I was wondering if someone could walk me though fixing this? Picture attached. This is on a Case 580C. Does this look like it is coming from a real shaft seal, or somewhere else? Does this required dropping the whole shuttle, or can it be done in place? I was going to power wash this area and try to better understand where it is coming from. As I take care of the many other leaks, I can finally notice new ones!
Looks like the output seal which can be done in place. Remove the driveline and the yoke to gain access.
There's a breather on top of the shuttle, take a good look to see if it's coming from there.
Okay, good to know it can be done in place. I took a look at the breather and it seemed *somewhat* dry inside, but I'll take a better look (and maybe confirm via a well placed clean rag while running).
What's the deal with that pesky vent leaking? when I got my C the shuttle leaked from several points so I figured a rebuild would remedy the problem, nope everything was dry but the vent, it will operate for hours without a drip no problem but after sitting for a while it will randomly start leaking from the vent sometimes it will start leaking with a temperature change?? I installed a 3 ft. piece of neoprene hose with a vent cap on the end routed up into the frame and it constantly still pukes out of that.It won't hurt anything as fluid gets topped off if necessary before each use but hytran isn't cheap and it would be nice to eliminate that big oil spot where the beast is parked..Is there something I'm missing?
Is the output seal in this picture? It's not jumping out at me. There is a part #26 (D70668) listed as a seal, but not shown? #11 are seals, but look maybe buried in there...
Verify this is the correct image. Here ---> #28 https:// www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/casece/light-equipment/loader-backhoes/naes49loa234c/case-construction-king-loader-backhoe/power-train/power-shuttle-transmission-housing-pinion-cage-and-output-shaft/cn/09719144-8FBF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/BED06496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
I was on the wrong page - thank you for pointing that out! I'll get the #D50060 and tear into it.
Working on getting to the seal that is leaking. Is the next step to get on this nut with an impact? It looks like it has a crimp on the face of the nut - is it a one time use? Also, it looks like I'll need some silicone behind it when I put it back together? I want to be sure that putting an impact wrench on this to get it off would be the right move... the two outcomes tend to be the nut comes off or something breaks...
Do you have the 580C service manual ?
Yes you can spin that nut off with an impact just make sure you hold the yoke stationary when you do it.The nut can be reused if needed unless it is honked, if you're concerned use a little blue loctite when reinstalling.Make sure not to just crank the nut down when putting it back together you'll smoke the rear bearing. The only specs I can find in the manual if that is in fact the output flange nut is 75-85 ft. lbs.You shouldn't need any silicone for the new seal, but al little zookie on the outside won't hurt anything just don't over do it.For what it's worth you have the newer style output yoke/driveshaft so torque specs may vary..
Hi Tinkerer, I do have the service manual, but I'll admit I asked here before I flipped through that. Looking at it now I can't seem to find the exact section I need... I do see the power shuttle section, but I did not see where they put that end together. stinky64, thanks for the run down. I'll hold it from spinning when I do it. I might have just cranked it back down so I'm glad you said something. I'll use that torque spec unless I find something else when I reassemble. I'm assuming I'll see the seal I need to get to soon
That is a nylock nut --3/4" 16NF That nut has been staked with a cold chisel by a previous repairman. I would not reuse it.
I cleaned up the sealing surface on the yoke and added a very small amount of silicone to the washer. I can see the logic in sealing that, since there is fluid behind it. I guess it could still get through under the nut, now that I think about it... good enough for now. The seal went in fairly hard, and I should have used a better tool to set it (rather than a scrap piece of wood). It tried to roll once it was most of the way in - so I urged it to go in a bit with a small tool and carried on. You can see it from 3:00 to 6:00. I torqued the nut down to 80 ft-lbs and attached the drive shaft. Ran the machine while I filled it back up with Hy-tran. After cleaning up it was still dry, so I'll take it for now. Tinkerer - I ended up reusing the nut so hopefully that works out. I was wondering what the marks on it were (I learned the term staked) - I guess that is done to hold it on there a bit better - maybe because there is a limited amount of torque than can be used with a bearing. ...A bearing that was saved, along with a lot of work, because stinky64 set me straight on the torque for that. Thanks all!