Two speed has never worked since I bought this machine used. I need to go to the other side of my property so wanted to get this fixed so it wouldn't take forever to get there. The 3-amp fuse blows for the two speed. I checked the joystick button and it is good. I then ohmed back the other way to the Two Speed Control and I get 140 Ohms. Not a dead short but I don't know what is correct. Where is this box mounted? Also, is the Pilot Gen that the two speed solenoid is mounted on the box up under my feet in the front or is it the one on the passenger side by the Case Drain Filter? Here is my simplified diagram I am using for troubleshooting the circuit.
Have never worked on one, maybe you have already checked where the wires come out the bottom of the joystick, maybe some wires are rubbed. Also by disconnecting the plug before the DR72 Two Speed Control, if the fuse that feeds the red wire to the Two Speed Control is grounding out and fuse blows again you will have idea where to look. Would have to see more of the schematic to suggest much more. Simon C
That's the whole schematic. I just cut and pasted the relevant stuff and eliminated everything else. So I proved the power wire from the fuse is fine. I figured out the 2-speed control is just this little black box hiding under the right joystick. Trackloaderparts calls it a "Latching relay". Everything ohms out okay on it except the green input from the button is 140 ohms like I said before and I proved it is the box, not the wiring. The yellow wire going to the 2 speed solenoid is reading 11.3 Ohms so almost a dead short but it's a coil so that might be normal. Basically I think all my wires are good so either the solenoid is bad (doubtful) or this 2-speed control (latching relay) is bad. This relay is a rip-off. A regular latching relay is around $25-50 but they want $203 for this one. I wish I knew if I could just put a normal car/truck one in?
The way I read that diagram, is your 2 speed joystick button is permently grounded on one side, when pushed(closed), your grounding out a relay in the DR72 control, which sends 12volts, supplied by your 3 amp fuse, out of the contol box, on the yellow wire, to the contol side of your 2 speed solenoid. Unplug the P33 connector, and check for 12v on the yellow wire no.3 when button is pushed. If it doesnt blow fuse, then your problem is further down the line towards the 2 speed solenoid. Either the yellow wire is rubbed through, or the solenoid is bad. Or if it does blow, its probably in the control box, since you said the button is good. Same as Simon was saying, just a bit more detail.
Thank you. I also noticed tonight that all the solenoids in the pilot gen have the same part number so I'm going to ohm the others and see what they read.
So had to take the joystick towers off to get the floor plates off which was fun by myself. Why don't they use nutplates so you don't have to hold the nut under the fender while loosening the bolt on the inside. Good thing I have long arms. I don't think these have ever been off before. It's NASTY dirty in here. I can't even begin to work on it until I get this clean, which brings me to my question. What is everyone doing for replacing the sound deadening foam? Mine just crumbles and is the source of a lot of the gunk on the pumps, solenoids and hoses. I imagine it's some specific foam that has some heat tolerance and doesn't act like a sponge soaking up hydraulic fluid leaks. How much louder would it be if I didn't replace it?
That is one dirty bottom of machine. Hope you can get it cleaned up. Can see some solenoids that are just covered in mud. Eventually those may cause problems. Good to clean all up and check things over while in there. Simon C
Dont know if its just the grainy picture, but it looks like green crusties on some of those solenoid wires
Dirty green wires and green splices.
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