So, does anyone have the CORRECT part number for the old external top spline precup removing tool. cat keeps wanting to give me the 5F8353 witch is the internal tool. Got an 815 compactor 91P383 that needs the orings replaced, puking coolant all over. Any torque specs would be awesome also. Thanks in advance Russ
Russ I'm on vacation so I can't check my tools number. One thing to look out for is a plugged cooling system. My 3306 in a 980B kept blowing the rings. I found out from Tctractors (I hope that's right) the oil cooler gets plugged and starves the head of coolant. Also when the cooler is cleaned a bunch of junk to the radiator which then needs cleaning. Good luck Randy
cooling system has been completely cleaned, it had been stop leaked, and now im sure the stop leak has been washed out. This engine was last rebuilt 20+ years ago so its likely due, 2 are leaking so all will get done. Its so old the "new" guys at cat are clueless.
You got that right about the new Cat guys being clueless. The young guys had no idea, I told them bring out a guy with gray hair LOL. They did but he admitted all those guys retired. The best info I got was on here. Randy
Are you sure that the 5F8353 is not the right tool? I just checked Cat online and they show that as the tool in a publication dated 1972. This is a 3306 engine with glow plugs right? I believe if you remove the nut that holds the fuel nozzle in the prechamber and lift the nozzle holder and nozzle out you will find that the prechamber has internal splines that will mate up with those of the 5F8353 tool. As I recall from watching them make prechambers at the factory many years ago the external splines are there for use in the manufacturing process. Also when re-installing the chambers there is proper procedure to pick the correct thickness gasket so the glow plug is positioned correctly. I could email you the pages on how this is done if you would send me an email address.
Some numbers that might also help. Prechamber seals and adjusting gaskets: 7S-3206 seal 2S-8959 GASKET .223" 2S-8960 GASKET .248" 5M-2667 GASKET .194" I tried attaching the pdf instructions but get message saying file is too big. I can send it by email if you would like.
thank you very much, parts are coming, my co worker has a D7G book with the correct clocking angles, and I can tell from the book they are way off. I have not removed the injector till parts got here so thursday it gets fixed. Ill post the turnout Thanks russ
Well ,it turns out the tool was correct, Thanks all. Then the thing runs for a day and cyl 4 and 5 are weeping again, those oring grooves were pitted pretty bad, none quickly available. Sooo, ordered 6 new ones, and new fuel nozzles and will redo it tomorrow. I am guessing since the coolant is only coming around the chamber to o-ring and not head to oring the chamber is the culprit. the one shop that does these heads backed up my guess. Its easy to work on and the boss made the call to assemblewith pitted chambers so my butts in the clear.
What dids the old rings look like? All crumbly? Does this machine run a bit warm? Do you ever hear a gurgling or gulping noise when shut off hot? My orings failed twice in only a matter of hours as yours did. As I said before the oil cooler was blocked.
we cleaned the oil cooler and inspected the trans cooler, the radiator was glazed with oil and dirt so that probably didnt help, but it was cleaned before this last go around, the original or ings were crumbly. the aftermarket ones were black and didnt last the day. yellow cat ones now have 14 hrs on them and all is good.
That's great!
The oil cooler wasnt plugged, just 2 tubes, the last "mechanic" obviously liked rtv, worms were everywhere. It has a place and it only takes a little, not half a tube to put on radiator and waterpump castings, idiot. If you file/sand the castings flat it takes no sealer, imagine that.LOL And it runs so much better with new fuel nozzles.no spitting and such under medium loads.
As many of us have said on here - "do it once and do it right" has a place in the world of heavy equipment repair. Your experience is just more proof, if it were needed, that it's the right way.
So if the socket on a huge bar won't shift it what next? Reason I ask is because i just had my D4 head in for servicing and we could not shift the chambers
Lots of heat & judicious use of the FBH ........
This is risky but I've always used a 3/4" Impact. IR 261 which is low torque. I know I never had to use the 1" CP on one. A little reverse, a little forward and repeat until she comes out. Just don't get carried away in reverse. You're operating a tap. If she's rotted she could snap off and will be come a machine shop problem with corresponding charge. This method is fraught with disaster so be gentle when in reverse.
Was always easier to crack them loose when they were fitted to the machine ! Too much pipe and you will strip the spline off the tool Then its weld a big nut to the top of the chamber and undo it with a socket and that same big bit of pipe. And yes sometimes the threads will strip, but helicoil inserts were available from cat. Was even a mandrel that sat in the bore where the O ring is and you put a big drill with a morse taper through it and cut it to size [ I used to just turn the drill with a 18" crescent] Thread it with the special tap and wind the insert in. Am pretty sure it all came in a cat kit with the usual 'special instructions' ! cheers :drinkup