Well I am looking at buying this D6B dozer. Made an offer on it today and am just waiting to hear back from them. SN 44A1898 Which I know to be made in 1960. The ROPS and the sweeps are setting over in the weeds under a tree but they are there. Story is it ran 3-4 years ago and was parked where it is. When they tried to start it, it would not start. He said he had a couple of guys look at it and they both said it was getting fuel to the pump but pump was not pumping fuel. other than that no one seems to have taken the time to find out why. Gotta be a pump issue in my mind. Or fuel filter but that would be to simple lol. Always the first place to start anyhow. Any thoughts on this machine? Does anyone have a maint manual that would have the fuel pump section? thanks The Marlboro man sitting on the machine is my business partner Joe.
Rack stuck? Pull the flat side cover of the injector pump and see if it moves when you pull the throttle back from the shutoff position. Its spring loaded so may not move. Quite common on the older machines. 60 is on the new side for me.
I was wondering that but have never been in one of these cat style pumps. Just looking at it it looks to me to have a fuel metering system via helical cut on a plunger much like a Detroit injector. Only plungers are in pump body instead of unitized injectors. What you describe does not sound to hard to look at. I sure hope I can get this machine!
If it like the ones from the 50s nothing will fall out. Take care and go easy on them as not to scratck things up.
The D6B has the "compact" fuel injection pump. There is no side panel access like earlier units. Rack/plungers may well be stuck but the pump will need to be dismantled to get access. Requires some special tooling to do the work.
Ah yes Cat and their *$&#^% %($#*#&## special tools. Thats the biggest bitch I have about anything caterpillar. That's why I refuse to have a Cat engine in a truck.
Woohoo looks like we are gona get this machine. Now the search for a parts and maint manual begin. Does anyone have a manual that fits a 44a1898 sn range?
I need to know how to check the rack in fuel pump and see if its stuck. If so I need to figure out why and how to unstick it. It is the d333 engine so I think a 955h with a d330 has the same pump minus two plungers right? If so I think I can look at my 955h manual to get a half arsed idea of what I need to do. Or so I think?
Well studying the manual last night for my 955h. Looks to me to be the same style pump. If this is true it looks like I can remove the governor housing from the pump and see if the rack moves. If I don't touch any adjusting screws or items that set rack travel settings then it should all go back together without any special tooling. I should find out something by this weekend and will take pics.
Just paid for the dozer and on our way to see if we can get it to run and on the trailer
Hey SWEET success! Only took about an hour and a half to get it running. The rack was indeed stuck and we had to remove the governor housing to work the rack back and forth to get it unstuck. A little carb cleaner and penetrating oil and its as free as can be. Did not have to take another machine and push dozer onto trailer. WE DROVE IT ON LOL! I will get some pictues and a video of the first start up tonight.
Hey, that's good to hear. We will await some pictures!!
I have a video that I shot with my cell phone. Trying to figure out how to convert it from mp4 to mpeg so I can edit it on the computer. It only took 5 hours to figure out how to get it off my phone onto the computer. Funny I can get a D6 with stuck fuel rack running in a hour and a half but takes me 5 hrs to get a video off my phone. I hate computers!
Does anyone know what fluids and oils go where in this D6. I really need to know what goes into trans and what goes into steering clutches.
Original spec is SAE30 in everything but the starting engine which uses SAE10W.
Hey thanks for that info. I really would have thought that the final drives and the transmission would have something like 80-90. It looks like the transmission and steering clutches share the same oil as it does not list separate oil capacities for trans and steering clutches. Just steering clutch controls. Would TO4 30 wt be what one would want to use or be acceptable in all the gearboxes?
Well I am finally getting a chance to post some pictures. first pics are where it was setting when we bought it.
Here is the pump with the stuck rack. Pulling pump apart to access rack. first start with cover on back of governor housing exposing the high idle stop. When moving throttle from no fuel to fuel position the stop does not spring against high idle stop proving the rack is stuck. Next the governor housing is removed exposing the rack rod and governor flyweights. With the plug removed at the front of the pump drive flange and a generous amount of carb cleaner and penetrating oil we would tap the rack forward then use a punch and tap the rack rearward several times till it broke free and moved as easy as can be. Here is my buddy Joe scrapping off and replacing old gasket from gov housing. After it is all put back together we started it and here it his pulled out of the briar patch ready to be loaded on trailer. Video of first start still to come.
Steering clutches are dry. Just the steering booster gets oil. Substituting 85-90 in the trans and finals is fine, so is the TO-4. You got away easy with the rack, had lifters and plungers been stuck you probably would have had some damage.
That,s weird the steering clutches are dry and the flywheel clutch is wet. I would have thought it would a been the other way around.. On the pump yea your probably right. Of course if that was the case the previous owner would have destroyed it when when he tried starting it. Wish I knew why the rack was stuck.
Stuck rack is typical for a unit that has set a long time. Old fuel/varnish, a little condensation/moisture and things glue themselves together. Much worse with the later sleeve metering pumps.
Here is the first start video. finally got it together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QhkUFr_QUI
(As we used to say, a while ago) Right On! It's great to see a machine move again when there is a tree (bush) grown-up thru it. I don't know anything about bulldozers; are the winches for a pulled scraper?
I have the workshop manual for the 977H which also has the D333 engine, if you need anything engine related I'll be happy to scan it for you! Glad to hear you got the old girl going!
I think the style of winch it has on it was for an old school cable type dozer. I think lots of people around here used them for skidding logs or pulling yourself out of a pond if you get stuck. I am sure there are more uses I dont even know about. I need to find or fabricate some levers for my winch. I have not had any luck getting the winch to work. Looks like its not engaged or something. There must be a PTO engagement I do not know about. Anyone know?
Thanks for the offer. I am sure I will need something at some point. I am not having much luck finding a manual or parts book. there is a reprint on e-bay but its wrong serial number range. That and I have had bad luck with reprints.
That is a cable control unit. Used for cable operated blade or cable operated scraper. They are direct coupled to the pto shaft, no means for disconnect. They are not meant to be used as a towing winch and do not have the capacity to do towing winch duty.
Cable operated scraper? WHERE DO I GET ONE OF THOSE LOL! If it is direct coupled shouldnt you be able to see the drums or breaks turning when the clutch is engaged? or at least thats what I remember of my dads old cable D6. I was very young and my memory could be skewed.
There are a lot of cable operated scrapers around for sale. Check craigslist, or any of the earth moving equipment sales on the net. A Cat 60 scraper would be the Caterpillar match for your D6. There are a few other brands out there also that would match up. If the drums are not turning when you pull the lever its either out of adjustment or the clutches are shot, probably from trying to use it as a pulling winch, both common. They are easy to work on. New clutch and brake linings are available.
I really would like to find one! I will keep my eye out for one. Something else to drag to the steam engine show next year.
To bad this is not closer or id be on it like a hobo on a hot dog! http://desmoines.craigslist.org/hvo/5234657576.html
I think you need one size bigger anyway. they are around.
Looks like a bunch of the cat 60s have been converted to hydraulic. Just have to keep my eye open and one will pop up. Scored a parts manual on e-bay for $25 free shipping. its oem cat manual printed 1977 but it fits serial range and track gauge.
I scored a factory oem service manual today for $65 shipping included. I feel that is an awesome deal! Should get to work on re upholstering the seats and arm rests in the next few days. Has anyone ever sandblasted a piece of equipment like this? I really want to clean this up and get a fresh coat of paint on it. Just wondered how it turned out for ya. I dont like painting over the old paint as it looks rough and its usually not long before it starts peeling.
Many many moons ago I steam cleaned ag Cats. Safer than sand blasting.
there was a Letourneau out in Indiana pretty reasonable... but you need to be sure that the pan you get is sized to fit your tractor too wide and you cant pull it, too narrow and it destroys your tracks.
Good advice. How would to narrow destroy your tracks?
1st pass is no problem. For the 2nd pass you have created a channel that is the width of the scraper cutting edge. If that channel is only slightly less than the measurement over the outside of the tracks then you'll have the outside edge of the tracks trying to run on top and the inside edge trying to run down in the channel. Not good for the tracks in the long term.
Well I hope I get the chance to try my hand at it sometime!
My buddy pulled the seat and arm rests off the machine and has delegated to me the job of recovering the seats. Guess that makes since cause I have a industrial upholstery sewing machine. So my first project is to recover the seats. the seat base is made out of wood. Not sure if that's stock or not. I doubt it since its plywood and 2x4 construction with nails. There is just enough left of the pile of mulch that is the seat base to re create what is there. Will get some pictures tomorrow.
Seats and arm rests do have plywood in them. Not sure about 2 x4 especially with nails. John Hahn is a reliable source if you want perfect reproduction Cat seats and arm rests.
Thats pretty much what this is only the seat base has two pieces of plywood in it. there is a wood frame seperatiing the two pieces of plywood and gives the seat a good 4-5 inch boost and is then topped off with a piece of 4 inch foam. It is also built in a way that the front of the seat is about 3/4" to an inch higher than the back of the seat. I think it wont be no problem to re-create this. don't really care if its perfect reproduction as long as its comfortable and usable. The foam and wood in the old one are water logged and weigh a ton!
Did not get a chance at all to work on seats. Spent all day working on bank account problems from stolen checks! What a pain in the rear. If I find them can I beat them?
Don't sandblast; using high pressure air to fling sharp sand and very fine, and abrasive, sand dust at a machine is not good. It sounds like you know old tractor people, they can point you to the right equipment paint (not auto paint). Equipment or tractor paint looks right and it wont peel. I don't know if Cat sells paint in the old Highway Yellow color, but paint like the equipment paint they sell is what you need.
Well had a chance to work on the seat some today. Here is the pile of mulch that was my old seat base. there was just enough to get a good idea of how to build a new one. Here is the new seat base Cut some new foam from some foam from recycled mattress. Hard to believe but best way to cut this stuff is with an electric turkey carving knife. Time to fire up the ol sewing machine And new seat. I know its not perfect and there are a few flaws but its darn good enough for heavy equipment and Id park my ass on it for a while LOL
This was the general seat construction back in the day....some did have wood frames but still had the coil springs in the cushions.
That seat looks good. I'd park my but on it. I have sat (and still do on occasion) on a whole lot worse.
My Grand Dad was a master at upholstery. That was his trade and he could throw material through a sewing machine as fast as it would go and it would look perfect. I had to change the pulleys on my sewing machine to slow it down. I need a bunch of practice yet. Its been hard to get a good project to practice on. This fits the bill real nice. Hardest thing of all is how to figure how to cut out the material and where to sew it to look right.
Nice!
On the blade you can see the rivets where the serial number used to be but now is gone! How do I find what model or serial number range this blade would be in? I really need to order corner tip as they are so worn out. The center section cutting edge is flip-able and it looks like it hasen't been flipped yet. I will try and get some good pictures of the blade today. It has some stuff on it that makes me wonder if it is even for this machine and was retrofitted.
Scratch around where the tag was, should be stamped number there. Original 6S blade would be a 16C1-16C5000 or 85C1-85C1471 Standard end bits are 1J130 LH, 1J129 RH Heavy duty bits are 9F7074 LH, 9F7073 RH
Yep you were right under all the crud was a number. Sn 35c3593. I will get pics of up tonight when I get to a computer.
All info on 35C prefix is available only on microfiche, not online. Your only hope is that someone like OM has a paper Parts Manual available.
That's 85C not 35C and the s/n's go up to 85C5598. 85C1472-up uses the same heavy duty bits but the standards are 5J6924 LH and 5J6923 RH
Yep I am betting you are right again! its hard as heck to tell from what was stamped in as it was done pretty poorly. How do you tell the heavy duty from a standard bit or can you use either? here are some pictures of my blade. I know its seen better days and you can see where it was extended on the top and notched for tree pusher attachment. Had plenty of stuff welded to it and cut off in its day. What are the brackets for on the picture of the back side of blade down on bottom in the middle?
The extra low mounted brackets make it a dual purpose blade for both cable and hydraulic installation. Regular bits are squared off on the end where the heavy duty have a sort of wing tipped extension. Might be a little thicker plate as well.
I should really concentrate more instead of trying to watch TV and surf the net at the same time .... The difference between standard and HD is about $30 ($60 vs $90 each) and as OM says the HD ones are slightly thicker and have more of an extended lower outside corner to help them cut.
When my job had me seriously into undercarriage and GET maintenance some years ago, a HD end bit was also known as a "cast corner", ie. it was a cast piece of steel, whereas a standard end bit was known as a "hot cupped corner", insofar as it was made from a piece of plate which had been hot forged into shape. You could install either one as the bolt spacings were identical. Edit. I should add that this applied to U and semi U blades. Light duty straight and PAT blades just had shaped and drilled pieces of cutting edge for end bits.
Hey guys thanks for the info. I plugged those part numbers into the computer and nothing comes up readily. May not be to common of a part anymore. Will have to wait till monday to see what the aftermarket guys can come up with. Probably will piggyback it onto an order I need to place for loader teeth.
Do a parts search on www.machinerytrader.com Lots of both out there.
Here is the new seats installed
Does anyone know how to check the oil level of the steering clutch control? I know where the oil goes and how much it takes but cant see how to check the level. Unfortunately the maintenance manual I bought has no info on it. How would one change the oil on this also?
Nice job on the upholstery. You could probably pull the battery boxes, fuel tank, and misc if you still have the itch to sandblast.
Dip stick is next to the fill/vent plug on the RH side of the flywheel housing. You need to get the "Operation and Maintenance Instructions" book for the 44A1-up tractor.
Isn't that for the wet flywheel clutch? I need to know for the steering clutch hydraulic assist that's on top of the trans. fill plug is under the seat on the top. Yes I do need one of those manuals. Thanks
I'll tell you if you build me a seat like that for my 977H! Just kidding of course, but it sure looks great! If I remember right on my D6 9U you filled the oil up to the bottom of the filler plug, not sure if your D6B would be the same but I do believe they're similar.
Yup, thinking wrong clutch. The D6B O & M manual shows a blank plate at the back under the seat with a small pipe plug near the top for level check. Shows fill plug top center under the seat. If it's like the "U" models there should be a big round hole in the seat tank that you access after lifting the cushion. If you had equipment mounted on the back that blocked access, fill and suction/drain was done through this access. As mentioned there could be the fill stand pipe out the back in which case you would fill to neck level. If there is no equipment mounted on the back drain access to the sump plug is through the big center cover plate.
I will have to look again to see what I have. Its suppose to rain here all day so I guess I will head out to the shop and work on 955 final drive parts. I am not sure what you mean by seat tank. when my seat bottom is removed all that under it is a direct view to the top of the trans and steering clutch housing. What kind of equipment mounted do you mean? I have the winch on this one. would be nice to get a picture of these access point if you book shows them. thanks so much
If you can see the steering clutch case top you should be seeing the steering clutch booster. There is a stand pipe and big hex fill plug mounted to the large top bolt on the cover. With cable control unit on the back I don't think you can access the level plug. Just eyeball it in the fill pipe. To drain oil the smaller plug forward/center has a pump suction screen and accesses the bottom of the sump and you will need a suction pump to remove the oil. You need to acquire the manuals.
Yes I know I need the manuals. Managed to get a parts book and Service manual but cant yet locate the operation and maintenance manual. I looked all over e-bay and one just is not available at the moment. Hey would you know the publication number for that manual?
workshoprat92, If you'd like I could try contacting a shop near me that works on mostly old Cat equipment to see if they may have an OP/MIANT. manual for a D6B they would be willing to part with for a reasonable price. Is the S/N from your post correct? 44A1898. If they have one it maybe a little rough but rough is better than nothing.
Yea that would be cool! Thanks! Yes that is the serial number.
You can also buy them directly from Cat now in 3 formats; paper, CD, and PDF download. https://www.cattechmanuals.com/
Here's the results of a quick search. Reprint + enhancements. May be available as pdf download. I cannot vouch for the outfit since I haven't done business with them. http://www.jensales.com/Caterpillar-D6B-Equipment-Operator-Manual-CT-O-D6-3744A_p_68649.html
The O & M manual I'm referencing is Form # 33514-5. The dash 5 is edition #5
Call me old school but I really like an original cat manual. I have had bad luck with reprints and a pdf manual is just a pain in the ass to use in my honest opinion. Some of those reprints are just to expensive and when ya get it the dill hole that copied it usually sets the contrast so dark the pictures are useless. Or at least that's my past experience with it. I am willing to wait and get an OEM manual.
Hi all of you, I have this caterpillar 117-8131 Mount. According to Caterpillar it works for the dozers D6R D9R D10N D10R, but I don't know anything else about it. Do you have any information regarding this part?! It would really help me. Thanks everybody!
It's a cab mount. It fits multiple machines.
Ok looking at the back of the machine between the winch and the fuel tank on the plate on the back of the booster is a plate with a small plug in it up towards the top. I think this to be the fill level indicator plug.
That booster is similar to what my D6 9U had, the biggest difference is that where that little plug is on yours, mine had a slanted filler neck and you filled it to the bottom of the neck which incidentally happened to be around that height... I'll be home tomorrow and if by then nobody else has a better answer for you, I'll look in the manual and see what the level should be for the 9U anyway, hopefully that helps you a bit...
Yes, that's the level check plug.....and the fill stand pipe.
Ok so now to change the oil I need a suction gun to suck it out of the fill stand pipe right?
No, you need to remove the hex plug with the slot in it forward of the cover plate. Remove the screen to get access to the bottom of the sump.
the filler port in the picture you have is a bit different than what we have. Next time i am near it I will get a picture of that area to make sure I am looking at the right thing. The machine is at my business partners yard.
Ignore the filler port these things come in several configurations but the guts are the same.
Hey guys back on the corner bits for the blade. Something is odd. I have a blade SN 85C3593. Cat dealer tells me the cat pn for the blade tips are 3g8322 LH and 3g8321 RH. in a post way back I was told they are: standards are 5J6924 LH and 5J6923 RH Heavy duty bits are 9F7074 LH, 9F7073 RH. I found a sweet deal on the 9F7074's And 9F7073's but need to be absolutely certain they will fit my blade. Any thoughts or ideas?
Better go with Cat on that one. The 85Cxxxx series seems to be pretty obscure. Not one that I have any info on and not typical of what you'd find on the D6B.
All of them fit the 85C blade. Believe it or not, it's in SIS for some odd reason. The parts book calls for 5J6924 LH and 5J6923 RH standard or 9F7074 LH, 9F7073 RH heavy duty. I do not follow the progression in NPR, but the 3G8322 LH and 3G8321 RH show up under the 8F-8908 blade group there Edit: OK, looks like effective with 85C1472 that the 5J6923 and 5J6924 plus the 9F7073 and 9F7074 were the right parts. Before 85C1472, the light end bits were 1J0129 and 1J0130 which is now 3G8321 and 3G8322. Heavy duty did not change. That's how I read it.
Not from what I can see on SIS. The 85C3593 shows 5J6923/24 standard corner bits and 9F7073/74 Heavy Duty corner bits. 3G-8321/22 will also fit despite the fact they are not shown on the Parts Manual for the OP's blade S/N in SIS. 3G-8322 has the following former numbers listed - 6J-0278, 2C-1844, & 1C-6519. Out of those 3 numbers 2C-1844 services to 9F-7074 which is I believe where we came in. Similarly 3G-8321 has 2C-1845 as a former number and that services to 9F-7073. QED .........
From what I gather those 3 part numbers will bolt on my blade no problem. Also looking at the hensley part book aftermarket it apears those 3 blades all have the same dimensions, bolt hole sizing and bolt hole spacing. That being said if I Found the 9f7073/74 end bits for $23 apiece I should probably buy all 8 they have in stock?
I would. That's about 1/4 of the Cat list price ........
Unless they are Chinese made then they will probably have 1/4 the life.
I was assuming they were genuine Cat. Maybe I shouldn't have .......
They are Hensley brand. Still think that's a good aftermarket part. From what I gather they have had them on hand for a long while and really want to get rid of them. Prolly made before the cheap Chinese invasion.
Here is a picture of the bits they sent me. I have found when dealing with aftermarket to make sure to get a picture of what your getting or it might be unusable as some Chinese knock offs don't quite make the translation well or correctly.
For what it's worth, I think Hensley are probably the best of the non-OEM suppliers. I've had good luck in the past with both their weld on adapters and tips.
Is that the front or the back? If it's the front you're going to need hex head bolts instead of plow bolts. Not ideal.
The square shoulders are just recessed in the hole, if you look closely at the top end bit that's upside down at the farthest hole to the right it's visible. The head of the plow bolt will be about 1/2" recessed when bolted up.
Thats the front. It is dished and has a square cut for plow bolts. It is very hard to see in the pictures because of the shadowing. If you look real hard and blow up the picture you can see it in some of the holes.
Oh yes, I see now. As an aside, I don't think those are 9F7073/4. SIS lists those part numbers as being forged end bits. I think what you have is 3G8321/2 hot cupped end bits.
Whatever they are they look to be a good deal for the price. IF they fit!
Well I went to order the 8 bits. After they figured shipping and tax they billed me $498. After I canceled the order I showed them how to get the shipping cost down with a different shipper and having it held at terminal and fixing the tax goof up as they were charging me Texas and Missouri tax the total came to $368. I cant belive a business like that could be so bad at logistics and would think that shipping 1.5 times the cost of the parts would be ok. So what the shipper was gona charge $130 from the terminal 10 miles to my house. Hell no hold at terminal and I will come get it 10 miles for $130!
Does anyone know what the publication number for a parts manual for a 35C serial number dozer blade would be?
Two candidates (maybe more) Form # 32585 Covers 6A/6S 15C5001-up 16C5001-up 15C1-5000 16C1-5000 85C1-up Form # UE033684 Covers 15C5001-8176 16C5001-20328 15C1-2680 16C1-5000 85C1-5598
Here is the pic of the blade center section flipped and the new corner bits installed.
Found the Form # 32585 book on e-bay for $9 with free shipping. THANKS SO MUCH!
I have an original cat service manual, for serial numbers 37A1-up and 44A1-up also have the operation and maintenance manual. the service manual is in very good shape, the operation and maintenance is a bit rough.
I do have a service and parts manual I got on e-bay. I do need the operation and maint manual. are you saying you would sell it?
I would sell the O&M, manual, I got lazy and didn't read all the post or I would probably know that you had already got the service manual.