HI friends my name is john i hav a 95 jd 310d it will pulls fine in reverse when its in forward it seems to slip and will barely pull itself up hill i hav read manuals cover to cover i hav checked the FNR switch an all soleinoids on the reverser cant seem to figure out what the problem is please tell me im a pretty good mechanic and do mostly my own work i just need some ideas as to why this might be happening any help would be greatly appreicated thanks:confused
might i add it has 4800 hours ive noticed ive had 65 views and no replies. i just want to say by no means am i a top dog looking for a freebe but rather a do it yourselfer with all the tools and drive but no diagnostic skills. if anyone is interested they can look at my website monserandsons.com. oh and i just got 1956 d6 love it!had to jump start it with little jd350 loader first time in nine years it started runs great great undercarriage all hell broke loose when i threw that clutch lever forward! ether she will or ether she wont! she did oh and all my toys r girls
On the bottom of the reverser is a square pan it has a screen in it,see if it has clutch fibers in it, they have a clutch for forward and reverse.
thank you i check in day or two that was next step although feared not problem because works in reverse
got home around seven. pulled pan before i reveal condition let me give short history got machine at 4200 hours oil cooler leak at 4300 brazed one of the small 'zones'?put back together at4600 steel line from front pump to rear of hoe developed hole from rattling in steel bracket approximitaly inch and half in outside diameter could have decreased inside diameter from stick welding at 4700 problem begins pulled pan strained fluid almost nothing some metal shavings and very light burnt smell pickup screen floating in pan with oil, dont thinkI i knocked loose with removal im not much of aweler and a simple row of dimes is alot of grinding and building up for me im actually a carpenter
ok oviously i didnt drain pan first thinking it only had court and half in little pan. got bath. oviously 5 or 6 courts when not running. anyhow im actually really mechanically inclined
any input?
Your reverser is made by Borg Warner. Most 580 Cases between 1980 & 1990 or around that time were equiped with the same reverser. There is tones of post that can help you with this exact problem but I can't tell you how to search for the previous posts. I have never been able to learn how to make a search in this forum.
filter looks very clean. no fiberous materials in pan or filtered oil. some tiny metal pieces and some grease like substance (about an ounces worth)around the magnet connected to the pan. does this indicate that my forward clutch plates are probably ok?
Monserandson, Go to this tread and do some looking/reading. You will learn a lot about your reverser. It's the same as yours.
thnks
Another tread with more info on the same reverser.
read the threads thanks deon. when i first got machine i changed all fluids and filters. however i thought i was going to strip out t/c drain bolt so i left alone. went back tonight and welded 15mm wrench to 7/16 6 point socket. got it out and fluid looked/smelled fine. pickup screen looks clean.next step-make sure cooler isnt restricted, next directional controll solenoid, next yank out reverser.
Monserandson, Sounds like your on the right track. Keep us posted. I'm interested in what you find. Hope it's not to expensive. There are rebuilt reversers and rebuild kits available from several places a lot less expensive than Deere. I can help with that if it's needed.
tomorrow I will pick up o ring for pickup screen and torque converter drain plug, refill, do stall test. hope it works. wishfull thinking
well ive turned down some work lately so I finally tore out the reverser.Should I go ahead and order a complete rebuild kit or take it apart first?
it took a long time because it cost me a lot more than i originally thought ended up replacing everything but it works like new again.thanks for the help. a new question has come up. i felt play in both driveshafts so i removed and even though the old universals felt pretty tight i replaced anyway. before reinstalling i noticed that there is what seems like excessive play on the transaxle input shaft and transfer case shaft. niether leak at all but im concerned about the play. any thoughts?
Monserandsons, Glad to hear your machine is fixed. Did you buy a rebuilt reverser and torque converter or did you buy a reverser kit and rebuild yourself? About the play, mine has lots of rotational play but it has 9,500 hrs. I don't know how it compares to new but all I can do is run it like that. I've never heard or read of any that broke because if that.
thanks DEON, i bought rebuild kit, new converter, new front pump, and most of the internal parts that dont come with master rebuild kit.i also flushed cooler and lines. i also installed new flex plate and converter several times in different arrangements to get the minimum runout. i had to make a lot of different items to press in the bearings and needle bearings and one bushing had to be machined to size. many ask about just removing reverser but i installed bellhousing/reverser as a unit with large tranny jack. the only thing i found wrong was the directional control valve was sticky and 1 forward fiber plate(in the center of the pack)was wore down to metal. the play im referring to in the shafts is actually up and down(scary notion) parts breakdown shows tapered bearings and they dont appear to have preload adjustment(both shafts) 4800 hours and i cut open most recent transaxle filter and found nothing to bother me but i definatelly have lateral play in both shafts. any thoughts?
this lateral play im talking about isnt like the shafts are bouncing around, its a side to side to click, like said seals arent leaking, but when you combine that play with the play between the shafts and yokes the up and down play felt in the shafts still seems excessive, despite new u-joints. maybe the shafts kind of float when there spinning? any thoughts?
I had to replace the tapered bearing of the 4 wheel drive shaft. This is the splined shaft that points forward coming out of the bottom left of the main transmission. If had a set of shims that took up the play. I assume the other tapered bearings are setup the same way. There should not be any up and down or side to side play.
Radial, axial, or rotational ? Side to side play doesn't mean anything to me.
Deon, were you able to replace from underneath by removing the cover over the shaft? Them mfwd shaft has more play. Delmer, the play is axial on both shafts
Ok Delmer, let's get technical here LOL. Side to side = radial, in and out = axial. A tapered bearing should not have a lot of radial or axial play. Rotational play can't be caused by the bearing, but only by the spines, gears, key, u-joint or whatever is attached to the shaft. Ok Monserandson, do you want to try again?
Your faster than me Monserandson. If you have axial play, you must also have some radial play in a tapered bearing. Unless the shaft is sliding in and out of the bearing. But that shaft should not do that as I think there is a tapered bearing at both ends. Best to check the parts diagram to be sure. From what I remember, the shim goes under the retainer ring bolted to the outside of the bearing. So you remove the retainer and add a shim and reassemble to check the play. May take several tries to get it right. But you should remove the bearing and look it over first as your play may be caused due to wear.
Your right play is radial, but as said must affect axial which I didn't check, also just found the adjustments in the technical manual. Sometimes I have a hard time with these factory Deere manuals. Your right shims for both, but described as adjusting end play and I'm assuming this also decreases radial play. And appears can be done from outside however bearing on transmission input shaft doesn't appear can be changed without shaft removal.
...wish I could be of help...I'll be doing this (Reverser/Pump/friction disc rebuild) in the spring!! So nice to have someone report back after rebuilding theirs. This is a semi-common issue with these machines and it's nice when folks return to their posts and educate the rest of us!! Don