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Plumbing an electric/hydraulic third valve 580K

t4250j ยท 2008-08-30 22:18

I need to install a third valve on my '93 Case 590 Turbo, similar to a late 580K, I believe. The loader is used as a utility/farm machine, the third valve is for a 4 in 1 bucket, although it should work for a grapple, angle snow blade, etc. The machine has an open center system, so I found an electric over hydraulic valve, it is a 19.8 GPM, 4500 PSI, 3-Position, Double Solenoid, Tandem Center Spool, 12 Volt DC Solenoids. My question is, for the inlet side of the valve, how can I plumb into the power beyond? From the loader valve, the power beyond port is connected to the backhoe valve. How do I connect the valve into that curcuit? For the outlet side of the valve, I was thinking, connecting into the hydraulic return line before the filter should work. For the control, I was thinking a SPDT mom-off-mom rocker switch. Any control switch advice? I know the other option is a diverter valve on the bucket control circuit, how much easier is it, I would lose the ability to tilt and open the bucket at the same time. What is the most common solution to installing a third valve circuit for a grapple, 4 in 1, small hyd motor, etc.? TIA, Tom

Replies10
  1. #1melben2008-08-31 22:51

    ??? is this a splitter to make a single remote ag tractor have an extra set by diverting the flow to a secund set of quick couplers electrically??? melben

  2. #2t4250j2008-09-01 01:19

    No, I want to install a electric / hydraulic third valve, it would work more or less at the same time the other valves are working. A diverter would switch the existing valve from the bucket to the 4 in 1 rams. You would flip the switch, then use the bucket control valve to operate the 4 in 1 with a diverter. Maybe that would work well enough. If plumbing it isn't too difficult, I would like the third valve rather than the diverter.

  3. #3dumptrucker2008-09-01 07:18

    YOu should be able to come off of your main spool valve's return line and plumb it into your feed side of your new bank, then out of your new bank and back into the return. I know it sounds easy, the hard part is getting at the valve and hoses, mounting it, etc. good luck

  4. #4melben2008-09-01 08:20

    Due to the way that it would have to be hooked up the valve used in the return circuit would have to be capable of 50 GPM flow as it would have to flow full system capacity. Any less than that will result in severe heating of the hyd oil at least and total destruction of the pump at worst. Look for the proper hardware to expand the loader control valve already in use, the third section is available new, possibly as a kit with all plumbing linkage and a new control handle, it won't be a cobble job. We have installed these in the past and it gives you the multi function capability you desire. Otherwise there is a splitter available that electrically changes from one set of quickcouplers to another to expand the hydraulics of a single outlet ag tractor to two, that would be mounted up on the front loader arms in the supply circuit to the dump cylinders and would work in the manner that you desire except with the limitations that you are already aware of. There is much engineering and many factors to consider before adding valves in a high flow application. Mel

  5. #5t4250j2008-09-01 11:21

    Thanks for the all the information, I will be using a diverter valve. I know there is some expense and time involved in putting the factory third valve on the tractor, maybe later I will have the time. I can find a bigger valve, but as you say, it would be cobbled together. How big of a diverter valve kit will I need? Does Fasse have a kit with the correct valve?

  6. #6melben2008-09-01 18:46

    how is this diverter going to be controlled? where is it going to be inserted into the circuit. One side would have to be straight through as normal flow would be, diverted flow would have to be to another control valve to work your aux circuit you want to run. sounds like a lot of extra plumbing and unless you get an electric operated diverter you have to have it accessable to the operator area, I am still not clear on your total hookup, just trying to point out the danger of mismatched components, you started out with a 19.8 diverter and were going to insert it into a 50 gal return circuit, that terrified me!!!!!!! I would suggest you think about a properly sized solenoid operated double diverter out on the front crossbrace and simply divert loader tilt circuit flow to your other function, all you need then is a 12V supply and a switch and a wire going front to power the solenoid. That setup would be easy and easly obtainable and much cheaper and with a solenoid valve electrically operated it would kinda offset the inability to use both circuits at once as you could just let a button switch mounted on the loader handle up to restore normal function and push it to divert flow to the bucket Mel

  7. #7t4250j2008-09-01 21:19

    I didn't explain that too well, I was thinking about something like a Fasse or WR Long diverter valve kit. It is a solenoid controlled valve as you describe. I was assuming it would be installed before the Tee for the loader bucket valves. There are 7/8-14 flare end steel lines to the Tee fittings.

  8. #8melben2008-09-01 21:32

    useing a diverter off the workports is viable as long as you have one for each workport. Your original post led me to believe you were trying to get into the open circuit as you used terms like power beyond and talked of getting into the return before the filter, thats a Mega flow area as all return oil comes back there as well as cylinder return oil, thats why it takes 1 1/2" wrenches to take that stuff apart. Sorry about the misunderstanding. I am sure the ag unit I refered to in an earlier post would work fine for that application and could easily be mounted out front if it could be protected. Mel

  9. #9t4250j2008-09-02 00:28

    Yes, the first plan was to put an electric over hydraulic valve in the open circuit. but now, I am thinking it would be better to stick with the diverters for the workports. I have limited time to get the thing going, and I don't want to spend a large amount on the project. Thanks for the information Tom

  10. #10t4250j2008-09-02 07:50

    Maybe this would work for a diverter valve setup: http://www.shoupparts.com/catalog/view.cfm?bmkName=700-1002&ID=7520&Type=Product&FolderID=96524