight with clearence as is...also what's the trick for smoothing out the frame rail.llthat next in my list..I just recently got a 70in sleeper with the side windows and replacing the 63 in I want to pull old sleeper off and drill frame for new sleeper mounts smooth and paint before I put new sleeper on..any tips?? This a little update from mine That's what I started with..lol Over 10yr old paint hand buffed Changed the two tone color and replaced old fenders New drop visor How she sit now...but not satisfied..I want more mods..lol Got a newer sleeper cut the wings off and installed short ones New wings installed sleeper is ready for paint now but I have to remove old sleeper first and I want to smooth out and paint frame the color of my fenders before I put new one back on...so I'm doing my research before I proceed..lol
Thanks, your truck looks great. I like the long wheelbase. You want to install a drop axle in your truck? What model front axle is in there now?
I like it! Good job! Looks awesome!
Thank you!
Not a huge fan of lights, but they do look awesome in the dark. Time to light this thing up, just need to figure out how to hide all of them.
Happy Friday!!
Slammed, glad you are keeping it going. Can't wait to see how it turns out. I am also a fan of the clear lights.
I have removed the lights and horns and filled the holes on mine and haven't figured out how and where to go with the cab markers. I'm thinking in the visor. Also am considering the 12 ga. front bag kit. Does yours let you raise and lower the front end by 10 inches at anytime like it claims to. Really interested in your input on the front bag kit.
Good question, here is the deal with the air bag. Yes, the bag does expand a lot, but I can't give you an exact measurement (it probably is 10 inches). I was disappointed in how high the front end of my truck went up, but I made a mistake. When my truck is all aired out, the 12 ga air bag is not bottomed out. What I need to do is install spacers between my air bag upper bracket and the frame rail. This would raise the truck much higher than it does now. My truck sits on the single leaf springs when the air is dumped, not the bag perch like it should. If you get the kit, set it up so your air bags are almost bottomed out (or bottomed out) when the air is dumped. This will allow for the most lift when you air up your front suspension (hopefully giving you the ten inches of lift that 12 ga claims).
Now THAT is one sweet ride!
Thank you Sir!
Sorry on that last pic guys, I had my phone upside down, too many beers!! You get the idea!
Forgot to say nice job on the lights when I read this awhile back. I like the mini bulkhead LED's. I too don't like lights hanging all over the truck but I like the hidden lights or the ones put in just the right palces. Good job!
Thank you Sir! I still have to put on about ten more, but I'm so burned out on mounting and wiring lights! lol
Looking good in this pic and the other one is great. Love for the truck. Found these on the web in my endless long hood searching. Hope you don't mind me posting. They're great pics. I got the 12 Gauge Gen 3 air bag kit for mine and just ordered the 1200W wide axle with a slight dropped center section on the beam. It's a wider axle that also allows for better oil pan clearance and gets the tires out further plus a better turning radius. Looking forward to it. I've tossed my visor and am probably going to get something similar to yours since it reveals the shaved roof line of the flat top which I love.
These are pics from page 1 or 2 of your thread. Why do these axles look different?? One looks like a straight beam across the bottom and the other looks like it has a dropped center section like the car hauler axle.
Hey Fastdirt, you can post all the pics you want buddy. In fact, post some pics of your truck after you get your new axle in. I wanna check it out. The axle photos, the top photo is the factory axle that I took out. It's an Eaton E1200I with a 3.5" drop. The axle in the bottom photo is the one I replaced it with. It's a Meritor FF943 ("Drop Axle") it has a 5" drop built in, 1.5" more than stock. It's probably just the angle is why it looks weird.
19 hrs of detailing, by far the cleanest the truck has been since I got it. Took it to a local car show last weekend.
Sweet ride!
Thank you!
I tried to talk myself out of it, but I couldn't.
18" shorter ?
16"
Nice. keep us informed.
Too hard to get around or some other reason?
Go Longer My Friend!!!!
I was just going along with multiracer's comment :beerchug Adding 31", gonna be 251"
Well ironically very interesting. I just wet from 252" to 220" by moving the susp. up 32". Still inspired by your project, it looks great. Its going to look even more slammed stretched out. I think you did the right thing for this truck. Don't stop LOl.
No Way! lol After I insert the sleeves and get everything locked in, it actually might end up being 252" lol Thank you!
Going to look more awesome low and long!
Going to look nice! Do you preheat the frame before welding? How much does frame material cost?
Now the end result is spectacular! Just what it needed. Good to see somebody that dose it right.
Thank you! No pre-heat before welding, but we did support the frame so it wouldn't sag during welding. The frame sleeves were $560.00.
Thank you! :beerchug
Final number is 256"
Are the frame sleeves temporary to keep it square for welding or are they perminate? If the sleeves are peminate are they really necessary with how you welded the frames diagonally?
Might depend on the area.... "Here", they would be mandatory. Andrew
Yes, the sleeves are permanent and they're very necessary. For my application this is more than enough, but for a working truck this would not have been sufficient. The sleeves would have been much longer and would have tied into the rear suspension for added strength. Additional cross-members would be used as well.
Thanks for the replie. As I'm looking at your bad ass truck it looks to be missing something. Hmmm like a small tombstone sleeper with a custom back window. Ya???
LOL, don't get me wrong I think there are some bad ass sleeper trucks out there, James Davis being the owner of my favorite, but I absolutely love day cabs and always have.
Looks good. How u gono a haul your 2 5/16 gooseneck trailer?
Saw a show-truck KW today that had different taillights. There was some material between the rear 4" StopTurnTail and the chrome bevel ring. They were silvery and somewhat shiny, but not polished chrome shiny. A couple were broke and you could see regular 4" red lights behind them. 1) What are they? 2) Is that legal? (They aren't visible as red until they light up.) 3) Further to the legality question, do the covers affect the amount of light coming out of the lights? Andrew
im pretty sure those are the red LED lights on his pete!! they just look clear/white till power is applied & are legal/DOT approved..
Thank you! I never ended up purchasing a gooseneck racecar trailer. You know those ideas that come into your mind, but slowly disappear? lol That explains the trailer..
Andrew, you probably saw the 4" chrome mirror lenses that you can place over your existing LED lights. I've never seen them in action so I don't know how much they filter light. I also don't know if they're legal.
No these were almost like a dull mirror. Maybe a satin color. No visible LED's. Definitely a piece of material that was sandwiched between the LED light and the Chrome bevel ring. It's amazing what you can find once you know the correct search terms to use! http://www.mecatruckchrome.com/browse.cfm/4,2496.html Andrew
Bam!! There you go Nice work!! :thumbsup
Glad to see the 5th wheel plate on your rig slammed. Now we're trucking lol. Not that I don't love a show truck. I have a race trailer with living quarters I bought a few months ago. It has the 2 5/16" ball. You can simply remove the ball hitch coupler and insert a king pin allowing any big rig to tow it. So you can still live out that dream. My plan is to do some road trips with the 379 and some dirt toys like that rzr behind your truck and head out west for a spell. Like you I love day cabs. If it had a sleeper of any sort I wouldn't give it a second look. I think that comes from always being around lowboys and knowing the day cabs used by grading companies always had the big motors and specs. Plus they look so cool. The long hood stands out way more without a sleeper taking away from the look. My tastes have changed to a small flat top look but I still love day cabs. That is one long drive shaft. Is it sectioned into two shafts. I can't see in your pics. Can you post a pic of the truck sitting at ride height please? Do you have a switch for the rear bags or do you just use a leveling valve and dump it out for pictures and such?. Lots of hard work and dedication in this project.
careful with that kingpin neck my buddy busted the front frame on his big car hauler. Apparently they don't appreciate not being able to swivel left right like it would on a gooseneck ball. you're better of blocking your 5th wheel solid and using a dual kingpin with a 2 5/16" on the top and a kingin on the bottom.
You're exactly right and that thought hit me about 20 minutes after I posted that while driving to the store. My brain works better when I drive or operate. I always second guess myself after I post stuff like that...that's why I stay down here around the showtime section. I was thinking what if I pulled that trailer onto a level road coming off a steep cross road or a parking lot or something similar. I thought man that Peterbilt would definitely be stronger than the cargo trailer and do some damage.. So I searched again. This looks like a solution that has already been around.
Great info that you have shared. I was getting ready to buy an adapter to pull a 48' GN race trailer with my tractor. I think now I will block the 5th wheel and use the ball adapter instead. All I need now is to find the right wiring adapter that I can have in time to leave next Friday.
Jerry, Please get some pictures for us. I'd like to see first hand experience of this set up. 48' is a biggin!! I've been searching this topic over the last few months and I haven't seen much on it. I've seen a few pics of road tractors pulling gooseneck race/cargo trailers and they can look odd. A stand up sleeper tractor looks odd pulling a lower gooseneck trailer. A big rig can make those trailers look small. More importantly just want to know how it all works out. Your tri axle will look good with a 48'. I will be crossing that bridge hopefully before spring but would love to see this setup. Buyers has these. I'm sure they have them for the 7 pin flat and round pole. I'm assuming the brake light pole will activate the electric trailer brakes. Hope slammed doesn't mind me discussing this here.
Yeah, it has two driveshafts. I had the second shaft lengthened so I could keep the carrier bearing where it was. The rear bags are controlled by the factory leveling valve. I tied the front bags into the factory dump valve in the dash. That way when I dump the suspension the whole truck drops. Here's a pic of the truck aired up how it goes down the road. Thank you!
Looks good aired up too. It's still low as heck but that's what lo pro 22.5's get you I guess. I noticed your thread on this 379 project just turned two years old. Thanks for sticking it out and letting us see the progress and results. I appreciate it anyway. Something tells me your going to put a painted fiberglass cover on the fifth wheel plate for show. I hope so. Like the Talladega cowl panels, I'll follow your lead. Keep up the good work. Funny you mentioned the JDT Peterbilt.... It's been my phone screensaver for a half year now.
We have a curt 3 wire to 2 wire box wired into a pig tail for pulling our header trailers behind one of our semi's. I can get the part number and some more details next week. I didn't put it together so i no quite sure what all is there.
If you can find the original factory rear frame light wires you can use that for a combined Brake/turn signal wire for using an RV style 7 way. you need a dedicated Electric brake controller. If you try to run electric trailer brakes through your brake light harness you're not going to make it 10' before you pop the breaker or melt the truck to the ground. I forget who the MFG is but theres a company that makes an electric brake controller that actually uses a sensor in the brake pressure lines so that the trailer brakes are completely proportional to the trucks braking. Its the cats pajamas for running electric trailer brakes. Brake smart maybe?
Oh yeah, James Davis' truck is Bad. Thank you, before I started this project I did weeks of research on the internet trying to get answers on a lot of this stuff and I ended up with nothing. That's one of the main reasons I started this thread. I'm not gonna put a cover on the 5th wheel, but I am gonna cut and buff it ten times and wax it 5 times
Fastdirt I got it rigged up and went last weekend. I will try to get some pictures posted at some point. I didn't get any of my own as my phone has eaten too much dirt and the lens is so bad pictures look like they were taken from inside a fog bank. I had to ditch the gooseneck ball adapter, as the ride height would be too high. The trailer has torsion axles, so it is sensitive to ride height. I ended up welding a kingpin to the inner tube, and sliding it up all the way. Next time, I will shorten it about another 3 inches to get the ride level. All in all it looked good and towed great. My KW had a 7 pin RV style plug added years ago, and it was all still functional, including the trailer brake controller. That was a stroke of luck, as I had forgot it was there. The post on my trailer is braced well, both to the rear as well as side to side, so I do not expect any problems there, and the trailer is heavy enough the ride was good. I got a lot of looks on the way to the desert. I am sure I would have gotten even more if I had the time to shine it up like it used to be.
I don't care. You guys discuss whatever you want. We are all here to learn :beerchug
Ah the ride height. Yes something else I have not considered. Hopefully the tube can be cut and modified to get the right height. I assume you bought the pin to ball adapter... I'll be getting that piece soon too. It's good to know it pulled great. Mine is 16,000 lbs. empty so I'm hoping for the same. Thanks for the update. I'd feel lost not being able to take pictures......and un polished LOL. Just not enough time to work and play. I'd love to see it. Feel free to post it on my 379 thread. Can't believe I responded saying the brake light lead would activate the trailer brakes. I just have never seen an elec. brake controller in anything bigger than a F650 and It skipped my train of thought. Guess I'll add that to the list too. Slammed, Thanks. Trust me when I say I'm waiting for pics of the latest finish product.
I added an electric brake controler to my l9000 it actually was not difficult at all, hat and i bought this adapter from northern tool. http://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200303933_200303933 To pull my first tag trailer that had electric brakes
Ok I know nobody has posted on hear for awhile but first of all I'd like to say thanks for all the pics of the build.! Looks really good.! I got some questions on the air ride front axle. How do you maintain your ride height on the front axle.? Is there a leveling valve.? I have the 12 gauge gen 3 air ride kit just came in today and putting it on this weekend. Or do you run a air gauge and constantly adjust it when your loaded and when your not or how does that all work.? Thanks
You can set it up anyway you want. I was lazy and just installed a momentary switch that I use to fill the bags as much as I want. Then I tied the dump system into the suspension dump valve in the dash so the front and rear suspension dump at the same time. 12 Gauge advertises that the bags give you like 10" of lift. This is probably true if your bag is completely bottomed out when the air is dumped. My bags are not bottomed out so my front end only goes up like 5-6" with the bags. There needs to be, or I need to make spacers that go between the top of the bag and the bottom of the frame rail so you can bottom out the bag and use the full travel of the bag. I guess what I'm saying is I wish my front end went up more. If I was actually using this truck for work I'd be replacing bumpers weekly. I hope this helps, I know there isn't much info or photos out there on the air ride kits. If you have questions feel free to ask :thumbsup
Ok thanks for replying! And ya your very correct on not much information out about the air ride front axle.! I guess I will put it on this weekend hoe the directions say.! And see how it works. I'm just worried because I run alotta short hauls and weight will be constantly getting put on and off of the front axle so it's looking like I will have to constantly adjust it and put a air gauge In and watch it so I know where normal ride height is.! Your welcome to come help this weekend.! Ha!
Kansas, no problem that's right down the street I'll be over in a few Do you have a 3.5" or 5" drop axle in the front? Post some pics here if you want. I'd like to see some before and after pics.
It's a 3.5 I believe. Well we got along ways on it but not sure what we are up against doing now. Pulled the one spring out and all the other blocks and things put the bags in and let it all the way down all looks good other then the steering arm is completely up against the air bag and we can't nice the bag any farther over! So maybe do some fabricating or something. Gave up on it tonight try again In the mornin!
I've got the same kit. I am still not finished with my truck so I haven't driven it yet. The steering arm definitely hits the air bag and the steering arm will have to be trimmed down. Hopefully you have a lot of steel there too. Also I think the shocks might act like limiting straps when trying to air up to get more lift. I'm going to disconnect the shocks today to see if the bags will raise it more. To me the shocks look like they wouldn't have the stroke/travel to support anything more than 5" of setting the height. Seems the shocks need to be longer. When talking to 12 ga it was suggested to run a pressure gauge for the air on the front and one for the rear or a dual needle gauge for both. They suggested to buy the Peterbilt cruise switch that is spring toggled up and down. I've called 12 ga several times for support and they are about like calling the cable company.
YA I have figured out there support is not so great.! Ya there's way to much steel on the end of the arm so that's what we are going to do. Let me know what you decide with the shocks. Because id really like to have the extra lift.! And ya I'm running a pressure guage on the front axle. They said air it up to 60lbs and that's normal operating height.! Should be done by tonight because it's gotta work tommorow.!
Great info guys, thank you. I didn't even think that the shocks could be the limiting problem and my steering is probably hitting the bag too, I'll have to check.
Well i attached some photos hopefully you guys can see them with the bags deflated theres room we cut at least an inch or a lil more then an inch off the steering rod. but when the bags have air in them you can't even put your finger between the steering rod and bag. so I'm going to drive it all day tomorrow and i sure hope the bag doesn't pop because it'll ruin my fenders and alotta stuff. guess ill call 12 gauge tomorrow.:Banghead:Banghead
Cool thanks for posting. My thoughts are that even after it's cut like you've done that the bag is going to expand and make contact when you hit bumps and such. However there are several axle configs under these trucks and I bet they all don't have the same steering arm. Good luck on the call to them. I got so frustrated last time I tried to talk to them. What did you use to cut it. An air cut off wheel? I'm assuming that is some hard steel. Post pics of the stance if you can. What axle do you have? I swapped to a "car hauler axle". I wanted the wider axle to get a better turning radius and to get the wheels out to the fender edge for a better look. I wanted the E1202W. "W" for wide. They sold me a TB101 and installed it and told me it was the same thing. It was wider than my stock axle but I don't know if it the widest one or even a 1202W. It's a 90" track center to center. My bags say Kenworth on them.
We used a torch and then a flapper wheel and cleaned it up. Called 12 guage today and having extremely good luck! they are very helpful and doing all they can to get the problem solved. he said to put a socket on the top of steering arm where the pitman arm linkage comes through and trace around it with a sharp and that is how much you can trim off. But they are building me different brackets that actually mount on the inside of the frame for more clearance. so thats awesome And i will have to see what my axle is and i will also post some pics of the truck up in a bit. but so far 12 guage is working with me! said this is the first axle they have had problems with
This info is great, thank you. Did you mess with the shocks at all to see if they are locking out and limiting the front end from going up?
Hear is a couple pics of the truck not very good ones
Hell yeah pulls a bottom dump I love it! Looks great!! How do you like the fiberglass front fenders and who makes them?
Tristan, I checked my shocks to see if they were bottoming out or over extending and they are not. I kinda wished they were the problem, but they are not. I also learned that after about 60 psi the bags pretty much stop growing. You can pump more air in them after 60 psi, but not much happens. How you liking your air ride?
Please no more tease shots! I want to see the whole the thing not covered up:naughty
That's what she said
what hold the bag to the spring bracket? what air spring is that? very sweet ride. thank you for creating this thread, I am reading it again and again. my 81 359 on the jobsite
I liked this bumper more then the square one View attachment 98995 View attachment 98996
Nice truck! I love 359's! There is a stud on the bottom of the air bag seat that goes through the plate that the bag sits on and is secured with a nyloc nut. Sometimes I miss that bumper, like when I almost scrape the square one pulling into a driveway because it's so much lower to the ground.
Gotta love the chino pipes! You made me pull the kw in the shop on sunday and drop the axle out. Then the phone rings for it wedensday.
Installing air ride?
yup
Awesome, take some before and afters if you can. I'd like to see it.
After blowing one air bag and the other one getting a hole rubbed in it we totally tore it apart and rebuilt it fabricated our own pieces and built it the right way.! 12 Guage promised me the world talked to the owner many times and they were always gonna ship out new parts to fix my problems the next day but it's been months and I got tired of all there lies. Don't buy anything from them btw. But otherwise air ride that we built is working good!!
There is a guy in PA that builds a trick kit for the 359. Horse air ride, Mike Reed. I built all my own brackets and what. The top was cake but the bottom I had a couple days into fabricating and fitting. I wasnt all about setting the bumper on the ground but more on ride quality and keeping the same ride height because of the driveline angles and the liquid in the tanker is heavy on the drives a bit anyway.
That sucks, Tristan. Glad you were able to make it work though.
Damn!! Nice work! Thank you for posting pics!
I tried to say something about the horrible customer service at 12 Gauge Customs earlier in this thread. They are horrible to their customers who've already paid. I've had the owners cell phone number on my issues with the air ride kit and no resolve at all. Can't tell you how many times I've called during business hours and got a voicemail requesting to leave name and number and we will call you back. I never once got a call back. One of their phone answerers was so rude I asked him if he was the owners son. Four State Trucks sells their products and says the exact same thing about them. They are a nightmare to deal with. I have their Gen 3 kit, strapless air cleaner mounts, and a bowtie visor. They sent a KW visor for my Peterbilt and after months of headache trying to return it to them I just folded it up and threw it in the trash. They even tell you their kit will provide 10" travel. What? Their shocks that come with the kit only have 7" of travel. So technically you only have about 4" or 5" of usable travel. On their website they have a yard full of gliders which tells me we are just the little guy to them. This is where I had to cut mine in order to not hit the bags. I sure hope it works out.
Oh ya I agree! They were very rude! The lady that answers the phone is nice until you prove to her that she is lying and she very rapidly becomes a huge bitch saying we have tried to call you back and you never answer which is so not true.! And ya I contacted 4 state they said the same thing. They agreed terrible customer service. I just wish they wouldn't sell there parts. I also wish the owner of twelve Guage would see this
Fastdirt get ahold of Mike Reed/Horse Air Ride. You can find contact info over the web/facebook. He is the real deal, still trucks and builds on the side. Most of the guys in his circle do the same. Sorry to hear about the 12GA shop. Thats why I built my own. Cant stand spending lots and getting one size fits all **** in a bag. There is a few different ways to do this from mundane and mild to extended rear tail cabover springs floating on slipper shackles with timken roller hangers inside and a fancy gizmo to control the air.
I think that's the only way to go with the hubs. Been planning on doing that. Looks great. I appreciate all of the hard work that's gone into your truck.
Between you and FastDirt I want to sell a kidney and go build a truck. This thing is badass!!! Not to be the raincloud here, but how much longer are you gonna be able to drive this truck in California? Rumor has it the communistic CARB yahoos are already buying up or offering incentives on older trucks and engines and knocking holes in the blocks.
Phenomenal work. Very well done, you should be very proud. I'd love to see it on the road one day.
Now you need the little chrome cover from a urinal to cover the red stemco plugs in the hub covers. Also known as $hithouse chrome, all the cool kids run them.
Thank you Sir! I saw it on my buddy's truck and that did it for me. He painted his hubs too, Clean!
Thank you! Yes, you're correct. My truck should have been taken off the road on January 1st, but I registered it with CARB as a "low use vehicle." 1,000 miles a year max. At least it allows me to keep the truck and drive it to shows.
Thank you, Sir!
Yes! lol I heard about the chrome bathroom cap! Can't find one lol
What kind of buffing bars do you use slammed379?
There are lots of good polishing supplies available out there, but I like this stuff. https://zephyrpro40.com/
Gotcha slammed I been trying out menzerna bars and I love the results I been getting
Damn! Those look :thumbsup
Thanks slammed been following your thread since the start and really enjoy the simple clean style and your work inspired me to start tearing up my Pete I won't hijack your thread but I'll be making mine when I get time to upload all the pics
Very nice! Thank you, I believe it's all the little things and detail that really make a truck nice. I like the "less is more" way of thinking too. Can't wait to see more pics of your truck, I love this stuff! :beerchug
I'm right there with you. I'd like to see more pics of that truck myself. I wish there was a forum somewhere that was dedicated to these kinds of builds.
hey rocky started my thread and i will start pictures of my build little by little
New pipes ! What did you do with the flats ?
Do you have anymore pictures of the bottom airbag mount
Any better pictures of the bottom airbag mount and are they useing the air bag stud as the center bolt?
Sharp looking, but where are the air filters and battery box?
I still have the flat tops. I figured I might put them back on someday.
I don't have anymore good pics of the lower bag mount and yes they use the stud (Center bolt) to secure the bottom of the bag assembly.
Wisfilrui379 might not get your message. Re-post it here:
How high is the truck to the top of the cab from ground level? Thinking about buying a 1994 379EXD with a 63" Standup sleeper. And single it out along with dropping it down like yours. Would be used to pull our RV across country in 2 years 8 months. 41ft long 13ft 3" high and 17,000 lbs. Right now using a Custom build 2005 Chevy Kodiak C5500 with a 2000 5.9 24 valve 275 Hp RV diesel pusher engine and a 6 speed Allison Trans. Thinking I will sell the Kodiak and buy the 379 Pete. Being I'm Pete, I think I should have a truck with my name on it. LOL
Yes! I agree, Pete! I don't know what that measurement is, but I will take it and let you know!
Thanks
Slammed would
Oops sorry. Slammed would you mind if I uses this thread and start a new truck. Will post pictures and all part #'s as I proceed through out
I just saw your thread, sorry for the late response. Either way is fine with me, I'm excited to this!
Sorry for the delayed response, I haven't been on here in awhile. From the top of the back of the roof cap to the ground is 8' 1" (This was with the suspension aired out, so aired up probably add 5").
Thanks slammed but as you know I started long and low 379 thread. Oh and by the way my wife blames you for getting me started. I showed her your thread and told her it was time to get mine done
Thanks that sounds like what I would like for one to be at. My 2005 Kodiak C5500 is 8ft and would like to build a 359 or 379 about that height. Will only be used to pull a 41ft RV 13'3" tall and 16,000+ lbs. Lady near me has one of the last 359's built. It belonged to her husband and he passed away 8 or so years ago. Its sat there with a blown engine all these years. Was one sharp ride back when they had it on the road. Talked with her last week and she's trying to get $20,000. for it. Classic she things... Now back right after the cummins bit the dust it would have brought that. But now would need all new air lines, air bags, electric work and inside redone. Plus new motor tires seals and you name it. So I told her I hope she can sell it but I thought she was way to high on it. Pete
most of the last 359's were "numbered" classics. They would have had dash plaques with the number in the series of 359 final trucks
Only the last 359 pete 359's were numbered and of those a lot of guys actually bought the number plaques from their dealers and cloned them. How ever I may can help you find something much better than a 359. A friend of mine has a needle nose pete for sale. I belive it is a 1957. The truck does run and can be driven. If there is any interest you can email me @ [email protected]
You have mail. Pete
I think its awesome and I can't wait to see some pics. She can blame me all she wants I love trucks and this is usually how something like this gets started. A friend of mine was a huge inspiration for me building my truck. It just keeps going down the line and money keeps going out the window! :beerchug
Sounds like a fun project, but I think you could find a nice running truck for much less. There are some great deals out there if you're patient and have cash in hand so you can jump on it when it pops up :thumbsup
what is the part number of the air bags on the front axle?
Hello everyone, I'm excited about some cool new little changes to the truck that are coming soon. Nothing too crazy, but hoping to give the truck a whole new look. A much cleaner, "less is more" kind of look. Going to change the front bumper, Visor, Stacks and rear fenders (Polished Stainless). I ordered the rear fenders with an additional 10" of drop. I'm hoping they are about 2" off the ground with the suspension air dumped. More pics coming soon! Thank you!
Looking forward to seeing the new ideals show up on your truck for sure. Pete
wbase maybe 280 wheelbase ?
380" wb mg
All cleaned up and ready for a show in a couple weeks
Some pics from a show on Labor Day
It's time to clean up this embarrassing engine compartment
How many hours you lookin at to get your shine on?
Wow! How did you get that cover polished up to shine like that?!? Great looking truck too!
I should have kept track. I think I have about 12 hours in the valve covers so far and I'm about half way done. When I do the oil pan I will track my hours just for kicks.
Thank you! It's just the process of polishing aluminum. You need to strip it from paint and then sand all the imperfections from the surface of the aluminum. Once all the imperfections are removed then you sand the surface with 220 grit sandpaper, then you use a buffing wheel and polishing compound to get the shine. Here's a link to a Youtube video where a guy is polishing a fuel tank and takes you through the steps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyOodLNI4BQ
I started on a small cam aftercooler once and gave up after a couple hours and painted it. Man... determination. Primary cutting with a angle grinder and red/purple wheel? Intake piping was always the easiest.
It's one of those things that once you start there's no going back, lol. Yes, after I stripped it of paint I use a grinder to take off all the casting marks and then I used 60 and 80 grit sandpaper for the rough areas, then 120, then 220, then purple wheel with black bar then green bar. I still need to do the other side of the valve cover. I think the oil pan is going to be lots of fun
If your going all out strip the entire engine and paint that ugly thing. Route all the hoses and looms clean, buff all the brass fitings, hose clamps turned and hidden. Find some orange silicone water and intake piping. Make the inside like the out. Its looking awesome! Then go to some judged shows!
Thank you! Yes, the engine is getting painted and everything that is aluminum is getting polished. Complete engine detail
WOW. Look into a product by the name of Shark Hyde. I use it on my wheels and only clean with soap and water for six months, then strip (easily ) polish and re apply the Shark hyde.
Thank you! I found a link! http://www.sharkhide.com/sharkhide_metal_protectant.htm
Expensive, but great stuff. I have tried them all on bare polished aluminum.
OMG. Truly an obsession at this point. You'd better quit puttin up pics like this or im going to get bit by the bug and start tearing my stuff apart.
Accurate statement! LOL :iagree :beerchug Thank you I just love this stuff!
This is some first class sanding and polishing your doing. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!
Very nice!!! keep them coming...:notworthy
Thank you! :beerchug
Im thinking with this current investment its gonna be a trailer queen.
Stainless steel intercooler and radiator tubes from BH Tubes https://www.bhtubes.com/shop/
Stainless steel intercooler and radiator tubes from BH Tubes https://www.bhtubes.com/shop/
That looks top notch! Do you give it a coat of clearcoat or something when you're done to keep it shiny like that?
Thank you! That's just primer for now to keep the rust down
Wow! You sure aren't sparing any expense on that ride!
That's one of the things I really love about polishing aluminum. It's inexpensive, but makes such a big difference in appearance. Just takes a lot of time
Trying to figure out why all my old pics are not visible anymore.
After polishing up a set of wheels for our dump truck, I sure can appreciate all the work going into your rig. Outstanding!
That's too bad all the old pics are dead. The work you have put into the engine bay is astounding.
Please tell me that exhaust manifold is Mexican Chrome painted and not hard chromed!!!
ceramic coated, I believe.
DAYUM!! that's some coin slammed be dropping!!!
Portugee Chrome Painted just kidding it's ceramic coated. it's one of the Full Tilt exhaust manifolds. It's so tough to keep exhaust stuff looking nice because it gets so hot and burns everything off and then rusts. Hopefully this manifold stays nice. I'll probably put a turbo blanket over the hot side of the turbo and then everything else will be polished stainless from the turbo back. That's the plan anyways I change my mind like a Chameleon changes color...
That's some slick ceramic, not seen it in chrome before. Hope you can keep it from cracking and looking nasty. Have seen ceramic coated Harley and other ride exhaust, holds up really well.
The truck sure looks nice! A lot of time and $ invested. Best of luck. ps If this truck will be a show truck will you trailer it to avoid CARB?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aaVUSDa13K7IcjPSU_vPMSmWmYc8eDxl/view?usp=sharing
Air suspension front, any info on whose and how kept stable?
I am good friends with Rod & Kevin Pickett, they used a 4 link setup with a panhard bar on their customs.
Thank you. The truck is registered for low-use with CARB which allows me to drive it 1,000 miles per year. I only drive it about 500 miles per year.
This is the kit I have: http://www.12gacustoms.com/parts/air-ride-gen-ii/ It has worked great for my application.
Why did the old pictures go broken on this thread?
I don't know, but I'm going to upload them again as soon as I figure it out.
You aren't really gonna put oil and fuel to that are you!!
Oh yeah I can't wait to get it running again.
that steering arm an original paccar part?
The guy who posted these pictures hasn't logged into this forum since 8/21/18, but it looks like it.
I don't know if it's a Paccar part or aftermarket. I can see if it has a Paccar part number on it.
Great to see you back. Please give us an Update about the truck.