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Pevious question asked in wrong section, 580B questions 1973

deltl1ks ยท 2012-01-30 15:43

HeavyEquipmentForums Basically, I'm a newb in every-way on this tractor, Assume I know nothing because that is the amount of knowledge I have on this. Pics are helpful and I will take some with my questions asked in the aforementioned thread. 1.Trans HOT light comes on after using the tractor a short period of time. It just flickers on and off but did stay on for some time the other day with about five hours of usage. Today I used the tractor about three hours an it blinks briefly but never stayed on. If you are sitting on the seat of the tractor, I was told, the dipstick in front of the gear control is for the transmission. I checked it and it appears fine. I also checked the gear oil almost directly below the seat, about one foot behind the shuttle transmission fluid and it checked fine. I'll recheck it tomorrow. Previous suggestion was does the tractor have an oil cooler. I will have to check as I have no idea what I'm looking for on that. I see if anyone has mentioned that on a previous thread on here. 2. Leaks, One is the RHS metal line (while sitting on the tractor) LHS if you are facing the tractor. I tried to JB weld it but it still leaks. If I pull this line to have it welded would I have to bleed the hydraulic lines once it's been replaced? 3.Leak at the backhoe, near control arms. I will be posting pics soon. 4. what gear oil do you guys recommend? I was told 80weight gear oil Also told the transmission and hydraulic fuild could be used for both the transmission and the hydraulics. Should the fluids be checked when the tractor is cold, warm, or hot?

Replies11
  1. #1dwloop2012-01-30 16:21

    If you look behind the grille, there are two lines that drop down from above the radiator, they are metal hydraulic tubes. They both should have flex hoses run from the end of them, one to the filter on the right side as you are looking at the front of the tractor. Out of the filter housing another hose should run to the bottom of the radiator, it runs through the bottom of the radiator (cooler) and out the other side back to the return steel line. If it connected that is the cooler. Some have been disconnected due to the cooler leaking in the radiator and the cost of replacing that item. Can you hold your hand on the steel lines after the light blinks?? An IR thermometer would be best, but if you can hold your hand on the lines for anytime I don't think that would be too hot. Others may know when that light is supposed to come on, I don't and I have not seen mine on (I have one of the later 580b models as well). Pic: BTW Pic was taken from an eariler post... This is not mine... The Line that is leaking on the RHS, is it the large line on top or under the loader frame? That would be the pump output. JB Weld will not hold on any hydraulic line... Either braze the line (easiest) or have it welded, I have not had much luck with welded lines.... Will need more information on the other leaks... I use 90wt gear lube in the transmission/differential of mine. The shuttle takes Case TCH, which they no longer make. Now it is Case HyTran, but there are a couple compatible oils. DO NOT use straight hydraulic or 303 oil in the shuttle... It needs to be an oil that has the specs for wet brake/clutch systems, can be found at most tractor supply stores and will have the compatibilities on the pail for the different tractor makes. BTW the 580B does not have wet brakes... Shuttle oil should be checked when warmed up after running, shut the engine off and immediately check the shuttle. After the tractor sits the level will come up. HTH Dave

  2. #2deltl1ks2012-01-30 19:40

    Thanks for your information. I will be printing out this thread. It's the metal line that runs from the lower side of the tractor RHS (while sitting on tractor) to the rad. In the picture above it's the top line coming into the grill area on the left side of the picture. Apparently the line mount points had broken allowing the line to rub against the metal mout tab which wore a hole in it a bit. Anyone know where I can order this part? Okay so for the oils., Shuttle oil is the inlet port in-front of the gear stick right, Right? Gear oil is almost beside the seat on the left side. correct? Confused on the transmision oil. I was told that was the inlet port in-front of the gear selector. I will check on the oil cooler.

  3. #3dwloop2012-01-30 20:13

    That line is the hydraulic pump output. You only have a couple options to replace. I don't know if Case CNH can supply that, many parts for these are not available from them. If not salvage yards are an option, or try to get it made at a hydraulic shop. There are only two places to fill on the 580B driveline, the shuttle with HyTran type oil (front of the gear shift lever) and the transmission/differential with 90wt gear lube(back by the seat post). I strongly suggest you at least get a owners manual, a service manual helps as well. You can get both from dealers on ebay and other sources on the net... HTH, Dave

  4. #4deltl1ks2012-01-30 21:14

    Thanks, hydraulic pump output, I'll be looking for one of those. That's what I thought but previous suggestions and posts sort of confused me. Both of these are fine in levels. I've checked both and will check them again tomorrow before operation. Trans hot light sort of flickers from time to time but so far only stayed on once and that was a five hour day using it. There's a member on here that has the manual. I will be getting some coin together and ordering one from him. Previous owner stated he used the same fluid for the shuttle and hydraulic lines. The gear oil he recommended 90weight as well. Should I drain the transmission/shuttle fluid and place the mixture in as seen on this site? Tractor has no problems pulling once it warms up. Takes only a few minutes to warm up before its ready to be used. I'm not sure what fluids where used but they are clean and he rebuilt the transmission so I think he probably used decent lubes. I asked about the intermittent trans light and he mentioned to change the lines around on the sensor. Possibly a bad sensor. How do I check?

  5. #5deltl1ks2012-01-30 22:57

    Thanks for your help, patience and guidance. [ Okay got some pics sorry about the quality, sun was bright and the reflection was worse than I thought. Anyways on to the leaks at the backhoe. The second cylinder and possible the third is leaking. Any suggestions on how to repair. I think I saw a post by elast about repairing this. I forget the term they used in the thread. These leaks in the back and the front hydraulic output line are the main leaks along with the trans hot light coming on once in a while are my main issues. As mentioned before the fluids each time I've check have been spot on so far for both dipsticks inputs, the shuttle oil and gear oil.

  6. #6alrman2012-01-31 06:04

    Where is the oil coming from deltl1ks? - The pic doesn't really show. What you have your finger on is a relief valve. Is it leaking from under the larger hex, closest to the main body? The spool at the rear kinda looks wet???

  7. #7dwloop2012-01-31 08:34

    Wow, a two stick control on a B... Looks like the second and maybe the third spool is leaking. There are two seals on each end, one is a dirt wiper, under that is a quad seal. The spool will have to come out to replace by removing the centering spring on the bottom. If you are not comfortable doing a local hydraulic shop should be able to fix it up. Also looks like maybe you have some water in the hydraulic oil? Or is that just foaming?? Good news, if you can't find your pump to loader valve tube used, Case still sells them. There are three types based on the serial number, all about $155. HTH, Dave

  8. #8deltl1ks2012-02-01 18:41

    Thanks guys, I believe it's just the seals not the valve itself or do you have to buy a kit? alrman, it's the part closest to the main body, second and third cylinders or what I learned is call the the spool. There may be some water in the hydraulic line as it has leaks everywhere. I'm slowly going to get them address by learning from you guys. First two repairs I'm going. to do. 1. Pull hydraulic pump output line and have it blazed or welded, hoping for blazed. 2. Order parts and attempt repair on the backhoe spools. 3. Keep checking oils and watching the Trans hot light. (I think it's the sensor) Seems the second control on the dash (left side makes it go off if I jiggle it. I thought this was the light switch but not sure. Not even sure what the first switch is as I pull it out to kill the engine. I was thinking it's a choke lever at first but the tractor will not start with it pulled out. Where is the light switch at? Oil cooler, I will recheck that and those lines on the front to see if they are too hot to touch Going back to the Trans hot light. What else can I check when this light comes on. I notice it comes on when I accelerate shortly after I start the tractor. I also noticed when I pressed the second knob on the dash (left side) it goes off. If I keep messing with that knob it comes back on, off etc. Ironically just like it does when I'm ussing the tractor. Flickers on and off.

  9. #9alrman2012-02-01 19:30

    If you disconnect the wire at the switch/senser & use the machine the light should stay off. If it flickers, you have a wiring problem. A thermometer should be used to verify if the oil is indeed hot, either infared or old school sensor - at the switch area.

  10. #10deltl1ks2012-02-03 17:55

    Thanks, I tired to pull that metal line (hydraulic output line) today but no luck, need some better tools I guess and possible a heating torch.

  11. #11deltl1ks2012-02-06 19:44

    Alright, pics to come. Got the hydraulic metal pipe off and had it blazed. Hopefully, that will seal the leak. I bought an extractor set and drilled out the broken bolt on the first mounting tab closest to the front of the tractor with ease. Unfortunately, the extractor broke while trying to remove the second broken bolt on the second secure tab. Wasted a lot of bits trying to drill the extractor out, = no luck so I grinded it down low enough to get below it and then re-drilled the hole and re-thread. The first one is perfect the second one is sloppy but better than what it once was, being not functional as a mount at all. Thinking about stick welding a nut on the tab so I can use a longer bolt for mounting the hydraulic output pipe back on. Cost so far $30.00 for the blazed, not counting the bolts, extractor set and tap set. Also thought I had a cooler but I do beleive this has been bypassed as I have two plugs at the bottom of the rad.