I have an older TD15C......seems once it's started, it will move about 30 feet and stop.....going through other gears makes no difference. When running in neutral, the drive shaft spins. I have pulled both filters and they are clean. Just seems like it looses the prime on the pump? I'm about frustrated with it....runs great, just know I'm not capable of pulling transmission. Any help would be appreciated. I hate to scrap it. Thank you.
Might post over on "Red Power". Someone over there probably can help you with the problem. I'm sure they will request more information than what you have given.
Does the drive shaft spin when the transmission is engaged in any gear forward or reverse?
If I hold the brakes while it moves the short distance it will stop spinning. It does spin while it's moving the short distance, but stops when it quits moving.
Thank you.
Does the drive shaft turn at all when you have the brakes locked up in any gear forward or reverse? I am assuming your machine does not have the transmission pressure gauge on the dash panel. You may need to obtain a gauge and check drive train pressures.
It does have a gauge and seems to be within operating indications. It really has me baffled. With the brakes applied it will stop spinning the drive shaft. If it sits for awhile it will move the small distance, but won't do anything after that. Initially you think things are fine, but after the short movement......nothing? You can barely feel it want to engage in the gear you shift it into......not enough zip to move it though? Think the suction lines could be a problem?
What is the pressure gauge show while you are doing this?
I need to double check, but I believe your talking about the gauge that displays run? It's always in the green (run). I'm not at the dozer now, but will check it again.
Sorry it’s taken so long to get back. I finally started it up today and I don’t have a number type gage. It has the gage that just shows run when it is in the green area. It’s normal with this reading? The filters are clean. When you first start in idle, the drive shaft spins as it should but will slow down after it runs awhile. You can throttle it up and it will spin normal, but when you put it in gear it engages in gear but the drive shaft stops. Just barely moves a short distance. Do you think it’s the torque converter?
Hold the brake on like you don't want the machine to move and then put it in gear. The drive shaft should stop completely. Let up the brake and the drive line should move as the machine moves. If the torque converter has a problem it will overheat in short order. What happens when you put it in gear and go to steer it in one direction or the other?
Holding the brake and putting it in gear the drive shaft does not spin. When released it does spin, it won't move very far at this point. It really doesn't move far enough to really get it turning......loses movement. Is there an external pump on the transmission? Lines I'm over looking? In the past when I was running it a lot, if I ever saw the transmission go above the normal heat range, I always shut it down and let it cool off. Never really had issues, added fluid every now and then, but not excessive. I appreciate your advice. Look forward to hearing from you.
Sounds like low convertor inlet pressure I don't have a book on this one find out how to check convertor inlet and outlet pressures
The failure mode for a torque converter is over heating or lots of aluminum showing up in the transmission oil. That doesn't sound like your problem. Will either track turn if you pull the steering lever when you have the transmission in gear? It kind of sounds like something in the transmission, cross shaft or a final drive is broke.
There is a charge pump on the bottom of the transmission that puts oil pressure to clutch packs inside the transmission and they will go bad at times. I would check that first. It will cause them to not move.
Thank you. I will see if I can get some pics too. I hate to have to remove belly pans......again! Got to do it!
Hey John.....I changed the O-Ring on the suction filter housing and it seemed to do better. It was flatter than a pancake, so I may have been loosing something there. I can crank it up, idle up and PTO spins as it should. I can move it and shift though gears.....both forward and reverse. If it slacks in movement, I can stop and rev it up, put back in gear and she will move. I can turn both ways while in motion. My next problem is if you put a load under it.....she will move very little. I still think I may be losing suction on the pump? What are your thoughts? What should I look into next?
It has been years since I’ve been into one of those machines and I don’t remember where the pump is for sure. Can you follow any pipes or hoses to the pump? Suction leaks are a pain. You are to the point of having to confirm pressures with a known good gauge.
If the driveshaft stops when under load, then the problem is definitely in the torque converter/flywheel area. If the oil pressure doesn't drop then I think the front end is all turning because the pump is putting out.
I think the pump is mounted on the back of the converter case?
As John C said suction leaks can be a real pain. Get a couple cans of shaving cream. Smear the shaving cream around the joints on the suction side of the pump and start the machine. If it sucks the shaving cream in then you might have found your problem. If not you are only out a few dollars.
Great thinking! I put shaving cream on all the visible connections I could get too. Mine has the filters underneath the floor panel. I couldn't see anything being sucked in from what was visible. There is a big hose that comes off the suction side and I will probably have to take a belly pan off to follow it back.....can't really see where it goes too. It's a very large older hose.....could be an issue? I can't give up on her yet.....she's been a good one! Where are you located Bam? I'm in North Alabama....small town named Arab....just south of Huntsville.
In gear, stopped, pressure gauge in the green, pull both steering clutches. Driveshaft should spin as the transmission output is now essentially freewheeling. If driveshaft spins, release either steering clutch. Driveshaft stops again? Problem is ahead of the driveshaft. YMMV
If you have the Rockford torque converter the pump is on the torque housing. Suction leaks are famous on those machines so check every mount and connection.
Hello , I hope you solve the problem as soon as possible .
What did you finally determine to be the problem? I’m having the same issue on my TD 15c. Thanks
I’m thinking about going to a 40 wt hydraulic oil to see if this helps stop the converter from stalling? I’m using 20 wt now. Steve
If I recall the TD15C has no steering clutch packs but brake pads that put a gear group to act, I have rebuilt these transmissions and they are some work to tackle, 1 transmission I did had the filters under the floor plates, the other had the filters etc in the side near the shift lever, I can recall that there was 100 in total plates in the packs that I had supplied to me from a company in the U.K. that were shipped in from Germany, the clutch pack seals that seemed larger than the drum I also had Lathe cut for me in Germany, the cost was around a 1/4 of the cost from the U.S. to get the transmission out involved removing all the hydraulic set up for the blade, the transmission is bolted in with only a few bolts but they are pigs to get at some of them, there is a multi control valve block bolted to the top of it that has all the pipes going to the hand control, the transmission itself has a simple 2 speed mechanical section and I think its built by Rockford? I might have posted pictures of the job in Shop Talk, look for my name on removing sprockets.
I Wouldn't go to a thicker oil. The passages in the trans to lube the bearings and other areas are really small and 40 wt won't do it. The original oil for these was 10wt engine oil. I run cat TO2 equivalent oil in mine, should be easy to find. Tractor supply tractor Trans hydraulic fluid meets the spec. The main suction line comes off the main frame case on the lower left very bottom. It takes an inch and a half wrench and is in a tough spot. That line rarely gets changed and could suck air. The connection points could suck air as well going to the filters and charge pump. The charge pump is located on the back of the torque converter housing at about the 10 o'clock position, if you're sitting in the seat looking forward. If the pump is worn, you'll have similar issues. The pump supplies oil to the torque converter and trans. It has to have good pressure. The only wear items in the torque converter are bearings, that will allow aluminum pieces to contact, causing shavings in the filter, or the sealing rings which will cause the trans oil temp to heat up quick ( about 30 minutes). I still run two of these machines and have just rebuilt the transmission in one of them.
Thank you. I have bought and installed a new trans charge pump,”parts changer?” The new pump does help. I’m thinking about that lower hard to get to suction line from the main frame. I have already changed EVERY other line. What is on the end of the suction tube in the main frame? A screen? Is that something I need to check while I’m at it? Again thank you very much. My pressure gauge on the dash still has some movement while I’m operating but with the new pump it no longer goes to 0 when I shift, with the old pump it did.
If I can get back to the books I'll look it up. Have you done any pressure checks on the machine?
No other than the gauge on the dash that doesn’t have numbers. It goes to the far right, high pressure after it starts, but then it fluctuates. Thanks again, steve
I've posted on another thread how to do the checks on this chassis. This is the start of it. Dresser TD 15c converter stall I’m having problems with my converter stalling when in a heavy load. I was wondering if going to a heavier viscosity hydraulic oil would help? Presently, I’m using a 22 wt Hyd oil. I was thinking about going to a 42 wt oil. Any advice would be greatly welcomed. HeavyEquipmentForums
I was told that if the pressure gauge fluctuates while operating you have a suction line leak going to the pump. If you do, it won’t pull.