Seems to be nut-rebuilding season for me. All of them on my gray-market CAT307SSR have 3 or 4 notches around the circumferences, for some magical wrench that's up to the task. I've not found a wrench that's even remotely capable, which has left me to make my own (I did buy a 'universal fit' type a few years back and bent it almost immediately, by...using it.) But I'm perhaps getting ahead of myself...first off, is it EVER the case that these will yield with leverage alone, or do they always require a lot of swearing and a sledge?If I have to make another wrench for this one, I'd like to plan for either a cheater-extension, or my traditional "beat it to death" thick steel target of some kind. But lever-assisted-removal has a LOT more appeal to me this time around.
Youll most likely have to make wrenches to fit each. Thats what we did/do
A few I was around used this pesky little detail.... Key (engineering) - Wikipedia en.wikipedia.org Case cylinders used that 'dutch' option quite a bit.
I had a couple like that and used a 48in rigid pipe wrench with a 7 foot 3.5in drill pipe cheater.
Today's word-of-the-day: "Keyseat." Try to use it in the ER when, for example your custom wrench tries to kill you for the 800th time while being beaten with a 16lb sledge...
Wrench to be suitable for whacking, or for extreme leverage? (Please say leverage will work...)
I use a 48 inch pipe wrench and a long pipe I also beat around the outside of the cylinder with a 5 lb hammer to loosen threads
Does this video give you any ideas.?
In not sure if this will work on the cylinders you have. If you take a ball peen hammer and hit the cylinder in lines working from the outside in all the way around, sometimes it takes a couple revolutions. It will usually loosen everything up. I had a cylinder i couldn't get apart, did all the things, super long cheater pipe, even heat, just bent and broke tools. Found this on the internet, did it and the gland popped right off with just the spanner wrench.
Thanks, Nige...glad to see you're still haunting the hallways here. I may well resort to peening as shown in that video, but it makes me a little uneasy, because I figure it ever-so-slightly expands the female threads (in my case, it's a threaded nut. If it were rust binding the gland, that'd be one thing, but what I've found on other nuts on this machine is a MILE of thread on each, no corrosion, and even what seems like remnants of grease or assembly lube. But if confronted with days of struggle as an alternative, I'm pretty sure I'll give up on that concern.
Thanks rangair - and your photo markup is the essence of that long video Nige linked. It's nice to have that in my back pocket. I'm still going to have to make a custom spanner, I reckon, so I will start with just leverage and see where that takes me.
We always use them at sluggin wrenches to start them then the final turque.
You can also tack weld your custom wrench to the nut until it breaks loose.