I getting ready to paint my 580C extendahoe and need some cleaning advice. Im planning on gunking the thing down and preshure washing it. I know the difference between gas and diesel motors as far as gas having the distributor to watch out for getting wet but is there anything to be careful with a diesel when preshure washing it?
I'd be careful around any breather vents .
Any electronics or ECM's I take care to not spray water directly on them. It usually isn't the end of the world if they get a little wet though.
You'd be hard pressed to find an ECM in that bad boy, and it's pretty light on the 'electronics' also. There is a breather on top of the Transaxle, then one on top of the Shuttle. Then aside from the breather hose on the valve cover, the air intake and exhaust pipe, that's pretty much it for places that water could get in where you don't want it to.
We always used Easy Off oven cleaner to help remove baked on grease around the engine area before painting . https://www.walmart.com/ip/EASY-OFF-Heavy-Duty-Oven-Cleaner-14.5-oz/25162098 Spray it on & let it work for about a half hour then power wash it off . Removes grease and some paint . Pretty good stuff ! Make sure the can is aimed in the rite direction , this stuff is caustic and hard on the eye's . Or just have the wife to clean the engine off so nobody get's hurt .
Try to keep the water out of the starter and alternator. Especially keep the easy off out of them. Any accesory bearings too.
Thank you for the replies, the oven cleaner idea sounds good,never would have thought of that. It probably works better than gunk which I have used before and wasn't really excited abought the results all that much. any ideas on getting it clean enouph for the paint to stick to the thing? its greasy as heck all over
Guess we know who does not share his computer with the better half! Or if she is good with this maybe any single guys here should be checking to see if she has a sister
What kind of paint job are you planning? A twenty foot roller job, or two part fancy pancy with a clear coat? Basically there's no perfect way to prep rusty greasy old equipment, if it's blasted clean with a pressure washer, then the little bit of oil left in the cracks and crevices isn't such a big deal.
X2 on the oven cleaner , it will even remove some old paint. We would even warm the engine so that it was more effective. We would also start the machine after washing it and warm it to dry out any electrical connections it might have.
I was wondering abought running the thing to warm it up,seems like a good idea. I went and got 2 cans of easy off. I'm planning on blowing it down with paint thinner after the degreasing and blowing it down with laquer thinner before paint. I'm going to look into the nappa paint,or ordering online. I like the more oranger/darker yellow than the bright yellow. I'll use oil base something with no hardner.im starting today.
I'm thinking on using this paint,Case power tan,supposed to be the older case color from 70's-80's.mine is 1980 has anyone ever used this brand,and is it a decent paint?
I would not advise warming up the machine just prior to applying the paint. The paint will dry fast enough on its own. I used a pump style plastic weed sprayer to wash my machine with laquer thinner and had very good results. I used OEM Case Power Tan Yellow with a hardener added. After sitting outside 24/7 for quite a few years the paint still looks good.
LOL Ken ! The better half put's up with allot
With all the work involved on the prep for paint I would go with acrylic enamel . Oil base paint takes forever to dry & fades out fast in the sun . Had pretty good luck with Dupont " Nason fast dry " acrylic enamel . Sprays on like old school acrylic and holds the shine & color good over the years .
Does it require a special primer or can it be sprayed directly over clean weathered paint of unknown origin?
I'm wondering if it needs primer also? what abought the motor,do I need high heat engine paint?
No need for primer over existing paint on the machine as long as its not cracking & peeling up . Clean her up good & wipe it all down with lacquer thinner to remove any oil . Wet sand scuff it with some 360 grit paper & blow the color on . Original paint that's sticking good to the metal it the best primer . Not to mention it's already the rite color . We sprayed the FWD truck cab yellow with acrylic enamel one hot summer morning . Waited couple hours & taped off for the flat black on the hood . Sprayed the hood & done by noon . Acrylic dries fast in hot weather . About like concrete LOL ! http://www.heavytruckforums.com/showthread.php?51-Fwd-Trucks
it sounds like acrylic paint holds up longer than enamel, is that correct? it was painted over the original paint which is coming off by power washing it and the original paint is still pretty good shape so I'm not going to primmer it except were I sand it down to bare metal,mostly top of fenders around the cab and roof post. I'm ready to order paint, just need to know whats the best and were to get it? i painted one of my smaller tractors a couple years back with enamel and its flat as heck already, The Florida heat is a bitch now days. i want my 580C to look good a lot longer than that for sure.
Yeah Dave , the acrylic enamel holds up well in the elements and pretty user friendly to apply . You got the rite idea on prepping the machine , power wash & blow off the old repaint job . I also like a wire wheel on a grinder to help remove loose paint & rust . Don't worry about any scratching the base paint with it . Scratches & scuffs help the new paint stick to the old surface . Having a hard time finding the correct color on the net . Wheel in to a NAPA store or any parts place that sells /mixes paint . Tell them ya want some old school acrylic enamel & reducer to thin it with . NAPA still carries Martin Senour products . Not the correct color but this is what I would look at . https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MSRGALPCC135SR?searchCategory=704.7041&searchIndex=Prod+Tools Pick yourself up a good respirator as well , need to keep all the brain cells safe from the paint so we can enjoy the barley soda's after the jobs done https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MMM37077
We use acrylic enamel on all the equipment . Auto HeavyEquipmentForums BMX bike HeavyEquipmentForums Dozer http://www.heavytruckforums.com/showthread.php?263-Some-Holmes-750-action&p=2519&viewfull=1#post2519 Excavator is due for a paint job . 20 some years on acrylic enamel , she's got some rust & fading going on http:// www.heavytruckforums.com/showthread.php?263-Some-Holmes-750-action&p=2528&viewfull=1#post2528st Pretty good paint that holds up over time .
I haven't used acrylic enamel since 1982. I really hated it back then. When you took the tape off, the paint came off with it like sheets of saran wrap. I got in the habit of painting most everything with Dupont Imron polyurethane paint. If I was painting junk, I'd use solvent based enamel or oil based alkyd. I sure hope acrylic enamel is a lot better now than it was then. Please tell me it is. What about urethane paints? Aren't people using it for equipment?
Yeah check , understand the problem bro ! We peel all tape & masking " newspaper " rite after the last coat is applied . Don't wait for it to dry overnight & pull tape next morning , Yank it off after the last paint blast so she don't lift & pull the paint around the edge . Old Indian trick my shop teacher shared with me back in the 1980's . LOL ! It works
Check, the short answer is "not really." Urethane is more common now than not. In the early 2000's, the VOCs (solvents) and HAPs (heavy metals) were limited by epa regs to the point that many OEMs shifted to 2k type coatings. The above is why you see early 2000s model machines with the paint falling off of em. They were after the lowered limit 1K products and before the later 2K products. I don't want to derail this thread as I can go on and on about this stuff as we sell auto/industrial paints at work. To often the OPs get their budget blown and get their wants confused as a thread goes off the rails over what is best. Equipment enamel with hardener/catalyst is a good choice for a budget equipment paintjob.
Yeah Scott , glad you chimed in on the paint subject . Ben using nason in the past and was really happy with the results . Tried searching the interwebs with the name & part number of the paint & not getting much . Might be discontinued ? Came up with nason acrylic enamel " Binder " . http://products.axaltacs.com/dcat/us/en/nsn/product/IEQuality.html
Strange. I keep black 414-1000 on the shelf. I used to stock a couple more but black is all I seem to sell. The smaller body/detail shops use it instead of chassis black as it covers better. Their website seems to have errors. I'm happy to share paint processes. Just realize its a potential rabbit hole. The technology changes every 3-5 years and the volume of products and processes is nearly endless.
I'm wanting to use the original case paint for my 580c and they say paint can't be shipped it has to be picked up at the dealer which is a long way to go, I'm having a hard time finding acrylic enamel equipment paint period,weird, seems like it would be all over the net
anyone know how good this paint is? I can get it case power yellow which what I can find looks much like power tan. What abought Rustoleum for a job like this? I can get it in Cat. yellow that mite work to. paint can be shipped on ebay but not from a dealer,they told me it takes a permit to ship ups,sounds like bs to me.
The Rustolem is oil-based paint, meaning boiled linseed oil based. I might use it on my 50 year old dozer, but it loses it's gloss in about 3 years. Spray a light coat, let it get tacky 20 minutes; then spray final coat. This is to prevent runs, but you'll get some anyway. It's a slow dry paint. Old style oil based paints like this are basically just boiled linseed oil, clay, pigment and hardeners. Henry Ford said "You can buy a new Ford Model T any color you want, so long as it's black". Dontcha just know the pigment was finely ground coal?
There must be a CNH dealer not far from you David. Call one somewhere and see if you have any purchase options from them. I don't know if this helps but I did a little research and it appears ,at least to me that Nason no longer sells acrylic premixed colors. They are showing an acrylic enamel on their website that can be tinted. O'Reilly Auto stores are are dealers of Nason paints maybe they can order it. http://products.axaltacs.com/dcat/us/en/nsn/product/IEQuality.html
Black still is coal dust just in better resin. Look in the phone directory for your area. Has to be an auto body supply place around you somewhere. There's always some jobber from FL in training classes they send me to. Apparently, The FL sun is not kind to paint.
Looks like I'm going to have to take the drive into hell. I live in the country in N. Fl. a town of like 650 people and the dealer is close to the Orlando Fl. airport which is in a very heavy populated area. I can drive up town to the winn dixie on sunday and have no cars behind me or in front sometimes and I have a real com soul after many years of that so the large city thing really sucks. But I gota do what I gota do. I really don't have a lady I would do it for but I will for my backhoe, it hasn't complained much since ive had it. Thanks for all the replies
Try calling the dealer in Wichita and see if they will ship to you. The Victor L. Phillips Company - Wichita Phone: 316-838-3346 Email: [email protected] Or you can just try to order online: http://partstore.casece.com/us/VLPCoWichita/paint-cans-c258.html I rattle can painted my little John Deere with Rutoleum Farm Equipment paint and it is holding up okay. I keep it under a shed though so it doesn't sit out in the sun like my backhoe. I don't see that they offer any case colors though.
As cheap as Harbor Freight HVLP guns are, there is little reason for anyone who owns an air compressor to use rattle cans anymore. Rattle can paint jobs are generally high in porosity. The little garden tractor looks good, though. Sometimes the little Harbor Freight "airbrush" HVLP goes on sale, too. It's great for very small areas and easier to clean. One thing good about oil based paint is the shelf life is something like 15 years. I keep lots of it around for misc small jobs and welding projects and slop it on with chip brushes or shoot it with HVLP. It's not the greatest paint but a small step up from rattle cans.
thanks but they say pick it up also,messed up because I can buy paint online and ebay all day long just not the paint I want.the I'm thinkin people at TREKKER TRACTOR are just to lazy to put a can of paint in a stinkin box