Hello , first of all thanks for taking time to help out with your collective knowledge , have a dump truck original freightliner fld 112 , year 1995 with a cat 3306 , 8ll tranny and 456 rears , we bought the truck about 4 months ago its been doing great however we are loosing a lot of water on a weeks time about 4 to 5 gallons of water ( that's a lot of water ) facts : truck runs 300 to 400 miles a day sometime more , starts in the morning perfectly no white smoke , no engine misses hot or cold , starts right up , there is no water coming out anywhere visible , oil is perfect dark black color in a matter of fact its loosing a little oil due to couple of leaks here and there we will fix as we go but no evidence of any water at all in oil , dipstick has no sign of water condensation neither the oil filler cap, engine temp is all good cycles as it should , radiator was completely rebuilt by a pro right when we bought it ( excellent job ), no evidence of any leaks on water pump the little hole or around pump , hoses , truck air compressor area , changed the radiator cap just to be sure ( 10 psi ) truck cooling system holds pressure fine for example after done for the day 4 or 5 hours after it still has pressure as you take the cap off and its pressurized , however I'm worry about the issue because I don't want this to escalade into a bigger problem and it can't be right I think , please let me know if you can think of something else I'm missing ,thanks again in advance .
I wonder if that's a sign that the pressure is exhaust gas, and not the pressure you get from the water expanding which should go down as it cools. You need something like this I've never tried one and don't recomend it, just the first search result https://www.cpooutlets.com/uview-56...dkkwDqwa-3_x1OfZq2v60yGE7_m3HoHBoCbFkQAvD_BwE
Make sure the weep hole in the water pump is clean I mean really get up in there with something like a plastic straw from a brake cleaner can don't call it open until you can feel the shaft
Check your heater hoses and core. Usually there is a drain out the bottom of the heater housing that will let leakage drain below the truck. I suspect in Florida you don't use it much.
I had a water leak on my haul truck, not near that volume but I couldn't find it.... Sitting in the tire shop Friday on their nice clean floor I saw it drip....heater hose had a pinhole in it. Conduit over the hose was holding a good pint of it. Based on past experience, I'm guessing compression pressure is getting into cooling system which is in turn pushing water out. Does it have an overflow bottle on it? If not rig one up and see what you get....if it's combustion pressure you're lookin at a head gasket or cracked head... Simple test is to leave the radiator cap loose, on past the first notch but not tight sealing it. See what it does then. No change it's less likely to be from a head gasket or cracked head. If it slows dramatically or stops....then it's time to consider pulling a head. Have you pressured it up to see if it leaks? Sometimes you gotta pump them into the danger zone to find your leak. Food for thought
ok understand , I do have a question if it's compression my understanding is that it would built pressure pass the 10 psi and start leaking from the cap ? I will look into the heater core see where that takes me , question to Jonas the water pump hole ill check on that tomorrow however if is loosing water thru that hole I would be able to see it unless its at higher rpms that it occurs is this possible ill report back tomorrow ,
Check air dryer exhaust for coolant.
If you're suspicious, tape some toilet paper to the suspicious spot, an ounce of coolant will show up clearly. You are running antifreeze, right? had to ask. Yes it will build pressure and release if it's compression leak, but it might do it only under load. A gallon over 400 miles isn't much to find. The overflow tube into a bottle of water will tell you if it's leaking, I don't see why you couldn't run a tube to the cab if the antifreeze is a couple inches down from the cap?
not running antifreeze at this moment want to find the leak first , the bottle is a good idea I will do that tomorrow seems to me it must be leaking under load and at its hottest point possibly higher rpms . temperature does not go over 180 190 . it fluctuates perfectly , the air dryer is good and clean I have watched it cycle and not a lot comes out , question where is the heater core ? I know where the ac core is but not the heater core I guess I'll follow the hoses . thanks guys
The heater core might drain into the condensation drain for the AC, so if you're running AC then coolant would be diluted in there, or out of sight if you weren't running AC. You'd smell the glycol especially turning defrost on in the morning, but the water won't help you like that. Find the condensate drain hose under the cab and tape some TP over it, or duct tape a small bottle there?
Cat service manual recommends "pop bottle test" Any time combustion gas is suspected of entering cooling system . So efficient, so simple. Its in every Cat engine service manual under troubleshooting and diagnosis. Using water, you doing more harm than good. Water evaporates at a lower temp than coolant water mix. Therefore, you have no cavitation protection. The tops of your liners are being eroded at an accelerated rate along with the coolant passages of the cylinder head. As the water escapes under pressure with high temp, you get steam. If its small enough, just vapor. You'll only find it as a cold water leak. Good luck however you choose to proceed
My ford 351 had the same symptoms, disappearing coolant, hold pressure over night. Head gasket. Finally became bad enough that I was able to find it. (Blowing white smoke on start up).
Look and see if you can take the water pump back cover off that's above the air compressor? If you can get the cover off get a rad. pressure checker and pump the rad. up to 15 #and look for water leaking around water pump gear. I found one 3306 engine using 4 or 5 gals. a day but the oil stayed clean. Good luck Bob
Righ the water will just evaporate, glycol would mess up the oil and show up on an oil test.
You might just leave the rad pressurizing tool on it while it's running and check to see if the gauge climbs. Truck Shop
Yep, if it goes up fast right after a cold start, something is wrong.
That's right! Cap off any air controlled heater valves and air compressor coolant hoses before you pull the head.
hello guys sorry it took me a couple of days reporting back , ok checked on heater core I don't think this is the problem , there is a lot of condensation (cold ) water coming out of the ac drain pipe so I plugged the hoses to the heater to eliminate the possibility sense its only 3 to 4 gallons in a whole day depending of use , ill see tonight if it's still loosing water . however yesterday when I was done for the day truck temp was normal when I got home and I did see some water coming out from the radiator cap overflow small hose specially when I rev up the engine , to my understanding that might not be good news , at this point I'm inclined to think the head has a hairline crack in the exhaust side , I guess a leak down test should be performed ? don't know how much time I've got its running 400 miles a day , I'm keeping an eye on the temp , maybe replacing a 10 psi to a a 12 psi radiator cap might help losing water , any thoughts ? ......this might make the problem worst ? keep in mind I have no white smoke at all engine running great at all times , oil is as black as possible ............question : any connection in compressed air to cooling system at the compressor ? ......... (rzucker )(truck stop )pressurizing the rad , what is this going to reveal ? the truck is not overheating at all , in the morning takes a while to come up to temp , and it stays nice thru the day . thanks for all your comments and knowledge .
Yes, your compressor head is cooled by same coolant as your engine. I think what RZ was getting to by leaving the cooling system pressurised was so you could see your reaction when you start it up cold. If you have a needle that rises quickly ahead of temp increase or if you have a spiking needle, that would indicate a compression or combustion loss into the cooling system. Then you would have to narrow it down from there. We can help you with that. Have you tried the exhaust gas test Delmer suggested, or the pop bottle test i recommended? Very cheap primary tests to identify a problem.
May I ask exactly how do I perform the pop bottle test ?
Honestly, its real simple to do, difficult to explain. Theres description and images in cat engine service manual. I dont have access at moment, look fgor thread,"service manuals" on this site.
Run the over flow tube into a soda(actually ANY larger bottle) with the solution for the combustion tester in it and leave the radiator cap ON. The solution is cheap, the tester expensive.
This engine has nozzle pre-chambers, they are sealed into the head and can leak compression into the cooling system as well develop head cracks at that threaded connection.
This^ and continuing bubbles after the engine is at normal temperature will indicate a compression leak.
Running with straight water wont change the oil color. It evaporates and leaves the engine through the breather tube. Glycol on the other hand will leave the "baby poo" deposits in the rocker cover etc.
No it doesn't . Bob
Pull the breather tube cap on valve cover ,look for water oil mix there. Bob
Napa sells a block/head check kit for around $35.00 bucks. The fluid is cobalt blue if it turns green you have compression gases in your cooling system. That kit has been around since the late 70's. It works fairly well. Truck Shop
My apologies bluox, truck and tractor engines heads ARE different. 3306 truck or on highway did not have precups, my OOOPS!
Don't know 3306, but earlier 3304 had precumbustion chambers, later ones did not.
Have you checked the water pump weep hole if its plugged and the seals are out it will put the water into the engine oil
The engines were designated PC for pre-cup and DI for direct injection. It wasn't a highway or off road thing. The older engines were indirect injection and used the button nozzles while the newer technology used the direct injection pencil nozzles.
I got away from actual hands on work on these as the two separate head styles were coming into service together. The DI engines were beginning in on highway at the time and the PC were still in the off road stuff. Had forgotten about the DI engines until prompted by bluox. Hell the N14 Cummins was in its infancy and the DDEC 60 series were only just gaining acceptance when I stepped out of full time garage work.
Hello , was able to work on few things on my truck this weekend , did the bottle test ( not the chemical ) and water is going out the radiator cap out the overflow small hose , installed a milk gallon bottle and taped the hose inside and yes its coming out thru there into the bottle when pressurized and rev up , I can get the chemical reactor at Napa store tomorrow and repeat the test , I did see a little bit of white smoke on Saturday morning at start up also ran engine without the radiator cap and is blowing quite a bit of bubbles inside reservoir tank , so I think I have a cracked head or gasket . how much time you all think I have before it comes critical ? truck is working daily , also taking to a friend of mine he suggested going to a 3406 a mechanical one he said it has about 430 hp , what do you all think about this option ? have a friend that has a c12 year 2000 its a nice but it is an electronic engine and I hear is expensive to go that route . new wiring and electronic pedal + gauges , had a quote of 1700 just for electrical work on truck from an electrician , is the c12 a good option ? would it be better going with a 3406 mechanical ? in my honest opinion I know my 3306 is a small engine but all honestly it has enough power to go around , I have an 8LL and 456 rears so it does great , might be better to find me a good head and have it installed . what do you think ? please let me know your thoughts and opinions . thanks in advance .
Once you pull the head off you need to get the liner protrusions measured, and then more likely than not you'll find one or more below spec. That means removing the cylinder packs and getting the block counterbored. If I were you, I would be budgeting for an in-frame overhaul (cylinder packs, crank bearings, head rebuild and injectors). The good news is that aftermarket parts are readily available and probably won't be as expensive as you think. Are you seriously thinking of a 3406? You know that it's a physically much bigger, heavier engine? It would need major modification to the truck, engine mounts, cooling system etc. The 3306 is a great engine. Fix yours properly, look after it and it will look after you.
Like Cmark say's repair what you have. Truck Shop
Thanks guys . I plan to fix immediately however what time frame do I have before becoming critical ?
There is no set guideline. Could be 2 hours , 2 days , 2 weeks, months years. Who knows. We dont know exactly what has failed. Liner, head gasket, head, torque plate. Any and all materials are slightly different and subject to different heat cycles, wear, corrosion etc. BTW have you removed your air compressor from the equation? It would certainly suck if you did a major in frame and had the same problem.
For the compressor, it will NOT set off the CO monitor liquid as a first step, when it cycles off or unloads the bubbles would then stop as the compression phase is not working just bypassing air in and out the intake. Can also force unload the compressor putting 110lbs shop air to the sensing line port on the unloader/regulator.
You are playing in fire with a gas can in your hand. To much coolant in the oil and you spin a bearing. Run it hot and crack the head. Yes you watch the temp gauge but the sending units read in coolant. When it gets low unexpectedly or compression makes an air pocket it can crack a head. I have ran an engine draining coolant off the bottom of the pan in the morning and checked the oil about every two hours in order to finish a job. It is your quarter to flip but at the risk of a crank, head etc.
One other possibility would be to observe the bubbles in the radiator while cracking injector lines to cut out cylinders one at a time. It may not eliminate the bubbles but can reduce them enough to pinpoint the cylinder causing the problem.
I think its a great idea I'll work on it tomorrow will try and see if the bubbles are present when compressor goes on bypass mode , also I guess I can disconnect the compressor out line to the tanks to let air out to the exterior this way there is no pressure at all in the system and all compressed air is exiting the compressor , I will also do the co monitor liquid , it will be late but will post findings late tomorrow night . this truck did 500 miles today not a hiccup , i'ts puzzling to me , by the way spoke to my mechanic and he agrees with you all with in case of having to go with a different engine he is firmly pro staying with 3306 nothing else so we will concentrate on the task at hand , it makes sense it can well be the compressor .thank you
ok , sorry for the time it took me to write again , after some digging around I definitely have some water coming in to a piston its water locking at start up a little bit ,still no sign of water in oil but like one of you guys said it's evaporating during the day not enough to discolor the oil . I think its got to be from compression to exhaust looks to me more of a cracked head than anything , my mechanic does not want to touch it till after the year that not convenient to me , truck is working every day 300 -400 miles a day , I'm inclined into doing it my self would have to find torque specs and where to buy the parts , have looked at ebay they sell new heads for around $ 600 and new bolts and gaskets . all injectors are about 1 year old , what do you all think , worth doing or just waiting it out its a better option . I have a barn shop compressor and a lot of tools done gas engines total rebuilt chevys 350 6 in line fords , worked on a cummings 5.9 , a few engines but never worked in the larger diesels engines . might me more than I can chew . any thoughts ?
The water in the compression chamber isn't doing anything any good. Don't wait for it to self destruct, it will only be more expensive. The big diesel just means everything is bigger and heavier, bigger tools, and probably a hoist to pull the head.
If it's doing 3-400 miles/day of paying work just get it in to a professional repair shop. It'll pay the repair off in a couple of months.
Agree with all on getting it done now, awaiting the inevitable melt down does not do the work or the engine any good where water in a cylinder leads to melt down a piston or a bent rod if has not already done or started the latter. A bent rod leads to catastrophic failure and could cost the entire engine.
Yes waiting for a rod to poke out the side of the block is for sure not going to make your day! If mechanic does not want to do the job then find another mechanic. I can't believe there isn't more than one guy in Florida who can work on that engine. It's not like you have a turbo charger Maserati there! Bet there are several retired Cat mechanics in Florida, just need to find one who is in the mood to get dirty again!
Friday as I was finishing my last trip air brake compressor broke a rod made a hole on the side of the compressor ( nice ) I'm thinking now that it may well have been the real problem to begin with , its a tu flo 750 # 1091318 I think it converts into # 109287x I'll let you know how this all comes out .having problems finding it quick . I think I'm ordering it tomorrow at napa $ 400 .00 not bad the bad is it will take about a week , also another problem is my core has a hole on the side and the core is over 500 , that might get crazy , in the worst case can buy one in the junk yard and return that one , have a question for you all can a 12v. heavy duty constant duty compressor be installed on the truck ? is it allowed ? I don't see why not except for that the air being used on my present compressor is extracting air from the engine like a vacuum , just a question not sure if it's done or not .
Federal Code is under 49CFR571.121 S51.1 Requires compressor 'Engine driven' Only reason the air intake is tied to the engine is for filtered air from the intake. Many just have a round filter under a spring clipped cap.
Got it , I thought I had discovered the Americas . thanks man
The Napa is a Midland brand nothing wrong with that a genuine Bendix will probably cost another $200. The hole in the side probably won't matter either as a core. And no you can't use a 12V compressor. The turbo is pressurizing the intake air for the compressor. Truck Shop
If you're in a hurry, I've used many a junkyard compressor, if there's a good yard near you. Instead of buying one for core, buy one and slap it on. A week at this time of year can be until jan 15.
very true that's why I'm waiting today to order it have a place in Tampa Florida that may have a good used unit . have bought stuff from them before .
I had a brain cell fire that may mean nothing but still, is your engine set up with a coolant after cooler in the intake? I know most of the later year engines went to air/air.
Not sure Dmiller don't know what that means . My motor is a cat 3306 1995 . mechanical
Probably Air to Air aftercooling that late a model, should not have any consequence. My old brain just running amok again.
Do you have a S/N for this engine? I think the point DMiller was getting at is if engine has a water cooled after cooler it could be the cause of the coolant loss. Not sure if coolant was getting into the air compressor if it would cause a broken rod. I can see where the coolant cold possibly not go through the outlet valve fast enough to cause a partial hydro-static lock condition. If the coolant was getting into the compressor I would think you would be seeing signs of it in the air tanks.
That is a point. That style head has a integral intake, I wonder if might be cracked in that gallery or a intake port? Compressed air from the turbo could keep it pressurized enough to back pressure coolant under load.
I'm going to throw out a guess that the compressor rod failed from coolant contaminating lube oil. If the op doesn't stop and cure this issue an engine rod is next. He's already stated there is a slight hydro lock when starting the engine. Myself... this would have been parked and repaired ASAP. I've seen Detroits parked for lunch blow a rod out the side of the block due to hydro lock when they were restarted. Coolant leaks are not predictable.
I am in full agreement there. Needs to get it down and inspected or will be replacing a crank or the entire engine.
Yeah, and now at this point I would be dropping the pan and checking rods and mains too.
Remember the thread on the crawler with the 3306-you can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink. Truck Shop
Cannot fix that we cannot get hands on. Sometimes can't push the rope hard enough either!
Had to go back and read some of the original post. Maybe I'm paranoid but if I had a relatively small engine that was going through 3 to 4 gallons of oil a week I would not keep using it unless I had a very good idea of where the coolant was going. Seems that there are only about four places for it to go. #1 some external leak, weep hole on pump, bad hose someplace, leaking gasket, leaky radiator or overflow from being over filled. All those might be livable for a time. #2 internal leak into combustion chamber, cracked head, head gasket, air to water after cooler leaks, crack in liner, pre-chamber or upper liner to block counter bore problem. Anyone of these could cause major failure at anytime from hydro-static locking of engine. #3 internal leaking into oil system. Failed oil cooler core, lower liner seals, crack in block near bottom of liner bores. These will eventually cause bearing failures. #4 Coolant leaking internally into air side of air compressor. This I would have to put as the least likely one especially as this engine has a compressor with only water cooled head as can be seen in picture up a few messages. I would be surprised if some can not come up with a few more ideas on where the water is going and the damage that might be coming, but still needs to be fixed before there is nothing to fix! One thing I just had to check, this truck is in Florida, is it even running coolant or just straight water? I think straight water could have some bearing on the problem. I hesitate to say some of what I might be thinking on that subject!
Straight water gets into other issues, cavitation, electrolysis, general corrosion eating away at what is not seen.
post #9, no antifreeze, straight water...
Not good.
I guess one could go either way on the water point. Agree 1,000% on the damage it will do to the engine. This was probably be the real starting place for this problem. That said the running of straight water may in a round about way be the reason parts have not decided to leave home and fall out on the highway while pulling a load. What ever the current problem is this engine is a ticking time bomb and if some one does not figure out which wire to cut, is it the red or green wire?, to stop it things could go from bad to worse the next time it is run. Makes me a little sad to think of what may happen, a 3306 or any of the 2-stroke Detroits up at the top of my favorite engines. Nice and simple to work on and understand.
Perhaps he's kin to the feller in Mn......
There's nothing wrong with running water for testing purposes (or flushing). But testing isn't 400 miles a day for a month. I hope it's figured out sooner rather than later.
Even worse is the time we had an early 988 87A loader that was overheating and I found the transmission cooler restricted on the coolant side. After working on the problem found out machine had been using a bit of water and the operator would top it off if he saw it getting hot. To save running back to the shop of water he used a can to scoop some water out of one of the larger mud puddles along the haul road!
OH MY!! Mud, Lime, whatever goop and biological mess!!
Isn't that why they make rebuildable radiators? Pond water's fine as long as you have a radiator designed for it right?
What got me looking at the transmission cooler was I noticed that the water line from the water pump to the cooler the 3.5 inch radiator hose would swell up when engine was revved up. I hooked a pressure gauge to the inlet side of cooler and as I recall I was showing something like 30+ psi at high idle. Ran that by dealer and they tried to say was impossible and must have a bad regulator valve. Thing is I could get the same pressure with radiator cap off! Another time I wish I had had a digital camera as when I removed the inlet housing from the cooler more than half of the tubes were plugged shut.
I did that once out trucking. Noticed a smell of coolant, pouring out the water pump seal but at a "manageable" rate. It was a rainy day so streams were flowing, drove back to the shop stopping at every clear water spot to fill up with a jug. But what I did not do was put mud in there, nor leave it run like that any longer than it took to get back home.
Had a front engine in a 333FT Wabco that was running hot, Their guy had pulled the thermostats, changed the water pump, and played with some other stuff. He told me they had just replaced the radiator core before it all started funning hot.... Hmm. Turned out to have a T-shirt stuck in the transmission heat exchanger. Those machines pulled all the coolant from the rad through the trans cooler before pumping it into the block. When the radiator was off their guy... You get the picture.
Actually I gave up on this guy pretty quick. He had to use the truck no matter what and he couldn't afford to have a real mechanic look at it? In truth he was looking for someone to tell him it would be OK to run. Either he didn't have the money to be in business in the first place or he fit one of those favorite saying we've been reading in another thread. A thousand years ago he would have been lunch for a lion.
. Truck Shop
I'm thinking he got taken on this truck as he only had it for a few months when he started this thread. Have a feeling guy he bought it from knew it was in bad shape and unloaded it on the first guy he could get to spring for the price.
The last word was last Saturday... Could be in the shop by now, or has a rod hanging out the side.
Would hate to think the latter has happened. Or he is tired of the banter.
I'd guess we've blown it now, we'll never know the end of the story.
I don't think anything is wrong with the posting here. He was helped by everyone and some people just have thin skin no matter what is said. Hopefully he replies. Truck Shop
This one is almost as good as the D6C thread!
Maybe it is something about 3306 engines?
I've been up in the mountains for over a week with family up state new York .truck is at home waiting on compressor . At the end have one reserved to get used from the Miami area as soon as I get back it's a hard compressor to find Napa doesn't have it and a lot of other folks don't have it on line . It's a 1091318 or 109287x. Comp.. thanks and yes I will write till the end of the pressure leak issue thanks for your help.
Try Bepco in NC. May have to go through a distributor.
Thanks I'll try that tomorrow.
Do you have the Cat part number? There are aftermarket ones out there but I can't cross your numbers.
I understand all those. Numbers are active but most of all the 109287x is the most current . Waiting to call bepco but I think is more of a tractor parts store . I'll try anyway . Thanks
If I'm reading that Cat No. correctly it looks to be a 109 1318. That changes to a 110 5766 and then to a 164 7562. And finally a reman number of OR3405. Cat really likes that last number a lot as the price I see for it is $774.10 with a $1,437.00 core charge! I can't say if your core would be accepted or not.
got the compressor yesterday doing the install tomorrow will write back to let you know what has happened .
ok compressor on bought a reman compressor and it sounds great but there is an internal engine leak can be a cracked head or gasket or something else it is at the shop they are going to disassemble the engine on Monday , I'll write back and let you all know what had happened . thanks
FINALLY! SHEESH!
Pretty round about way to get where he was going from the start.
1/27 /2018 Well truck still at the shop its going to be an inframe repair , head was not cracked , it was good news to hear .the reason for the water leak was the ( head gasket ) gave way , but mechanic feels its time to rebuilt , engine was not in a top condition it was weak and liners needed to be changed anyways so he is at it , got parts waiting for head to come back from shop and expected to be back in business next week . thank you all for your time and sharing your experience with us all , its a tremendous amount of collected knowledge with you all sharing your thoughts , don't know the cost at this time will post when finished to give others an idea of what it took to fix an 3306 cat mechanical , if one thing is to be learned from my experience is that it's well worth the money to pay a certify mechanic for an inspection of the truck no matter who you buy it from . Morcam.
Just a thought and not a criticism. Head gaskets blow out for a reason. You might ask that the repair shop tap out the head bolt holes all the way to the bottom and use new head bolts. Also make sure they check the flatness on the block with a machined straight edge.
And don't forget to double check liner protrusion as well as condition of counter bore if it is that type of block if a spacer plate engine the deck surface and spacer plate condition. Like John said "Head Gaskets fail for a reason!" If you don't determine what the reason was you are going to have a repeat failure soon. Good luck and keep us in the loop!
ok understood I will take that up with the mechanic tomorrow , he has also stated that he is going to have a tech come out to the shop to resurface the block not sure completely how that procedure works , but it's done with the engine in truck , also mentioned as I understood he had to take a measurement to have shims ordered to have a perfect seal again not sure I think sense he is changing the liners something has to be shimmed ? I'll talk to him about new set of bolts not sure if that is included in the inframe kit , I don't think they change the crankshaft they just put new bearings . thanks
2/12 18 got my truck back last Thursday it all came out great , full inframe repair, engine is running very smooth ran it most of Thursday and Friday aprox 500 miles with no problems mechanic asked me to bring it back on Saturday and readjust all valves is all good . repair cost me $ 6300.00 including the fan clutch full rebuilt that was expensive ,repair kit alone was 500 for the fan clutch , so after all set and done bill was $6300.00 , looking back and learning from the experience I honestly think I should have stopped the truck and have the mechanic take a look and diagnose the problem , ran it loosing water for too long I could have messed the engine up really bad , true I had compressor issues that was adding uncertainty to the event but still an unnecessary risk , we are adding next week some special gages that will sound an alarm and stop the truck if temp or oil pressure issues are detected . again thanks for all your time and devotion .
Thanks for being us up to date and good luck with the rebuild. Also remember to keep a close eye on clamps, brackets, and mounts.